The Omlet Blog Category Archives: Health

Everything You Need To Know About Avian Flu

This post has been reviewed and updated on Wednesday 2nd November 2022.

Boy tending to his housed hens

Autumn and winter can be amazing seasons to be a chicken keeper, but while you don’t have to worry about red mites and other heat loving pests to the same extent, the colder months pose other challenges. Besides making sure your chickens are warm and dry, the risk of avian flu increases in the winter months, and you will need to take precautions to make sure your hens stay fit and happy.

We have teamed up with the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (Defra) to give you a comprehensive guide of what you as a backyard chicken keeper can do to help minimise the spread of bird flu and keep chickens across the country healthy, including some FAQs.

What is Avian Flu?

Avian flu, or bird flu, is a type of influenza that spreads among birds. The virus is not specific to chickens and poultry, any bird can get infected, including wild birds such as birds of prey, geese, and different types of gulls. Avian influenza viruses are classified according to their ability to cause severe disease (pathogenicity) in birds as either highly pathogenic or low pathogenic. Highly pathogenic avian influenza viruses (HPAI) can cause severe disease in susceptible birds and low pathogenic avian influenza viruses (LPAI) generally cause mild disease or no disease at all.

Signs of avian flu in chickens

Chickens with avian flu may display various clinical signs. They may be less active than usual, will lose their appetite and show abnormal nervous signs like head tremors, lack of coordination, or circling. Affected birds will have a drop in egg production and show breathing difficulty with open beaks and runny eyes. Eventually their combs and wattles will become swollen with a blue discolouration. 

In most instances however, birds affected with high pathogenic avian influenza will just be found dead with no other prior indications of being ill. Poultry affected with low pathogenic strains of avian influenza may show signs of coughing, sneezing (snicking) and often get green diarrhoea. Unfortunately, many of these bird flu signs are not specific and can be associated with other poultry ailments. So if you have any doubts, please contact your vet for advice.

It can take several weeks for an avian flu outbreak to spread throughout a flock. Some infected birds may exhibit no clinical signs but are still potential virus carriers and can spread it to other birds. Others may get very ill and die very quickly.

Avian Influenza is a notifiable disease, which means that if suspected must be reported to the Animal and Plant Health Agency (APHA). You should always speak to your vet if you’re concerned about the health of your hens, but it’s particularly important if there are local outbreaks of bird flu.

What is the latest situation? 

So far this autumn/winter avian influenza has been confirmed in commercial poultry at premises in England. Avian influenza has also been found in captive birds in England.

Avian flu can spread by movement of infected birds, from bird-to-bird by contact with contaminated body fluids and faeces, or through contaminated objects and surfaces. Although an avian influenza outbreak can occur at any point in the year, the UK typically faces a seasonal increase in the risk of an avian flu as wild birds start to migrate. Infected migratory birds can then infect wild or kept birds, resulting in local transmission and contamination of the environment e.g., fecal and feather contamination of poultry ranges, and contamination of bedding stored outside. This is why the risk of avian influenza is not solely connected to the presence of infected migratory wild birds.

As of Monday 7th November 2022, the United Kingdom’s Chief Veterinary Officer has agreed to bring in new housing measures across the whole of England to minimise the risk of the avian influenza spreading amongst poultry and captive birds. 

The housing measures mean that it is a legal requirement for all bird keepers (whether they have pet birds, commercial flocks or just a few birds in a backyard flock) to keep their birds indoors, and to follow strict biosecurity measures to stop the spreading of the disease.

These new housing measures will regularly be reviewed.

Preventing outbreaks

Biosecurity is an essential defence against diseases such as avian influenza, and is key to limiting the spread of avian influenza in an outbreak.

All bird keepers should make sure they keep up to date on the latest avian influenza guidelines on the, and websites. There you will find details of biosecurity measures you should take as good practice for the health of your birds, as well as details of things you must do due to the Avian Influenza Prevention Zone (AIPZ) being in force across Great . Some examples include: 

Keep things clean

  • Wash your hands before and after tending to your birds.
  • Clean and disinfect your footwear after visiting the hens. Disinfectants get deactivated by mud and other organic matter, so it’s best to wash off any dirt before dipping your boots in a Defra approved disinfectant. Dilute disinfectant to the correct rate in a tub or bucket, at least ankle deep, and cover with a lid when not in use.
  • Alternatively, you can have specific chicken keeping footwear that you store in a watertight box next to the entrance to your chickens’ enclosure that you change into before going in to see the hens.
  • Limit the number of people and other pets who go to see the birds.
  • Clean and disinfect surfaces regularly. If you have a plastic chicken coop like the Eglu Cube, you can be confident you will easily be able to get to all corners of the coop in no time. Also make sure you clean and disinfect any equipment or accessories on a regular basis.  
  • Consider concreting areas around the entrances to bird accommodation or putting slabs down so it is easier to clean.
  • Store bedding and feed safely to minimise the risk of contamination, as well as pests.

Food, water, and wild birds

  • Do not feed wild birds in the vicinity of your chickens.
  • Use bird scarers to keep wild birds away.
  • Clean up any spilled chicken feed to avoid attracting wild birds or rats and mice. Feeders like chicken peck toys will keep the feed off the ground and minimise the risk of uneaten feed being left on the run or in the grass.
  • Keep your chickens’ water and feed undercover or on the run to prevent wild birds from accessing it.
  • Prevent your free-range hens from accessing ponds or other areas commonly visited by wild waterfowl.
  • If you keep other poultry, you should separate ducks and geese from your hens. These species don’t show any signs of disease, but can pass the virus on to chickens.

Prepare for winter and outbreaks in your area

Boy looking at a hen laying eggs in an Omlet Eglu Cube Chicken Coop


As of 7th November 2022, housing of all kept birds in England is now a legal requirement to keep them separate from wild birds. It’s important that you have somewhere to keep your birds safe and happy. It should be large enough that all chickens have enough space to carry out their daily activities, safe from predators and wild birds, as well as sheltered from wind and rain.

A coop connected to a large walk-in chicken run is a great solution, but you can also create a DIY temporary home for your flock by adapting any existing buildings you have, such as a shed or a garage. Whichever you choose, make sure to make it as safe and comfortable as possible for your chickens by:

  • Checking the roof for leaks
  • Clearing the roof and surrounding area of moss and vegetation, which can attract wild birds searching for insects.
  • Blocking up holes that could let small wild birds and rodents in or cover with 25mm mesh.
  • Ensuring there is good ventilation and natural light.
  • Ensuring guttering and drains are clear to prevent flooding.

Keep records

Whether you are selling or just giving to friends and family you must keep records of poultry and egg movements, including dates, quantities and where they were going. A veterinary inspector will ask to see these in the event of an outbreak.

Register your birds

A great way for hobby or pet chicken keepers to stay up to date with the latest avian influenza situation is to register their birds with the Animal and Plant Health Agency. It’s a legal requirement for those with 50 or more birds, but people with smaller flocks can fill out the voluntary registration form on

It’s worthwhile because:

  • You will receive text or email alerts if there is a disease outbreak in Great Britain.
  • You will receive text or email alerts if you fall within a disease protection or surveillance zone. These are 3km and 10km zones around the infected premises where additional biosecurity is needed.
  • By knowing what the disease situation is you can take action to protect your flock.
  • By taking action to protect your flock you will also help to protect GB’s poultry industry and the health and welfare of GB poultry.

Frequently asked questions

What is avian influenza?

Avian influenza is a virus that normally affects birds. There are two types of avian influenza virus, highly pathogenic (HPAI) and low pathogenic (LPAI). The highly pathogenic strain is more serious. Low pathogenic avian influenza can mutate into a highly pathogenic strain and therefore swift action must be taken as quickly as possible to stop the disease spreading.

What are the main signs of avian influenza? 

With the highly pathogenic strain of avian influenza birds are often just found suddenly dead. However common clinical signs include: 

  • Lethargy and weakness
  • Lack of appetite and not drinking
  • Drop in egg production
  • Green diarrhoea
  • Head tremoring
  • Abnormal posture, stance, and movement e.g., circling
  • Mouth breathing, gaping 
  • Sneezing, coughing and snicking
  • Blue combs and wattles 
  • Leg bruising

How does avian influenza spread?

The disease typically spreads through the movement of infected birds, from bird-to-bird direct contact and indirectly via contaminated fluids, faeces, vehicles, clothing, feed, or bedding. Wild birds are also a cause of many outbreaks in kept birds.

Two chickens relaxing on Omlet PoleTree Chicken Perch - closeup of chicken wing

I’m not a poultry farmer and only keep poultry as a hobby or as pets, why do I need to worry about avian influenza?

Between October 2022 and November 2022 there were 85 confirmed avian influenza (HPAI) H5N1 cases in England. Cases have also been confirmed in other parts of Great Britain.

If avian influenza is identified in birds kept as pets or as a hobby, it would still be necessary to put bird movement and trade restrictions in place. This is why it is vital that all poultry keepers, whether you keep hundreds of birds or just a couple of pet chickens, take action to improve biosecurity, to protect both the health of your birds and the livelihoods of poultry farmers in the UK. 

When should I start worrying about my chickens having avian influenza, and what should I do if one of them gets it?

If your birds look unwell it’s important to contact your vet. Avian influenza (bird flu) is a notifiable animal disease. If you or your vet suspect any type of avian influenza in poultry or captive birds, you or your vet must report it to the Animal and Plant Health Agency immediately. Failure to do so is an offence. 

You can call the Defra Services helpline on 03000 200 301 (England) or 0300 303 8268 (Wales). If you live in Scotland, contact your local field services office

What does biosecurity mean? 

Biosecurity refers to things we do to prevent the introduction and/or spread of harmful organisms (e.g., viruses and bacteria) to animals, people, and plants, to minimise the risk of transmission of infectious disease.  Some examples of good biosecurity include washing and disinfecting clothing and footwear before entering your birds’ enclosures and keeping wild bird contamination out.

What is the difference between an Avian Influenza Prevention Zone (AIPZ) and housing measures?

In an AIPZ, additional biosecurity measures are required by law to help protect your birds from avian influenza, and this may require you to house your birds, depending on the risk level at the time. The Government communicate these housing measures to poultry and captive bird keepers if or when they come into force.

Housing measures require you to by law that keep your birds permanently indoors, unless this is completely impracticable (for example if you keep large numbers of ducks or geese, where it may be a welfare issue to keep them inside due to their inability to exhibit natural behaviours). In these instances, alternative measures must be taken. Ducks and geese should be kept in fully netted areas or temporary netted structures, where practical. All feeding and watering should take place under cover.

If housing measures are not in force, an AIPZ will require free-ranging birds to be kept in a fenced area to minimise their contact with wild birds. Other biosecurity measures include keeping your birds’ food and water undercover, cleaning up evidence of wild birds in your birds’ fenced area (for example feathers and faeces), putting netting over ponds and cleansing and disinfecting footwear before and after tending to your birds. However, high standards of biosecurity should be maintained as good practice for the health of your birds even when an AIPZ is not in place. 

Full details of the requirements all bird keepers must follow under the AIPZ currently in force across England are available together with biosecurity guidance and information on the latest avian influenza situation are available at:

If housing measures are in force, do I need to keep my hens shut in at all times?  

If housing measures are in place then yes, birds must be always kept undercover. This is to protect them from disease. 

What type of housing is suitable to house my birds in?

When poultry are housed, they must be completely undercover. You can buy purpose-built poultry houses, or you can make use of existing buildings, such as barns, farm sheds, outbuildings, garages, and garden sheds and adapt these for your birds. Or build a lean-to on the side of an existing structure.

If your housing is too small to permanently house your birds, you could extend it by creating a covered run from tarpaulin or a gazebo and use 25 mm mesh for the sides to prevent small wild birds from getting in. Straw bales can also be used to make a temporary poultry house with a tarpaulin roof. 

It is important that your birds have access to natural light and that there is good ventilation. Any openings must be netted with 25mm net to prevent wild birds from gaining access.

If you keep ducks and geese, they must be kept separate from other poultry species as waterfowl often don’t show any signs of disease but can pass the virus on to chickens.

What actions can I take now to protect my birds from avian influenza? 

Maintain your birds’ housing by:

  • Checking the roof for leaks 
  • Clearing the roof and surrounding area of moss and vegetation, which can attract wild birds searching for insects.
  • Blocking up holes, which could let small wild birds and rodents in, or cover them with 25 mm mesh.
  • Ensuring there is good ventilation.
  • Ensuring guttering and drains are clear to prevent flooding.


  • Clean and disinfect (using a government approved disinfectant) footwear and equipment before and after tending to your birds, as well as all hard surfaces.
  • If you sell any of your chickens or their eggs, keep records of movements.
  • Store bedding inside to reduce the risk of contamination.
  • Make your premises unattractive to wild birds. Use bird scarers, foils, or streamers.
  • Remove any spilled feed regularly and control rats and mice. 
  • Place your birds’ food and water in fully enclosed areas that are protected from wild birds.
  • Put fencing around outdoor areas where birds are allowed and limit their access to ponds or areas visited by wild waterfowl.
  • Where possible, avoid keeping ducks and geese with other poultry species.

Do I need to change water/food more than usual if cases of avian influenza are confirmed in the UK?

Food and water should be refreshed/changed regularly for the health and welfare of your birds. To prevent infection with avian flu, the most important thing is that your birds’ food and water cannot be accessed by wild birds. Store food and water undercover away from wild birds. If housing measures are brought in, then your bird’s food and water must be stored indoors. It’s important to clear up spilled feed regularly to avoid attracting mice and rats, as they could spread the avian influenza virus on their feet. 

How can I make sure my chickens aren’t in distress when they are confined and can no longer roam free?

If, due to a further increase to the risk avian influenza spread, government bring in mandatory housing measures, warning will be given in order for you to start getting your birds used to being inside before the rule is mandatory. 

Once housing measures are in force, ensuring fresh water and appropriate amounts of feed are available and keeping their bedding clean are the main priorities. Chickens spend most of their time awake foraging (i.e. pecking and scratching), therefore, it’s important to provide things that encourage that behaviour. But scatter feeding can encourage vermin, so cat litter trays can be used to scatter food in, or they can be placed under feeders to catch the mess. Other ideas to enrich your birds’ environment include:

  • Feeding whole oats, wheat, corn, alfalfa, maize, barley, peas, and carrots, but make dietary changes gradually.
  • Mashing feed to increase eating time.
  • Adding grit to litter, so birds can scratch and carry out natural foraging behaviours.
  • Add different levels, as chickens like to go up high. Try stacking straw bales or adding items of ‘furniture’, such as ladders and swings that they can perch on. Perches can also help avoid overcrowding. 
  • Hang items to peck at, such as pecking blocks.
  • Provide a dust bath.
  • Chickens may also enjoy parrot puzzle feeders or even dog puzzle feeders! 
  • Mirrors can add interest, and moving them around regularly adds more interest.
  • Keep surfaces soft, such as wood shavings or sand. 
  • If you keep ducks or geese, fill troughs or old bathtubs with water to allow preening. 
  • Play classical music or the radio! 

It’s a good idea to vary enrichment regularly, as it otherwise loses its novelty. Be careful about adding new items to the chickens’ enclosure that could be contaminated with the virus, such as leaves or branches from the garden. Contact your vet if you have concerns about the health and welfare of your birds.  

How do I get the correct updates regarding guidelines and regulations?

All information you require about avian flu can be found on, and, including information about the relevant legislation

How can I keep up to date with the latest avian influenza situation?, and have all the latest information regarding the avian influenza situation in Great Britain. 

It is also advisable to register your birds with the Animal and Plant Health Agency (APHA). This is a legal requirement for people who keep 50 or more birds, but if you keep less than 50 birds it’s still worthwhile as:

  • You will receive text or email alerts if there is a disease outbreak in Great Britain (GB). 
  • You will receive text or email alerts if you fall within a disease Protection or Surveillance Zone. These are 3 km and 10 km zones around the infected premises where additional biosecurity is required. 
  • By knowing what the disease situation is, you can take action to protect your birds.
  • By taking action to protect your birds, you will also help to protect GB’s poultry industry and the health and welfare of GB poultry. 

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This entry was posted in Chickens

How to help your chickens through a moult 

Chicken keeper tending to chickens with Omlet's chicken fencing and Eglu Cube chicken coop

Each year your chickens will experience “moulting”, which is the process of shedding their old feathers and donning new feather skirts. Most hens will slow down their egg production during this time to redirect their energy to the arduous task of growing new feathers. We’ll show you how to help your chickens through a moult, and what to expect throughout the process. 

When do chickens moult? 

Chickens begin moulting early on in life. In fact, chicks moult frequently during their first few months of life as they shed their baby fluff in favour of their adult feathers. Chicks will moult a total of 4 times: 

  • First moult within the first 1-6 weeks of age
  • Second molt around 7-9 weeks of age
  • Third molt around 12-13 weeks of age 
  • Fourth and final moult around 20-22 weeks of age

By the end of this fourth moult, your chicks’ tail feathers will begin to come in – making cockerels easier to spot. 

Once they reach adulthood, all chickens will follow a natural annual moulting cycle that occurs toward the end of summer or the beginning of autumn. The need to grow new feathers will be evident – your hens’ feathers will appear dull or bleached out shortly before they moult. Occasionally, chickens can go through a moulting cycle outside of this timeframe as a response to stress.

How do you know if your chicken is moulting? 

While chickens can lose random feathers any time of year due to rough play or preening, minor feather loss is not considered moulting. Molting is accompanied by obvious signs like: 

  • Patches of missing feathers (some may be large) 
  • A dishevelled appearance 
  • Dull combs and wattles 
  • Irritability
  • A sudden drop in egg production 
  • Increased appetite 

The moulting process usually begins with the feathers at the chicken’s head, moving toward the breast and legs, and finally to the tail. By the time the tail is bare, the head feathers will have begun to regrow. 

If a chicken is losing feathers and doesn’t grow new ones, you’ll want to do a quick hen health check, as sometimes mites or illness can be to blame for unexplained feather loss.  If you suspect an issue other than a seasonal moult, be sure to contact your veterinarian. 

What to give chickens to help with moulting

Moulting is not an illness, so while it may not require treatment, your hens will appreciate some extra nutrition during this time. Their taste for protein will increase in response to the extra energy needed to grow new feathers – and they’ll need lots of it. 

To add extra protein to the chickens’ diets, give them a feed that is at least 18% protein. If you have a chicken tractor, move your flock to a spot with the most insects. Or, you can use chicken fencing to keep your hens in areas that are dense with bugs for a fresh protein source. 

You can also add some apple cider vinegar to your hens’ water, and offer fresh herbs like oregano to give their immune systems a boost. Chicken supplements are an easy way to add nutrients to your flock’s feed, and allowing them to free range as much as possible will help them peck out what their bodies need the most. 

What to do when your chickens are moulting

Moulting varies between each hen, but you can expect a full moult to take anywhere from 4-16 weeks to be completed. Try to avoid handling your chickens during this time, and resist covering their bald patches with chicken jackets or clothing. Your hens will be tender and itchy while they’re growing new feathers, so handling them or covering their skin will add unnecessary irritation. 

Not all hens will cease egg production for the entire duration of a moult, but it’s normal if they do. It’s normal to expect your hens to stop producing eggs for several weeks while they’re moulting. Flocks will moult together on the same schedule, so be prepared to be short on eggs for a while. Unwashed eggs will keep in the refrigerator for several weeks, so start saving eggs toward the end of summer to head off a temporary egg shortage. 

Having an easy-to-clean chicken coop and chicken run are both helpful during a moult – your hens will shed feathers both day and night, leaving feathers everywhere. Dump or rake out shed feathers routinely to keep your flock’s area presentable and to give your hens plenty of dust to bathe in, which will aid in the moulting process. 

Keep your flock’s feeders and waterers topped off during their moult, and check on their progress daily. Most hens will go through their cycle without incident or need for human intervention, but keep an eye out for: 

  • Excessive lethargy from hens 
  • Bleeding or scabbed over patches 
  • Difficulty regrowing feathers, or patches of missing feathers even after new ones have grown in 

Before you know it, your flock will have ditched their dull, dingy feathers and will emerge dressed in their new, polished plumage just in time for winter. 

Molting with Omlet 

The annual moulting cycle doesn’t have to be a chore for you and your chickens. Whether you house your hens in our Eglu Cube chicken coop and Walk In chicken run, or one of our chicken tractors, our expertly designed products make it easy for you to help your hens through a moult so that they can get back to feeling, and looking, their best.

Chicken keeper watching his chickens in their Omlet Eglu Cube Chicken Coop

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This entry was posted in Chickens

6 mistakes to avoid when raising chicks

Mother hen with three chicks

Chickens pretty much take care of themselves from an early age. However, there are certain things you need to avoid if you want your baby chickens to get the very best start in life.

In this article, we present six easily preventable pitfalls.

1. Not having the brooder ready before the chicks arrive

You need to sort out the chicks’ housing – known as a brooder – before the birds arrive. Otherwise, there will be nowhere to put them, and that would be disastrous.

You can buy brooder boxes made specifically to keep chicks in, or you can make a DIY brooder using a cardboard box or plastic bin with holes in the side. Only choose the DIY avenue if you’re 100% confident you know what you’re doing.

The important thing is to keep the birds in a warm and well-ventilated space, but protected from drafts. As a rule of thumb, allow two square feet per chick – this is more than enough space for fluffy newcomers, but remember you will also need to make sure they have enough room when they get bigger – which they will do very quickly!

A chicken wire covering for the top of the brooder is advisable. Chicks can easily ‘fly the nest’ if the sides of the brooder are less than 45cm high. Older chicks need roosting poles for perching when they sleep, and will appreciate the inclusion of these in the brooder.

2. Not getting the temperature right

Too much or too little heat can kill chicks, so this is another life-or-death issue. The chicks need to be kept in a temperature of 35 °C (95 °F) in their first week. The heat should then be reduced slightly every five days or so until you’ve reached room temperature. 

The source of heat is an important detail too. A heater designed explicitly for coops and aviaries is the best option, or a red heat bulb. You should not use a white heat bulb, as these produce glare that keeps chicks awake at night. This will make them irritable, as a result of which they may start pecking each other. Standard light bulbs are not suitable either.

Even the correct type of heater or bulb will need some adjusting in terms of where it hangs, and how high it is from the ground. Watch how the chicks behave in relation to the heat source. If they crowd together directly under the bulb or in front of the heater, it means they’re too cold. Lower the heat source or add an additional one, depending on the situation.

If the chicks cluster away from the heat source, they’re probably too hot. In this case, the heater or bulb will need to be moved further away, or its temperature reduced slightly. The chicks’ behaviour may change as they grow larger and the space becomes more crowded, so watch them carefully each day.

3. Using the wrong type of bedding

With chicks, it’s not a case of “any old bedding will do”. Use wood shavings or other non-toxic, absorbent material recommended for baby chickens. Avoid newspaper or shredded magazines, and don’t use aromatic, oily woods such as cedar. A 2.5cm layer of this bedding will be enough. If you omit the bedding, the chicks are in danger of slipping and sliding on the surface, which can lead to an injury called “splayed leg”, which is a life-threatening condition. The bedding should be changed at least once a week to prevent sticky droppings from accumulating.

4. Getting the wrong type of feed

Starter feed – in the form of either ‘crumble’ or ‘mash’ – is the essential basis of a chick’s diet. If your chicks have been vaccinated against coccidiosis, you will need to buy an unmedicated feed. The starter feed will double as a ‘grower’ feed, intended for chicks for up to 16 weeks. Some varieties, however, are for the first four weeks only, after which you can switch to a ‘grower’ feed.

Chicks will also enjoy a bit of fresh food as a treat, either vegetables or worms and bugs. These should never replace the starter feed mix, however. Chicks only eat as much as they need, and there’s no danger of them over-eating. So all you have to do is make sure the feeders are topped up at all times.

Like adult birds, chicks require grit to grind up their food. It needs to be sand grain-sized rather than the small pebbles and shell fragments that grown birds require.

The chicks will need food and water dispensers. Buy custom-made ones rather than improvising with dishes and trays: these inevitably end up fouled and/or spilt. Very young chicks will need to have their water changed at least twice a day, as they very quickly dirty it.

5. Forgetting to perform daily health checks

A chick health check is a simple case of looking at the young birds and making sure they look as lively and alert as usual. A chick that sits alone and looks lethargic or fluffed up when the others are active may be unwell. An ill chick will deteriorate very quickly and die.

The most frequent health issue encountered in young chicks is ‘pasting up’. This is when their droppings become encrusted on their bodies, preventing them from pooping. An affected bird can be cured by wetting the pasted-up area with warm water and wiping it clean. You may occasionally have to use tweezers to remove a plug of poo from the vent. The chick will need holding securely during this rather delicate and undignified procedure. If left blocked, a pasted-up chick could quickly die.

Note: if there is a thin dark strand hanging from a chick’s rear end, this is NOT pasting up. It’s the dried up umbilical cord that attaches the bird to its yolk inside the egg. It will fall off in a few days.

6. Moving chicks outdoors too quickly

Chicks can spend up to three hours a day outdoors once they’ve reached two weeks, as long as there is someone to supervise them. A large wire cage or portable run will do the job. The birds should only be placed outside if it’s at least 18 °C (65 °F), dry and not too windy. They will need food, water and shade.

Note: If you take the chicks outdoors before two weeks old, or if you leave them for more than three hours, they may catch a chill or sunstroke (depending on the prevailing weather). These shocks to the system can kill a small bird.

By 12 weeks, the young hens are old enough to move into an Eglu chicken coop and run. They will still be too small to negotiate the roosting bars, so these should be removed until the chicks are big enough to perch and walk across them safely. If you have an Eglu Cube Chicken Coop, the chicks may have to be lifted in and out of the roosting and laying area, as they often struggle with the ladder. This can be converted into a ramp during these early weeks, to make things easier for the hens.

The roosting area of the Eglu – or any other walk-in coop and run set up – should have lots of chicken bedding to ensure the hens stay warm at night. The bedding should also be replaced at least twice a week.

Chicks soon pick up the dos and don’ts of life from your other birds. A lot of their behaviour, remember, is based on instinct, so as long as you give them the right environment, nature will take care of the rest.

Chicks under heat lamp

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This entry was posted in Chickens

10 Things to Always Have in Stock When You Have Chickens!

Whether you’re a beginner or experienced chicken keeper, we have put together a list of 10 essential products you should consider having to hand if you decide to keep chickens in your garden.

Bantams strolling out of the Omlet Eglu Go Chicken Coop door

Certain accessories and equipment are essential to keep your chickens safe and healthy. 

The products to have on your shelves

Diatomaceous earth: a must!

Diatomaceous earth is a natural and completely organic product which can be sprinkled in the chicken house to prevent the proliferation of red mites. You can also treat your chickens by mixing it with their feed, or dusting them with the powder and incorporating it into their dust bath.

A coop disinfectant

The shelter, equipment and accessories of your chickens must be cleaned regularly to keep their home hygienic and healthy. Use a pet safe disinfectant, like Battles.

Cider vinegar has many benefits

A little cider vinegar in your chickens’ water will help to improve their respiratory system, boost their immune system and maintain a healthy digestive system. Warning: do not use cider vinegar in metal drinkers. This breaks down the metal and can create a toxic chemical reaction for your chickens. Want to clean your eggs but water is not enough? Use the cider vinegar by dipping your eggs in it for 10 seconds. They will be impeccable! You can even add cider vinegar to the water before washing your chickens. Finally, clean your drinkers and equipment with apple cider vinegar to remove traces of limestone. Vinegar is a whitener and a very good disinfectant.


Having grit on your shelf is essential. Your chickens don’t have teeth, so grit helps your chickens digest the grains and other foods they eat more easily. The ingestion of grit is a physiological need essential for the good health of your flock.

Food supplements

A chicken eats an average of 120g of food per day. Food supplements can be great for maintaining your chickens’ health and egg production, and providing them with their daily dose of vitamins. For example, chickens need calcium and phosphorus to produce quality eggs which can be supplemented with Equimins Egg Shell Improver. This is ideal for ex battery chickens. Garlic powder is recognised for its many virtues. Added to the daily feed of your chickens, it will improve their immune system, deworm and eliminate red lice and mites. Did you know that herbs are great for their immune system and that it protects your chickens from infections and intestinal parasites? A herb treat mix will support their health and happiness!

Vaseline/Petroleum jelly

If your chicken loves going out for a run in winter. It is advisable to coat the comb with petroleum jelly/Vaseline to prevent frostbite.

Scaly leg spray

To prevent unwanted parasite invasions on your chickens and particularly leg scabies, do not hesitate to invest in a scaly leg spray. This form of mange is caused by a mite and can kill your hen. As soon as symptoms appear, growths, yellowish legs, deformation or enlargement of the leg, treat the affected areas immediately.

Gentian Violet Spray

It is necessary to have a small first aid kit on your shelf in case of small injuries. An antiseptic spray is very effective against small abrasions or wounds from feather pecking.

Egg boxes

Having chickens is great, having eggs is even better! Keep them safe after collecting them with egg boxes, just like in the supermarket, or stylish Skelters where you can display them proudly in your kitchen, and keep them in date order.

Bumpa bits

Pecking in chickens is quite common. They can sting with their beaks on the heads of other hens, pluck the feathers, or simply sting the other hen until they bleed. It is a habitual and frequent behaviour, it can be caused for the sake of hierarchy or for any other reason: heat, food… In the event of a big crisis in your flock, you can opt for an astonishing solution: bumpa bits. Installed on the beak of your bird, the clip will prevent your hen from pecking and harming the other birds. The end of the spout does not close completely and allows your hen to drink and eat safely.

If you are worried about running out of a product or are unsure of what to buy, we have specially collated packs with all the essential products for the good health of your chickens:

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