When choosing a dog – especially if it’s your first one – the key is to find a breed that complements your lifestyle. Like us, some dogs are happy to spend most of their time relaxing indoors, while others want to run half marathons every day.
So, think about your lifestyle, and then find the dog to match. Here are some helpful lifestyle and dog breed matches to help you narrow down the field.
Dogs for Sofa Lovers
Being an evening couch potato doesn’t necessarily mean you’re lazy – it probably means you’ve had a busy day at work, and need some downtime. Plenty of dog breeds fit this ‘couch canine’ lifestyle, including:
Dachshund – these loveable ‘Sausage Dogs’ can actually damage their spines if they’re forced to take too much exercise. They will still need a morning walk, though!
Greyhound – this one surprises people who don’t know the breed well. “Greyhounds?”, they say, “Surely all they want to do is chase hares at breakneck speed all day?” Well, yes, they can run fast; but their preferred lifestyle is actually long, lazy days, with a couple of short runs in the park.
French Bulldog – they’ll be hyperactive for 20 minutes on a walk, and then they’ll be worn out. Lacking endurance, this makes them perfect for anyone who lacks time for long walks every day.
The popular lapdog breeds fall into this category too, including Chihuahua, Pug, King Charles Spaniel, Pekingese, Shih Tzu and Yorkie.
Dogs for Busy Outdoor Lifestyles
If you do lots of walking or running, there are plenty of high-endurance dog breeds that will just love keeping up with you every step of the way.
Dalmatian – these loveable hounds will find 101 reasons to run and play all day. Whatever you’re doing outdoors, they’ll be with you every step of the way.
Border Collie – possibly the dogs with the busiest work ethic, they will happily be hyperactive from dawn to dusk. If there’s no work on offer, they’ll find it for themselves. That ball game isn’t just a game, it’s a job, and the Border Collie will make sure it’s done properly – all day long, if needs be!
Husky – a breed that was developed to pull heavy sledges for hundreds of kilometres is not going to be content with anything but a busy lifestyle. These dogs need lots of exercise – as many miles a day as you can give them. Not for the faint-hearted!
Many other larger breeds suit active lifestyles, including German Shepherd, Pointer, Boxer and Labrador Retriever. Some smaller dogs pack an energy punch, too, and the Boston Terrier and Jack Russell, for example, will be able to keep up with you no matter how long the journey home is.
Child’s Play – Best Dogs for Kids
Although children should not be given full responsibility for a pet dog, there are plenty of breeds that are very child friendly.
Labrador retriever and Golden retriever – these are probably the perfect family dogs. Retrievers are gentle and loving, and treat children with a mixture of respect and parental care. They’re incredibly soft and good natured.
Irish (or Red) Setter – this breed seems to have been developed to play with children! Playful, but gentle, children often form very tight bonds with this wonderfully handsome dog.
Old English Sheepdog – when they’re not selling paint, these dogs – so often called ‘Dulux Dog’ that the name has become semi-official amongst dog owners – love nothing better than chilling with the kids. They’re gentle giants.
There are plenty more dogs in this category. The Newfoundland, for example, is even more giant than the Old English, and just as gentle. Boxers and Beagles are good with the kids too – as long as they’re well trained from an early age.
Dogs for People Allergic to Dogs!
Don’t despair! Your pet-induced sneezing and asthma doesn’t mean you can never be a dog owner. The thing you’re allergic to is a protein found on animals’ skin, and/or shed hairs. Although no breed is officially hypoallergenic, the commonest ones in families where allergies are a problem are:
Poodle (both full size and Toy)
Schnauzer
Basenji
Bichon Frise
Samojed
Shih Tzu
This is not a precise science, and some people are definitely more “allergic” than others. Many people who sneeze and wheeze at most dogs find that they are okay with Yorkies and Westies, even though these have longer hair than the average hound. At the same time, the short-haired Boxer can cause strong allergic reactions in many sufferers.
The key here is to spend some time with the breed before making the decision to bring one home.
The takeaway message is clear – there are many dog breeds out there, with many different personalities and requirements. Matching those traits to your own lifestyle and circumstances is the sure path to finding the perfect pet.
While it’s true that most dogs can swim, not all of them actually enjoy it. Some dogs’ idea of swimming involves paddling for dry land as quickly as possible, while some take to the water as if they were otters in a previous life.
With some breeds, the clue is in the name. The Irish Water Spaniel and the Portuguese Water Dog, for example, love taking the plunge, as do Poodles, Newfoundlands, Setters, Retrievers and many more. Some dogs, however, are simply not built for swimming. Dachshunds, with their short legs, and Pugs and English Bulldogs, with their short necks and poor breathing, struggle in water.
When confronted with lakes and rivers on a walk, the dog will decide for itself whether or not it fancies a quick dip. In a garden pool, however, you need to be aware of the various safety and hygiene issues, because at some point your pet is bound to take to the water.
Mastering the Doggy Paddle
If the pool is a public one, dogs will simply not be allowed, so safety issues don’t arise. Pools in people’s gardens, however, become just as much a part of the dog’s playground as the humans’. Rule number one for pool owners – or for owners who visit friends with dog-friendly pools – is to make sure your dog is safe in the water.
A weak swimmer will tire very quickly and can soon get into trouble if unsupervised. Training your dog to swim to safety is therefore very important. Using your usual “Come!” command will usually work well. For smaller dogs, or if the pool is high-sided, a ramp should be attached to the side to allow the dog to clamber out. If the pool has steps, make sure the dog knows where they are. If the pool is large, make your dog jump in from different points, and guide them to the exit each time, to make sure they have a clear mental map of how to get out.
Another popular option is a dog life-jacket, which will allow your pet to swim while preventing it from sinking fast if things go wrong. If you never leave the dog unsupervised, these shouldn’t really be necessary; but if you are having a busy afternoon, your eye might not always be on your pet, so a dog flotation vest is great for ensuring peace of mind.
Some dogs really take to floats and inflatables (claw-proof ones made specifically for dogs, ideally). They can use them to take a break from paddling, or can simply lie on them like a human on a sun lounger.
If a dog gets itself into serious difficulties and needs rescuing, knowing how to administer CPR (Cardiopulmonary resuscitation) can save the pet’s life. There are tutorials available for this online, or you could ask your vet for advice.
Don’t Drink the Water
Dogs can quickly overheat if the sun is beating down, and they may naturally take to water to cool down. Swimming is hot business, though, and it’s far better for your pet to cool down in the shade with some fresh water to drink.
And that’s another hazard – a hot, thirsty dog in a pool will do what come naturally and drink some of the pool water. If they lap up too much of the chlorinated water, they may become sick. Again, providing some fresh water somewhere cool and shaded will prevent them drinking from the pool.
Just like a human, a dog who has spent time in the pool will need rinsing off, to remove the potentially irritating chlorine and other chemicals from its fur, eyes and skin.
Your Dog Loves the Pool, But Does the Pool Love Your Dog?
There are three major issues for a swimming pool used by dogs: bacteria, hair, and wear & tear.
The bacteria is associated with poo and wee. The dog doesn’t need to actually relieve itself in the pool for these contaminants to be released into the water. However, as long as your pool is properly maintained and chemically treated, the bacteria will be killed, so this should not be an issue.
The hair factor is more of a problem. Dog hair will accumulate in the pool filter surprisingly quickly if your pet sheds a lot. A good brushing before swimming will help, but you will still need to clean the filter and other pool machinery more often than you would with human-only swimmers.
Wear and tear is an issue with doggy paddlers because of their claws. They will scrabble at the sides of a pool, and at the bottom of a shallow area. A pool lined with plaster, pebbles or tile will withstand the clawing, while plastic or vinyl-lined pool may spring a leak. You should also bear in mind that dog claws and children swimming in the same pool may be asking for trouble, too.
Follow these simple guidelines and precautions, and pools can be enjoyed by dogs and owners alike. But don’t force the issue – some dogs love the wet stuff, while others prefer to keep their feet on dry land.
Some pets are pretty obvious with the way they show love and affection. A dog might be the best example of this; with a wagging tail, smiling face and licking tongue, dog owners rarely have to guess if their dog is excited to see them when they get back from work in the evening.
With rabbits it’s a bit more complicated. First of all, it often requires a bit more work to get your pet rabbit to trust you. As prey animals, they are naturally shy and cautious, and it may take a while before they warm up to new people. However, once they know you and trust you, they are extremely affectionate animals that love spending time with their owners. They might just have slightly different ways of showing it!
If your rabbits do all or some of the following things, you can be sure that they feel genuine affection for you.
They stop being nervous
When the rabbit is new to you, it’s normal that they seem skittish or jumpy. This is to be expected, and it may take a while before the rabbit realises that they are safe in their new home. The first signs that your rabbit is warming up to you is that they stop some obvious nervous behaviours. Maybe they no longer jump back when you reach your hand towards them with some treats, stop running into the hutch whenever you approach or start to relax their body language. These may seem like small things, but they are steps towards your bunny feeling true love for you.
They groom you
When two rabbits live together, they lick, nibble and groom each other as a way of showing love and affection. If your rabbit likes you, he or she might start to lick you or your clothing, nudge your arm or nibble on your finger. This is a sign that you are seen as part of the rabbit’s family, and that they care about your health and cleanliness.
They want to be stroked
If you rabbit comes up to you and starts pushing their head against your hand or put their head on your arm it’s a sign that they love you and want to spend time with you. It means your rabbit trusts you know what you’re doing and won’t hurt them, and is a true signal that they love being around you.
They come and lay next to you
A rabbit that approaches you while you’re spending time with them in their run and lays down next to you is showing extreme trust, especially if they’ve got their legs sprawled out under them. This is a very vulnerable position to be in, so it’s clear that your rabbit trusts that you will look after them.
They run around your feet
The closest you will probably get to a dog jumping up to greet you when you get through the door is your rabbit running in circles around your feet, sometimes doing figures of eight between your legs. You might have seen this behaviour when you approach your rabbits with food or yummy treats, but many will also do it just out of excitement of seeing their favourite human.
They purr
Although it’s actually not purring in the same way as cats purr, but a grinding of the teeth that makes a soft humming sound and causes the rabbit’s head to vibrate slightly, it’s a clear sign that your rabbit is content. Normally this occurs when you’re stroking or grooming your rabbit, a time when your pet doesn’t have to worry about anything.
They do a binky
A binky can be described as a jump up in the air with the legs stretched out. It’s an expression of excitement and exhilaration, and sometimes you will see your rabbit doing this in your company. We dare you not to smile when you see a binky!
2020 has certainly been an unusual year for most of us so far. Here at Omlet we’ve been working from home since the end of March, and many of us have spent more time than normal with our chickens, dogs, cats and other pets. To get an idea of how pet ownership has affected lockdown, we decided to ask our followers how their pets had helped them cope with these strange times. Here is a summary of the results:
88% of people agreed that staying at home has been easier with a pet! It’s no news that pets are great emotional support during difficult times, and apart from that they keep you busy. If you keep chickens you have to go out in the garden a few times a day to refill food and water or check on your girls, and if you have a dog they must be walked. Having routines is a great way of keeping structure when things are uncertain, and will benefit both physical and mental health, so it’s no wonder that 88% of people are thankful for having a pet throughout lockdown!
Nearly 2 out of 3 people thought that their pets had enjoyed seeing more of their owners, which shows how little they actually require from us. It doesn’t have to be long hikes or elaborate playtime setups, just having you around is enough for most pets. Only 0.5% said that their pets seemed annoyed or tired by the additional human interaction – can we guess that these people own independent cats by any chance?
1 in 4 people said they spent more time teaching their pets tricks during lockdown.
Many of us have been working from home, and tried to master all the challenges that come with setting up a home office. For people with pets this challenge might have been even bigger. Whether by squeaking guinea pigs, clucking hens or barking dogs, 75% of people said that they had been easily distracted from work by their furry or feathery friend. 50% had also had a video called interrupted by their pet.
76% of everyone who took the survey said they would like to work from home more often in the future so they can spend more time with their pets. As we have already established, our pets have also seemed happy to have us at home more, so it’s certainly a setup that would benefit both pets and owners.
Not as many people would like to bring their pets into work with them; only a third said they’d like to let their pet meet their colleagues. We’re guessing this might have to do partly with what animals people have got, and how convenient it would be to take them to work. Sure, we’ve heard of office dogs, but is an office chicken taking things a bit too far?
Out of the people who would like to take their pet to work with them in the future, nearly two thirds believed that their boss would not allow it. If you reckon your boss would say no, let them know that studies done with office dogs show that having a four legged friend running between the desks proved to boost morale, increase job satisfaction and reduce stress within companies and organisations.
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Whether it’s homemade treats, new toys or a long game of fetch that makes you late for work, there are many ways to show your dog how much you love them. But are you spoiling them? Probably. Does it matter? Probably not.
These are 20 tell-tale signs that suggest you’re spoiling your furry friend.
1.
There’s nothing in the snack cupboard except dog treats. That’s good, as it means you’re not feeding all the treats at once; but it’s not so good if you were looking for a crafty snack of your own…
2.
You’ve gone to the pet shop with your dog, and you’re letting them ‘choose’ the toys and chews they want. So far, you have a very full basket!
3.
You buy a bigger, better sprinkler for the garden just because your dog had such fun with the old one. The lawn doesn’t actually need the extra water at the moment, but your dog does!
4.
You buy a new squeaky toy to play tug-of-war with, even though the old ones are still in good shape. After all, this is the first time your pet has had a toy shaped like a lobster…
5.
You realise you’re looking forward to your dog’s day at the Puppy Spa next week as much as you’re looking forward to your romantic stay in a spa hotel the following weekend.
6.
Your bags of dog treats have healthier ingredients than your own treats – all organic, sustainably sourced, and packed with vitamins and minerals.
7.
Your afternoon dedicated to DIY has disappeared, dedicated instead to giving belly rubs, playing with sticks and balls, and going for a long, leisurely walk in the park to say hello to the ducks.
8.
The freezer has lots of yummy frozen doggy treats, but no ice creams or lollies for you and the kids.
9.
You’ve spent two hours in the kitchen baking. The result? Several trays of dog biscuits for your pet and all his doggy friends in the neighbourhood.
10.
You’re sitting on the not-very-comfy chair, because your dog is curled up on the comfier one.
11.
You’re not particularly enjoying the show on TV, but you keep it on because it’s your dog’s favourite.
12.
You buy toys and treats for your dog’s birthday or for their Christmas stocking – and hide them away on a high shelf to keep them secret until the big day.
13.
You phone home on a business trip, and your first question is “How’s the dog?”
14.
You’re an expert in dog massage and essential oils for dogs, but don’t know much about massage and essential oils for humans.
15.
You give your dog its dinner slightly early so that you can both sit down and watch the new Scooby Doo or Lassie film together later.
16.
Your dog’s annual hairdresser bill is bigger than yours.
17.
You have a list of all the local dog-friendly restaurants in your neighbourhood, and compile one for all the places you visit with your pet.
18.
Your dog’s ‘room’ under the stairs was planned and decorated with more care than your living room.
19.
You decide not to offload your bad day on the dog, because you don’t want them to worry.
20.
You’ve taken a trip to the seaside with your dog yet again. You hadn’t intended coming back so soon, but the dog insisted…
As long as it doesn’t involve overeating, over-fussing or over-exercising, there are all kinds of ways to spoil your dog. And the great thing is, the dog won’t feel spoilt at all, just loved.
Budgies need toys, so much so that they should be an essential part of your birds’ setup, only just behind food and water on the priority list. Toys provide them with physical and mental stimulation, as well as a lot of fun.
Budgies love to fly, climb, jump, swing and flap, and to explore their environment using both beak and feet. As an owner you will need to make sure you provide toys that fulfil all of these needs. In the picture above we have packed the cage full with perches and toys, but it is usually better to stick to maybe two or three toys in the cage at a time and swap them regularly. You don’t need to get new toys every time as the budgie won’t remember what toys he or she played with two weeks ago, but variety is certainly the spice of life when it comes to budgie toys.
Also, remember that budgies can and should have toys outside the cage for when they are free flying. Make sure everything you give your bird is safe; avoid anything sharp, things with gaps or hoops where a foot or a beak could get stuck, or that would be dangerous for the budgie to ingest bits of.
After a while you’ll probably work out what toys seem to excite your pets the most, but you might have to try a few things before you figure it out. If it seems your budgies don’t like a toy you’ve got for them, it’s worth taking it away and reintroducing it a few days later. Your bird might very well be super excited about the same toy on a different day.
We’ve filled a Geo Bird Cage with some of our favourite toys from the Omlet shop that we know the office budgies go crazy for. Hopefully yours will too!
While perches are not always seen as toys, they are essential to any budgie set up. Without perches your pets will have nowhere to roost at night, but will also be deprived of a lot of entertainment. Sitting holding a wooden stick might not be your idea of fun, but birds love them, and you should always make sure you have a few perches in the cage.
Budgies have excellent colour vision, and colourful toys are normally a big hit. Maybe something like the Classic Fruity Swing Rings, hanging fruit shaped rings that your pet will love climbing up, swinging on and pecking at. It will look cheerful in the cage, and adds an interactive challenge for your budgie, who will also love playing with the attached bell.
The Woven Wonders hanging toys provide great entertainment and intriguing exploring for your budgies. Birds love to chew as they play, and these toys are designed to be durable but shreddable, mimicking the things the budgie might have played with in the wild. We’ve chosen the comet and the dreamcatcher to provide the budgie with colourful toys to swing in and climb on, as well as slowly break with their strong beak.
Your pet budgies will also love the Naturals Peck n Seed Swing. Not only is it a comfortable perch to rest the feet on, it swings gently when suspended from the roof of the cage and is covered in 16 different types of delicious seeds, berries and vegetables. Working out how to remove all the tasty goodies while swinging will keep your budgie happy and stimulated for hours.
Make your pets work for their treats with Vitapol Fruit Sticks. Jampacked with yummy seeds and fruits, it can easily be hung from the mesh in your cage, so your pets can climb close to it and peck away at the tasty stick. Treats should always be fed in moderation, but you don’t need to worry as much about it when you know your birds will have to work for the reward.
Last but not least is the Nature First Husk Puzzler. This hanging toy is designed to enrich your budgies’ environment and provide both physical and mental stimulation. The husk ring combined with braided seagrass and limestone shells is great for all senses, and will look impressive and intriguing in the cage.
We are all used to the idea of fresh food being clean and chilled, so surely the best method of storing eggs is to wash and refrigerate them?
The answer is ‘no’. With a bit of ‘yes’ thrown in. Although the collective knowledge of chicken keepers is vast, there is still debate about the best way to store eggs.
We’ve gathered the various ends of the argument and summarised them below. Welcome to the debate!
Washed eggs?
Unless the eggs are soiled – which is the result of mud or chicken poo in the hen house, rather than dirt deposited during the actual laying – they do not need washing. A freshly laid egg has a shell covered in a protective ‘bloom’, called the cuticle, and this acts as an antibacterial defence system. If it’s washed off, the protection is washed off too. However, if the eggs are then stored in clean boxes, this won’t be a huge issue.
Eggs with dirty shells should be wiped clean, and it’s a good idea to use these soiled ones first – mainly to keep the egg box or egg-skelter looking pretty!
Chilled eggs?
Some chicken keepers keep their eggs in a refrigerator, while others believe this is unnecessary. So what’s the best advice?
There are two rules of thumb – keep them below 20°C, and keep them away from strong odours, as these may affect the flavour. Other than that, it’s really up to you.
A study was carried out in 2013 by Food Test Laboratories in England, comparing the fate of two batches of supermarket eggs. The eggs were kept for two weeks, half of them in the fridge, and the other half at room temperature.
The eggs were tested for ‘usual suspect’ bacteria such as salmonella and listeria, at the beginning of the experiment and two weeks later. The results demonstrated why there is such divided opinion on the issue, as neither sets of eggs showed any signs of bacterial nasties, inside or out.
It’s the cuticle ‘bloom’ that keeps the eggs fresh and bacteria-free. If you’ve had to wash them, it’s probably a good idea to refrigerate them, as the shells will not be protected. Keep them in boxes on the fridge shelves, rather than in a fitted plastic egg tray in the fridge door (formerly a regular feature in new refrigerators).
Eggs don’t like being shaken, as it causes the egg whites to deteriorate and turn slightly watery. An egg that’s shaken by the constant opening of the fridge door is likely to lose its binding qualities in baking, and will look very sad, flat and watery in the poaching or frying pan. Fridge doors are the warmest part of the appliance too, and the area of the fridge where temperature fluctuates the most, which isn’t ideal for egg storage.
Egg basket or box?
Eggs kept outside the fridge can be stacked in boxes, with the oldest ones in the topmost boxes. This age factor is less easy to sort out if you keep the eggs in a wire basket, although these look great on display. Some chicken owners use colour coding dots, or even dates, to sort the young from the old. If you’re unsure about relative age, you can always use the traditional ageing method: place the eggs in a bowl of water, and watch how they sit. Very fresh ones will lie flat on the bottom, while older ones will have their pointed ends raised. Ones that are way past their use-by date will float.
Another advantage of egg boxes is that you can store the eggs with their rounded ends at the top. This keeps the yolks centred, which makes them look their best if you’re hard- or soft-boiling. However, if most of your eggs end up in cakes and quiches, this isn’t going to be an issue.
An egg skelter is another attractive way of storing the fruits of your hens’ labours. These keep the eggs in age-order, and they look great too.
Storing shelled eggs?
Any leftover raw egg can be stored in the fridge in an airtight container. It should be used within three days. Stored yolks should be covered in water to prevent them drying out. The water can be poured away before use.
Uneaten cooked eggs (i.e. hard-boiled) will always leave an ‘eggy’ whiff in the fridge. This is caused by hydrogen sulphide, a gas that forms when eggs are cooked (you’ll notice it’s never present in raw eggs). Although not exactly pleasant, the gas is harmless. Eggs stored in this way should be eaten within one week.
So, the main takeaway here is that eggs can be stored wherever you want them to be stored. As long as you keep them away from heat, strong odours and too much shaking, you’ve got the storage conundrum cracked!
Backyard chickens are tougher than they look, but summer heat is one of the few things that can make their health deteriorate fast. When temperatures climb above 29°C, your flock starts to struggle. Above 35°C, you’re in dangerous territory. Unlike cold weather, where chickens generate their own body heat and huddle together, there’s no built-in defence against extreme heat. With a few adjustments to their environment and a clear understanding of how heat affects chickens, you can make summer much easier for your flock.
What Temperature Is Too Hot for Backyard Chickens?
Chickens begin to feel heat stress at 29°C and face serious risk above 35°C. But temperature alone doesn’t tell the full story. Humidity compounds the danger significantly: a 32°C day at 80% humidity is more dangerous for your flock than a 38°C day in dry air. The combination of heat and moisture prevents the evaporative cooling that panting provides, so birds struggle to regulate their core temperature at all.
The good news is that the peak risk window is predictable: typically between 11am and 4pm, when the sun is at its highest and ambient heat is at its peak. Planning your flock checks and water refills around this window is one of the simplest and most effective things you can do.
Signs of Heat Stress in Chickens (and What to Do Right Now)
Knowing the warning signs before a crisis hits is the difference between a quick intervention and a vet call. Heat stress progresses in stages, and the earlier you catch it, the better the outcome for your bird.
Early Warning Signs
These are the subtle signals your hens give before visible distress sets in:
Loss of appetite and reduced interest in treats or feed
Reduced egg production, sometimes before any physical signs appear
Spending more time in the shade or pressed against the ground
Active Heat Stress Signs
These require immediate action:
Open-mouth panting with the neck stretched forward is the first clearly visible sign
Wings held away from the body, indicating the bird is trying to release heat through her skin
Pale or blue-tinged comb and wattles, which signal reduced blood circulation
Lethargy, stumbling, or a hen that won’t stand up, requires emergency cooling right away
How to Cool an Overheated Hen
If you spot a hen showing active heat stress signs, act quickly but calmly:
Move her immediately to a shaded, well-ventilated area
Offer cool (not ice cold) water and encourage her to drink
Wet her legs and feet only, not her whole body, as a sudden temperature shock can make things worse
Keep her calm and away from the rest of the flock
Never dunk or spray a heat-stressed hen’s whole body. The rapid temperature change can send her into shock. Gradual cooling is always the safer approach.
When to call a vet: If a hen is unresponsive, has laboured breathing, or cannot stand after 20 minutes of gradual cooling, contact your veterinarian. Heat stroke in chickens can be fatal without professional intervention.
How to Keep the Chicken Coop Cool in Summer
The ideal internal coop temperature is below 27°C. Above that threshold, egg production drops and health risks climb. What happens inside the coop at night matters just as much as what happens during the day, because a coop that has absorbed heat all afternoon will keep releasing it for hours after the sun goes down, right when your hens are trying to rest.
Coop Placement and Airflow
Where your coop sits in your yard has a significant impact on how hot it gets:
Position the east or north sideof the coop against a structure, or under a deciduous tree, to block the intense afternoon sun
Ventilation must create cross-flow airflow, meaning air enters from one side and exits from another, rather than just having one opening that traps warm air
Cover 60-70% of the roof to provide shade, if you can’t place the east or north side of the coop against a structure, use a cover on one side but ensure air still flows through the enclosure
A battery-powered or USB fan pointed at the roosting area can drop coop temperature by 3-5°C on still days. Frozen water bottles placed near the roosting bars before nightfall also help bring the overnight temperature down.
Why Coop Material Matters
Wooden coops absorb and retain heat throughout the day, then release it at night, exactly when your chickens need to cool down. This is one of the most overlooked risks in summer chicken keeping.
Twin-wall insulated plastic coops, like the Omlet Eglu range, work very differently. The twin-wall construction means the outer surface absorbs heat without transferring it to the interior, so the inside of the coop stays significantly cooler than a wooden alternative on a hot day. The material also doesn’t retain heat overnight, giving your hens a genuinely comfortable place to roost even during a prolonged heatwave.
Key takeaway: If you’re finding your flock reluctant to go into the coop at night during summer, it’s almost always a heat retention problem with the coop material itself.
Keeping Chickens Hydrated When It’s Hot
Hydration is the single most critical factor in keeping your flock safe during a heatwave. Dehydration can become life-threatening faster than the ambient temperature itself, and it’s entirely preventable with the right setup.
During hot weather, chickens can drink double their normal daily water intake. A flock that usually gets through around two litres a day may need four litres or more when temperatures spike. Plan for this before a heatwave, not during one.
Water Temperature Matters More Than You Think
Water above 15°C is significantly less effective at cooling a chicken’s core body temperature. This is why simply refilling a warm drinker isn’t enough on a hot day. Cool water actively helps bring body temperature down; warm water barely helps at all.
Practical ways to keep water cool:
Place all drinkers in shaded spots to slow warming
Add ice to open drinkers during peak heat hours
Invest in an insulated drinker, like the Omlet Insulated Stay Clean Chicken Drinker, which is tested to maintain cool temperatures in up to 32°C heat for 10 hours without any ice needed (and even longer with ice!)
Positioning and Hygiene
Heat-stressed birds won’t walk far to drink. Place multiple drinkers around your setup, not just in one corner of the run. This is especially important for crested breeds that may struggle to locate a single water source.
Warm, stagnant water grows algae and bacteria rapidly, which is a real health risk in summer. Clean and refill open drinkers frequently. An enclosed drinker is a brilliant solution here: by blocking sunlight from reaching the water, it prevents the algae growth that open containers encourage. The Omlet Insulated Drinker blocks 99% of light, keeping water clean for days without the daily scrubbing that open containers demand.
For extreme heat, electrolyte supplements added to water (available at farm stores and agricultural suppliers) help replenish the minerals your hens lose through panting. This is worth having on hand before summer arrives.
Got more questions about chickens and water? Check out our water guide.
Which Chicken Breeds Struggle Most in the Heat?
Understanding your flock’s breed composition helps you set up your summer care routine correctly. If you keep a mixed flock, always manage your setup for the most heat-vulnerable breed you have. The hardiest birds will be fine; the sensitive ones may not be.
Breeds That Need Extra Attention in Summer
Feather-footed breeds (Cochins, Brahmas, Faverolles) The extra feathering around their legs and feet traps heat and limits their ability to release it through their skin. Check their feet and shanks regularly for warmth or swelling during hot spells.
Crested breeds (Polish, Silkies, Houdans) Head feathers can obstruct vision, meaning these birds may not spot a water source that other hens find easily. Place multiple drinkers at different heights and positions around the run to make sure they always have access.
Dense-feathered breeds (Orpingtons, Wyandottes) Their thick plumage limits the airflow around their bodies. Unlike lighter-feathered breeds that can fluff their feathers to create cooling air pockets, dense-feathered hens have less ability to self-regulate through this mechanism.
Roosters and older hens are also more vulnerable than young pullets, so keep a closer eye on the senior members of your flock during hot spells.
Chickens in a shaded area, whether under trees or with run covers fitted, can cope with higher temperatures than birds exposed to direct sun. Shade is one of the most effective and lowest-cost tools you have.
Breeds That Handle Summer Well
Mediterranean and desert-origin breeds are naturally adapted to heat and generally manage warm summers with minimal intervention:
Leghorns
Anconas
Fayoumis
Penedesencas
Egyptians
These breeds tend to have larger combs and wattles, which act as natural radiators to release body heat, and lighter feathering that allows better airflow.
Does Heat Affect Egg Production?
Yes, and more significantly than most keepers expect. Hens require a core body temperature of around 40-42°C to function normally. When external heat pushes that range, the body diverts energy away from egg production to focus on survival. The result is a measurable drop in your egg basket.
Expect a 10-25% reduction in laying during weeks where temperatures consistently exceed 32°C. Some hens, particularly older ones or heavy breeds, may stop laying entirely until cooler weather returns.
Heat and Eggshell Quality
Reduced laying isn’t the only change you’ll notice. Heat also affects the physical quality of the eggs your hens do produce.
When hens pant to cool down, they expel CO2. This disrupts the calcium carbonate process that forms eggshells, leading to thin, soft, or pitted shells even in hens that are otherwise healthy and well-fed. If you’re seeing shell quality issues during a heatwave, heat is almost certainly the cause, not a calcium deficiency.
Broodiness and Egg Collection
Broodiness increases in summer. A broody hen stops laying completely and generates significant body heat by sitting tight on a nest, which compounds the heat problem for her and any hens sharing the space. If you have a broody hen during a heatwave, move her to a cooler, darker space to break the cycle faster.
Collect eggs twice daily in summer. Eggs left in a warm nest box can reach unsafe temperatures within a few hours. They’re also more likely to encourage broodiness in other hens, creating a cycle that reduces your overall flock production for weeks.
Key Takeaways: Keeping Chickens Cool in Summer
Know the temperature thresholds before a heatwave hits, not during one. Chickens are at serious risk above 35°C, and heat stress begins at 29°C. Humidity makes both thresholds more dangerous.
Panting with an outstretched neck, pale combs, wings held away from the body or an inability to stand are emergency warning signs. Act within minutes, not hours.
Dehydration kills faster than the outside temperature itself. Refresh water regularly to keep it cool, or invest in an insulated drinker to maintain optimal drinking temperature throughout the day.
Maintain active airflow in the coop and run. Cover no more than 60-70% of the run roof, using a cover on only one side if you’re unable to place the north or east side of your coop against a wall.
Feather-footed and crested breeds need extra monitoring. They overheat faster and may not locate water sources without help. Multiple drinkers placed around the run are essential.
Expect a 10-25% drop in egg production during heatwaves. Thin-shelled eggs are a sign that heat is disrupting your hens’ calcium absorption process, not a feeding problem.
Collect eggs twice daily in summer to prevent unsafe temperatures in the nest box and reduce the risk of broodiness spreading through the flock.
Omlet and Your Flock This Summer
Keeping your flock cool is easier when your setup is already doing the work for you. The right equipment doesn’t just make summer safer for your hens; it reduces the daily effort required from you.
The Eglu chicken coop range uses twin-wall insulation that keeps internal temperatures significantly lower than wooden alternatives on hot days, and doesn’t trap heat overnight when your hens need to rest. For your run, our weather protection covers block the harshest afternoon sun while leaving enough open space for airflow, giving your hens a shaded retreat without turning the run into a heat trap.
For hydration, the Omlet Insulated Stay Clean Chicken Drinker is designed specifically for the challenges of summer keeping. It maintains cool water temperatures for up to 10 hours in 32°C heat, blocks 99% of sunlight to prevent algae growth, and holds enough water for a flock of eight hens for three days. That’s fewer daily refills and consistently cooler water, exactly when your hens need it most.
If you have problems with your cat eating their food too quickly, try changing their food bowl to a larger, shallow plate. This will slow them down significantly as they have to take smaller mouthfuls, which minimises the risk of the food coming back up again.
2.
If you’re worried your cat doesn’t drink enough water, try putting the water bowl in a different spot to where they get fed. In the wild, cats will not drink at the same place as they eat to avoid the meat contaminating the water, and this behaviour lives on with some pet cats.
3.
Does your cat rub against your laptop or try to sit on the keyboard as you’re trying to work from home? Bring out the best cat toy of all time, the cardboard box! Place a box on your desk and most cats will forget about you and happily play or curl up in the box.
4.
Try freezing some of the treats you give to your cat. The unusual texture and temperature of the treat will stimulate several of the cat’s senses and encourage explorative play. This is especially good in summer when the cat will love the cooling effect even more.
5.
If you want to keep your cat off the kitchen counter, a new sofa or an expensive side table, put some double sided tape over the surface where the cat’s sharp claws would cause damage. Cats hate the feeling of the sticky tape, and will quickly learn to avoid these spots. At that point you can remove the tape.
6.
The best way to avoid cat hair all over the house is to get on top of grooming and brush your cat regularly, preferably daily. It doesn’t only decrease unwanted shedding, it also helps the cat groom itself and prevents matted fur and hairballs. Get a brush that suits your cat’s type of hair and make it a lovely time of the day together with your cat.
7.
For fur that has gathered on rugs and upholstery, put on a rubber glove and run your hand over the surface to gather up pet hair. Shower squeegees can also be useful for this task!
8.
Potted plants sometimes become alternative litter boxes, which is neither nice nor very good for the plant. To stop your cat from going in the pot, cover the soil with a layer of pine cones. These blend in nicely, but will put your feline friend off.
9.
One of the best ways of stimulating an indoor cat is to give them a place to climb. If you haven’t got enough space for a large climbing station, put up some shelves that the cat can explore.
10.
No matter how much you groom your cat and make sure the house is nice and clean, the cat’s bed will still be exposed to a lot of hair and dirt. Make sure you get a cat bed with a machine washable cover that can be cleaned over and over again without fading or weakening. The Omlet Bolster Cat Beds with a super comfortable memory foam mattress are a perfect solution for all cat owners.
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