Summer is a great time to enjoy your chickens. But along with the summer fun comes sweltering heat and high humidity for many chicken keepers. Being aware of the signs of heatstroke in chickens can keep your flock safe and enable you to enjoy the warmer months along with them.
What is chicken heatstroke?
Heatstroke is what animals, including chickens, can experience when they become overheated to the point of it causing internal organ failure. Also known as heat exhaustion, heatstroke in chickens is more than just a hot hen — it’s the result of their body temperatures being elevated beyond a safe level for an extended period of time. Chickens that are too hot for too long simply can’t cool themselves anymore, and will succumb to heat exhaustion. When not treated properly and promptly, heatstroke can quickly become fatal to any affected hens. It’s important to help your chickens stay cool in the summer to avoid their body temperatures reaching this dangerous level.
Are any chicken breeds more susceptible to heatstroke?
Some breeds of chickens are more heat tolerant than others. The breeds that tend to not fare as well in hot climates are those that are bred primarily for meat such as Jersey Giants, and Delewares. Most egg-laying breeds of chickens do well in the hot weather as long as they have the right provisions — though some may need a little more support than others.
Silkies are a breed that doesn’t thrive in hot weather. This is largely due to their unusual feathers, as they can’t circulate air as proficiently as their regular-feathered cousins. Their head plumage can also obstruct their vision, making it more difficult for them to find water readily. Heavy breeds like Brahmas and Orpingtons may also struggle more in the heat due to their size.
Heat hardiness also depends on where chickens are raised. Hens that are adapted to the heat will fare much better than those that were relocated from a cooler climate to a warmer one. If you’re adding new chickens to your flock and experience intense heat in the summer, it’s best to obtain hens that are already accustomed to the warmer temperatures.
How to prevent chicken heatstroke
The old adage “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure” is applicable when protecting your flock from heatstroke. One of the most important methods of keeping your hens cool in the heat is proper coop ventilation. Traditional wooden coops get stuffy and humid, keeping hens hot and uncomfortable. This can spell trouble quickly when the temperatures rise.
The Eglu Cube chicken coop by Omlet provides ample ventilation to move cooler air into the coop, which helps keep the internal temperature down. You’ll also want to provide as much shade as possible in your chickens’ run. This will help keep their body temperatures down, as well as keeping water sources cooler. Other preventative measures to combat heatstroke in chickens include:
Providing plenty of fresh, cool water
Letting your chickens dust bathe
Offering frozen treats like corn or other chicken-safe vegetables
Adding electrolytes to their water
Frequently checking in on your flock to see how they are faring
6 signs of heatstroke in chickens
Recognizing heatstroke in chickens quickly can make all the difference when treating it. Overheated chickens need prompt care in order to make a full recovery, so be on the lookout for the following signs of heatstroke in your flock.
1. Decrease in egg production
Chickens take their jobs of supplying eggs for your family seriously, so if they slow down or stop producing eggs then there is likely something amiss. Summertime is not part of the usual moulting season for chickens — which is the only natural reason for young (non-broody) hens to stop laying eggs. You should investigate the cause of any decrease in egg laying by your hens, especially in the summer months, as this can be a warning sign to your flock getting too hot.
2. Lethargy
Hens that aren’t willing to move, seem dull, or appear sluggish should be evaluated for heatstroke. When hens are merely resting they will be stirred easily by food or human contact. Lethargic hens may be slow to respond or refuse to get up for food or after a gentle nudge from their owner.
3. Panting
The open-mouthed breathing associated with dogs is actually a cooling mechanism employed by chickens as well. While chickens may not loll their tongues out of their mouths, they will pant with their beaks open. Panting for short periods of time is a natural response to the heat, but keep a close eye on your flock if you notice panting. Offer cool water or frozen treats when you first notice them displaying this behaviour.
4. Increased thirst
Are your flocks draining their drinkers? It’s good for chickens to drink more water during the summer, but make sure their waterers stay full and clean. Chickens can become dehydrated quickly on a hot day, and if their thirst can’t be slaked they will deteriorate rapidly. If you notice that you’re filling your flock’s drinkers much more often than usual, it could be a sign that they’re getting too hot.
5. Reduced feed intake
Healthy chickens also take eating very seriously. Any hens off of their feed need to be checked thoroughly. Make sure your chickens have access to quality laying pellets at all times, and offer frozen treats and fresh fruits and veggies often during the summer. Scratch grains are best offered in the evenings, as these grains increase your chickens’ metabolisms, which causes their bodies to heat up. The amount you feed your chickens should not need to be adjusted in the warmer months, and you can expect healthy hens to go through the same amount of feed as they normally would. Many animals (chickens included) will naturally eat less during the warm months, but it should not make a significant difference to your flock’s feeder.
6. Wings outstretched
Chickens don’t have sweat glands, so they have to find creative ways to expel heat from their bodies. Panting is one way, but stretching their wings or holding their feathers more erect is another. This allows more air circulation around their bodies and through their feathers in an effort to bring their core temperature down.
All of these symptoms can be signs of chicken heatstroke, but they can also point to other problems that can plague your hens. Familiarize yourself with chicken ailments so that you’ll be able to differentiate between conditions that may require different treatments.
How to treat chicken heatstroke
Preventing heatstroke in chickens is the best way to combat it. But, should you find any of your flock presenting with symptoms of heatstroke, you’ll need to act quickly. And, if the following actions don’t have your hen improving, it’s time to call your veterinarian.
First, you’ll need to move any affected hens to a cool, shaded area. It may be tempting to bring them indoors, but cooling them down too quickly can actually cause them to go into shock — which can be lethal.
If your hen is conscious and compliant, you can fill a bucket with enough cool (not ice-cold) water to submerge them from their neck down. It’s very important to not use very cold water, as cooling a hot hen down too quickly can cause them to go into shock, which is often fatal. After this brief soak, place the hen in a cool, shaded area until they are acting normally once again.
Omlet and keeping your hens safe
The Eglu Cube chicken coop by Omlet was designed to keep your hens cool in summer and warm in the winter. We want hens all over the world to be comfortable all year round. By putting chicken run covers over your flock’s outdoor space and providing them with the twin-insulated Eglu Cube, both you and your birds will be able to get back to enjoying a carefree summer.
Chicken eggs are considered one of the healthiest food sources. Packed with essential nutrients and protein, it’s a staple in most family diets. But even more than a food source, chicken eggs are fun to gather, display, and hatch. Learn how to encourage your hens to lay beautiful eggs all year long, store these labours of love, and even hatch fertilised eggs with the help of an incubator or broody hen.
Creating the perfect environment for chicken egg laying
First and foremost, hens need a safe, quiet space to lay their eggs. Hens will naturally seek out the most suitable place to lay a chicken egg – so if a designated nesting area isn’t supplied to them, hens will venture off in search of the right spot. The ideal nesting area is in a covered space like achicken coop, away from your flock’s active areas. Enclosed nesting boxes or spaces are preferred, as hens will instinctively want their eggs safe fromchicken predators.
Omlet’s hen houses have designated nesting areas inside that are comfortable and secluded. Hens will feel safe inside of their enclosed coop’s nesting area, and with the rest of the flock out for the day, will have the privacy needed to encourage egg laying.
How to encourage egg laying
Good laying hens can produce over 250 eggs per year without much supplemental encouragement. As long as they have adequate space and nutrition, their natural egg-laying cycles should remain intact. Aim to give your flock as much space as possible outside of the coop, whether free-ranging with the help ofchicken fencing or in achicken run.
Free-choice of high-quality layer pellets or crumbles, with protein levels between 16%-18% depending on their breed
Fresh greens or grass as often as possible
What to do if your hens stop laying eggs
If you notice fewer eggs in the nesting area, it’s time toperform a health check on your chickens. Any hens with noticeable discomfort should be quarantined, and you should contact your veterinarian. If all of your hens appear healthy, there are 6 otherways to boost egg production among your flock:
Make sure your hens are visiting the nesting box, as they could be laying eggs elsewhere
If you have a broody hen among your flock, it may affect your other hens’ cycles
Make sure your hens are not moulting, asegg production will decrease for several weeks during a moult
If these methods don’t help or give you insight into any potential issues, contact your veterinarian.
How and when to collect your hens’ eggs
It’s important to collect your chickens eggs daily. Eggs left in nesting areas are at risk of being cracked or broken by multiple hens using the nest. And, eggs left in the coop may draw in pests or predators.
How often hens lay eggs
Good laying hens will produce an egg approximately every day and a half. The majority of hens will lay their eggs in the late morning or early afternoon hours, but there may be some stragglers toward the end of the day. It’s very uncommon for hens to lay their eggs overnight. This means that early evening would be the best time to check your coop for chicken eggs.
If you’re concerned abouthow long your hens’ eggs can stay in the coop, try to collect them at least once a day. But, in general, eggs are still safe to consume even if they are left to sit in the coop for several days. The hot summer months will reduce this timeframe, but eggs are still safe to consume after exposure to the heat. Winter months pose a challenge due to the risk ofeggs freezing in the coop. If your area experiences prolonged temperatures below freezing, you may want to check your coop several times a day before eggs have a chance to freeze solid.
Daily egg collections
Daily egg collections will also help deter hens from going broody. If you want tokeep hens from becoming broody, remove any eggs from under a hen that has been sitting for longer than usual to lay an egg. Be cautious – even the most docile hens can get aggressive when protecting a clutch of eggs they’ve decided to sit on.
How to tell if a chicken egg is fertilised
Eggs require a cockerel in order to be fertilised. Cockerels fertilise the eggs before they are laid, so if you have a cockerel in your flock, there’s a potential for any of your hens’ eggs to be fertilised.
There are some misconceptions about cockerels, eggs, and fertilisation. The most common ones are:
Hens do NOT need a cockerel to produce eggs – they will lay eggs regardless
Not all chicken eggs will be fertilised if you have a cockerel in your flock
The only way to know if a freshly laid egg is fertilised is to crack it open
If you’re interested in hatching your own chicken eggs, the best method is to pay attention to the eggs you’re eating. When you crack them open, look for a “bullseye” pattern in the yolk. This subtle change that appears as a target will be your clue that the egg is fertilised. If you notice most of the eggs you’re cracking are fertilised, start saving a few to place in an incubator. After 1 week in the incubator, you’ll be able to candle the eggs to see if there is embryonic development.
How to hatch eggs
Hatching your own eggs is an exciting experience. If you choose to incubate your eggs instead of having a broody hen sit on them, you’ll be able to document their progress by using an egg candler. This special light will help you see how the chicks are developing, and will help you dispose of any unfertilised eggs before they spoil and burst.
To hatch your own chicken eggs, you’ll need:
An incubator
Thermometer (if not included in your incubator)
Hygrometer to monitor humidity level
Egg candler (optional)
Chicken eggs take 21 days to hatch from the time of incubation. It’s best to place eggs in the incubator as soon as possible, but if you muststore eggs before incubation, they can be kept in temperatures between 13-18°C for up to 7 days.
On day 18 of incubation, you’ll want to “lockdown” your incubator. This means you’ll add water if needed (humidity levels need to increase to 65-70% in the final 3 days before hatching). Turn off any automatic turners, or stop hand-turning your eggs on day 18, and place a non-slip covering on the hatching floor of your incubator so that newly hatched chicks do not develop splayed legs. A paper towel or non-slip shelf liner that will allow ventilation are both good options.
Taking care of chicks once they’ve hatched
Once your chicks have hatched, be sure to leave them in the incubator until they are dry and fluffy. This will ensure they don’t get chilled when they’re moved to their brooder pen. The nutrients that fed chicks while they were inside of their eggs will sustain them for up to 48 hours after hatching, so it’s safe to allow them to fully dry before moving them.
A secure brooder pen with a top to prevent escapes
A heat source like a brooder plate or lamp
Chick starter crumbles – medicated or non-medicated depending on your preference
Chick-specific feeders and waterers
Absorbent bedding like pine shavings or pellets
Adequate time to check in on your chicks daily
Chicks can be quite messy as they work on their coordination. Waterers should be checked frequently for debris to make sure they have access to clean water, and feed should be refreshed. Growing up is tough work, and chicks will need to consume a lot of feed.
The benefits of having your own egg-laying chickens
Having your hens help with pest control and lawn care
The opportunity to experience owning a unique pet
There’s nothing like gathering freshly laid eggs from your own flock of chickens. Proudly display your hens’ labours of love in anegg skelter on your kitchen counter, or gift friends and family members withsmall packs of eggs.
Best breeds for egg laying
There are many differentbreeds of chickens, many of which are known for their proficiency in laying eggs. Some of thebest breeds for egg laying include:
Chickens that are bred for ornamental purposes will still lay eggs, but at a much lower volume than laying breeds. Bantam (miniature varieties of full-sized breeds) also lay eggs, but they are much smaller and less frequent than their full-sized counterparts.
Leaving them unwashed and set out at room temperature
Washing them and storing them in the refrigerator
It’s very important that any eggs left out at room temperature remain unwashed. Introducing eggs to water or cleaning solution removes the bloom (microscopic protective barrier) from the shell. Egg shells are semipermeable – meaning air and moisture can pass in and out. Once the bloom has been washed off, the eggshell loses its natural barrier to keep harmful bacteria out.
Unwashed eggs can also be stored in the refrigerator, but washed eggs must be stored in the refrigerator to remain fresh. That’s why store-bought eggs are refrigerated – they have all been washed.
If you choose to wash your eggs, you can either make a DIY egg cleaning solution from vinegar or purchase ready-made egg cleaning products. Or, if you want to simply use water, soak your eggs in warm water, as this will help keep bacteria from entering through the pores of the shell. After a nice soak, gently rub your eggs with a cloth or soft-bristled brush. Dry with a towel, and promptly place your cleaned eggs in the fridge.
Chicken egg colour guide
Did you know yourhens’ eggshell colours are the result of genetics? Hens will lay the same coloured eggs their entire lives. Some breeds are bred to lay specific colours, while other breeds differ from hen to hen. Sometimes nutrition or health changes can subtly impact the colour or appearance of your hens’ eggs, but you should expect consistency from your hens.
Common chicken eggshell colours include white or cream, and browns in various hues. Chicken eggs can also be blue, green, and even pink. Most eggs are a solid colour, but some breeds likeMarans,Barnevelders, andWelsummers can lay speckled eggs.
Yourhens’ eggs tell about their health. Sometimes misshapen, discoloured, or eggs laid with shell anomalies point to a nutritional deficit. If you notice your hens laying eggs that aren’t consistent with their previous appearances, it’s best to evaluate their diet.
Frequently asked questions about chicken eggs
How frequently do chickens lay eggs?
Every hen is different, but peak age for most laying hens is around a year and a half through 2 or 3 years of age. During that time, a good laying hen should produce anywhere from 250-350 eggs per year depending on their genetics. Egg production will decrease as hens age, and will also dip or stop altogether during their yearly molting cycle. Some hens may also decrease egg production in the wintertime to reallocate energy to stay warm.
Do chickens stop laying at a certain age?
Depending on their breed, most chickens will stop laying eggs by the time they are 4 or 5 years old. There are some breeds of chickens that will lay well into their later years, while others will drastically decrease production by year 3 or 4.
How do chickens lay eggs?
Chickens ovulate in order to lay an egg. Ovulation takes about 24 hours to complete, and starts in the ovary. The yolk is formed first, then passes through the oviduct where it is surrounded by the white (also called the albumen). Finally, the egg is encased in its shell inside of the hen’s uterus (or “shell gland”).Shell formation takes roughly 20 hours, after which the egg is laid by the hen via the cloaca or “vent”. All excretions from the hen exit through the vent, but during egg laying a hens’ uterine lining stays with the egg until it has been deposited – keeping it nice and clean.
Do chickens eat their own eggs?
Hens may begin to eat their own eggs for the following reasons:
Nutritional deficiencies – usually low calcium intake
Dehydration
Boredom
Stress
Feeling unsafe in the nesting area
Keep your hens from eating their eggs by supplementing their diet with calcium. Crushed oyster shells can be purchased from feed stores, or you can save the eggshells from eggs you are using to crush and feed back to your hens for a boost in calcium. Always make sure your hens have plenty of fresh water to ward off dehydration.
Provide boredom-busting activities withchicken toys, and make sure your hens are housed in securechicken coops andchicken runs. Hens that don’t feel safe may eat their eggs to hide evidence of their presence fromchicken predators. Consider installing anautomatic chicken coop door to make your hens’ feel more secure in their home.
Get more chicken eggs with Omlet
All of our chicken products are designed to promote safety, comfort, and security for hens, and for ease of use for their caretakers. Healthy, happy hens lay more eggs – so give them plenty to occupy their busy minds. Awalk in chicken run gives your flock ample room outside of the coop to forage and play. Add aChicken Swing to give your hens a unique place to relax in between egg-laying sessions, and to provide versatility in their space.
Looking for a beginner chicken coop? The best chicken coop for beginners are those that can grow along with flocks and their keepers – making it the first and last chicken coop you’ll need to buy. There’s a lot hinging on your hens’ home: their health, safety, and comfort. You’ll also want a coop that is easy and quick for you to clean, and is enjoyable to use. Omlet has the coops to check all of those boxes – and more.
The best Omlet chicken coops for beginners
The best chicken coops grow with their flocks and keepers’ level of experience. And, the best beginner chicken coops are easy to use from the start, but also functional and practical enough for even the most advanced chicken keeper.
We’ve made keeping chickens easy for all ages and stages of flock-raisers. Omlet’s line of Eglu chicken coops not only provide superior safety and comfort to the hens they house, but also allow owners to spend less time cleaning and worrying and more time enjoying their flock.
All of our coops are:
Easy to build
Simple to clean
Predator resistant
Have the ability to be mobile with the addition of our wheels and handles kit
Are twin-wall insulated, keeping your flock comfortable all year round
Choosing your chicken coop depends on your space and how big of a flock you intend to keep. Once you’ve got an idea of where you want to place your coop and how many hens you want to have, you’re ready to find the coop that best fits your needs.
Types of chicken coops
There are a few choices to make when it comes to buying a beginner chicken coop. Some popular options are:
Each type of chicken coop has their own advantages, so you’ll need to decide which option best fits your lifestyle and space. For example, mobile chicken coops allow you to move your flock around your garden whenever you’d like. This lets your hens peck new grass and prevents a permanent spot from being worn into your lawn. Large chicken coops can house up to 10 small breed hens comfortably, and can also be converted into chicken tractors. Ground-level coops are best for chickens that don’t have a strong roosting drive, or for gardens subject to height restrictions.
Purchase a plastic chicken coop at the beginning of your chicken-keeping journey, and it will serve you and your flock for years to come.
DIY vs ready-made chicken coops
Deciding whether to buy or build your first chicken coop? Building a proper chicken coop from scratch is hard – especially if you’re new to chickens. Hens have essentials when it comes to their home, and it’s hard for DIY plans to get them right. Most DIY plans look aesthetically pleasing, but leave much to be desired in functionality, safety, and practicality.
Omlet coops come as a kit to be assembled and have everything you need to get started with your flock right away. Our designs have been keeping hens healthy and happy for over a decade – so there’s no guesswork for you.
Choosing the perfect size coop for your flock
There’s a term that all chicken keepers will experience at some point: chicken math.
It’s used to describe the phenomenon of bringing home more chickens than you originally intended. This can occur right off the bat, or take a few months to set in, but at some point, most (if not all) chicken keepers crave more chickens.
That being said, it’s always best to get the biggest coop you can for your space and budget. Chickens thrive when as much space as possible is available to them, and extra space allows room for the inevitable chicken math conundrum.
What needs to be in your new chicken coop
A good chicken coop keeps hens comfortable, safe, and shielded from the elements – but a great chicken coop offers entertainment and enrichment as well. Chickens get bored if they don’t have enough stimulation, which can lead to behavioural and health issues. Be sure to offer a variety of things to keep your flock busy when they’re in their coop’s attached run. To bust boredom, try offering:
The more space and activities your hens have, the happier and healthier they’ll be. Some other ideas to keep boredom at bay include: serving fresh veggies in a Caddi Chicken Treat Holder, socialising with your flock, or moving a mobile chicken coop to fresh pecking grounds.
Top chicken coop care tips for new keepers
New chicken keepers should keep the following in mind when taking care of their chicken coops:
Clean out your chickens’ coop daily to keep it fresh and to keep your hens’ in good health
Use an odour-absorbing bedding such as pine pellets or shavings
At least once a week, remove the roosting rack and droppings tray from your coop to pressure wash, or scrub with soap and water
Collect eggs daily to help prevent broody hens and visits from predators
Keeping your chicken coop clean is one of the best ways to ensure that your hens are in a healthy atmosphere. Like most birds, chickens keep themselves clean through preening and dust bathing – but it’s up to their owners to keep up with their housekeeping.
Choosing a run your flock will love
Companion pieces to most chicken coops are chicken runs. Even if you want your hens to have access to most of your garden, there will inevitably be times that you’ll want to keep them penned up in a run. Large chicken runs give flocks that free-range feeling, without the hazards.
The best option for large spaces is a walk in chicken run. Not only does it maximize your chickens’ space, but it allows you to walk with your flock and get closer than ever to your hens. Omlet’s walk in chicken runs can also be extended at any time to accommodate a growing flock. Covers for walk in chicken runs can be added to give your flock shade from the sun or a barrier from snow, rain, and wind.
Other considerations when choosing your coop
Once you’ve researched and chosen the type of coop that best fits your lifestyle, you’ll also need to consider: chicken predators, the changing seasons, and zoning laws that may be applicable to you.
Predators
Omlet coops are designed to protect against chicken predators. The types of predators vary depending on your location, and you can bet that at some point they will come after your hens. Common chicken predators include:
Foxes
Badgers
Neighbourhood cats and dogs
Adding an automatic chicken coop door to your chickens’ coop adds an extra layer of protection against predators. The Autodoor ensures that your flock is safely closed into their coop each night, and the horizontal opening mechanism makes it extremely difficult for predators to pry open.
Seasons
Chickens are amazingly resilient, being built for life outdoors. However, not all breeds fare well in extreme temperatures. That’s why it’s so important to choose breeds that are suited to your location’s climate. Cold hardy breeds typically don’t fare well in the heat, while heat-tolerant breeds may struggle in the bitter cold. Ageing hens may also not weather the changing seasons as they once did, and some minor coop modifications can go a long way in helping them through more extreme temperatures.
The same tarps and covers can also be used for hot weather conditions by providing shade on scorching days. Hens often do well in warm weather as long as they have adequate shade and water.
Keeping chickens for the first time
Getting chickens for the first time is an exciting experience. But don’t forget that preparation goes a long way when getting ready to bring your flock home. Make sure you have the time, space, and supplies for your hens before committing to being a flock’s forever home. Some additional things to consider when keeping chickens:
A safe, comfortable chicken coop
Chicken run
Perches
Food
Feeders and waterers
Make sure all of your equipment is assembled, and familiarise yourself with it before introducing your flock. You may find yourself wanting to make minor adjustments such as moving feeders and waterers or perches around, but the majority of your chickens’ set-up should be well established by the time your hens come home.
Your first and last chicken coop with Omlet
Choosing your chicken coop is a commitment, but when the creators of the coop are as committed to chickens and their keepers as Omlet, you’re sure to have the best experience possible. And, don’t forget to have fun with your flock. Accessories for your chickens take flock-keeping to the next level, and chicken treats help you quickly bond with your hens.
When you choose Omlet for your chickens’ coop and accessories, you’re not just purchasing your first coop – it’s the only coop you’ll ever have to buy. Unless of course you fall victim to chicken math and need more chicken coops. Don’t say we didn’t warn you!
You may not find a class on how to raise chickens at your local college or university – which is why we’re here to help you get started on your chicken-raising journey. Lots of information about chicken care for beginners can be found online, but it can all be a bit overwhelming. The surest way to succeed is to stick to the basics, opt for a high-quality, long-lasting set up, and to keep things simple. Omlet has the knowledge and the products to help you succeed when getting chickens for the first time.
Reasons to start raising chickens
If you’re new to poultry, getting chickens for the first time can seem daunting. Hens are often viewed as farm-specific animals whose main purpose is to lay eggs. But chickens actually make wonderful garden pets that are full of personality and character.
There are so many benefits of raising chickens. These include, but are not limited to:
Other family pets that may pose a risk to your hens
Selecting your chicken coop and run
Chickens don’t require as much hands-on care as other pets do, but will still need to be looked after daily. Make sure you have adequate space for the number of chickens you want to keep, giving them as much space as possible. Secure your chickens’ area to prevent other pets or predators from reaching them.
The best beginner chicken breeds
It’s a good idea to research and decide whichbreeds of chicken you want to keep before bringing any hens home. Different breeds have different qualities and temperaments, but here are some that are known for being great hens for first-time chicken keepers:
Consider your climate, available space, and egg-laying expectations when selecting which breeds you want to keep. Keeping a “mixed flock” is common among chicken keepers, as it adds variety to your egg basket. You may also find “barnyard mix” hens, which are a mixture of several different breeds. These hens are often bred to be excellent egg layers, be cold or heat-hardy, or to have a specific ornamental appearance.
If you’re getting full-grown chickens, select your hens based on temperament and appearance. As with other pets, hens have unique personalities and some may be more in sync with your own personality.
Getting started with chicks vs mature hens
If you want to start your flock from baby chicks, it’s best to familiarise yourself with the breeds you want to keep. Once you’ve decided on which breeds you want, you’ll need to knowwhere to find and buy your chicks. No matter where you purchase your chicks from, be sure they are reputable establishments or breeders for the types of chicks you’ve chosen.
Raising chicks can be a very rewarding experience for any flock-keeper – beginner or experienced. Chicks grow fairly quickly, but do require extra care and equipment until they’re old enough to be more self-sufficient. To raise baby chicks, you’ll need:
A secure brooder pen
A heat lamp or brooder plate
Chick-specific feeders and drinkers
Chick-feed and grit
With each newstage of raising chicks comes different necessities. Newly hatched chicks will need a special enclosure called a “brooder” for the first several weeks of life. A brooder should be predator-resistant and kept somewhere out of the elements. Garages or barns are ideal places to keep brooder pens. Baby chicks will also need a heat source (which mother hens would ordinarily provide) that is adjusted weekly to help them adjust to life outside. You can expect to house and care for your chicks in their brooder until they are around 12 weeks old.
One of the greatest benefits of raising chicks is being able to handle them from a young age. Handling your chicks daily will help to make them more docile as adult hens. After a short while of being handled and housed in the brooder, your chicks will be ready to be moved to their permanent home.
Best chicken coops for beginners
Aside from the chickens themselves, achicken coop is the most important aspect of keeping chickens. And, as a beginner, you’ll want a coop that works with you, not against you. For example, DIY chicken coop plans may look appealing, but they often lack fundamental provisions for your flock. It’s important to have a safe, easy-to-clean, comfortable coop for your hens to support their health and well-being.
Think of your garden’s space, and how large of a flock you intend to keep. If you want to keep more than four hens, you’ll need alarge chicken coop.
Determine how much time you want to dedicate to cleaning and maintaining your chicken coop and run. It’s important to remember that wooden chicken coops all require routine maintenance, updating, and take several hours to clean thoroughly.
Plastic chicken coops don’t rot, peel, or succumb to the elements – so they require zero maintenance. Omlet chicken coops are also incredibly easy to clean: simply remove the droppings tray and roosting rack, dump the bedding, spray or wipe clean, add fresh bedding, and place the components back in the coop. Our coops take all of the guesswork out of chicken care for beginners, and allow you to spend more time enjoying your flock, and less time cleaning and maintaining their coop.
How much space does a chicken need?
Chickens crave space, and lots of it. Chickens are much happier when allowed as much space as possible to explore.Chicken runs give your flock a safe space outside of their coop to peck at grass and insects, stretch their legs and wings, and soak in fresh air and sunshine.
A great option for first-time chicken owners is awalk in chicken run. These runs not only give your hens more aerial space forchicken perches, but also allow you to easily spend time with your flock. Our chicken coop attached runs can be easily integrated with a walk in run, or you can simply place your chickens’ coop right inside of the walk in run.
We’ve also made it possible toextend your walk in run as your flock grows. Both the length and width can be extended at any time, giving your hens maximum space. You can also addwalk in chicken run partitions to create different areas of your walk in run. This is helpful for keeping hens separated if needed or when introducing new flock members.
If free-ranging is more in line with your lifestyle, considerchicken fencing to keep your hens close to home. Chicken fencing can be used to prevent your flock from getting into flower beds, wandering off of your property, and straying too far from home. Configure a pen of any shape with posts that can be repositioned at any time, or anchor the fence to a structure with a wall mount. An easy-access gate allows you to enter and spend time with your hens while they explore their surroundings.
How much to feed a chicken per day?
Each chicken needs about 120g of quality feed per day to stay healthy, happy, and laying their best. Chickens are fairly self-sufficient and prefer their feed to be left out during the day so they can snack as needed. To keep your flock fed, simply keep theirchicken feeders full of quality feed.
What type of feed should I give my chickens?
If your hens are laying age (16 weeks or older), they’ll need to be fed laying pellets or crumble. Both varieties offer the same nutrients, so it comes down to what your flock prefers. Some hens, especially smaller breeds or older chicks transitioning from chick crumble, may do better with crumble, but either option will keep your hens healthy and productive.
How can I keep feeding time clean and easy?
Chickens can make quite a mess of their feed, which can attract pests to your chicken run unless you clean up and bring the feeder in every night. To save yourself time and keep things tidy, consider investing in a feeder like theOmlet Smart No Waste Chicken Feeder. Its clever no-spill design keeps your run pristine, and the automatic daylight sensor closes the feeder at night so you never have to bring it in away from twilight pests. It holds enough feed for six hens for a whole week and even sends refill alerts to your phone, so you’re always one step ahead. Try offering treats in aCaddi Chicken Treat Holder or aChicken Peck Toy to keep your flock entertained while keeping food off the ground and your run clean.
How much water does a chicken drink per day?
A healthy chicken drinks around 500ml of water each day, but this can double in hot weather or if your hens are laying eggs regularly. Just like you, chickens thrive when they have constant access to fresh, clean water, so keeping their drink topped up is one of the most important factors to ensure happy, productive hens.
How long can a chicken go without water?
Chickens can’t go long without water, just 24 hours without fresh water can seriously impact their health and egg-laying. In hot weather, they can become dehydrated even faster. That’s why it’s so important to make sure your flock always has access to clean, cool water. A reliable waterer takes the guesswork out of hydration and keeps your chickens happy, healthy, and laying their best.
What is the best chicken drinker?
When it comes to choosing the best chicken drinker for your flock, you want something that keeps water clean, flowing and is easy to refill. TheOmlet Insulated Chicken Drinker keeps the water inside fluid and at a comfortable drinking temperature even when it’s freezing cold or boiling hot outside. The enclosed design also keeps out debris and algae, so your hens always have access to the freshest water possible.
Caring for your backyard chickens
Getting into a routine will come naturally after you’ve tended to your chickens for a few weeks. Coop cleaning, feeding, watering, and egg collecting are all part of the daily task list for chicken keepers. If you’re unsure about what your routine should look like, here are some things you should be doing daily and weekly to keep your coop clean and fresh:
Chickens thrive on routine, and will help you establish one that works for both of you. Most chickens are ready to go out of the coop at sunrise, and will naturally go in to roost around sunset. Hens will usually lay eggs in the late morning or early afternoon, but the timing will vary between chickens and seasons. It’s not common for hens to lay eggs overnight, but it’s good practice to check the nesting boxes each time you visit the coop.
Predators, & protection from seasons
You’ll need to make a few adjustments to your flock’s setup depending on where you live. Luckily, Omlet makes it easy to adapt and overcome obstacles as a new chicken keeper.
Chicken predators
Chicken predators are an unavoidable part of keeping a flock. No matter where you live you’ll encounter predators that will try to take advantage of hens that aren’t fully protected. From foxes to badgers, and even local dogs and cats, you’ll need to fortify your flock’s home. Some common predators you may encounter include:
Badgers
Foxes
Cats and dogs
Birds of prey
Stoats and weasels
Rats
Make sure your chicken coop doors are secure and have mechanisms that can’t be pried open by pesky paws. Installing anautomatic chicken coop door adds an extra layer of protection between your hens and predators trying to get in a closed-up coop. The horizontal open and closing mechanism helps prevent the door being pried open – unlike vertical opening doors.
Seasonal protection
As outdoor pets, your chickens need different care during different times of the year. Most chicken keepers elect to cover their chickens’ runs to protect them from the elements. Omlet’s line ofheavy-duty chicken run covers offers protection from rain, snow, wind, and harmful UV rays. Our dark green tarps are perfect for providing shade on a hot summer day, while our clear tarps allow sunlight to filter through to warm your hens during the chilly winter months.
The temperate weather of spring and fall is favourable for hens, depending on your location. And while most breeds of chicken tolerate both high and low temperatures, if your area experiences extreme temperatures you’ll need to take additional measures to keep your hens comfortable.
During extreme cold temperatures in the winter, consider adding anextreme temperature jacket to your chickens’ coop. While ourEglu chicken coops are designed to keep the inside temperature at a comfortable level, your hens will appreciate the extra layer of insulation during the bitterly cold months, especially if you opt for a small flock or small breeds. Be sure to also offer your hens plenty of perching space as reprieve from the frozen ground. Offer warming chicken treats to keep their metabolisms up and to promote egg laying.
How many eggs do chickens lay per year?
Egg-laying breeds of chickens will produce approximately one egg every day and a half. That means that during peak laying age (around two years old), high-producing egg layers can produce between 250-300 eggs per year. But do they need your help to accomplish this?
Many first-time chicken owners wonder what they can do to encourage hens to lay eggs. The main components to help keep hens happily laying are:
Chickens can make wonderful, entertaining pets that offer enjoyment to any family – so long as expectations are realistic and preparations are made. Before diving into the world of chickens, remember:
Don’t expect chickens to be cuddly, hands-on pets, they’re friendly, but usually prefer a little space.
Avoid buying cheap, flimsy coops or runs that might rot or fall apart; invest in quality from the start.
Don’t forget that chickens live outdoors all year; make sure their setup can handle changing weather.
Don’t try raising chicks unless you have a safe brooder, can manage the hatching process, and have time to care for them for 2–3 months before they move outside.
Never skip checking with your local authorities about keeping chickens or setting up a coop.
Don’t bring home chickens without researching the breeds that best fit your lifestyle and space.
And most importantly, don’t forget to have fun and enjoy the experience!
Begin keeping chickens with Omlet
Starting your chicken-keeping adventure should feel exciting, not overwhelming, and that’s where Omlet comes in. We’re here to make every step easy, fun, and full of possibilities. With our clever products, you can spend less time worrying and more time enjoying your flock’s antics and unique personalities. Add a little extra joy to your coop with ourChicken Swing or let your hens explore with theCustomisable PoleTree Chicken Perch. With Omlet by your side, you’ll have everything you need to create a happy, healthy, and endlessly entertaining home for your chickens right from the very first day.
Worried about your chicken coop rotting? It’s a valid concern that all chicken keepers have. Chicken coops are out in the elements, and can take a beating from the weather and predators. Still, chicken keepers rely on their structural integrity to keep their flocks safe – so what happens when a coop starts to rot?
Thankfully, not all chicken coops rot. Wooden coops all eventually succumb to their exposure to the environment, but there’s an alternative option. We invite you to consider: Omlet’s plastic chicken coops.
Why do wooden chicken coops rot?
Wooden chicken coops, by nature, break down over time. No matter how “weather-treated” boards, planks, and roofs may be, they will eventually decompose when exposed to the relentless elements. This is especially true in areas that receive a lot of humidity and severe weather. A constant battering from rain storms, followed by intense sunshine will leach out the weather protectants that lumber may be treated with. Wind and rain will also loosen or warp shingles on chicken coops, making coops drafty and wet. Once the weather has stripped wood of its protectants, moisture sets in, and the wood begins its rotting process.
Wood that stays damp rots the fastest. Wet wood swells and expands, which allows for more moisture to make its way in. And, when exposed to the sun, swollen wood begins to contract when it dries. Through this process of swelling and contracting, wooden chicken coops begin to lose their shape as the boards or planks warp. You may notice bowed or split wooden components on your chicken coop as a result, which will eventually break or collapse. Different types of wood experience this process at varying speeds, but most commercially bought wooden chicken coops are made from lower-quality wood with a shorter lifespan.
Once the wood of a chicken coop begins to rot, any affected boards will need to be replaced. It’s important to address any rotten pieces of a chicken coop immediately to avoid adverse health effects on your chickens. Rotten wood attracts mites and other parasites that will plague your hens, and mould or mildew is often present in damp wood. These fungi can cause respiratory problems in your chickens, and creates unsanitary conditions for both you and your flock.
How to prevent your chicken coop from rotting
Oftentimes it’s easier to build or purchase a new chicken coop from scratch than to renovate a rotten one. Repairing a rotten chicken coop is costly and time-consuming, and will likely need to be repeated throughout the lifetime of a wooden coop. There are preventative measures you can take to maintain a wooden coop to help improve its longevity, but these too take effort and resources.
Repainting, staining, or weather-treating a wooden chicken coop
To help prevent wood rot, wooden chicken coops can be repainted, stained, or weather-treated regularly – usually on an annual basis. Take great care to select products that are non-toxic to chickens, and allow for ample drying time between coats before allowing your hens back into their house. Natural products such as tung oil can be applied to wooden chicken coops to make them water-resistant, but 100% pure tung oil can be costly.
Keep your coop covered
Another method to help prevent wood rot is to keep your chickens’ coop covered. This could be through the use of a tarp, inside of a structure such as a shed or a barn, or by building a structure over the top. It may seem a bit redundant to cover a chicken coop that is meant to protect your flock from the elements, but shielding a wooden coop from sun and moisture can help preserve its components. This isn’t the most convenient option, and application of water-resistant products will still be needed on occasion to protect the exterior of your coop.
Forgo a wooden coop
By far the easiest option to avoid having to fix a rotten chicken coop is to purchase a plastic chicken coop. Omlet’s Eglu Cube chicken coop is made of heavy-duty plastic that’s weather and waterproof, so there’s no concern over rotting components. Truly a zero-maintenance solution, the Eglu Cube is ready to house a flock of up to 10 small breed hens from the time it’s assembled. Omlet’s design is meant to last a lifetime, which means no breaking down or rotting, and no application of preservatives is required to keep your Eglu Cube sanitary and functional.
Why do plastic coops not rot?
The short answer as to why plastic outlasts wood is: because plastic does not exist in nature, naturally occurring organisms are not effective at breaking it down. Wood exists in nature, so there are bacteria and other living organisms that are equipped to dispose of it. Plastic, on the other hand, has no “natural” foes.
Plastic chicken coops do not rot or lose their shape in the elements and do not require routine maintenance. They’re also much easier to clean, offer a more sanitary environment, and are able to be moved with ease compared to their wooden counterparts.
How to maintain a plastic coop
All Omlet products are designed to last, but you’ll still want to check in on your chickens’ coop routinely for any signs of wear and tear. Usually, any doors or parts that are not aligning properly are the result of the soil beneath the coop shifting, and can easily be corrected by moving the coop by a few inches as needed. Chicken run clips may also come loose during these shifts, and should be checked regularly.
Aside from checking your coop for shifting, you’ll also want to clean your coop regularly to keep it fresh. Even deep cleaning the Eglu Cube takes mere minutes, as compared to several hours of cleaning a wooden chicken coop. A pressure washer or high-powered water hose makes the process go even faster. Simply remove the droppings tray and roosting rack, spray clean, and wipe dry.
Compared to wooden chicken coops, maintaining the Eglu Cube saves countless hours each year. And, a coop that’s so easy to clean and maintain creates a much more sanitary environment for your hens, which cuts down on illness and discomfort brought about by the weather. Keeping chickens has never been easier or more enjoyable than with an Omlet coop.
Omlet and your chickens’ perfect home
A rotting chicken coop is a frustration for chicken keepers that we sought to put an end to. The result is our line of high-quality chicken coops that stand the test of time. Combine your Eglu Cube with a Walk In Chicken Run for the ultimate chicken-keeping experience. And, with accessories such as the PoleTree Customisable Chicken Perch or Caddi Chicken Treat Holder, you’ll be able to foster and enjoy watching your hens fulfil their natural behaviours.
Wondering when your brooder-raised chicks can go outside? Raising hens from chicks is an exciting endeavour, but deciding when it’s safe to transition them to the outside world can seem daunting. As with most plans, timing is key! We’ve taken the guesswork out of transitioning chicks from a brooder and into their forever coop and run. With the help of a comfortable chicken coop and the knowledge to follow, you’ll gain the confidence to know when and how to safely move your chicks outside.
At what age is it safe for chicks to go outside?
If you’ve had your chicks since they hatched, or got them shortly after, you’ll recall how soft and fluffy (and adorable) they looked. The “downy” feathers that give a chick their fuzzy appearance don’t stick around for long. You’ll soon notice your once fluffy chicks start to look a bit bedraggled. This perfectly normal (while unsightly) phenomenon is simply the process of your chicks’ adult feathers growing in. In general, you should see these adult feathers start to peek through sometime between 7 and 14 days old. There are multiple factors that will determine how quickly a chick grows their adult feathers such as:
Once you’ve noticed these adult feathers mottling your chicks’ fluff, it’s time to start slowly decreasing the temperature of the brooder. Aim to reduce their heat by 3°C each week until the brooder and the ambient temperature are the same. This gradual decrease in temperature will further aid in their transition to life outside.
By the time your chicks reach 5 weeks of age, they’ve officially entered their “teenage stage.” They may sport a convincing set of adult feathers, but like most teenagers, are not quite mature enough for the outside world! Once your “teenage” chicks reach 6-8 weeks of age, it’s time to consider letting them fly the brooder in favour of some supervised outdoor excursions.
3 essential factors to consider when taking chicks outside
To help you determine if your chicks are ready to spend any amount of time outdoors, ask yourself:
Do my chicks have all of their adult feathers?
Is the weather above 15.5°C?
Will they have a fully enclosed space?
When your chicks are fully clothed in their adult feathers, they can withstand temperatures as low as 15.5°C. Sunny days are always best for outings with your chicks, and it’s important that they stay dry in order to help them regulate their temperatures. Afully enclosed chicken run is essential for outdoor visits – especially if you’re unable to stay with them the entire time.
Temperature and climate considerations
Timing is key when moving your chicks from their brooder to their coop and run, but if your chicks are at least 6-8 weeks old, they’ll be able to tolerate cooler temperature dips. If you have achicken tractor, you may want to move it around to follow the sun to help your chicks transition from artificial heat to natural heat. And, if your area experiences frequent weather fluctuations in the colder months, you can addextreme weather protection to your chicks’ coop to ensure they stay cosy overnight when they are most vulnerable.
If you’re letting your chicks out during warmer months, araised chicken coop offers additional shelter and shade. Like adult chickens, chicks can become overheated in warm climates. Be sure to have plenty of fresh water available, and usechicken run covers to provide ample shaded areas.
Predator protection for chicks
Once your chicks are spending large stretches of time outside, it’s not always feasible to monitor them. Asafe chicken coop andpredator-resistant walk in chicken run are essential not only for housing hens, but for introducing chicks to the outdoors as well.Chicken predators are mainly active at night, but there are those that would not pass up an opportunity for chicks during daylight hours.
Consider giving your chicks plenty of places to “hide” if they get overstimulated. Simple structures such as upturned cardboard boxes with entrances cut into them, or other DIY hides are sufficient. And while your chicks might not be big enough to fully utilize chicken perches, Omlet’sFreestanding Chicken Perch has easy height adjustable perches to give your chicks an opportunity to practice their climbing skills.
Mother hens
Some chicks are hatched and raised naturally under their mothers. Hens can go “broody” (sitting on a clutch of eggs to hatch) any time of the year, but will usually attempt to hatch eggs in the spring. If your hen is broody in the winter, it’s best to discourage her by collecting eggs daily, as chicks hatched in the winter will have a harder time than those hatched in the warmer months. If your location experiences mild winters, hens can successfully keep chicks warm in below-freezing temperatures, but will need to be monitored to ensure that the chicks aren’t being left unattended for too long when the hen goes to eat or drink.
Nature will take its course when chicks are left to be raised by a hen. Hens will provide warmth to their chicks even after they hatch, making them the “brooder.” Good mother hens instinctively know how long their chicks can withstand the absence of heat, and will help their young adjust to the ambient temperature.
If your hen hatched chicks in an elevated chicken coop, consider moving both the hen and chicks to aground-level chicken coop to avoid chicks accidentally falling while following their mother. Alternatively, you can remove the hatched chicks from the hen once they are dry and place them in a brooder.
Taking chicks outside during the day
If you’ve been decreasing the temperature of the brooder, your chicks should be comfortable outside in temperatures as low as 15.5°C by the time they are 6-8 weeks old. For successful outdoor excursions with your chicks, choose days that are sunny and warm. Start with short visits to yourchicken pen and let them hop and scratch around.
Every chick is different, but expect to see hesitation or uncertainty from your chicks at first. The feeling of grass under their feet is much different from the straw, shavings, or flooring of their brooder. The outdoors hold many sights, sounds and smells that are foreign to brooder-raised chicks, so start with short visits to avoid overstimulating them. Aim for 10-15 minutes once or twice a day to help build your chicks’ confidence. Be sure to stay with your chicks during these first few visits to see how they react to their surroundings.
After several days of short visits, increase outside time by 10-15 minutes every couple of days, keeping the weather in mind. Before long, your chicks will be spending many daylight hours getting used to their permanent home. If you haven’t already, now is the perfect time to start letting your chicks out in their coop and run during their outdoor time.
Checklist for permanently moving chicks outside
Your chicks are fully feathered, have successfully completed outdoor trips to their new home, and are thriving. It’s time to make the move permanent! Make sure the following are met before moving your chicks outside full-time:
Outdoor temperatures of 15.5°C or higher, even overnight
Your chicks are at least 6-8 weeks old
If you are moving your chicks to an Eglu chicken coop, the recommended age is 12 weeks old. This gives them ample time to grow into a size that is appropriate for the design of Omlet coops. Roosting racks and coop ladders may pose a challenge to chicks under 12 weeks of age, and the wire spacing of the run was designed with larger chicks in mind.
Can chicks be outside with other hens?
If your chicks will be joining other hens, follow the same steps as you would whenintroducing new chickens to your flock. Quarantine periods need not apply to chicks you’ve raised yourself in a brooder, as you would see signs of illness during that time. However, you’ll want to introduce chicks to their future flock-mates slowly to minimise the risk of injuries. Achicken pen placed inside or next to your existing flock will allow your chicks to visit your other hens safely.
As always, hens have to establish a pecking order, regardless of how many times they’ve seen each other through a barrier. Always monitor the first encounter when introducing new members to a flock. Quickly remove any chicks that hens appear to pick on, and consider housing them or any aggressive hens separately until your chicks are bigger.
Winter considerations for letting chicks outside
Most chicken keepers will agree that spring and early summer are the best months to move their chicks outside. However, with some climates experiencing dreadful cold for over half of the year, it can make spring chick-raising slightly more difficult. In these situations, it’s best to keep your chicks in their brooder for as long as possible – ideally, until they are 12-16 weeks old. If your chicks are too large to stay in the brooder for that long, be sure to take extra precautions against the cold.Prepare your chicks’ coop and run for the winter as you normally would for adult hens, trusting that yourEglu keeps your chickens warm. Additionalweather protection for your chicken coopcan be added to provide extra insulation.
Are my chicks too cold?
The same signs ofchickens being too cold apply to chicks. Check-in on your chicks routinely and monitor for any signs of them getting too chilly, such as:
Lethargy
Huddling together
Standing with one foot off of the ground
Discolouration of combs, wattles, or feet
If you notice any of these in your chicks during cold weather, bring them inside promptly. Do not warm them up too quickly, as this can cause them to go into shock. Only use a heat lamp if their inside area is in a drafty space such as a garage or barn. Indoor temperatures above 18°C will be adequate to slowly warm up any overly-chilled chicks. Keep them inside until they are eating and drinking normally, and plan to let them back out when the outdoor temperatures stabilise.
When chicks should not go outside
There are some circumstances where chicks should not be transitioned outdoors. These include:
If your chicks are less than 6 weeks old
Sustained temperatures below freezing if your chicks are less than 12 weeks old
During heavy rains or extreme weather
If your chicks cannot easily access their coop
Always check your weather forecast to get an idea of temperatures and precipitation for the week you plan to permanently transition your chicks outdoors. If heavy rains are expected, or any other significant weather events are, postpone until conditions improve. Wet chicks, just like their adult counterparts, have a hard time regulating their body temperatures when they’re wet.
Some chicks get the hang of a chicken coop ladder quickly, while others may struggle to perfect this technique. If you notice that some of your chicks are unable to use a ladder, create a ramp to lay on top of the ladder rungs. Once they’ve gotten the hang of using their growing feet, you can remove the ramp.
Lastly, consideravian flu and its prevalence in your area. Chicks are just as much at risk for contracting avian flu as adult hens, but by usingwaterproof chicken run tarps to prevent droppings from wild birds, you can greatly minimise that risk.
Omlet’s award-winning chicken care products
Omlet aims to help you succeed in all of your chicken-keeping endeavours, including supporting you in your journey of raising hens from chicks.Large chicken coops help accommodate your growing flock, andmobile chicken coops help move your chicks even closer to you for supervision, or to get them closer to their future flock-mates. Ourhen houses make excellent first-time homes for chicks, keeping them safe and comfortable in all climates.
Wondering how to choose the right chicken coop size for your flock? Your hens’ home will need to safely and comfortably house them, and you’ll want to be sure that you get the right size for the number of chickens you have. Appeal to all of the Goldilocks in your flock with our tips and coop sizing. Find your perfect coop that’s not too big, not too small but just the right size.
The importance of the right size coop
Chicken coop size is important because hens need adequate space to roost at night and lay their eggs. Chicken coops with dedicated egg-laying areas are ideal so that your hens have a place to rest and a place to nest. This keeps your eggs clean and free from being smashed by roosting chickens.
Your chickens’ coop should be large enough for your hens to feel comfortable and safe. Keep in mind that your hens’ house will mainly be used to sleep in at night and to lay eggs. Your hens will play, forage and be active outdoors, so their coop will only need to be large enough to maneuver into roosting or laying positions comfortably.
It’s also important to not get a coop that’s too large – especially in colder climates. Hens huddle together during chilly weather, and a smaller coop will help contain their body heat within. If you know that you’re limited to keeping 3 or 4 hens, it’s best to go with a smaller chicken coop. But if you plan to keep more than 4 hens, their body heat will fill the space of a larger chicken coop.
How much space is needed per chicken
There’s no exact formula for determining how much space to give chickens, and chicken coop sizes can vary. Differentbreeds of chickens have varying space requirements, and each individual hen will have their own opinion of how close they prefer to be during roosting. As a general rule, you’ll want to provide your hens with as much space as possible. This will allow ample space for your existing flock, as well as room to grow. The phenomenon “chicken math” plagues most chicken keepers when trying to calculate coop size per chicken. This is a term used when flock raisers acquire more chickens than they originally intended to. So, it’s always a good idea to get the biggest chicken coop you can for your space, should chicken math creep up on you.
Elements to consider when deciding the perfect size chicken coop
Before settling on your chicken coop size, make sure you consider the following:
Your city or homeowners association’s (HOA) size requirements or restrictions
How many hens you’d like to keep
Your garden’s space
You’ll also want to consider if you want amobile chicken coop or one that you’ll keep in a permanent location. Mobile chicken coops are great for letting your chickens help mow your lawn, and are particularly helpful in areas that experience severe weather events. They can be moved to safety quickly and easily – while your flock remains safely inside.
Chicken coops placed in a permanent location will need achicken run orchicken fencing to be attached to or placed inside. This will allow your hens time outside of their house in safety, and keep them from areas you’d rather not have them pecking around in.
Choosing your chicken coop comes down to personal preference. Most chicken keepers would agree that having achicken coop that’s easy to clean is at the top of their list when it comes to selecting a chicken coop. Your ideal chicken coop size should be one that fits your needs and fits your flock inside.
Finding the right coop for your flock size
If you’ve already decided on which breeds of chickens you’re going to keep, it’s time to determine how many you want to have. If your city or HOA has restrictions on how many hens you can have at any given time, then the decision has been made for you. There are different sizes of chicken coops depending on how many hens you will be housing.
Eglu Pro provides the most amount of space. This extra-large chicken coop is perfect for:
Flocks of up to 15 chickens
Chicken keepers wanting to grow their flocks
Both mobile and permanent setups
Larger flocks can be also housed in one of our large chicken coops. The Eglu Cube is recommended for:
Flocks of up to 10 small breed chickens
Chicken keepers with flock size restrictions
Bigger flocks on smaller lots
There are still other different types of chicken coops to consider. Those with small flock restrictions can easily choose from our chicken coops that house 2-4 chickens:
Can be converted into a mobile chicken coop easily with the addition of handles and wheels
How to increase the size of your current chicken coop
At Omlet, we have firsthand experience with chicken math. Expanding your flock’s space will likely be an ongoing endeavour. After all, unless your city or HOA says otherwise, you can never have too many chickens.
Ourwalk in chicken runs can be extended indefinitely to accommodate your growing flock. Simply choose your ideal dimensions using our online configurator, and attach the correspondingrun extension to your existing walk in run. Our attached chicken coop runs can also be extended to up to 12 feet.
Add extra chicken coops for sleeping and laying space within your growing run. The addition of any of our Eglu chicken coops will offer lodging to your growing flock. Create different areas of your chickens’ area withchicken run partitions, which can separate your flock by breed, size, or temperament.
First-time chicken-keeping tips
Ready toget started keeping chickens? Once you’ve determined your coop size, here are some other things to check off before making the poultry plunge:
Research what type of diet you will feed your hens. This could be regular laying feed, organic, non-GMO, or free-range pellets or crumbles.
Decide if you want tostart out with hens or chicks. There are pros and cons to each, but chicks will require additional equipment and care for the first 6-12 weeks of their lives.
Prepare your yard and measure where you want your chicken flock’s home to be. This can help you determine if you would prefer a mobile or permanent setup.
The perfect size with Omlet
Choosing the chicken coop size that’s right for you is a big decision. But with Omlet, you can be sure that no matter the size of the coop, you’ll be getting a hen house that’s been designed to last a lifetime. All of our chicken coops are built from the same heavy-duty, rot-free materials. Add some finishing touches with a Freestanding Chicken Perch or the Chicken Swingto help your flock enjoy their space to the fullest.
Have you considered reinforcing your flock’s setup and thought: are automatic chicken coop doors predator resistant? The short answer is yes, but not all automatic chicken coop doors are created equal. Adding an electronic door to your hens’ house can help prevent predator break-ins – if you choose the right one. We’ll highlight the distinctions between the types of automatic chicken coop doors, and why they make a difference in protecting your flock from unwanted visitors.
Why your chicken coop needs an automatic door
Automatic chicken coop doors offer an extra layer of security between your flock and thechicken predators that will try to break into their chicken coop. The doors can be programmed to close your flock in for the night, even while you’re away. In the morning, automatic chicken coop doors can let your hens out for you so that you don’t have to rise as early as your flock. Other benefits of an automatic chicken coop door include:
Increased coop security to prevent accidental door openings
Technology has permeated the chicken-keeping world, making it more convenient than ever to care for your chickens. Automatic chicken coop doors are your first step in creating a smart chicken coop, allowing you more freedom and offering more security to your flock. But choosing the right automatic chicken coop door is important.
What makes an automatic chicken coop door predator resistant?
Automatic chicken coop doors are considered predator resistant because theyhave a motorized opening and closing method that make your chicken coop or chicken tractor more secure. Once closed, the gears that move the door hold it closed, making it more difficult to open from the outside. Good automatic chicken coop doors should create a seal once they’re closed, which also improves coop insulation.
Most automatic chicken coop doors open vertically. This poses two main issues:
Vertically opening doors can be pried and pushed up by predators relatively easily. They use their paws and claws to create a gap along the bottom of the door, and are then able to push the door up and slip through.
A coop door malfunction can cause the door to fall on one of your chickens, which can pin or seriously injure them.
Horizontally closing chicken coop doors are much safer for your hens. They’re harder for predators to pry open, and since they don’t rely on gravity or pulleys, won’t accidentally fall on your chickens.
Omlet’s predator-resistant Autodoor for hen houses
Omlet’s automatic chicken coop door(dubbed the “Autodoor”), was designed to give chicken keepers more freedom and peace of mind. The Autodoor tucks hens in for the night even when their owners aren’t home – ensuring they’re safe from predators that move in the cover of darkness.
The universal fit of the Autodoor allows it to be attached to any chicken coop or chicken run. This highly versatile design allows the Autodoor to be installed on virtually any setup. Install on an existing chicken wire run, wooden chicken coop, or on one of Omlet’s chicken runs by choosing from the appropriate installation kits. The Autodoor also integrates seamlessly with theEglu Cube, without needing to remove the existing door.
The Autodoor is made from heavy-duty materials that are designed to last a lifetime, and opens on a horizontal coil mechanism. Once closed, the Autodoor keeps your hens safe inside their home from both predators and the elements.
Program the Autodoor with either a schedule based on light or a specific time. Most chicken predators are most active at dusk and shortly before dawn. The Autodoor can keep your chickens safely closed in their coop until the desired daylight or time has been reached.
Chicken predators and the Autodoor
All of our chicken runs have anti-dig skirting to help prevent predators from tunnelling in. And, the lower panels of theEglu Cube’s attached run feature a tighter mesh to prevent predators from reaching through. Combined with the Autodoor, the Eglu Cube and its attached run is the best setup when creating a predator-resistant chicken coop, ensuring your hens stay as safe as possible from predators.
4 additional ways to protect your flock from predators
In addition to having a coop concierge to close your chickens in at night, you can take precautions to keep predators at bay. Make sure you have astrong chicken coop and asturdy chicken run to house your flock. Additional considerations to make your setup predator-resistant:
Install motion lights around the perimeter of your chickens’ space to scare off approaching animals
Pick up any leftover chicken feed at the end of the day to avoid attracting rodents that may draw predators in
Keep chicken feed in airtight containers
Install hardware cloth around the bottom 4 feet of your chickens’ run
Protecting your flock with Omlet
Omlet’s chicken tractors and large chicken coops can be reinforced with the Autodoor to make them more predator-resistant. All of our hen houses have been designed with safety and functionality in mind. Have peace of mind while you sleep in, knowing that the Autodoor is taking care of your flock around the clock.
Rose is a chicken fanatic who’s been building her poultry empire since the tender age of thirteen. As an adult, she now turns her extensive poultry knowledge into how-to’s and guides for other chicken lovers, both young and old. Today, Rose owns and runs littleonionfarm.org, where she writes about self-sufficient lifestyles and shares her life on her Pittsburgh, PA, USA homestead.
Many people consider chickens to be the “gateway drug” to self-sufficient living, and for good reason. Chickens are easy to keep, easy to acquire, inexpensive (at least as far as livestock goes), and come with a variety of benefits. It stands to reason, then, that most chicken owners eventually get the itch to expand their flock once it’s established. This well-known phenomenon has come to be fondly known as “chicken math.”
Of course, some backyard chicken owners – myself included – don’t just stop with chicken math. Eventually, it becomes garden math, quail math, duck math, and then you end up with a homestead (I have no regrets).
Anyway, why would you want to expand your chicken flock? What kinds of benefits do chickens provide that would make you want more? And what can you do to prepare for when chicken math inevitably strikes?
Why chicken math?
Why do so many people end up buying chickens, only to end up expanding their flock later? I usually see a few recurring culprits that people fall victim to. The one that got me was the huge variety of chicken breeds available for us to enjoy. Chickens come in just about every shape, size, and color imaginable, and different breeds often have different personalities, too. My Golden Penciled Hamburg hen, for example, is on the flighty side – she’s not a cuddler – but she loves scratch grains with a passion, and has a particular appreciation for my Poppy Peck Toy.
Of course, the same things that make chickens a “gateway drug” also make expanding your flock easy – sometimes too easy. I started with a small flock of just eight hens when I was a child, which quickly became twelve hens… which then became a second chicken coop, and fifteen more chickens, and a few roosters… (you get the picture).
That being said, chicken math isn’t always a bad thing, as long as your birds (and you) continue to be happy and healthy. Your flock can become quite large before it becomes difficult, time-consuming, or expensive to care for. The cost of owning chickens does go up somewhat as you get more – especially food and housing costs – but I find that, even with a large flock, chickens’ cost of care exists in a “sweet spot” that makes them attractive for both experienced homesteaders and newbies alike.
Finally – on a more specific note – one of the most common reasons I see fellow chicken keepers expanding their flocks is because they want colourful eggs (or more eggs in general). While each hen will only lay one colour egg her entire life, different hens can lay eggs in chocolate brown, medium brown, light tan, bright blue, sage green, dark olive, and, of course, white. Some hens even lay eggs verging on pale pink or dusky purple, but the exact colour is heavily dependent upon each hen’s breed.
Chicken benefits (besides eggs)
The usual backyard chicken flock provides a few obvious benefits, the main two being eggs and meat. Many chicken keepers also enjoy the companionship and entertainment that their chickens offer. However, that’s not all there is to chickens – not by a long shot!
My main chicken coop is an Eglu Cube with wheels, so I move it around my yard to keep my coop cleaning duties minimal. However, I make sure to save any droppings from the enclosed portion to use for compost. Chicken droppings make a fantastic garden fertilizer, and even if you don’t plan to use them yourself, I promise that a local gardener will be thrilled to take any extras off your hands. Plus, with mobile chicken coops like the Eglu Cube, any manure that you don’t collect will fertilize your lawn. Your grass will grow back greener and fuller than it was before in places where your chickens have been!
Another lesser-known benefit to owning chickens is reducing your food waste. I care deeply about our planet, but even I end up with food that spoils on the counter or in the fridge from time to time. When that happens, my chickens happily break it down for me. Not only does it stay out of a landfill this way, but it adds variety to their diets and gives them enrichment, too.
Finally, chickens provide important pest and weed control to your backyard, especially if you allow them to free range. While a flock of chickens can’t mow your lawn on its own like a goat or cow might, most chickens will happily eat any critters they find in it, including ticks, grubs, earthworms, crickets, and sometimes even mice or snakes!
How to mitigate chicken math
What can you do to prepare for chicken math before it strikes? The main way is by buying a chicken coop that’s larger than you think you’ll need. For example, if you think you’ll only want four laying hens – a flock that would be small enough for an Eglu Go – consider upgrading to the Eglu Cube instead. This gives you room to add a few more in the future. At some point, you may still need to get a second coop (I know I did), but a larger coop will at least prevent that for as long as possible.
Another way to mitigate the effects of chicken math is by doing thorough research before you establish your first flock. I know it’s tempting to dive right in and order chicks as soon as possible, but I highly recommend taking a while to research breeds, coops, risks, and future plans before you get started. You can also avoid temptation by staying away from feed stores and poultry swap meets, but I find (from experience) that it’s smarter to plan for the inevitable instead of trying to prevent it!
Finally, make sure you’re familiar with any local regulations on flock size and composition in your municipality. I’m not familiar with other countries’ regulations but in the US state of Pennsylvania where I live, most livestock regulations are left up to the county to decide. However, townships and cities sometimes have their own rules for you to follow, too.
Final thoughts
Were you familiar with the concept of chicken math before reading this guide? More importantly, are you prepared for the moment chicken math inevitably strikes your flock? I’m a huge fan of Omlet’s Eglu Cube for newbie backyard chicken owners, so I never hesitate to recommend it – it’s the perfect size and configuration for a good-sized starter flock.
Wooden chicken coops have historically been the most common type of hen houses, but there are several reasons to avoid wooden chicken coops. Many types of wood are inexpensive and help lower the cost of a chicken coop. But, lower costs also mean lower quality. Over time, these cheaply made hen houses need replacing, which in turn costs you more money over the years. Thankfully, there’s an alternative to rickety, cheap, and hard-to-maintain wooden chicken coops. Don’t get caught in the vicious cycle of replacing worn-out wooden coops. Instead, invest in a plastic chicken coop that’s built to last a lifetime.
10 reasons to avoid wooden chicken coops
We’ve outlined the most common concerns when it comes to wooden chicken coops. And, when compared to plastic, there’s a clear winner.
1. Wooden chicken coops rot
Not all chicken coops are designed to last. Wooden chicken coops, while less expensive to purchase initially, will eventually rot. Wood is a natural material that’s subject to the elements, whereasplastic chicken coops will never rot and don’t decompose the way wooden chicken coops do.Omlet’s chicken coops are designed to last a lifetime.
2. Wooden chicken coops are hard to clean
Have you ever scraped the inside of a wooden chicken coop with a putty knife or other flat-edged cleaning device? If you have, you’re not likely to forget it easily, and if you haven’t, you’ll want to spare yourself the experience. Removing droppings and thoroughly cleaning a wooden chicken coop is a very difficult task. Wood will rot faster if cleaned with a pressure washer, and takes hours to dry after getting wet.
Omlet’s plastic chicken coops are incredibly easy to clean. All of the interior pieces can be removed for easy cleaning, and the entire chicken coop is designed to be pressure washed or wiped clean. Get a sparkling clean chicken coop in just minutes with very little drying time.
3. Wooden chicken coops are costly to repair
Wooden chicken coops start to deteriorate as soon as they are exposed to the elements. Their roofs will need shingles replaced, as will rotted or warped boards. Chicken wire or hardware cloth will come loose from staples anchored in flimsy wood and will need to be reinforced.A lot of routine maintenance goes into keeping a wooden chicken coop structurally sound.
Plastic chicken coops require no maintenance or upkeep, making them an excellent addition to any backyard.Omlet’s chicken coops are easy to assemble, and don’t require replacement parts.
4. Wooden chicken coops aren’t predator-resistant
Chicken predators are something that all flock raisers will encounter at some point. One of the most common and conniving of these predators is foxes. Wooden chicken coops are no match for the crafty methods of these masked chicken bandits. foxes are notorious for reaching through openings, and gnawing or pushing their way into hen houses and chicken runs.
While wood weakens over time, plastic chicken coops are far more resilient and will hold up over many, many years. Foxes in particular will exploit any weak spots in your chicken coop or run, so the best way to make your chicken coop fox-resistant is to invest in a strong setup.
Add another layer of security to your hens’ home with an automaticchicken coop door. Omlet’s Autodoor opens and closes on a horizontal gear mechanism that is extremely difficult for predators to pry open. And, with the light and time settings, your flock will be safely closed in each evening before predators are at their most active.
Wood is porous and gets saturated when it rains. Not only does this lead to rotting, but it also creates breeding grounds for mould and mildew. Spores from these fungi can spell respiratory problems for your flock, and create very unpleasant living conditions.
Omlet’s coops are waterproof and won’t mould, mildew, or rot as a result of rain. And, additional chicken run weather protection will keep your flock nice and dry on rainy days in their run.Chickens can enjoy rainy days when they’re covered and have a dry coop to roost in.
Omlet uses twin-wall insulation methods to ensure ultimate comfort. Our line of Eglu chicken coopshelp keep your hens cool in the summer and warm in the winter.
7. Wooden chicken coops have a short lifespan
Replacing your chickens’ coop every few years sounds like a costly endeavour, right? But it’s exactly what you’ll be doing with wooden chicken coops.The best chicken coops are designed to last a lifetime, and can grow with you and your flock.
Omlet’s chicken coops aren’t just long-lasting but have attached runs that can be extended to up to 12 feet long. They also integrate seamlessly with our heavy-dutywalk in chicken runs, which can be extended indefinitely.
8. Wooden chicken coops let mites thrive
Mites are a nightmare for chicken keepers and hens alike. They make your flock feel miserable, and are hard to eradicate, as they thrive in the moist, dark crevices of wooden panels. Mites are easier to prevent than to treat, and one of the best ways to avoid mites in the first place is to create an inhospitable environment for them.
Avoid mites by investing in a plastic chicken coop. Regular pressure washes or wipe-downs will prevent the presence of these parasites and give your flock a much more hygienic environment.
9. Wooden chicken coops are hard to move
There’s a sense of finality when you set a wooden chicken coop in its place. Once erected, a wooden coop cannot be moved easily. Whether it be from rot or weight from being rained on, wooden chicken coops are not designed to be relocated.
Some wooden chicken coops claim to be chicken tractors (mobile chicken coops), but due to their deterioration in the elements, they become increasingly difficult to move.
Ourmobile chicken coops are designed to be moved as often as you’d like, and can be moved with ease by just one person. All of our coops can be customised with wheels and handles to make moving them a breeze. Their structural integrity holds up against the elements, so you’ll never need to worry about them falling apart.
10. Wooden chicken coops are flimsy
Wooden chicken coops are no match for wild weather events or large predators like foxes or badgers. During storms, roofs can be blown off and boards loosened by battering wind and rain. Predators can easily push through chicken wire or dig under runs.
Wooden chicken coops are tough to clean and can harbour stubborn messes.
Moisture and bacteria easily seep into wood, creating health risks for your flock.
Wooden coops attract pests like mites and rodents, making maintenance a constant battle.
Over time, wood deteriorates, leading to costly repairs and replacements.
Choosing a plastic chicken coop saves you time, effort, and keeps your chickens healthier.
Omlet’s Eglu Cube chicken coop
The winner is clear: the Eglu Cube chicken coop, designed by Omlet. But don’t just take our word for it, see why thousands of chicken keepers across the globe trust the Eglu Cube with their flocks. Plus, the Eglu Cube is backed by our 10 year worry-free warranty, and a 180 day money back guarantee. When you choose the Eglu Cube, you’re investing in the only chicken coop you’ll ever need to buy.
Keeping chickens in gardens has been rising in popularity over the past several years. Once viewed as farm animals, chickens are now gracing the garden of many families living in suburban areas. If you’ve been curious about starting your own flock of chickens, we’re here to equip you with knowledge and products to make keeping chickens a success.
4 reasons to keep garden chickens
Keeping garden chickens is a great hobby that can be shared with the entire family. The relationship between hens and humans is very symbiotic. Chickens are prey animals that need protection from predators, and when provided with care and shelter can thrive in virtually any setting. Hens offer humans companionship,garden pest control, and of course – fresh eggs.
Having chickens in your garden will:
Provide your family with fresh eggs year-round
Reduce stress through more screen-free time spent outdoors
Be a unique pet experience for you and your family
Teach the value of work and responsibility to children
Garden chicken keepers enjoy watching their flock simply peck the ground and go about their daily routine. You’ll be amazed by how even a small flock of hens can decimate the population of pests like ants, spiders and snails. All that added protein gets converted into delicious and nutritious eggs for you to collect from your chickens’ coop daily.
How to choose your garden chicken coop
Chicken coops are the most important component of owning hens. Your hens’ home will need to shelter them from the elements and predators, offer a safe place to lay their eggs, and keep them comfortable in all seasons. And as their caretaker, you’ll be spending time cleaning and maintaining your flock’s coop. Your choice of a chicken coop can be the difference between garden chicken keeping being an either enjoyable hobby or a dreaded chore.
How much time you’d like to spend cleaning and maintaining your coop
The amount of time you’d be willing to spend assembling a chicken coop
Find your perfect garden coop with Omlet
Omlet chicken coops: what garden chicken keepers’ dreams are made of. Truly incrediblehen houses, our coops keep your flock healthy and happy, while cutting down on your workload. Omlet chicken coops:
Flocks forage and roam by nature, but having agarden chicken run will not only help keep your hens close to home, but also away from potential danger. Fromplants toxic to chickens to neighbourhood dogs and cats, containing your chickens in a run is the best way to keep them out of harm’s way.
When choosing a run for your chickens, aim to offer the most space possible. Omlet’swalk in chicken runs provide full protection from predators with roof panels and anti-dig skirting. Our runs can also be extended as your flock grows to give them plenty of room.
If a chicken run isn’t feasible for your space,chicken fencing is another option to contain your flock. Our flexible chicken fencing can be adjusted to any shape and can be attached to a wall or with repositionable posts. And, with easy-access gates, you can enter and tend to your flock.
The best garden chicken breeds
The best garden chicken breeds are those that are able to best tolerate your climate and lifestyle.Chicken breeds vary widely, and have tendencies such as temperament and behaviour specific to their breed. Breeds to consider keeping in your garden include:
Bantam varieties (miniature versions of chicken breeds)
Large breeds such asBrahmas orJersey Giants can also make good choices in a garden chicken flock as they are too heavy to fly long distances and are resilient in most climates.
Once you’ve decided on the breeds you’re interested in keeping, you’ll need to seewhere you can find your chickens. You can find a local breeder to help you obtain your chicks or hens. Chicks can also be obtained from most feed stores in the spring and summer months.
Tips for caring for & protecting your new flock
Keeping garden chickens healthy and happy can be accomplished bycaring for your hens on a daily basis, and providing them with protection, entertainment, and enrichment. Thecare that your chickens will need includes:
Feeding them a high-quality layer pellet diet
Keeping fresh water available at all times
Cleaning their coop thoroughly several times a week
Protection from predators
It’s also good to offer opportunities for your hens to entertain themselves in an enriching way. Our line ofchicken toys and accessories will ensure that your flock is never bored. Encouraging your flock to be active is particularly important during the colder months.
Seasonal changes are easy to prepare for with Omlet. Ourchickenweather protection offers shade from the sun, shelter from wind, rain, and snow, and helps prevent hazardous living conditions for your garden chickens. In sub-freezing weather,extreme temperature jackets for chicken coops can be added to your hens’ home for additional insulation.
How Omlet garden coops defend against predators
Omlet’s chicken runs all come standard with anti-dig skirting to help prevent predators that aim to tunnel into the run.
Installing anautomatic chicken coop door adds an additional layer of security to your coop. The horizontal opening and closing mechanism is extremely difficult for prying paws to open. Securing your hens in their chicken coop each night will bring them a better night’s rest – peace of mind for you.
What to avoid when garden chicken keeping
Some additional thoughts to keep in mind:
Never leave free-roaming hens unsupervised
Don’t forget to find a chicken sitter if you’ll be away from home for more than a day or two
Slowly introduce other pets like dogs or cats to your hens to prevent startling or injuring them
Select a vet that treats poultry ahead of time in the event of illness or emergencies
Above all, don’t take the plunge into poultry before you’ve assembled your chickens’ coop and run and become familiar with using them. Omlet’s chicken coops and runs come with everything you need to safely keep chickens as soon as our products have been assembled – so be sure to follow our step-by-step instructions to completion before obtaining your hens.
Garden chicken keeping with Omlet
Raising garden chickens is a rewarding journey – start strong with products that will last a lifetime. Our chicken coops protect thousands of flocks in gardens all over the world. Customize your garden or chicken run with unique products like theChicken Swing andPoleTree Customisable Chicken Perch for a truly one-of-a-kind experience. At Omlet, we’ve created the best products to make keeping chickens in your garden not only a reality but a success.
There’s a new dilemma that chicken keepers are faced with: whether to invest in a plastic or wooden chicken coop. Wooden chicken coops are common, but plastic coops are rising in popularity due to their low maintenance and ease of cleaning. Maintaining and cleaning wooden chicken coops is costly and time-consuming – but Omlet’s plastic chicken coops are saving chicken keepers both time and money.
Comparing wooden vs. plastic chicken coops
There are some major differences between wooden and plastic chicken coops. Ultimately, it comes down to which type of coop best fits your budget and lifestyle, but we’ll help you decide how to choose your chicken coop with a visual list of pros and cons for each.
Wooden chicken coops
Pros:
Lower upfront costs
Readily available at many chicken supply stores
Traditional look
Cons:
Difficult to clean thoroughly
Absorbs moisture, which can lead to mould or mildew
Porous, grooved surfaces attracts and harbours mites
Drafty (particularly dangerous in the winter months)
Requires maintenance such as repainting and roof or board repair and replacement
Hardware cloth or chicken wire is stapled into the wood, which loosens over time, making it easier for predators to push their way in
Twin-insulated to keep your chickens cool in summer and warm in winter
Draft-free ventilation that keeps humidity levels down inside the coop
Inhospitable environment for mites to thrive
Zero maintenance required
Doors that are easy for humans to open, but difficult for predators to infiltrate
Attached chicken runs are made from welded wire mesh connected by heavy-duty clips
Bold, modern look
Easily moved with added wheels and handles
An all-in-one chicken coop, designed to last a lifetime
Cons:
More upfront cost
Moving your coop
At some point, you may want to relocate your chicken coop. It may be to a new spot in your garden, out of necessity for safety, or when moving to a new home. Wooden chicken coops are difficult to move once they’ve been constructed, and often are too heavy to move efficiently without taking them apart. Commercially bought wooden coops are often constructed from tongue and groove planks, which do not hold up when moved.
Omlet’s mobile chicken coops can be moved easily by one person with the use of integrated handles and wheels. This is particularly helpful in areas that experience severe weather such as tornadoes, hurricanes, or flash flooding when notice is often in short supply.
Chicken tractors enable you to give your chickens a new patch of grass to forage through, or relocate your flock should the need arise. Simply engage the wheels, then use the handles to push or pull your hens’ home to a new spot. Disengage the wheels, and your hens are ready to peck their way through their new turf – without ever having to leave their run!
Customizing your chicken coop
Plastic chicken coops offer customization options that wooden chicken coops simply can’t. Additions of walk in chicken runs can expand your flock’s space and can continue to expand along with the number of chickens you have. You can also automate your chickens’ schedule by installing an automatic chicken coop door.
These accessories can be added to a wooden chicken coop, but the structural integrity of wooden coops becomes compromised after time in the elements, making them a less-than-perfect match. A plastic chicken coop designed to last a lifetime is not limited to a short timeframe for upgrades and customization.
Coop cleanliness
It’s important to regularly clean your chicken coop – no matter the material. Chickens themselves don’t smell, but their droppings do! Coops that aren’t clean attract flies and other pests that affect both you and your flock, and harbour bacteria that can bring harm to your flock.
Wooden coops need to be washed, but wood is porous and difficult to clean. Droppings usually need to be scraped off with a putty knife, with surfaces then sprayed with a chicken-safe disinfectant. Because wood absorbs moisture, you’ll need to allow ample drying time for any products or water applied to a wooden coop. Once dry, wooden coops need to be treated for mites after each cleaning with chicken-safe antiparasitic sprays or powders.
Plastic chicken coops can be deep cleaned quickly and easily. Omlet’s plastic chicken coops have removable roosting racks and droppings trays that can be pressure washed along with the entire interior. No antiparasitic treatment is needed after a plastic chicken coop has been pressure washed and wiped clean.
Predator resistance
Chicken predators are a danger that every flock raiser will encounter at some point. The sounds your hens make attract predators, as do the rodents that try to steal a snack from your chicken feeders.
Wooden chicken coops usually have hardware cloth stapled around the inside of any openings. However, wood gets weaker the longer it stays in the elements, so the staples are easily pushed out of the wood from an outside force. Hardware cloth or chicken wire also rusts and weakens over time, making it prone to breaking under stress. Some wooden coops also have tops that open on hinges for you to access your hens or eggs. The problem is that predators (especially crafty ones like racoons or foxes) can lift any unlatched openings to access your hens themselves.
Omlet’s plastic hen houses have latching doors that are difficult for predators to open. They also have solid, heavy-duty walls with no wire to push in or break. Plastic is more resilient to the elements, so there’s no concern for warping or weakening over time. The attached chicken runs that are available with all of Omlet’s chicken coops are made of welded wire mesh that is treated against the elements. This heavy-duty wire does not weaken in the elements, with the panels being held together by our ingenious weather-resistant clips.
Insulation & performance in extreme weather
Chickens thrive in many environments, but the more assistance they get to regulate their temperatures, the better they weather the seasons. Heat stroke and frostbite can easily plague chickens that are kept in under-insulated coops. Depending on your climate, your main concern will be to either ensure your hens don’t get too hot in the summer or have chilly chickens in the winter.
Wooden coops need additional layers to offer sufficient insulation. Adding another wall with insulation in between can achieve this effect, taking care to allow for ventilation. Ventilation is key when keeping a chicken coop at a comfortable temperature and humidity level. Too much ventilation will allow insulated air to escape, making the coop too hot or too cold. On the other hand, too little ventilation causes moisture to build up, creating a damp, stuffy, overly warm coop.
Superior ventilation and insulation is found in Omlet’s plastic chicken coops. The twin walls trap a pocket of air (the best insulator) around the coop to help keep the temperature at a comfortable level. Mindfully placed ventilation points allow for just the right amount of air to circulate even when the coop door is closed. This reduces the humidity level in the coop and allows for fresh air to circulate.
The elements are not kind to wooden chicken coops. Harsh UV rays, soaking rains, heavy snow, and high winds all wreak havoc on traditional chicken coops. Wooden chicken coops maintain their integrity for the first few seasons, but soon you’ll notice the beginning stages of the deterioration process.
Rotting or weakening wood, faded paint, and missing roof shingles are usually the first elements of a wooden coop that fall prey to the weather. Replacing any weak planks and repainting or retreating boards with weather-resistant paint is an annual affair. Shingles can be reapplied to roofs, but it’s a sticky and time-consuming task!
Choosing a chicken coop that fits your budget is important, so keep in mind the long-term expenses that a wooden chicken coop will inevitably incur. A plastic chicken coop may cost more in the beginning but will save countless hours and dollars over the years, as they do not require maintenance.
Additionally, Omlet chicken coops are strong. So strong in fact, that real-life Omlet customers have shared stories of their coops surviving hurricanes, tornadoes, falling trees – and even the full weight of a bear! Heavy-duty plastic lasts for years, and you’ll never need to worry about rotting or weakening parts. The only maintenance needed on an Omlet chicken coop is regular cleaning and ensuring that the ground beneath the coop has not shifted to create gaps or misaligned doors.
Ease of building
Building a wooden chicken coop from scratch is a daunting task! Like any carpentry work, it must be squared off, level, and properly constructed. The supply list alone will have you making several trips to various hardware stores! How nice would it be to have everything come inside of a box, requiring only a screwdriver to assemble?
Deciding to buy or build a chicken coop relies heavily on your experience. Chicken coops (or any other animal enclosure) are not a project for beginners! Your flock’s comfort and safety depend on the design of their coop.
Thankfully, assembling an Omlet chicken coop can be done in just a few hours. Our step-by-step videos make assembly easy and enjoyable. All you’ll need is a level space and a screwdriver. Your children can even help build an Omlet coop, which will help include them in your family’s flock-raising journey.
Is a plastic or wooden chicken coop best for me & my flock?
Maybe you’re already the owner of a wooden chicken coop and thinking about upgrading to a plastic coop. Is it really worth all of the fuss? Check with your hens to see! Are your chickens happy in their wooden coop?
Unless you are meticulous with repairs and maintenance on a wooden chicken coop, your chickens would probably be happier in a plastic coop. The increased security, ventilation, insulation, and ease of cleaning that plastic coops have to offer make keeping chickens much more enjoyable. So ask yourself: are you happy with your chickens’ wooden coop? If the answer is “no”, then it’s time to upgrade to plastic!
Omlet’s easy maintenance plastic chicken coops
Omlet has a variety of high-quality plastic chicken coops to fit your flock and family’s needs. From the original Eglu Go, to our largest coop yet – the Eglu Cube, there’s a coop for everyone.
Reasons to choose a chicken coop from Omlet:
Easy to clean, move, and customize
Superior safety, insulation, and ventilation
Weatherproof and predator-resistant
Excellent customer service
Backed by a 2-year warranty
Thousands of chicken keepers have experienced the ease of owning hens with an Omlet chicken coop. In fact, you can reach out to a local Omlet ambassador to ask them about their experience, and see their setup for yourself.
See the Omlet difference
We’ve invented coops that bring joy to chicken ownership. Keeping chickens shouldn’t be a chore – it should be a relaxing and rewarding hobby. Once you’ve decided on an Omlet chicken coop, explore our other products that are designed to complement to your coop, such as:
As always, our team of experts are ready to help you decide which coop is right for you and your flock, and to support your entire chicken-keeping journey.
Around the 1930s, battery cages, or small wire frame cages, were introduced as a way to increase egg production from hens on an industrial scale. Female chickens are placed in these cages from the time they hatch until full egg-laying maturity, which is typically considered 18 months.
While many countries including the UK have banned or are phasing out the use of conventional battery cages, there are still many countries such as the U.S., where they remain legal. Because ex-battery henshave a lower egg production, many groups look to rescue them to provide a new home for these still full-of-life (and eggs) birds.
Most ex-battery hens require a little bit more attention and care during the first few months as they have to adjust to a new (and much better) life than what they previously knew. But just like any animal rescue, with some patience and extra love, they will quickly settle into their new routine and enjoyment of life. Here is how you can create the perfect setup for your ex-battery hens.
The Omlet Eglu Cube Chicken Coop
Ex-battery hens only know the confines of a small cage for their entire life until rehomed. So when creating a new space for them, consider their immediate needs of security, safety, and exploration. The Omlet Eglu Cube Chicken Coop is the perfect choice as it not only offers all of that, but is also super easy to assemble, carefully designed, and virtually maintenance-free.
In Rosie’s Chicken Keeping Adventure blog series, she shared her story of being a first-time owner of ex-battery hens. After rescuing 5 ex-caged hens of her own, Rosie decided on the Eglu Cube Chicken Coop as the new home for her flock because of the peace of mind it provided. Here are some of the features that made this product priceless for her hens, as well as herself.
Predator resistant: Unlike free-range hens who have known life outside of a cage, ex-battery hens take a little more time adjusting to their new, more spacious, surroundings. As a result, it’s important that for whatever chicken coop you decide on, it is constructed with security and strength to keep out unwanted visitors.
The Eglu Cube is made with durable and predator-resistant hard plastic which is placed on a heavy-duty steel frame. Eglu Coops and runs have been keeping hens all across the globe safe for over 15 years and your ex-battery hens will be no exception.
Plenty of space: Imagine living in a tiny studio apartment for your whole life only to be moved to a luxurious and spacious mansion….it’s a similar feeling for ex-battery hens who are rehomed to an Eglu Cube. At Omlet, our goal is to make chicken keeping simple and fun with practicality and efficiency in mind. Plus, we know just how important space and exploration is to chickens.
The run that comes with the Eglu Cube is expertly designed to create a full-on henertaining playground for your chickens. And thanks to its modular design, you can very easily expand your run and walk-in chicken run that allow you to grow with your flock.
Private nesting box: Battery-caged hens are stripped of many animal privileges, not the least of which is the ability to nest, or lay eggs, in private. Nesting is a natural instinct for chickens and something that ex-battery hens will quickly embrace once rehomed in an Eglu Cube.
The Eglu Cube’s private nesting box comfortably fits up to 3 egg-laying hens at a time. Collecting fresh eggs from your coop is definitely one of the greatest perks of being a chicken keeper, but for ex-battery hens, it’s literally a new leash on life that they are given with this space.
More Omlet chicken essentials
Once your ex-battery hens have adjusted to their new life in their Eglu Cube home, you can really start to customise their space. We have endless options for you to create the ultimate hen home and we know first-hand that ex-battery hens will love them all.
Omlet Chicken Fencing: No matter the size of your garden, you can still increase the exploring space for your hens. Chicken fencing is the perfect way to allow your chickens free roam in the garden with risk of escape. Our chicken fencing is not only easy to install with a tangle-free design, but the dark colour blends in neatly with your garden.
Chicken PoleTree: Now the fun begins! Our fully customisable PoleTree is truly any chicken’s dream. Create a fun and engaging communal playground for your entire flock as your hens enjoy the stimulation and ability to check out new heights. You can install the tree in any walk-in chicken enclosure and know that it is sturdy and strong to hold several chickens at once. And don’t forget to add a chicken swing so your feathered friends can truly make the most of their new lifestyle.
Automatic Chicken Coop Door: Our priority with our chicken products is safety with simplicity and that is precisely why we created the Universal Automatic Chicken Coop Door. Compatible with any wooden coop as well as the Eglu Cube, this is the safest and most convenient way to let your chickens in and out of the coop. Battery-powered with the option to operate on a timer or sensor, this door will not only guarantee all hens are home safe at night, but it will also keep your chickens protected from any weather elements with the added insulation of a closed door – even if you’re not yet home.
How you can help ex-battery hens
The number one way you can help ex-battery hens is by adopting them and giving them a new home of their own! But how do you do that? The BHWT (British Hen Welfare Trust) are committed to advocating for these hens and giving them a second chance at life. Their mission is simple – rescue and rehome ex-battery hens as pets.
There is no better reward than to give an ex-battery hen a new home – for you and your new feathered friend. With an easy set-up like the Omlet Eglu Cube, your hens will live out the rest of their days in peace, comfort, and joy. And as their chicken keeper, you will wonder how you ever lived without them in the first place.
Raising chickens is a rewarding experience at every age, whether you are starting from a freshly hatched chick or welcoming adult hens into your backyard. Each stage of a chicken’s life comes with its own care requirements, behavioural changes, and milestones. Learning what to expect at each phase helps you build a healthier, happier relationship with your flock and sets you up for success from the very beginning.
Key takeaway: Chickens pass through several distinct life stages, from hatching and brooding through to laying and retirement. Understanding each stage means you can provide the right care, housing, and nutrition at exactly the right time.
How to Tell the Age of a Chicken
If you are adopting chickens rather than hatching them yourself, knowing their approximate age is useful for planning their care and anticipating when they will start laying. The good news is that you can estimate a chicken’s age fairly accurately by observing their physical development.
Physical Development as an Age Guide
Feathering is the clearest indicator of age in young birds. Here is a quick reference:
Downy fluff (no adult feathers): Under 5 weeks
Adult feathers coming in: 6 to 8 weeks
Fully feathered with adult plumage: Around 8 weeks
Laying eggs: At least 16 weeks
Beyond feathering, you can also look at the development of the comb and wattles, body size, and general confidence of movement. Older hens often have thicker, rougher foot pads compared to younger birds.
Stage 1: Hatching Chicken Eggs
Hatching your own eggs offers a fascinating hands-on experience for the whole family. With the right tools and a little preparation, it is a straightforward process that even first-time keepers can manage confidently.
Essential Equipment for Hatching
Before you begin, make sure you have everything in place. Trying to source equipment mid-incubation adds unnecessary stress.
A quality incubator (with or without an automatic egg turner)
A thermometer and hygrometer to monitor temperature and humidity
A calendar for tracking incubation days
Fertilised chicken eggs from a reputable breeder, or collected from your own flock if you have a cockerel
Tip: Mark each egg lightly with a pencil on both sides. This helps you confirm that eggs are turning correctly, which is critical for healthy development.
The Incubation Process
Follow your incubator’s instructions closely throughout the 21-day incubation period. Bear in mind that not all eggs will hatch, even under ideal conditions. This is completely normal and not a reflection of anything you have done wrong.
The Final Days Before Hatching
The last two to three days of incubation are the most critical. Here is what to do:
Increase humidity slightly to prevent the membrane from drying out and sticking to the chick.
Lower the temperature by a small margin to mimic natural conditions.
Remove the automatic egg turner and add a non-slip surface to the incubator floor.
Watch for pipping, which is a small hole or crack in the shell. This is a sign that hatching is imminent.
Some chicks hatch within hours of pipping, while others take up to 24 hours. Resist the urge to assist unless there is a clear medical reason to do so. Patience is the most important tool at this stage.
Stage 2: How to Care for Newly Hatched Chicks
Young chicks are fragile and need a warm, safe environment to thrive in their first weeks of life. Before your chicks arrive or hatch, your brooder should already be set up and at the correct temperature. A well-prepared brooder removes a lot of the guesswork.
Brooder Setup Checklist
Use this list to make sure you have everything your chicks need from day one:
A sturdy enclosure with solid walls and a secure top
A heat lamp or brooder plate for warmth
Absorbent bedding such as pine shavings
Chick crumble feed for balanced nutrition
A chick-safe waterer (gravity-fed and shallow to prevent drowning)
Chick grit to aid digestion
A thermometer to monitor brooder temperature
The brooder temperature should start at around 35°C in the first week and decrease by approximately 3°C each week as chicks feather out.
Feeding and Health in the Brooder
If your chicks have not been vaccinated for coccidiosis, starting them on medicated chick feed for the first two to four weeks is a sensible precaution. Once that period is complete, transition them to non-medicated chick crumble. Always make sure fresh water is available, as chicks can dehydrate quickly.
First Outdoor Visits
By six weeks old, most chicks are fully feathered and ready for supervised outdoor visits. Use chicken fencing to create a safe, contained space and gradually introduce them to their future coop and run. Keep visits short to begin with and always supervise them closely. These early outdoor experiences help chicks build confidence and begin adjusting to their permanent home.
Moving Into the Coop
Chicks should be at least 12 weeks old before moving into a chicken coop outside. Before this age, younger chicks do not always have the coordination to safely navigate ladders and roosting racks. Introducing them too early can lead to falls or injuries, so patience here really does pay off. An Eglu Go chicken coop is a brilliant option at this stage, easy to clean and predator-resistant from day one. Remove the roosting bars from inside the coop at first, until the chicks are big enough to perch and walk across the bars safely, and add plenty of bedding to keep the chicks warm.
Stage 3: How to Tell Pullets from Cockerels
As your chicks grow, you will start to notice differences between pullets and cockerels. Being able to identify which is which helps you manage your flock effectively and find homes for your cockerels if you are unable to keep them.
Key Differences Between Pullets and Cockerels
The differences become more apparent from around six weeks onwards. Use this table as a guide:
Diet and Housing for Pullets and Cockerels
Both pullets and cockerels require a balanced diet and safe housing during this stage. Cockerels can eat the same diet as pullets until laying begins.
Pullets are considered young hens until around 20 weeks old. They may start laying eggs as early as 18 weeks, at which point you should switch them to a layer feed formulated for laying hens.
Cockerels are males under one year old. They do not require a different diet from pullets at this stage.
Note: If you are keeping cockerels with your pullets, monitor the flock for any signs of stress or bullying, particularly as the males mature. It is generally best to keep only one cockerel per flock to prevent fighting.
When Are Chickens Fully Grown?
Hens are generally considered fully grown at around four to six months old, while cockerels typically reach full maturity at around one year. Some breeds mature more slowly than others. Silkies, for example, are known to take longer to develop than high-production hybrid breeds.
Differences Between Adult Hens and Roosters
Once fully grown, hens and roosters are easy to distinguish:
Roosters have more pronounced combs and wattles, longer and more elaborate tail feathers, and may develop spurs on their legs. They crow, often starting early in the morning.
Hens have smaller combs and wattles, shorter tail feathers, and do not crow.
It is best to keep only one rooster per flock. Multiple roosters in the same space frequently leads to fighting, which can injure birds and disrupt the rest of the flock.
Egg Production in Adult Hens
A rooster is not required for egg production. Hens lay eggs regardless of whether a rooster is present. Most hens lay one egg every one to two days, with high-producing breeds capable of laying over 300 eggs per year.
The right housing makes a real difference. A secure, comfortable hen house with dedicated nest boxes encourages consistent laying. The Eglu Cube large chicken coop is designed with this in mind, offering easy-clean nest boxes and a well-insulated sleeping area that keeps hens comfortable year-round.
What Happens When Hens Retire from Laying?
As hens age, their egg production gradually slows and eventually stops. Most hens stop laying regularly by around five to six years old, though the exact timeline varies by breed and individual bird. The good news is that a well-cared-for hen can remain active and healthy for up to seven years or more.
Signs That a Hen Is Aging
You may notice subtle changes as your hens get older. These are all normal and not necessarily causes for concern:
Slower or stiffer movement, particularly in the mornings
Thicker, rougher foot pads
Fewer eggs, though they may be larger than before
A lower position in the pecking order as younger birds assert themselves
Hormonal Changes in Older Hens
Some older hens develop physical traits more commonly associated with roosters. This includes occasional crowing, the development of small spurs, or a larger, more prominent comb. This happens because aging ovaries produce less oestrogen, and the hormonal balance shifts. It is a natural process and does not indicate illness.
Older hens still contribute to the flock. They maintain the social structure, help younger birds learn flock behaviours, and continue to enjoy foraging and dust bathing. Retirement from laying does not mean retirement from life. Keeping older hens alongside younger ones creates a more settled, balanced flock dynamic.
What Should a First-Time Chicken Keeper Know?
Starting your chicken-keeping journey takes some preparation, but it does not need to be overwhelming. The most important thing to do before getting your first birds is to honestly assess how much time and space you have available. Chickens are low-maintenance compared to many pets, but they do require daily attention.
Chicks or Adult Chickens?
One of the first decisions you will face is whether to start with chicks or adult hens. Both have advantages:
Chicks require more time and equipment in the early weeks, but raising them from the start builds a strong bond and gives you full visibility of their development.
Adult hens are a faster route to eggs and require less specialist equipment. They can move straight into a coop and run.
There is no wrong answer. It comes down to your circumstances, your goals, and how hands-on you want to be.
Top Tips for First-Time Keepers
Research breedsbefore buying. Consider egg production, temperament, and how well the breed suits your climate. Decide in advance whether you want hens only, or a rooster as well.
Prepare your equipment before the birds arrive. Whether you are setting up a brooder or a permanent coop, having everything ready reduces stress for both you and your chickens.
Connect with other keepers. Online communities are full of experienced keepers who are happy to share advice and support, or ask your question in the Omlet subreddit.
Approach it with patience. Every keeper makes mistakes in the early days. The learning curve is part of the process, and most challenges have straightforward solutions.
Setting Up the Right Home
The coop you choose will shape your experience as a keeper. Omlet’s range of chicken coops are designed to make daily care simpler, with easy-clean surfaces and modular systems that grow with your flock. For larger flocks, the Eglu Pro offers extra space with the same easy clean, predator-resistant design Omlet is known for.
Summary: Key Takeaways
You can estimate a chicken’s age by observing physiological traits such as feathering, comb development, and foot pad texture.
Hatching eggs at home offers a rewarding, hands-on experience.
Newly hatched chicks need a warm, secure brooder with the correct feed, clean water, and grit from day one.
Pullets and cockerels can be distinguished by size, feathering patterns, comb development, and crowing behaviour from around six weeks onwards.
Hens are fully grown at four to six months, while cockerels reach maturity at around one year. Some breeds, like Silkies, mature more slowly.
Hens typically stop laying regularly by five to six years old but can remain active, healthy members of the flock for years beyond that.
Good preparation, the right equipment, and a well-designed coop make every stage of chicken keeping more enjoyable for both keeper and flock.
Omlet and Your Flock
Whatever stage your chickens are at, Omlet has the products and expertise to support you. Our coops are designed to prioritise chicken comfort while making daily care as straightforward as possible. Easy-clean surfaces mean less time scrubbing and more time enjoying your flock.
Our modular systems are built to grow with you. Whether you start with a small setup and a few hens or expand into a larger flock over time, Omlet products can be customised and extended to suit your needs at every stage. Browse our full range of chicken keeping supplies to find everything from coops and runs to fencing and feeders.
Wondering what the benefits of a chicken tractor are? The term may or may not be familiar to you, so you might be wondering: what exactly is a chicken tractor?
Chicken tractors are great for adding diversity to your flock and your garden. They also make it possible to move your hens quickly and safely, which is appealing to those that live in areas that experience severe weather events.
Omlet offers easy-to-assemble chicken tractors that are perfect for garden flocks. Does the ability to move your flock appeal to you? Let’s take a look at chicken tractors, and how they can benefit flock raisers.
What is a chicken tractor?
Chicken tractors are floorless, mobile chicken coops, with or without wheels. The idea began when farmers wanted to raise meat chickens on pasture, but without the risks that free-ranging can bring. The result was the “chicken tractor”, so named because the animals contained within it churn the ground much like a tractor would. There are “tractors” for multiple species of farm animals, such as rabbits, poultry, and pigs. The effect was two-fold: pasture-raised animals produce higher quality meat than those raised in a barn or coop, and areas of dense vegetation could be mowed down by animals inside of the tractor.
This method has practical applications for garden flock raisers that keep laying hens as well. Fresh grass, vegetation, and insects that hens ingest while foraging outside of their coop offer great nutritional value to their diet. In turn, some of these nutrients pass through to their eggs, making them healthier for you!
Reasons to get a chicken tractor
Aside from adding supplemental nutrition to your flock’s diet, keeping your flock in a chicken tractor has other benefits.
Chicken tractors are easily moved, allowing you to relocate your coop whenever you’d like
Mobile chicken coops can be moved in preparation for severe weather, changes in the seasons, or to help with landscaping
Relocate your coop easily if you move, or if you have a small garden that would benefit from rotating your hens’ area
Chicken tractors for flocks of laying hens can be very practical, depending on your routine and space. A chicken tractor from Omlet can also be attached to chicken runs later for a more permanent chicken coop setup, making them a flexible and customizable option.
What’s the best chicken tractor for my hens?
Omlet chicken tractors come in different sizes and configurations. The Eglu Cube Chicken Coop configured as a mobile coop has an attached run with added wheels and handles. Our largest coop, the Eglu Cube is the best choice for larger flocks of 4 hens or more. Despite its ample size, the Eglu Cube chicken tractor can be moved easily by just one person. The raised coop offers extra pecking space below, as well as a shady area for your hens to get relief from the sun.
The Eglu Go Up Chicken Coop is a more compact version of the Eglu Cube. Best for flocks of up to 4 hens, the Eglu Go Up offers elevation to make coop cleaning and egg collecting easy. This smaller chicken tractor is perfect for children to help clean and move around.
Lastly, the Eglu Go Chicken Coop is a ground-level chicken coop that can be configured with handles and wheels to be converted into a chicken tractor. Some breeds of chickens (or individual hens) prefer roosting on the ground, making the Eglu Go an ideal choice.
What to expect the first time keeping chickens
Lean into the first-time chicken-keeping angle, as many people looking at the benefits of a chicken tractor will be in the research phase before taking the leap.
Consider presenting the types of thing people should expect from their first flock, and what they should have to be prepared for them.
How often to move your mobile coop
When to move your chicken tractor depends on a few factors. Chickens don’t just eat the bugs found in the grass – they actually eat the grass as well. The best method for deciding when to relocate your chicken coop is by observing the grass. Once your hens have mowed it down, it’s time to move to a new patch. It’s entirely possible to have your hens mow your entire garden by rotating them in a pattern.
It’s also helpful to move your mobile chicken coop to sunnier areas in the winter, or to shady areas in the summer. In the case of severe weather, a chicken tractor can also be moved quickly to a secondary shelter, or out from under trees to avoid potential falling limbs.
Can I move my tractor with the chickens inside?
Keeping your chickens inside your chicken tractor while moving it is dependent on their personalities and your terrain. Some hens may be content to go along for the ride when being relocated, while others may be alarmed. If your garden is relatively flat, the gap created along the bottom from engaging the wheels of the chicken tractor should not be large enough for hens to escape through. However, a panicked hen may attempt to squeeze through small spaces.
Test your flock’s reaction and build their confidence by moving your chicken tractor by just a few inches at a time. After some practice, you’ll likely be able to keep your hens inside while your mobile coop is being relocated. If your property isn’t flat, or if your flock is upset by being moved around, you’ll need to relocate your hens to a chicken pen during moves.
Tips to make your flock love their chicken tractor
Chicken tractors can be customized just like their stationary counterparts. Chicken toys and accessories or a chicken swing are perfect for adding height and enrichment to your hens’ environment. Simply add these entertaining pieces to the attached run of your chicken tractor, and enjoy watching your hens peck the ground and play in their personalized space.
Freedom with Omlet
Omlet believes in letting chickens live their best, most natural lives while being protected. Our chicken tractors have all of the features of our stationary coops, with the added convenience of being mobile. Flexibility in chicken keeping has never been easier than with Omlet’s mobile chicken coops. Combine our chicken tractor with chicken fencing to create custom boundaries for your chickens, and add chicken treats to your routine to deepen the bond between you and your flock.
The best chicken coop is safe, functional, and comfortable for the hens they house, and easy to clean and maintain for their keepers. In short, the best chicken coops are those that bring joy to flock raisers, and keep their inhabitants healthy and safe.
But not all chicken coops are created equally. A high-quality coop may require some investment upfront, but will more than make up for it in the long run. Selecting the best chicken coop can seem overwhelming, but by simplifying the process down to comparison of quality and functionality, you’ll be prepared to make the right choice.
How to choose your chicken coop
Whenchoosing a chicken coop, size matters! First and foremost, you’ll want to decide on what size flock you want to keep to determine which chicken coop will meet your needs. For most chicken keepers, a small number usually evolves into more hens than originally planned (a phenomenon known as “chicken math” to those in the poultry world). By getting the largest coop within your budget, you’ll allow room for a potentially growing flock.
Next, you’ll need to decide if you need a run attached to your chickens’ coop. Providing the most outdoor space possible will make your hens the happiest, regardless of the size of your flock. Chicken runs that come standard with some chicken coops usually aren’t large enough to provide that free-range feeling, but not all chicken keepers are able to give their hens free rein of their yards either. Attaching awalk in chicken run to your chickens’ coop will offer plenty of space for your flock to forage and flourish.
Finally, you’ll want to fully weigh the pros and cons of the material of your chickens’ coop. Traditionally, chicken coops are made out of wood, but many chicken keepers are making the switch toplastic chicken coops. There are many reasons for this, but one of the biggest deciding factors influencing this change is the longevity of plastic over wood.
Plastic vs wooden chicken coops
Plastic chicken coops, such as those designed by Omlet, do not require seasonal maintenance. The advantages of plastic over wooden coops are staggering, and can save chicken keepers countless hours and dollars throughout the years.
Plastic coops also offer a less-hospitable environment for mites, which thrive in wooden coops. Mites take shelter in the grooves and crevices of wood, and flourish in damp, porous surfaces. Regularly cleaning a plastic chicken coop is the best and easiest way to keep mites at bay.
One of the biggest mistakes new chicken keepers make is not factoring in the maintenance required to keep wooden chicken coops safe and functional for their flocks. Even weather-treated wood warps and rots in the elements over time, which causes the structural integrity of the coop to be compromised. Roofs need replacing, paint needs reapplications, and the drafts resulting from shifting or settling require attention. Depending on the amount invested in the original coop, sometimes it’s more cost-effective to replace the entire coop rather than to mend seasonal issues.
Best chicken coop for large flocks (5 – 10 chickens)
Omlet’s largest chicken coop, the Eglu Cube can accommodate flocks of up to 10 small breed hens. Larger breeds of hens or larger flocks thrive in this size coop because of the:
Spacious roosting area inside
Partitioned nesting area
Shaded area beneath the coop.
Wide roosting rack to accommodate hens of all sizes
Twin-wall insulation
Draft-free ventilation
Heavy-duty plastic construction
Most hens don’t mind sharing a nest with other hens, but after the 5th or 6th visitor to the same nesting spot, hens may seek out alternate laying locations. The expanded nesting area of the Eglu Cube factors in picky hens, giving them ample space to fluff up a new spot to lay in.
Best chicken coops for smaller flocks (2 – 4 chickens)
Perhaps you live in an area that limits the number of chickens you can keep, Or, maybe you’re just getting started with chickens and are hesitant to get too many hens at once. If so, Omlet has the best chicken coops for you too!
TheEglu Go Chicken Coop is a compact, ground-level coop that is the perfect size for small flocks of 4 hens or less. This coop is a great option for
If an elevated coop still appeals to you, theEglu Go Up Chicken Coop is the raised version of the Eglu Go. The added height allows for easier coop cleaning and egg collecting, and offers additional space beneath the coop.
Best portable coop
Chicken tractors offer the freedom of flexibility for chicken keepers and their flocks. Chicken tractors are portable chicken coops that can be:
Relocated easily for chickens to have access to fresh pecking grounds
Beneficial to those in areas that experience severe weather events
Omlet’s chicken tractors can be moved effortlessly by one person. Simply engage the wheels and use the handles to roll your large flock’s home to a different location. Once the coop is in place, disengage the wheels and watch as your flock gets busy pecking around in their fresh patch of vegetation.
Just because they’re mobile doesn’t mean we’ve skimped on features – Omlet’s portable chicken coops have the same ingenious features as their stationary counterparts. Broad roosting racks, designated nesting areas, and heavy-duty construction are components of all of our chicken tractors.
Best coop with attached run
An attached run offers additional space for chickens that may not have a safe area outside of their coop. All Omlet chicken coops can be customized with attached runs of varying lengths, which can also be moved along with mobile coops. Large flocks can enjoyup to 12 feet of attached run space when combined with the Eglu Cube Chicken Coop.
However, the best option that offers the most space for your flock is awalk in chicken run. Connection kits make integrating your Omlet coop or attached run quick and easy, or simply place the entire coop within the walk in run. Omlet walk in runs make it easier than ever to spend time with your flock, and maximize your chickens’ outdoor space.
Best budget coop
In terms of price, theEglu Go Chicken Coop is the most budget-friendly chicken coop from Omlet. When compared to similar sized wooden chicken coops, its price point is slightly higher. However, these cheaper, wooden coops will need routine maintenance up to and including full replacement over time, whereas the Eglu Go does not require the same upkeep.
It’s also worth noting the quality of the attached runs. Wooden chicken coops weaken in the elements, causing chicken wire to come loose. Most wooden chicken coops use staples to affix mesh to the run, but when the wood rots, these staples are easily pulled out – leaving your chickens vulnerable to predators. Omlet’s attached wire runs are heavy-duty, and are held together by our innovative clips that won’t rot in the elements. Depending on the method of galvanization, chicken wire can bend and break under force from predators, giving them access to your hens and their eggs.
Easiest coop to clean
Keeping your Omlet chicken coop clean is immensely easier than cleaning a wooden coop. All components of the interior of Eglu chicken coops can be removed and thoroughly cleaned in minutes, and the entire coop can be pressure washed for a deep clean. Omlet’sportable chicken coops can be moved closer to designated cleaning areas for even easier access.
Routine cleaning and disinfecting is important for your hens’ health. Mites and other parasites that commonly seek out chickens live in damp, porous surfaces that are left alone. Wooden chicken coops are often breeding grounds for mites if not treated with insecticides– which in turn can irritate your hens. The best method to control mites is preventing them from taking hold. Plastic coops are not ideal environments for parasites, and daily cleaning will virtually eliminate their presence.
Best hen house for collecting eggs
Araised chicken coop is the easiest type of coop to gather eggs from. The Eglu Cube has a separate door that opens to the nesting area, giving you quick and easy access to fresh eggs. Children especially will enjoy how easy it is for them to participate in this favorite activity among chicken keepers.
Eggs can stay in the chicken coop for several days and still be fresh, but collecting eggs daily is always the best practice. Daily egg collection removes temptation for predators, gives your hens room to lay the following day, and gives you a chance toevaluate your hens’ health. And, as you’ll soon learn, there’s nothing quite like collecting a still-warm egg from the nesting box, laid by one of your own hens!
Chicken coop essentials
Once you’ve selected the best coop for your hens, there are optional accessories you can add to make your chicken keeping experience even more enjoyable – for both you and your flock:
All Eglu coops with attached runs come complete with coordinatingchicken feeders and waterers, but can be purchased separately as well.
Chicken perches to provide your hens with height and add visual appeal to your run.
Omlet has been in the business of creating the best chicken coops on the market for decades. Ourhen houses,chicken pens, and line ofchicken toys add joy to the lives of flock raisers, and help them keep their chickens happy and healthy. If you have questions about our chicken products, feel free to reach out to one of ourexperts at Omlet, and we would be happy to assist you in beginning your chicken-keeping journey.
Chicken run covers are an essential part of keeping your flock healthy and happy. They offer shade in summer, act as an umbrella during downpours, and keep debris from falling through the top of the run. In rain or shine, Omlet’s line of chicken run covers offers a wide range of protection for your hens.
What are run covers?
Outdoor chicken run covers are specially crafted tarps that go over the top of a chicken run. They offer shade from the sun, keep rain from falling on your hens, and act as a barrier from falling debris. This is especially important in preventing avian flu in chickens, as the virus is shed through the droppings of birds that fly over your flock.
Our covers differ from traditional tarps in that they are designed to be weatherproof, long-lasting, and specific to each size of our runs. Omlet’s Walk In Chicken Runs have gable-shaped roofs specially designed to support our covers and prevent water from accumulating on them.
Omlet run covers come in two different options: heavy duty and clear. Both are made from UV-resistant, waterproof materials, but our heavy duty covers block more sunlight to offer shade during warm weather. The clear covers are ideal for the wintertime when natural warmth from the sun is in short supply.
Which run cover do I need?
Choosing the right cover for your run depends on your location and chicken coop position. If your coop and run are in a shaded area, then a clear cover for winter months will offer protection and sunlight when shade trees lose their leaves. If your coop and run are out in full sunlight, a heavy duty cover will provide shade and shelter from storms.
Similarly, chicken keepers in warm climates will benefit from heavy duty covers that allow as little sunlight through as possible. This reduces the number of UV rays shining through on your flock, and provides shade from the sun. Colder climate hens will appreciate the additional sunlight that clear covers allow in, while keeping the snow and ice out.
We also offer combination covers that include protection for both cold and warm weather. These can be positioned on top or on the sides of the run to adjust the amount of light allowed in. Positioning a cover down the side of the run also provides a wind break – an attractive option for flocks in windy areas.
Omlet chicken run covers are custom-made for each size run that we offer. From attached Eglu runs to larger walk in runs, we have a cover for every set up. Mix and match your covers if you have your Eglu’s run attached to a walk in run for a wider spectrum of coverage.
What else do I need for my chicken run?
Once your run is covered, accessories can be added for your flock to enjoy in any weather. A PoleTree Customizable Chicken Perch is a great addition to a walk in chicken run, as it offers multiple levels of perching space. The PoleTree is completely customizable to your hens and their space, and can be outfitted with individual and connecting perches, as well as treat dishes. Pendant Peck Toys offer fun at ground level, and keep the run nice and tidy – reducing visits from rodents. A Chicken Swing is another favorite among our customers and their hens, and offers entertainment all around!
Does my run need bedding?
Even with a run cover, your chickens’ run will need bedding of some sort. Unless you have a chicken tractor to move around your yard, your chickens will make quick work of any grass in their run. Without grass, your chickens’ run will turn into a muddy mess in a hurry. A covered run greatly reduces the amount of rain that will make its way into the run, but heavy storms can blow rain in from multiple directions.
The most common choices for the floor of a chicken run are:
Wood chips
Sand
Pine shavings
Straw
Gravel
You can use a combination of substrates depending on your soil’s ability to drain. A covered run will keep bedding fresher longer – especially natural flooring media such as shavings or straw.
More weather-resistant products from Omlet
Omlet understands that life is full of extreme variables. We’ve created accessories that enhance our products’ safety and comfort measures. Our sophisticated Eglu Cube Chicken Coop has superior insulation to keep your flock warm in the winter and cool in the summer. But by adding Temperature Protection to our coops, you’ll double down on the insulating properties to keep your chickens comfortable in any climate.
The most rewarding feeling as a chicken keeper is knowing your flock is as comfortable and safe as possible. Omlet creates products that bring chickens and their keepers closer than ever – improving their collective happiness in the process.
Caring for chickens is a rewarding experience for all ages. While commonly associated with farms and barnyards, chickens are rising in popularity as pets. And why not? Birds of various species are kept as beloved pets, and chickens are part of the avian family.
Chickens make for unique and relatively low-maintenance pets. With the right care, hens can provide a family with fresh eggs all year round. Quality hen housing, food, fresh water, and simple cleaning routines are essential to helping your chickens thrive. But we’re just scratching the surface here – let’s dig into caring for chickens with tools to ensure success for your flock-raising journey.
Are chickens easy to take care of?
As long as your flock’s requirements are met, the rest of their routine is entirely up to you! The basic needs of chickens are:
Bedding in their nesting boxes to encourage laying
Chickens don’t require annual vaccinations like other household pets. Deworming can be done on a routine basis, but can usually be accomplished through feeding herbs and other natural anti-parasitic measures. Feed stores also carry deworming agents that can be added to your flock’s feed or water, but be sure to ask your veterinarian before choosing a dewormer.
It’s always a good idea to have a veterinarian that is familiar with chickens lined up before bringing your chickens home. A veterinarian can also be a great resource when deciding on what breeds to get and finding the right breeder.
Hens are social animals with each other, but don’t require daily interaction with humans to thrive. While they’ll certainly enjoy the snacks and treats you bring them, they don’t crave human interaction. But as most chicken keepers will agree, spending time with your hens is a relaxing and enjoyable experience.
Caring for chickens: the essentials
Though they’re hardy and adaptable, chickens still need a helping hand from their keepers to stay safe and comfortable. Chicken essentials should be selected with care, as they are not all created equal in terms of safety, benefits for the keeper, and functionality.
Coops and runs
A coop is an absolute essential when keeping chickens. Chickens naturally seek a place to roost at night, a safe nesting area, and shelter from the elements. A good chicken coop will fulfil all of those needs, but an excellent chicken coop will have added benefits for you as well. Some additional features that will make chicken keeping more enjoyable for you include:
Increased coop insulation and ventilation to bolster hens’ health
Choosing your chicken coop comes down to personal preference, but be sure to consider all of the benefits before making your final selection. Also take into account what size chicken coop you’ll need. Some breeds of hens get larger than others, so select a chicken coop size that will accommodate your flock comfortably.
Another important component of keeping chickens is a chicken run. Most hen keepers prefer a walk in chicken run so that they can easily spend time with their flock and see to their needs. Omlet’s walk in chicken runs are heavy duty, with roof panels and anti-dig skirting for top to bottom security. It can also be added onto to accommodate growing flocks.
Scratch grains or fresh chicken-safe produce can be fed in chicken treat dispensers to add nutritious variety to your flock’s diet. These treats should be offered as a supplement to laying feed, and are helpful when bonding or working with your hens. Some chickens are very food-motivated!
Fresh, clean water should always be available to your flock. Skim any debris from your chickens’ water if needed, and replace their water every 2 or 3 days to maintain freshness. In the warmer months, chicken-specific electrolytes can be added to keep your hens hydrated.
Entertaining the flock
Chickens are curious by nature, and love to explore, which makes them very enjoyable to observe. Being the inquisitive characters they are, they will seek out entertainment opportunities, and can quickly become bored without enough engagement from their surroundings. Bored chickens can turn to undesirable behaviours such as pecking (themselves or each other), aggression, and can even become listless or lethargic. In short: a bored hen is not a happy (or healthy) hen!
There are several features that can be added to your flock’s run to encourage their natural tendencies and exercise both their minds and bodies. Some accessories that will enrich your run include:
By creating an environment that fosters your flock’s natural behaviours, you can keep them safe and happy inside their run full-time. Plus, there’s nothing quite like watching your hens relax on their swing or explore the height of their run on their perches.
Protection against predators
Even if you live in an urban setting, chicken predators can be abundant. It’s important to have a predator-resistant chicken coop and run, complete with anti-dig skirting to help keep predators at bay. As an added layer of protection, an automatic chicken coop door can be added to your hens’ house to ensure they’re enclosed every evening – even when you aren’t home. Omlet’s Autodoor offers additional protection in the form of a horizontal closing mechanism, making prying the door open nearly impossible for predators.
Keeping hens healthy
Daily check-ins with your flock are essential for staying on top of their health. A healthy chicken is bright, alert, and responsive, with no visible or audible issues. Quickly checking in with your hens will usually be enough to notice if something is amiss with them. Many illnesses that occur in flocks can be treated, so it’s important to quickly relay concerning symptoms to your veterinarian.
Avian flu is on the minds of lots of chicken keepers, but can largely be prevented with a few modifications to your chicken run. Covering your flock’s outdoor space with a waterproof tarp is one of the best preventative measures to take. Ask anyone who has their own birds at home (of any species) not to go in with your chickens. This is helpful in preventing not only avian flu, but other bird-borne illnesses as well.
What to know when keeping baby chicks
Chicks require special considerations apart from adult hens. They need a heat source in the form of a heat lamp or brooder plate to simulate the warmth they would receive from their mothers after hatching. They also need to be kept in a special enclosure, usually referred to as a brooder, for several weeks with their heat source before being introduced to a coop and run.
Things to consider when raising chicks:
They’ll need to stay in a brooder enclosure with a heat source for 6-12 weeks
Feeding is required daily, as growing chicks eat much more often than adult hens
Shallow waterers, changed daily (chicks are messy!)
Daily monitoring and adjustment of heat source to ensure proper growth and development
Slow introduction over time to their outdoor environment
Raising chicks is a big commitment, but can be very rewarding. Chicks that are handled daily by their owners tend to be tamer once they’re placed in their permanent homes.
Spring is a favourite season for both flocks and their keepers. The temperature is moderate, and there’s more sunlight for your hens to bask in. Insects and vegetation are abundant, and your chickens will be eager to seize the warmer, longer days. Hens lay more eggs in the spring than any other season, and may also attempt to go “broody” (sit on a clutch of eggs) this time of year. Collect eggs daily to discourage broody hens from sitting and to help maintain egg production.
Summer
Depending on your location, summer may be the most difficult season for your flock. It’s vital to help keep your chickens cool in the summer, as hens can overheat quickly. Be sure to keep fresh, cool water available at all times, adding chicken-specific electrolytes if needed. Offer frozen treats to your flock, or make your own summer chicken treats to help your hens stay cool. Shade will also be a hen’s best friend in the summer – chicken run covers can help shield them from harmful UV rays and alleviate some stress from the heat. Monitor your flock for any signs of heatstroke, and bring overheated chickens inside promptly.
Research chicken breeds before deciding on which type of hens you want to keep. Make sure you’re familiar with temperaments, egg production, and lifespan of the breeds you’ve settled on.
Get the biggest coop and run setup that your budget allows for from the beginning. A flock can never have too much space, but they will certainly find themselves unhappy in too little space.
Be sure to have a support system when getting chickens for the first time. A veterinarian, flock-keeping friends, and expert advice goes a long way in encouraging you throughout your journey with chickens.
Omlet’s here to help
Keeping chickens should be as enjoyable as keeping any other pet. We love that chickens are making the transition from barnyards to gardens, and our products are designed to help keep hens healthy and happy in any setting. From hen housesto chicken fencing, we’ve got everything you need to make your chicken-keeping journey a success.
Have you ever wondered if your chickens like the rain? Hens don’t put on rain hats and boots to weather a spring shower, but some chickens are more willing to stay out in the precipitation than others. Whether it be rain showers or all-out downpours, at some point all chicken keepers will have to help their hens through wet weather. Thankfully, Omlet has the products that keep chickens safe – whatever the weather.
Rain and chicken safety
You may have some hens that are more than happy to hang out in a rain shower, or peck through the puddles in the aftermath. But, some chickens may avoid precipitation at all costs. As a general rule, hens will seek shelter once a sprinkle becomes more of a drenching experience than an enjoyable shower.
Rain isn’t necessarily dangerous for your hens so long as the temperatures are moderate. The most dangerous time for a chicken to become wet is during cold weather, as hens need to be able to fluff their feathers up to trap air around their bodies as insulation. If they’re wet, feathers will be heavy and lay flat, which keeps a hen’s feathers from doing their job.
Our new Walk In Chicken Run Rain Covers encompass the entire top of your flock’s run with a waterproof barrier to help keep the rain and snow out. No walk in run? No problem – our new Eglu Go Up Rain Covers will keep attached runs free from moisture as well. Keeping precipitation from falling directly on your hens is the best way to help them stay warm and dry.
Other dangers of rain for chickens
Aside from rain during cold weather, too much moisture can spell other trouble for chickens. Muddy conditions in the run opens your flock’s feet to bacteria and fungal infections, and creates unsanitary conditions. And, hens that stay wet or in damp houses for extended periods of time can develop upper respiratory infections. These primarily develop from mould or mildew growing in their coop, which is why a chicken coop that will not absorb moisture is so important to your hens’ health.
Puddles may be fun for kids to splash in, but chickens may drink from rainwater that has collected on the floor of their run. Muddy puddles can contain harmful bacteria and are not ideal for your flock to drink from. In addition to waterproof chicken run covers, bedding should be added to the floor of any runs that don’t have enough grass to prevent the ground from becoming excessively muddy.
Do any chicken breeds like the rain?
Some breeds of chickens struggle more than others in damp weather. For example, Silkie chickens have special feathers that do not repel water, so they can quickly become soaked through to their skin. Polish chickens are another breed that does not do well in wet weather, as they have loosely grouped feathers that do not keep them dry. Other breeds, such as Rhode Island Reds have tightly grouped feathers that help repel rainwater. Other hardy breeds such as Plymouth Rocks and Australorps have better tolerance in extreme temperatures, making them more resilient in damp conditions.
Are chicken feathers waterproof?
A chicken’s feathers are weather resistant, but not weatherproof. The tighter the feather grouping, the more weather resistant a hen’s plumage is. Once even tightly grouped feathers become saturated, water begins to seep through to a hen’s skin and there it begins to affect body temperature. Wet feathers are heavy, so chickens can’t fully fluff themselves in order to dry off once their skin becomes wet. In the wintertime, this can quickly lead to hypothermia. Being a wet hen in summer months is more of a nuisance than a danger, but can still lead to discomfort.
Most hens are aware of their limitations, and you’ll see most head for shelter when they feel they are getting too saturated. However, sometimes hens get caught out in a downpour. If the weather is below 60℉, bring soggy hens inside and towel them dry, being careful to move in the direction of their feathers. Wait for them to dry fully before letting them back outside.
How to keep your flock protected
Our new Eglu Go Up rain covers come in different length options to offer full top-to-bottom coverage, or a ⅔ length to allow a breeze through the bottom third of the run. The walk in chicken run covers now offer full-length coverage in a variety of sizes to fit across the entire top of the run. Continuous coverage means no gaps, dripping, or seams for the wind to grab.
Just like our run covers, Omlet’s chicken products are designed to perform and protect. Going above and beyond their intended purpose, our Eglu Cube has withstood much more than rain! That sort of performance is what we expect from all of the products we invent.
Omlet and your chickens’ home
We strive to create top-quality products that keep your chickens safe and make caring for them enjoyable. Our line of chicken coops are designed to withstand the elements, weather, and anything else life throws at them. Combine our resilient coops with a heavy duty walk in chicken run maximum protection and comfort for your flock – and peace of mind for you.
Caring for Silkie chickens is a little different than caring for their regular-feathered counterparts. This breed of chicken, with its very distinctive appearance, has gained popularity among flock raisers everywhere. They’re fluffy, friendly, and fun to watch and interact with. And due to their mild temperaments, are known to be great for children.
Silkie chickens come in a variety of colors, and their fuzzy plumage resembles fur more than feathers. In fact, ancient history describes them as “chickens with hair like a cat.” This ornamental breed isn’t known for egg production, but will lay a modest amount of small eggs per year.
Origin of Silkie chickens
The exact origin of Silkies is unknown, but experts believe they originated somewhere in Asia. Marco Polo described “furry chickens” in his journal during an excursion through China in the 13th century. Some time later, Dutch breeders of Silkies marketed them as a cross between a chicken and a rabbit.
A Silkie is actually a type of “Bantam” chicken. Bantams are a breed of chicken that are much smaller than standard chicken breeds. Other types of Bantams include:
As Marco Polo noted, Silkie feathers have a fur-like appearance. They appear furry rather than feathery as a result of genetics. Chickens with normal feathers have microscopic hooklets that connect each fiber (called “barbs”) on their feathers, creating a rigid and smooth appearance. Silkies have a genetic mutation that creates an absence of these hooklets. Because they lack this feature, a Silkie’s barbs are free to flow every which way, giving them their unique, fluffy appearance.
Are Silkie chickens higher maintenance than other chicken breeds?
While the fluffy appearance of Silkies is adorable, it does pose an issue when it comes to hardiness. Since their feathers are not rigid, Silkies do not have any sort of moisture barrier. Once wet, they will be saturated right down to their skin. This creates very dangerous conditions for any chicken – particularly in cold weather.
Caring for Silkie Chicken in Winter
Chicken coops with double-wall insulation are essential to keeping Silkies healthy and happy.Weatherproof chicken run covers are also a must-have when caring for Silkies to ensure they stay dry while spending time outside of their coop. As long as Silkies are kept dry in cold weather, they will handle cooler temperatures as well as any other breed. However, when their fluffy, down-like feathers become wet, it will take a Silkie a long time to dry, as they cannot lift their non-rigid feathers away from their skin. A wet Silkie should be placed in a warm coop right away.
Caring for Silkies in hot weather
Silkies also struggle more in the heat than other breeds. This is due to their dense plumage and reduced eyesight from their walnut-shaped comb and feathers around their face. Poorer eyesight makes finding shade and water more difficult. Place multiplechicken waterersaround the run to help your Silkies in warmer weather, and provide plenty of shade in their run tohelp your hens through a hot summer.
How to groom Silkie chickens
While it may be tempting to groom your Silkie, their fluff still consists of feathers – not fur. They will preen and dust bathe themselves just as any other hen would, so extra grooming is usually not necessary. If your Silkie gets extremely muddy, a gentle bath during warmer weather followed by a pat down from a towel will have them looking fresh in no time. If you want an enjoyable bonding activity, you can gently remove bedding or other loose debris from your Silkie using a soft-bristled brush. A baby brush or toothbrush are gentle enough for your hens’ feathers.
Characteristics of silkie chickens
Along with fur-inspired feathers, there are other signature characteristics that every well-bred Silkie should have. While some traits might not be as obvious as their poofy plumage, they all culminate to make Silkies unique among chicken breeds.
Flightless
Due to the lack of “hooklets”, Silkie feathers are not rigid enough to accomplish flight. This makes them ideal backyard birds that will not test fences. Since they can’t fly,chicken perches should be placed at appropriate heights for Silkies to hop on (and off!) safely.
Black skin
Most chickens have white or yellow skin under their plumage, but Silkies have black skin. Even their bones and organs have a black tint to them! This is due to a genetic mutation called fibromelanosis, which causes hyperpigmentation of connective tissue cells. Another chicken breed that shares this trait is the Ayam Cemani, which appears pitch black from head to feather to toe. Unlike this distant cousin, Silkies come in a variety of colors.
Walnut-shaped combs
Silkies have walnut-shaped, slightly lumpy-looking combs that do not extend beyond the feathery tufts on top of their heads. Some combs may hardly be visible at all. Combs should be dark in appearance, just as the rest of their skin.
Stunning blue earlobes
Silkies have bright blue earlobes that contrast starkly with their dark skin and fluffy plumage. In popular folklore, it’s believed that a chicken’s earlobes reflect what color eggs they will lay. For example, a hen with white earlobes will lay white eggs, red earlobes lay brown eggs, etc. This method is somewhat accurate, but some hens with red earlobes also lay olive or blue eggs, depending on their genetics. Silkies however lay white or cream-colored eggs – despite their colorful lobes.
Extra toes
Yes, you counted right – Silkies have 5 (sometimes 6) toes on each foot. This extra toe (or two) appears along with the “hallux” at the back of the foot, and does not touch the ground. These extra appendages don’t offer any practical value, other than adding to the cute quirkiness of the Silkie breed. There are only 5 chicken breeds known to have 5 or more toes on each foot.
Ornamental vs. layers
Silkies are not prolific egg layers, averaging 2-4 eggs per week. This classifies them as an “ornamental breed” of chicken, which are known more for their looks and personalities than their egg production. Still, they produce small white or cream-colored eggs to gather. Like other Bantam breeds, the ratio of egg yolk to white is larger in Silkie eggs than in standard chicken breeds.
Mild temperament
Silkies are well known for their calm, friendly personalities. They are great first time pets for children, offering both visual appeal and docile temperaments. Since they can’t fly, they’re easy for children or first-time chicken keepers to handle and interact with, and often enjoy being held.
Varieties of silkie chickens
Silkies come in a variety of colors, including: buff, black, white, and blue. There are also patterned variations such as “splash” Silkies, which are a mixture of colors. In addition to color, Silkies are now bred for different textures. For example, you can now own “Frizzle” Silkies, whose fluffy feathers have a crimped appearance! Other varieties to emerge include “Silkie Showgirl”, which is a cross between a Silkie and a Turken (Naked Neck) chicken. The result is rather shocking: a signature Silkie “pom pom” on the head, a completely featherless neck, and a fluffy body.
Variation in Silkies does not affect the overall integrity of the breed, as each color and variation are still bred to be docile pets with unique appearances. The Showgirl and Frizzle varieties are not officially recognized by Silkie breed standards currently, and are harder to find than traditional Silkies.
Can silkie chickens live with other breeds?
Can different chicken breeds get along? That depends. In general, hens get along as a flock once they’ve established their pecking order. Roosters are more likely to fight and cause a ruckus, but some hens can also be pushy and dominant. If you’re considering adding Silkies to an existing flock of larger chickens, take each of your hens’ personalities into account. If you have an overbearing, dominant hen, it may be best to keep your Silkies in a separate area. If you have awalk in chicken run, consider addingpartitions to separate hensaccording to size or level of dominance.
Hens of similar size can usually be housed safely together. Silkies are passive by nature, and will be at the bottom of a flock’s pecking order. Larger hens may accidentally injure Silkies while establishing this hierarchy, simply by being bigger in stature.
Omlet and silkie chickens
Silkies, just like any other breed, benefit fromenriching chicken toys, a safe and solid hen house, and high-quality diet to live their best life. Omlet’s wide selection of expertly designed chicken coops, runs, and accessories will help you raise a thriving flock of Silkies. But if Silkies aren’t the breed for you, there are many otherbreeds of chickens to choose from, all offering their own unique characteristics to bring luster to your life.
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