We all know that dogs have been man’s best friend for centuries, but have you ever thought about friendship with a pet rabbit? Just like dogs, rabbits are highly social animals. This means that they enjoy the company of others, be it of their own species or ours! In fact, evidence even suggests that rabbits who bond with their owners live longer and happier lives! With so much love to give, these sweet natured, fluffy creatures can make for the perfect pets. So, could rabbits be your new best friends?
Why Should I Get a Rabbit?
First and foremost, rabbits are very loving pets and will show their owners affection in a number of ways. So rest assured, you could be on your way to becoming your rabbit’s bestie in no time! If you’re considering getting a rabbit, you’ll grow to learn his or her specific body language. However, generally speaking, a rabbit that loves their owner will display this by purring, running around your feet, or even grooming you!
Putting aside just how irresistibly cute these animals are of course, they’re also incredibly amusing and will provide you with plenty of entertainment. So that your rabbits can become your new best friends, they need plenty of play time with you! Rabbits love playing with a wide array of rabbit toys, which not only helps them keep active, but will provide them with plenty of mental stimulation. And after a hard day’s work of hopping around, you can treat them to a few tasty rabbit treats – the perfect bonding experience!
Rabbits are also particularly appealing to those who would like a furry friend in their life but might not be ready to take on a cat or a dog just yet, that need that extra bit of time being walked or trained. This being said, rabbits still very much require your full dedication as an owner.
What To Consider Before Getting Rabbits
As with taking on the responsibility of any pet, you need to consider whether a rabbit could fit into your lifestyle. Rabbits might not require as much time or training as say a dog would. However, they still do desire companionship and stimulation to live the happy, fulfilled lives they deserve.
Something to consider before getting rabbits is your family dynamic. Although rabbits are commonly associated with being ‘starter pets’, they’re not suitable for young children in some circumstances. This is predominantly for the reason that many rabbits are naturally nervous and don’t like being handled. If your rabbit does have to be picked up, it should be done very gently, which unfortunately doesn’t often go hand in hand with very young children! This being said, some breeds are known to get along well with younger members of the family. The French Lops for example love socialising and won’t mind being handled.
Could Rabbits Be Your Pets’ New Best Friends?
If you’ve also got other pets, this will be something else to think about before bringing home your new addition. Fortunately, many of our other favourite pets do have the ability to get along with rabbits. However, this isn’t to say you should simply put your pets in one room at the same time and leave them be! Instead, slowly introduce your animals in a neural space, with a barrier such as a crate or fence.
If you’re introducing your rabbit to your dog, keep your dog on a lead at all times. Regardless of whether you’re introducing your rabbit to a cat, dog, or chicken, you should never leave them unsupervised during this stage. Keep a close eye on their interaction. You should watch out for whether your rabbit or other fluffy friend acts in an aggressive manner or seems anxious. You can read more about keeping rabbits and chickens together on our previous blog. Do also note however, that rabbits should not be kept with other small animals such as rats or guinea pigs.
Where to Get Rabbits
As with getting any animal, it’s important that rabbits are purchased/rescued from a reputable breeder or centre. Take time to do thorough research. Some rabbit breeds are best suited to owners with a little bit more experience than others.
Because of the misconception that rabbits are ‘easy pets’, there has been a surge in unwanted rabbits in shelters. The National Animal Welfare Trust is an organisation that offers a solution to this crisis. They ask that those interested in rabbit ownership consider fostering for a short period of time. This is so they can ensure that rabbits are being properly taken care of. It’s also so that prospective owners can see if a rabbit will suit your lifestyle before making the commitment. To find more information about the National Animal Welfare Trust, visit their website at www.nawt.org.uk.
If you’re unsure of where to start when it comes to picking what rabbit breed would be best suited to you, take a look at our a-z Rabbit Breed Guide. Once you’ve narrowed your options down, have a read of our How to Choose the Right Rabbit Breed for You blog, so that you can find your match and new best friend! So, could rabbits be your new best friends?
This entry was posted in Rabbits
Most people would associate rabbits with carrots, but in reality rabbits and digging go hand in hand. No matter the variety, all rabbits have an innate desire to burrow, tunnel, or scratch in the dirt. But is it out of boredom, fun or just general mischief? Look into the behaviours of our long-eared friends with us, and delve deeper down the rabbit hole to discover why they dig. And, there are some simple Omlet-approved hacks that might just do the trick in helping to curb your bunnies’ burrowing habits.
In the wild
Wild rabbits live in burrows – a network of underground warrens where they feel safe and protected from predators such as foxes and dogs. Digging is a necessity; a matter of survival. Without it, they would be left open to attacks, which is why rabbits have evolved into the tiny excavators that they are today.
Have you ever noticed just how big a rabbit’s paws are? All the better for pounding away at the dirt. And, their long claws are perfect for scraping at the earth. Maintaining their warrens is a big job – requiring these specific tools nature has provided them with.
All rabbits have their own behaviours and personalities, but females tend to be the most determined diggers because they instinctively prepare themselves for nesting. These traits carry over into our domesticated pet bunnies as well.
Fun and exercise
Digging is not just instinctive though, it is an engaging activity that’s also great exercise (think Zumba for rabbits). So rather than trying to eliminate it completely, it’s a good idea to give pet rabbits ways they can utilize this natural behaviour without destroying areas of your home or garden. At Omlet, we’ve developed the Zippi Rabbit Tunnel System, so that our pet bunnies can feel at home and comfortable – all while keeping your garden intact. Rabbit proofing your garden can also help give your bunny space while protecting your prized plants. Zippi tunnels provide an extensive playground of interconnecting tubes that keep rabbits entertained, similar to the burrows their wild ancestors would be used to. It also provides a safe route for your rabbits to navigate from their hutch, to their area, and back again. This method of travel mimics how rabbits in the wild utilize tunnels and burrows between warrens and the outside world.
Change the course of the Zippi tunnels anytime. The tunnels can be extended, rotated, or elevated for a more diverse route. An engaged bunny is a happy bunny, as boredom takes a toll on all rabbits.
Boredom
Constant digging not only wreaks havoc and poses an area of concern to you, but it could also be a sign that your rabbit is bored or lonely. Bunnies are naturally very sociable animals that love company. We strongly recommend giving your rabbit a housemate or two, because they thrive best in a pair or group setting.
If you do only have one rabbit then they will need more attention and entertainment than those who live with other bunnies. Sometimes rabbits can create a strong bond with their owners that is enough to curb any loneliness. Or, other playmates can include guinea pigs, small dogs, or cats – but these are largely dependent on the animals’ individual personalities. Any mixed-species interactions should be monitored closely.
Always offer plenty of enrichment for your rabbits. A Caddi Rabbit Treat Holder will help keep them entertained during snack time. Some rabbits also enjoy small toys like those designed for cats, or those specially made for rabbits.
Space to explore
If you start to notice some aggressive and disruptive behaviour in your rabbits, it could be due to a lack of space. Even as small animals, they can outgrow their living quarters. Rabbits will thrive much more with space and stimulation. The Zippi Rabbit Runs and Playpens provide your rabbits with more room to grow and explore in a safe environment. They’re simple to install, move, and maintain. They’re also easily extendable, offering endless possibilities and fun. Add Zippi Rabbit Platforms to utilize even more space and provide different vantage points.
5 ways to curb your rabbits’ digging
The more idle rabbits are, the more trouble they will cause. Keeping busy generally results in less digging from your rabbits. Provide lots to do to keep your rabbits busy. Here are 5 ways to help your rabbits dig safely, or to discourage digging altogether.
1. Digging boxes
Place a cardboard or plastic box in your rabbits’ area and fill it with soil, paper, twigs, or anything else that will provide a little resistance. Your rabbits can satisfy their urge to dig while also burning some excess energy in the process.
2. Reward
Scatter your rabbits’ favourite treats around a designated “digging spot” to reward their burrowing efforts, and hopefully prevent them from digging elsewhere. It may take some patience and consistency, but over time, they should get used to the new routine.
3. Organising
Indoor and outdoor rabbits enjoy organising. They may not colour-coordinate their closets, but they do like to pull, bite, tug and scratch the materials around them. This is called “bunching”. Not only is this a great source of entertainment, it also keeps them physically and mentally busy. Use some old bath mats, rugs or towels and let them “bunch” as much as they want – which will effectively provide a good distraction from creating a hole in your flowerbed. Be careful with the type of fabric – if anything shreds too easily it could become a choking hazard, so be sure to change the fabric if it becomes too thin or worn.
4. Spaying or neutering
Some rabbits will dig out of frustration and the need to escape and find a mate. Spaying or neutering your rabbits will diminish this impulse and prevent other unwanted behaviours. Like with dogs and cats, in the long run, your rabbits will be healthier and happier being spayed or neutered.
5. Anti-tunnel mesh
The Omlet Eglu Go Rabbit Hutch attached run, is made from a strong steel mesh that helps protect your rabbits from predators. It also comes with an underfloor wire that will not only keep your rabbits from their relentless digging, but will also help stop them from burrowing under the run and escaping. It’s more hygienic than a solid floor, with big enough gaps in the mesh so that it still provides the comfort of grass rather than uncomfortable hard ground or metal.
Omlet: the rabbit behaviourists
At Omlet, we dedicate our time to developing products with the animal and their owners in mind. Our Caddi Rabbit Treat Holder, Zippi Rabbit Tunnel System, and Zippi Rabbit Runs and Platforms are all perfect additions to any bunny-lover’s home, and will help keep your rabbits healthy and happy for years to come.
This entry was posted in Rabbits
Providing your small pets with enough exercise and activity is extremely important for their mental and physical well-being. An under stimulated rabbit or guinea pig will easily become bored, which can result in unwanted behaviours and a lot of frustration. Luckily, there are things you as an owner can do to encourage movement and introduce more excitement into their lives. Here are some of our top tips:
Provide more space
It might seem obvious, but it’s much easier for a rabbit or guinea pig to get enough exercise if they have plenty of space to move around on. Extend their current small animal run, add new small animal playpens, or set up a room in the house or area of the garden where your pets can securely roam free.
Change things up
New things will excite and stimulate your rabbits and guinea pigs. However, they don’t need a completely new home every month to stay interested. Regularly swapping toys around or changing the setup of their hutch and run by moving accessories to new places will encourage them to explore, stimulating both brain and body!
Get them foraging
Rabbits and guinea pigs instinctively love searching for food. You can help them live out this natural interest by hiding treats in their enclosure, stuffing hay into small nooks or putting leaves, fruit and vegetables in a Caddi Guinea Pig or Rabbit Treat Holder. Anything that gets your pets working for the reward of some really good treats is great in terms of activating them!
Level up
Adding guinea pig and rabbit platforms to your enclosure is a great way of utilising all the space available. Guinea pigs will love running down ramps, and rabbits can use their long leg muscles to jump up onto platforms or steps. As if that wasn’t enough, rabbits especially love sitting up high and inspecting their surroundings, so giving them a lookout space is going to be very popular!
Digging opportunities
While it might not apply to the average guinea pig, you will struggle to find a rabbit that doesn’t absolutely love digging. If you don’t want them to ruin the lawn, giving them a designated digging pit is a good idea. A large plant pot or tray with loose soil will be a great start. You can also put some crumpled up newspaper in the bottom for your rabbit to shred.
Get involved with the playing
If your pet is comfortable with it, a great way of activating them is to play together. Get down to their level and give them some time to get used to your presence. Eventually they will likely approach you and you can slowly introduce games and interactive playing. You can bring toys and treats for encouragement, depending on what your pet likes.
Some rabbits and guinea pigs can also be mentally stimulated by learning tricks. We’ve got a blog on how to train your small pet if you think this might be for you!
Teeth exercise
Rabbits’ and guinea pigs’ teeth never stop growing, so to keep them in tip top shape your pets will need something to grind them down with. A constant supply of hay is the most important thing, but you can also give them gnaw toys and pet friendly branches to nibble on.
Give them a space to rest
While it’s important to give your pets enough space and opportunities to move and exercise, it’s just as important to make sure they have places in their home where they can settle down and relax. Being prey animals, they will benefit from having somewhere secluded to return to where they know they will be safe. This could be snuggling down in the bedding of their rabbit hutch, or peeking out from a guinea pig shelter on the run.
This entry was posted in Guinea Pigs
Whether you’re buying a present for an animal loving child or for your own little pet, we’ve got the perfect gifts, big and small. Check out these top tips, now at an amazing price in the Omlet Black Friday Sale!
Shelters and Play Tunnels
Give your rabbits or guinea pigs something fun to play with on their run this winter with Zippi Guinea Pig Shelters and Rabbit Play Tunnels. Available in green or purple, the shelters are a great way of providing a safe and secluded place for your pets to hide, or as a platform they can jump onto and watch the world go by.
The play tunnels can be placed independently anywhere on the run for your pets to chase each other through, or be connected to the shelters to create a maze that mimics their wild burrows. Entertainment and safe spot in one!
Caddi
The Caddi Rabbit Treat Holder is the perfect stocking filler for chickens, rabbits or guinea pigs, or their owners. The Caddi can be filled with a range of pet appropriate treats, and will swing as the animals peck or bite the treats. It’s the ideal both mental and physical challenge, with the added bonus of a tasty reward!
Hung from the roof of your hutch and run, the height of the Caddi can easily be adjusted, and it’s super easy to remove it for refilling and cleaning.
Qute Hamster and Gerbil Cage
The Qute hamster and gerbil cage allows owners to get closer to their pets. The modern design means you will be happy to display the piece in your kitchen or living room, and the large, crystal clear bedding tray makes it easy for pet owners of all ages to see what their pets are up to. The bedding tray also offers a convenient way of getting your hamster or gerbils out of the cage for playing, socialising and exercise.
Geo Bird Cage
Upgrade your budgie or other small birds’ home this winter with the stunning Geo Bird Cage. The Geo has got everything your bird needs to become a natural part of the home, and you can accessorise with baths, mirrors and toys for your pets to enjoy.
You can also add a festive touch to the avian housing with the NEW Nordic Green cover. Pop the woodland themed cover with a calming cream background and a trim of geometric trees over the cage at bedtime to let your pets rest in their own winter wonderland.
Eglu Go Hutch
Do your current pets need a home improvement? The Eglu Go Small Animal Hutch is the perfect way of keeping rabbits or guinea pigs in the garden. The handy integrated hutch and run solution allows your pets to run in and out as and when they like during the day, and when it’s time for a nap they can curl up in the safe and insulated house. In winter you can move the hutch closer to the house, making cleaning and spending time with your pets even easier.
This entry was posted in Budgies
Ever cleaned your pets’ run and found old bits of mouldy cabbage or soggy feed that is nearly impossible to pick out of the grass? There is an easy way of keeping your pets’ treats fresh for longer, while also improving run cleanliness AND keeping your animals entertained!
The Caddi can be hung at any height from all pet runs, trees or other structures in your garden. It’s super easy to fill with whatever you want to give your pets, be it bits of fruit, fresh hay or Feldy Chicken Pecker Balls.
At the moment you will get 50% off Caddi Treat Holders for chickens, rabbits and guinea pigs when you sign up to the Omlet newsletter. Take this opportunity to make your pets’ run funner and more hygienic than ever before!
4 reasons Caddi will improve your pets’ run:
All pets will be happier if their living quarters are tidy and clean, but it’s also important for their health that both their coop or hutch and run are kept hygienic. Mouldy food left on the damp ground can make a chicken, rabbit or guinea pig very ill, so having a Caddi to keep it in will make it much easier for you to spot anything that’s gone off, and to remove it in a second.
Food, treats or hay that is left on the ground on the run will go off very quickly, especially at this time of year when temperatures can vary dramatically between day and night and there is likely to be more rainy days. With the Caddi, the treats you leave your pets will keep fresher for longer as they won’t come into contact with the wet ground. They will also be kept dryer thanks to the waterproof top.
The end of summer means that there will be less food available for wild animals like rodents and small birds, and they are likely to approach your garden and your pets’ home in search for tasty morsels. By putting feed, hay or vegetables in the Caddi rather than scattering on the ground, you are making things more difficult for uninvited visitors!
As the treats, veg or hay you are giving your pets are kept contained in one place and won’t get stepped on by muddy feet, they will be crunchier, cleaner and better tasting. As the swinging motion of the Caddi offers stimulation and entertainment, your pets will truly enjoy snacktime!
Buy now and get 50% off when you sign up for the Omlet newsletter!
Terms and conditions:
This promotion is only valid from 28/09/21 – midnight on 03/10/21. Once you have entered your email address on the website you will receive a discount code that can be used at checkout. By entering your email you agree to receive the Omlet Newsletter. You can unsubscribe at any point. This offer is available on single Caddi Treat Holders only. The offer does not apply to Twin Packs, Twin Pack with Peck Toys or packs with Feldy Chicken Pecker Balls. Excludes all other chicken accessories. Offer is limited to 2 Caddis per household. Subject to availability. Omlet ltd. reserves the right to withdraw the offer at any point. Offer cannot be used on delivery, existing discounts or in conjunction with any other offer.
This entry was posted in Chickens
If you have done your research and decided that a rabbit is the pet for you, you now have the task ahead of choosing which rabbit breed you would like to get. There are lots of wonderful breeds to choose from, and they all have their own specific features and characteristics. To help you pick the right rabbit for you and your family, we’ve put together a list of things to think about:
Size
Rabbit breeds differ in size, from small Netherland Dwarfs to large Flemish Giants. Smaller breeds tend to be more skittish and nervous, whereas larger rabbits are generally more gentle and less aggressive.
Larger rabbits will naturally need more food, and more space. But don’t think that small rabbits will be fine with limited space, often littler bunnies run around a lot more as they have more energy.
Child-friendly rabbit breeds
While young children should never be given the main responsibility of looking after a rabbit, if you have children in the family it’s good to find a breed that is generally happy to be touched and handled.
A lot comes down to personality, but there are some breeds that are known to get along well with children, like French Lops and Dutch Rabbits.
Reason for getting a rabbit
Think about why you are getting a rabbit, and what is important to you in a pet. Are you happy to just watch them enjoy themselves in the garden, or would you really like to have a rabbit that is sociable and wants to come to you for cuddles? Would you like to breed for your bunny, or show it off in rabbit shows? Take a read of our New Rabbit Checklist blog so that you have everything you require for when the time comes to pick up your new fluffy friend!
Looks
Rabbits come with various fur lengths, colours, ear types and builds. You probably have an idea of what you would like your pet rabbit to look like, but it’s worth exploring a few different breeds to see what’s out there.
It’s important to remember that different breeds require different amounts of grooming and looking after. Long fur, like that of the Angora rabbits, will for example need brushing daily or a few times a week, so you will need to consider if that is something you will be happy to do.
Meet the rabbit in person
While rabbit breeds have characteristic features and temperaments, a lot also comes down to breeding and personality. If possible, try to go and see the breeder or person you are buying your rabbit from, or the center where you’re adopting from.
If your rabbit is still small, watch how they interact with their surroundings and siblings, and if possible, see what the mother is like. Make sure the rabbit doesn’t have any obvious health problems, and try to get a feel for its temperament. If it’s important for you that the rabbit is happy to be picked up, make sure they have been around humans from the start and have regularly been handled.
Photo by Cameron Barnes on Unsplash
Genetics
Read up on specific breeds’ susceptibility to different health problems. Some breeds tend to have a higher risk of developing problems with their jaws, others with joints, or ear mites. With good care the absolute majority of rabbits will be happy and healthy, but it’s a good idea to research problems in order to prevent them.
The expected lifespan also differs somewhat between breeds. The majority of rabbits live between 5-8 years, but some breeds are known to often live for over 10 years. This is obviously a bigger commitment, so it’s worth thinking about.
Consider these things when choosing a pet rabbit. If you know what you want, here are some of our suggestions:
You want a gentle family bunny that is good with children
You have had rabbits before and want something special
You want to keep your pet rabbit indoors
You want an intelligent rabbit that is very energetic and playful
You want a really fluffy and cuddly rabbit
This entry was posted in Rabbits
Estimates of the world’s domestic rabbit population vary wildly between 15 million and over 700 million. People have kept rabbits for hundreds of years, and traditionally they were farmed as a plentiful resource – after all, they do breed like rabbits! The larger population estimate includes all the rabbits that are still kept for meat and fur.
With this many rabbit owners around the world, and with the bunny’s rather inscrutable facial expression, it comes as no surprise that the question “is my rabbit happy?” has been asked more than a few times by anxious rabbit keepers.
There are several ways of telling whether your furry friend is content and happy, most of them centring on body language.
Happy bunny body language
Body language is the key way of telling how your rabbit is feeling. Simply by spending time with your bunny, you will learn some of the basic messages that tell you if they are happy and relaxed, or stressed.
These are some of the signs of a rabbit’s mood.
- Twitching nose. Rabbits are constantly twitching their noses. Not only does this help them sniff the air around them, it also eases their breathing, regulates their body temperature and helps them relax. A contented rabbit will do a lot more nose-twitching than a stressed rabbit, so if you notice that your rabbit hasn’t twitched its nose in a while, there may be something distressing it.
- Chilling out. Another easy-to-spot sign of a happy rabbit is an overall relaxed body. Chilled bunnies will lie quietly, ears erect (unless their flop-eared bunnies), sometimes with their legs stretched out, noses twitching contentedly.
- Crouching. Like us, when a rabbit is stressed, its muscles become tense as its fight-or-flight instincts activate and its body floods with adrenaline. If the bunny is in a crouching position, ears flat, pupils dilated, it is anxious, stressed or afraid. The cause could be another pet, a scary noise, or even a whiff of something unfamiliar in the air. This behaviour is common in rabbits who have not been hand-tamed from a young age. Conversely, if your rabbit is chilled out, lounging in the hay and not tensed up in any way, you can be sure that they are content.
- Hopping. When most people picture a rabbit, they imagine a cute creature hopping around. Rabbits have evolved to be great jumpers, with very strong back legs to help propel them at high speeds. Hopping not only acts as a great escape mechanism, it also assists rabbits in their play. Bunnies like to hop around when they are feeling happy and mischievous. Your rabbits may perform the occasional playful leap in their enclosures, jumping in the air, twisting their bodies a little and then landing again, alert and playful. A rabbit showing this type of behaviour is very happy with life. A bunny who is gently hopping around and exploring the world around them is also feeling playful and happy.
- Running. A rabbit who darts for cover, usually stamping its back legs on the ground first, is not a happy bunny. Something has startled your poor pet, and the best thing to do is let it recover its composure and confidence in a safe area – usually a quiet corner of the hutch. A quick run to another spot, with ears flat, can also be a sign of anger.
- Curiosity. Rabbits are naturally nervous and will only let their curiosity take the lead when they feel safe. In the wild, rabbits are at the bottom of the food chain, a source of food for many predators. Because of this, rabbits are naturally jumpy (pun intended) and on edge. Domestic rabbits are calmer than their wild relatives but still retain their natural wariness.
Angry bunny body language
These physical clues tell you that your bunny isn’t chilled or afraid – it’s hopping mad!
- Sitting, front legs raised. If your rabbit sits up, front paws raised and flicking in and out as if trying to punch something, it means the bunny is angry – no matter how cute the behaviour might look! The ears will be erect (although not in flop-eared bunnies) and facing outwards like radars. The posture may be accompanied by a growling sound.
- Crouching and thumping. If your rabbit is tensed up and thumps its back legs on the ground but doesn’t bolt for cover, it’s angry. The tail will be raised and, in stiff-eared breeds, the ears will be erect. Everything about the bunny will look tensed up, and the pupils will be dilated.
- Crouching with bared teeth. If your bunny is crouched with its front legs stretched in front of it and its head up, teeth bared, it’s angry and ready for a fight. The body will be tense, even quivering, and the mouth will be open, the tail raised, pupils dilated and ears folded back.
How to make rabbits happy
There are various reasons why a pet bunny might be unhappy or stressed. The commonest cause is poor environment. They need sufficient space in their hutch and run, and they don’t want to be harassed by nosy dogs, cats or loud parties. The rabbits will also need the company and stimulation that enables them to fulfil their natural instincts. Remember – rabbits are social animals and love having other bunnies to play with.
Giving your rabbits regular health check-ups and ensuring they are up to date with their vaccinations is also essential. A healthy diet will go a long way towards ensuring a happy bunny. A high-quality pellet mix and a lot of hay form the basis of healthy diets, with fresh veg as treats.
To summarise, if your rabbit is relaxed around you or shows signs of curiosity rather than fear when introduced to something or someone new, they are almost certainly happy and relaxed.
A chilled-out rabbit is a mixture of nature and nurture. They are naturally skittish animals, but if handled by their owners at an early age, they will come to treat you as part of their safe environment, and their happiness will be obvious in the fact that they love spending time with you.
This entry was posted in Rabbits
Save 25% on the Caddi Treat Holder until 2nd August! Fill the slow-release treat dispenser with summer snacks to keep your pets entertained for hours.
5 things you’ll love about the Caddi Treat Holder:
? Ideal way to give treats to your pets
? Keeps food off the ground for added hygiene
? Easily attached to any run or enclosure
? Swinging motion keeps chickens entertained
? Completely weatherproof and easy to clean
Terms and conditions
This promotion is only valid from 28/07/21 – midnight on 02/08/21. Use promo code SUMMERSNACKS at checkout to get 25% off Caddi Treat Holders for chickens, rabbits or guinea pigs. This offer is available on single Caddi Treat Holders only. The offer does not apply to Twin Packs, Twin Pack with Peck Toys or packs with Feldy Chicken Pecker Balls. Offer is limited to 2 Caddi per household. While stocks last. Subject to availability. Omlet ltd. reserves the right to withdraw the offer at any point. Offer cannot be used on delivery, existing discounts or in conjunction with any other offer.
This entry was posted in Chickens
Like all social animals, rabbits have a ‘pecking order’. Young rabbits who have grown up together will sort this out without you even noticing. However, if you are introducing rabbits to each other for the first time, they will have to size each other up and establish which one is going to be dominant in the relationship.
The rabbits will not usually sort out this hierarchy by fighting, but display physical behaviour that is the bunny equivalent of two people showing off. They will chase, groom and bow, and one will try to mount the other (a sign of dominance in many mammals).
Why do rabbits groom each other?
On the surface, it may look as if a grooming session is an act of love and friendship. In reality, it is an act of subservience. The bunnies who do the grooming are letting the dominant rabbit know that they accept their place lower down in the social hierarchy. Mutual grooming will sometimes occur, but if a rabbit is licking and grooming another bunny’s ears, eyes and forehead, it means they are acknowledging the dominant rabbit’s place at the top of the pecking order.
The dominant rabbit will often request the grooming by approaching another rabbit and lowering its head. This may look like an act of submission, but it is the exact opposite. The rabbit with the lowered head is saying “here’s my head – get grooming!”
Why do rabbits bow to each other?
A bowing rabbit is asking to be groomed. The dominant bunny will approach its companion head-on, often touching noses. Its ears will be raised, and it will sometimes nudge the other rabbit’s chin to prompt the grooming.
Early in a bunny relationship, before the pecking order has been properly established, the rabbit being bowed to may not take the hint and, instead, will bow back. There will be several bows from each rabbit before the matter is settled, and it may even end in a brief tussle. A rabbit who wants to be groomed tends to insist on it!
Why do rabbits ‘flatten’?
Flattening involves crouching low on the ground, ears down. That latter detail differentiates it from a bow, as the flat ears indicate submissiveness. Rabbits will sometimes perform this action if they feel threatened by another rabbit in the run, and it will usually defuse any potential confrontation straight away.
A dominant rabbit will occasionally approach the ‘flattened’ bunny and lick its forehead. This is an acknowledgement of the submissive gesture, and it means the other bunny can relax.
Why do rabbits chase each other?
Chasing has two meanings. It can be sexual behaviour, with a male chasing a female, or it can be another sign of dominance.
Chasing occurs quite frequently when rabbits are first introduced to each other. When the hierarchy has been sorted out, it becomes far less frequent. However, an unneutered male will often chase habitually to let the other rabbits know he is the dominant one. Some occasional bullies enjoy chasing, too. Unless one particular rabbit is being repeatedly targeted and is becoming stressed, or any individual is hurt as a result of a vigorous chase, you should simply accept it as part of the pecking order.
Sometimes the chase will manifest as a circling motion, with the dominant rabbit literally running rings around the subservient one. This will often culminate in mounting.
Why do non-mating rabbits mount each other?
Dominance is not automatically based on gender, and a female is just as likely to mount a male as vice versa. It’s a bit like wrestling, where the person who has thrown their opponent to the ground has won that particular bout. The rabbit that has been mounted will not always submit after a single mount, and the tables may be turned a few times before the dominance is formally established between the two bunnies.
Once rabbits have settled in together, the mounting will usually end, although some boisterous males seem to persist with the mounting habit. As long as the submissive rabbit accepts this as part of the social setup, it will not lead to further aggression. Occasionally, you might notice the dominant rabbit mounting just to remind the other bunny that they are the boss.
If the submissive rabbit appears to be distressed and is trying to escape, and is being pursued as a result, the animals may have to be separated for a while. Otherwise, it is best to let them get on with it and accept the mounting behaviour as a fact of rabbit life.
Introducing new rabbits
New rabbits should be introduced to each other on neutral territory, if possible. If you simply lock a newcomer in an existing rabbit run, it will be bullied by most of the other bunnies, and the dominant one can sometimes inflict injury on the newbie.
If you can take your dominant rabbit with you when choosing the new pet, it will help enormously. You will be able to see how the old rabbit reacts to the new one, and if all is well, they can even travel home together in the same travel crate. This will also help the bonding process, as both rabbits will feel nervous during the journey.
When you get home, let the rabbits settle down together on neutral territory. If all goes well, they can be moved to the run later in the day, with two food bowls. This is the best-case scenario, and it will often be a more drawn-out process getting two bunnies used to each other. You should have a spare run ready for the newbie rabbit, within sight and smell of the established bunny or bunnies.
Let the rabbits cohabit each day for a few hours on neutral territory until they are completely happy together. This may involve several mounting, chasing, grooming and bowing sessions, but the pecking order will be established in the end!
This entry was posted in Rabbits
Pride of Omlet series is a collection of amazing stories which shine the spotlight on extraordinary pets and share their selflessness, bravery, talent and compassion with the world.
We have been lucky enough to collect some wonderful stories of your extraordinary pets and share them with you for 10 weeks! Here is a summary of the stories that you can read again and find directly on our Blog.
Pride of Omlet: Stand Up for Disabled Animals
Jerry’s a cheeky, playful and boisterous rescue dog from Romania who can do a handstand! He landed on his feet when Shena gave him a home and inspired her to start a rescue centre specialising in disabled animals. Read the story here!
Pride of Omlet: The Constant Companion
Martha’s humans Nicola and Ben bought chickens to bring joy to Julia, their mother who they cared for at home. The family could never have imagined that a chicken would become a caring companion to Julia in the advanced stages of dementia. Read the story here!
Pride of Omlet: Free Support
Once caged battery hens, Hennifer Marge and Sybil now work free-range with their human Jonathan, transforming lives for offenders at the Rosemead Project. Jonathan (support worker and chicken champion) believes the hens have the power to unscramble tricky social situations. Read the story here!
Pride of Omlet: A Perfect Match
On paper, Kipper wasn’t exactly what Angela wanted. After years of behavioural challenges, he’s become the best-behaved blood donor and saved over forty dog’s lives. Kipper’s turned out to be Angela’s perfect match. Read the story here!
Pride of Omlet: Teachers Pet
Henni Hen is a teaching assistant by trade. A cute and cuddly chicken who loves children. She follows in the footsteps of her bubbly humans, Hamish and Verity. Read the story here!
Pride of Omlet: Mipit Makes Sense
Mipit is a Mental Health Assistance Dog for his human, Henley. Mipit keeps Henly alive and independent. Who wouldn’t love a dog that can put out your recycling, answer your phone, and be your best friend, come rain or shine? Read the story here!
Pride of Omlet: Perfect Peaky
At the tender age of one, Peaky is already a retired filmstar. He had lived in a cage his whole life, released only to perform. When Joana and Fergus took him home, he was a fluffy, yellow bundle of nerves. But they are determined to help Peaky, their cute little canary companion, to come out of his shell. Read the story here!
Pride of Omlet: Saving Sophia’s Life
When you’ve grown up with animals, home isn’t home without a pet. Bringing Harry home was lifesaving for both him and his humans, Sarah and daughter Sophia. Harry has a special gift. He’s a unique epilepsy monitor, and he’s saved Sophia’s life countless times. Read the story here!
Pride of Omlet: Buster’s Beard
Buster was destined to chase balls on the beaches of Barry Island. He’s a lovable labradoodle with big brown eyes and a long beard. A thinker with a playful nature, he’s co-authored a children’s book with his human Natalie to bring Autism Awareness to all. Read the story here!
Pride of Omlet: Brave Bunnies
It’s hard to describe how frightened Pixie the rabbit was when the RSPCA rehomed her with an experienced rabbit owner. Eighteen months on, cheeky little Pixie lives in the lap of luxury and is learning to be loved by her adoring human, Wendy. Read the story here!
This entry was posted in Budgies
Rabbits that bond with their owners live longer, happier lives. Learning how to build a bond with your bunnies helps you enjoy their company even more, and forges a friendship that’ll span their entire lives. Since rabbits are prey animals, they have an innate nervous nature – and as a result, don’t give their trust as easily as dogs or cats may. But, with some patience, you and your rabbits will be able to understand each other better, deepening the bond between you. Whether you’re a first-time rabbit owner or a seasoned bunny keeper, here are 10 ways to bond with your rabbits.
1. Learn their personalities
Like humans, rabbits have their own distinct personalities and characteristics that set them apart from each other. Some rabbits are very shy when they’re first brought home, while others are outgoing and social from the start. Learning to read your rabbits’ body language is the first step in figuring out their unique personalities. Rabbits make different sounds and change their posture to reflect how they’re feeling. You may also find that you have two rabbits with completely different personalities toward humans – but having an outgoing rabbit can be helpful in gaining the trust of a more timid bunny.
2. Create a shared space
It’s natural for your rabbits to feel nervous or even defensive if you interact with them by reaching into their hutch – after all, this space is their home, and all of their instincts tell them to protect it from potential predators. If you want to spend time bonding with your rabbits, try setting up a play area or run large enough for you to sit inside with your pets. This way, you can start interacting with them on neutral ground. Rabbits feel comfortable when they have something over their heads, so don’t feel bad if the first few times they hide under any covered area you have set up.
While all bunnies should have a comfortable rabbit hutch, your first few interactions shouldn’t be inside of it. Rabbits seek shelter in the form of burrows or dens, which is how they see their hutch. Reaching into the hutch to pick up or pet your new rabbits can startle them, and can eventually create unease inside their safe space.
Instead of infiltrating their hutch, create a shared space in the form of a rabbit playpen. This will enable you to sit inside of an open area to let your rabbits come to you. Don’t be discouraged if your bunnies dart to the nearest cover during your first few attempts to pet them – this is their natural instinct shining through.
3. Offer healthy treats
While sitting in your shared space, offer your rabbits healthy treats by hand. There are plenty of fresh foods that you can feed your rabbits that will go a long way in winning their trust. Leafy greens in particular are both nutritious and easy to offer by hand – their length can be adjusted, gradually luring your rabbits toward you.
Once your rabbits are taking treats by hand, slowly encourage them to hop onto your extended legs or lap. While sitting on the ground, place the treats on your leg or hold them just over your lap. Before long, your bunnies will be bounding into your lap for food and attention.
4. Fill the playpen with toys
Placing more than just yourself inside of the shared space with your bunnies will help them adjust even faster to your presence. Bunnies love burrows, hideaways, and differing heights to gain a new vantage point. Adding Zippi Rabbit Tunnels, Zippi Rabbit Platforms, or Zippi Rabbit Shelters and Play Tunnels are all great accessories to help your bunnies feel more at ease and encourage play. It’s a good sign when your rabbits play while you’re in a shared space – it means they trust you enough to venture out of safety and exhibit their natural behaviours.
5. Give your rabbit new experiences
Rabbits are creatures of habit, but it’s good to change things up from time to time. New foods, toys, or run accessories are fresh and fun ways to break up monotony. And, over time, your rabbits will learn to associate you with these fun additions or changes to their routines. Try rearranging their run, re-routing or adding onto their Zippi Tunnel System, or offering homemade toys like empty paper towel rolls to brighten your bunnies’ day.
6. Petting your rabbit
Once your rabbits are comfortable sharing a space and taking treats from you, it’s time to introduce petting. Physical contact builds a stronger bond between you and your bunnies, but they may not take to it at first. The first time you stroke your rabbits, they may become startled and dart for cover. This too is a natural behavior– one that can be minimized over time. It can take several weeks to be able to pet your rabbits without this reaction.
The best way to introduce petting to your rabbits is to hold your hand low, just to the side of their heads. This way, they’ll be able to see exactly who and what is coming toward them. If you come straight from above their heads and backs, they can’t see what’s coming and will react just like their cousins in the wild running from a bird of prey or other predator. Also, avoid approaching your rabbit directly in front of their heads – they have a “blind spot” due to the location of their eyes, and are unable to see things coming toward their foreheads.
7. Teach your rabbits tricks
After your rabbits have adjusted to being petted, you can start incorporating some intellectual stimulation. Teaching your rabbits tricks will build their confidence, your bond with them, and foster their natural curiosity and behaviours. Start with simple tricks that come naturally to them, like walking through a tunnel or up a ramp with a treat waiting for them at the end. You can slowly build up to more advanced tricks like spinning in a cycle or rolling over. Rabbits can even be taught to play fetch like a dog.
8. Copying your rabbit
This method may seem unusual, but the goal is to behave in ways that your bunnies would expect from others of their own species. This could be you pretending to clean your “paws”, or leaning over to pretend to nibble at some of their food. Make sure you have your rabbits’ rapt attention, otherwise, you’ll be playing bunny charades by yourself. This method is particularly fun for children, especially those who aren’t old enough to have an abundance of patience to wait for their bunnies to come to them.
9. Choose the right time to play with your rabbit
As you observe your rabbits, you’ll see a pattern in their daily routine. There will be times of the day when they’re most active, when they prefer to nap, and when they seek out food or water. Learning their routine will help you determine the best time to play and socialize with them. Choose a time of day when they are most active – this will be the time when rabbits will be most receptive to play and training endeavours.
10. Learning to hold your rabbit safely
The last step in bonding with your rabbits is holding them. It may be tempting to push this step toward the top of the list, but it’s important not to rush them. Being held is the ultimate submission to humans – the truest expression of trust for a rabbit.
Always hold your rabbits in a way that’s most comfortable for them. This may be in a football hold, with your rabbit’s head tucked under your arm, or supported snugly against your body. Some rabbits even prefer being held on their backs – similar to how we hold human babies. Always be sure to support their hindquarters to help them feel secure.
Omlet and your rabbits
Rabbits are gentle animals, and need gentleness in return. Being respectful of your rabbits’ space, personalities, and insecurities will help them see you as a friend instead of a foe. Starting them out in an Eglu Go Rabbit Hutch will begin building the bond between you and your bunnies with confidence and security. And, when you add a Zippi Rabbit Playpen, you’ll be able to cultivate a lasting relationship in a shared space that you can customize and tailor to your rabbits’ needs throughout your lasting relationship.
This entry was posted in Pets
This article is a part of our Pride of Omlet series, a collection of amazing stories which shine the spotlight on extraordinary pets and share their selflessness, bravery, talent and compassion with the world.
-Written by Anneliese Paul
It’s hard to describe how frightened Pixie the rabbit was when the RSPCA rehomed her with an experienced rabbit owner. Eighteen months on, cheeky little Pixie lives in the lap of luxury and is learning to be loved by her adoring human, Wendy.
Wendy had two beautiful rabbits, which she adored. A jet black male Rex rabbit called Jensen and his chocolate brown partner, Havana. But in 2019, Havana died suddenly of pneumonia, and Jensen grieved so severely that he wouldn’t leave his bed. He was the most miserable, unhappy rabbit.
Wendy wanted him to bond with another rabbit, so she went to the RSPCA Canterbury and found Pixie, who had been severely neglected. Pixie was rescued with her partner, but sadly, this rabbit didn’t survive. Pixie was close to starvation, she was skin and bones and had to be fattened up before she was ready to be rehomed. Wendy wanted to give her the loving home she deserved.
Thinking she would be a perfect match for Jensen, Wendy took Pixie home. She had divided the rabbit house so that she could slowly introduce them. After about a month, they were lying next to each other, separated only by the wire, so Wendy decided it was time. But Pixie was traumatised and her fear presented in aggressive behaviour. She couldn’t handle it and bit Jensen. She was agitated and frightened of everything. For a while, even putting food down for her was tricky. She would lunge at the hands that fed her. It was a terribly sad time for Wendy to see Pixie so distressed.
Wendy kept Pixie on her own, and slowly slowly, Pixie began to trust her. Now, 18 months on, she puts her nose up to be stroked, and she’ll hop alongside Jensen. Their Omlet runs, run parallel, so she’s got her space, and he’s got his. They also have a shed divided in two with three levels, windows, balconies, and a flap to their outside Omlet runs, which are connected with tunnels to the conservatory. The gate system on the Omlet runs means Wendy can let them both have time in the house. What was once Wendy’s dining room is now a rabbit playroom with a box, some steps and tunnels so they can just mess around and do bunny stuff. They take turns to come in, and Wendy leaves the door open, so they don’t get too warm.
Before she starts work in the morning, she makes the rabbits a little salad. Kale, Cavalo Nero or Spring Greens are the staples, mixed with herbs like parsley, mint and basil. And in the summer, she’ll pick fresh leaves and rose petals. They have 3 or 4 different kinds of hay to choose from in their runs, and for a treat, Wendy likes to give them bunny biscuits, or strawberries which they absolutely love.
From her sad beginnings, Pixie has blossomed with a loving owner who understands her past, builds up her confidence and feeds her a delicious diet. And Jensen has a new partner, Tinkerbell, a blue-eyed white mini Rex. Wendy simply adores all three of her beautiful rabbits, but especially Pixie. She’s a survivor.
“Almost every day, she could reduce me to tears. She’s so loving and responsive. I’m just absolutely amazed that this little rabbit found it in her heart to actually forgive humans.”
This entry was posted in Pride of Omlet
Some pets, including rabbits and guinea pigs, are naturally vegan. Hamsters and gerbils, although omnivorous, can thrive on a vegan diet in which the protein content is supplied by plants and vegetables. Others, including omnivorous dogs and out-and-out carnivore cats, cannot be easily pleased on meat-free diets.
All animals need to have their nutritional needs satisfied. But this does not mean you can’t have a vegan dog. Vegan cats, though, are a lot trickier.
Can my dog have a vegan diet?
If you were to meet a species of animal for the first time and had to make an accurate guess about its diet, you would get lots of clues by looking at its teeth. The teeth of a dog, like the teeth of a bear, proclaim loud and clear that this animal is an omnivore – that is, one that eats both meat and vegetables. If you think of your dog as a domesticated wolf, you get a good idea of its natural diet.
However, as the panda proves, a supposed meat-eater can sometimes get by perfectly well on a vegan diet. A panda’s teeth are similar to any other bear’s – long canines for meat-eating and molars for grinding vegetation. And yet pandas don’t eat anything other than bamboo. So, if a bear can be vegan, does that mean you can have a vegan dog?
The answer is yes – but it’s a yes with lots of small print! A dog requires a diet that contains the fats and proteins it would get from meat. It is dangerous to ignore this basic need and simply feed your pet with whatever you please. Some dogs have delicate stomachs at the best of times, and a low-fat, high-fibre diet can cause potentially life-threatening problems. A diet that excludes meat should never be fed to a dog without the advice of a professional pet dietician.
The collagen, elastin and keratin found in meat diets are not easily replaced by vegi equivalents. Your dog will also need the ‘long chain’ omega-3 fats found in animal products such as egg, fish and some meats. Vegan omega-3 fats are not the same as animal-derived ones.
All of which presents a headache for the vegan dog owner. There are, however, products available that claim to let your dog live a healthy, meat-free life. Before you take the plunge, it is essential to seek professional, scientific advice and guidance. Compromise is usually the best choice here – a vegan diet supplemented by some of the animal-derived essentials. Crickets, for example, can provide lots of the amino acids and keratin a vegan diet lacks, and they’re 65% protein.
Can my cat have a vegan diet?
The compromise approach is even more important for cats. These are amongst the planet’s true carnivores, obtaining all their dietary requirements from other animals.
The main challenge with minimising the meat in a cat’s diet is that, unlike many mammals (including dogs), cats cannot produce certain proteins. They have to absorb these from the meat and fish in their diet. Amino acids are another issue – cats deficient in the animal-derived amino acid taurine, for example, usually succumb to a specific type of heart problem.
Even a fortified vegan cat food cannot be confidently recommended. Turn the situation on its head, and try to imagine weaning a rabbit onto a meat-only diet, and you get some idea of the challenge – and the ethics – involved.
There are some lab-grown ‘meat’ products in development, with vegan and vegetarian cat owners in mind. However, whether these will arrive – and remain – on the market any time soon is hard to guess.
For many vegan pet owners, there is a huge ethical issue involved in feeding the animals they share a space with. Ethics, however, include the animal’s needs too, and it’s an almost impossible issue to resolve when it comes to cats. If you are able to reduce but not eliminate the meat in your cat’s diet, that’s the safer option.
Top 10 pets for vegan households
There are, of course, plenty of other pets that don’t eat meat, or that eat some meat but can still thrive on a meat-free diet. Here are our ten favourites.
1. Rabbits. No problems here – rabbits are happy vegans, with diets based on hay and vegetables. You could argue that the soft pellets they eject and then eat are animal products of a sort, but they are simply semi-digested vegetation.
2. Guinea pigs. Like rabbits, these wonderful little characters thrive on a 100% vegan diet.
3. Hamsters. As most hamster owners feed their pets with shop-bought hamster food, they may not be able to say exactly what the ingredients of that food are. However, vegetarian and vegan hamster foods are readily available.
4. Gerbils. Like hamsters, gerbils are omnivores that can live happily on a vegan diet. They tend to have rather delicate stomachs, so feeding them with a high-quality pellet mix is essential. Too much fresh stuff can cause problems.
5. Mice. Although they will eat pretty much anything in the wild, mice can thrive on vegan diets; but it is still best to use a food mix prepared specifically for them. This ensures that they will not be deficient in any of the vitamins and minerals they need.
6. Rats. These are the most omnivorous of rodents, but as long as you feed them a vegan mix that has been fortified with all the nutrients they need, they will thrive. Indeed, rats who eat too much animal fat tend to become fat and die prematurely.
7. Chickens. If you watch a free-range hen, it soon becomes clear that she will eat anything – grass, beetles, worms, and everything in your veg patch if you’re not careful! Most chicken feed emulates this mix of plant and animal products. However, it is possible to buy vegan chicken feed, and circumstantial evidence suggests that hens can thrive on it. However, they are likely to produce fewer eggs, and you will not be able to stop them scratching for worms and bugs, no matter how vegan the layers pellets are!
8. Budgies and parrots. Vegans will have no obstacles to face with budgies and parrots, unless the birds are being bred. Egg-brooding female birds need a protein boost, normally delivered via an egg-based food or cooked meat. Vegan alternatives are available, though.
9. Finches. Many finch species enjoy bugs and mealworms as treats, but these are not an essential part of an adult finch’s diet. These birds thrive on a mixture of seeds and fresh vegetables.
10. One for reptile fans. When you think of pet snakes and lizards, you probably have an image of dead mice or doomed crickets. However, there are a few commonly kept pet reptiles that eat a 100% vegan diet, the most popular being the Green iguana. Getting the balance of vegetables just right is very important for the animal’s health, but meat is certainly something you won’t have to worry about.
There is no shortage of choice when it comes to vegan pets. Keeping a vegan cat or dog is a much trickier proposition, though. And with all these animals, a balanced diet that matches the pet’s nutritional requirements should be your primary goal.
This entry was posted in Budgies
Rabbits are usually peaceful creatures who love to play and socialise with their owners. But what do you do if your rabbit starts showing signs of aggression? It’s tough to see your pet stressed, and it’s natural to want to help them. Here, we outline a few ways you can minimise bad bunny behaviour and start enjoying the time you spend with them again!
What is aggressive behaviour in rabbits?
There are two major kinds of aggression in rabbits, the most typical being defensive behaviour surrounding their habitat. If your rabbit bites when you reach your hand into their cage or hutch, it’s likely to be territorial defensive aggression. Another kind of aggressive behaviour occurs between your rabbits – for example if they are fighting each other to the point of injury.
It can be upsetting to see your bunny get hurt, and hard to know what to do. A small amount of fighting is natural between your pets, but if you can see blood on their fur or in the hutch then it’s possible that the anger is getting out of hand and the bites are getting nasty.
How to help with territorial aggression and biting
If your rabbits bite your hand – or try to – consider how and where you approach your pet. The hutch is often a bolt hole and ‘safe space’ for a bunny and is where they spend most of their lives. If you reach in unexpectedly, it is natural that they might be scared and defensive. Rabbits are prey animals in the wild and are especially jumpy when ‘cornered’ in their safe space!
You may find that if you start to interact with your rabbit in a non-hutch setting – such as a run or play area – you have more chance of a peaceful and happy interaction. Try sitting with your rabbit in the run for a few hours every day, and then begin to slowly approach with your fluffy friend’s favourite rabbit treats. After spending time like this, you may find that your rabbit starts coming to you more and more, and if the rabbit is initiating the approach, aggression is much less likely.
By spending time with your rabbit in this non-hutch environment, you are teaching your pet that you are not a predator, and that you can be trusted to approach them. Once the trust is established, you should be able to approach the rabbit in its rabbit hutch with no problems.
How to stop aggressive behaviour between your rabbits
If you have noticed fighting between your rabbits, and if this seems to be more than just their normal play fighting, you may need to think about how much space they have in their hutch. It could be that your rabbits have grown since you bought them, and their once spacious house is now a little too small for two. It could be that they have spent little time in the run over winter, and so they’ve become a little ‘house-bound’ in their hutch. Cabin fever affects humans and pets alike!
Whatever the reason for the bunnies’ bad moods, it is important that your rabbits should feel happy and relaxed in their hutch. The fighting will likely ease off if they have more elbow room. Rabbits are territorial animals, and they each need their own space as well as a shared space.
Try distracting your brawling bunnies by clapping your hands. The noise will distract them and will hopefully teach your rabbit not to fight. A particularly aggressive rabbit can be deterred by spraying water on their nose – but this isn’t something you want to be doing too often, so if, after the first few sprays, it isn’t making any difference, it’s time for Plan B.
If you decide to invest in a larger hutch but your rabbits continue to show aggressive behaviour, you may have to separate them into two different hutches. That’s Plan B!
The benefits of spaying rabbits
Spaying (also known as neutering) is the term for stopping your pet from having babies and is accomplished via surgery. If your rabbits were from a pet shop, it is likely that they have already been spayed – but if you got your rabbits from a friend, it’s always a good idea to take them to the vet and ask about spaying.
If your rabbit has not been spayed, they are much more likely to exhibit aggressive behaviour to you and any fellow bunny who shares their hutch.
It is common for owners to keep male rabbits or female rabbits in single-gender pairs, and this can lock them into a mating-related feud that neither can win. Your rabbits could be fighting over who is the most dominant in their shared territory, but this fighting is much less likely to occur if they have been spayed.
Equally, if you have decided to keep a male and female rabbit together, it is a good idea to get them spayed, as rabbits can have up to fifty baby bunnies a year! Fifty bunnies may sound cute but consider how difficult it could be to care for and house that many animals!
There are other benefits to spaying your rabbit other than reducing their aggression, such as reducing their chances of getting mammalian, ovarian or testicular cancer. Spayed rabbits are also much easier to train, and are more sociable generally.
If you have only recently brought your pet rabbit home, they may need a little time to get used to their new space and become comfortable. It is natural for any new pet to be nervous and skittish at first, and this could lead to a few aggressive behaviours, including biting, early on.
It’s important to know that your rabbit is more scared of you than you are of it, and that just because it has bitten you doesn’t mean that you won’t end up being the best of friends! If you feel nervous about establishing contact with the rabbit, talk to a friend who has had rabbits for a little longer, or check out some of the reassuring ‘how to’ guides available online.
Just remember that having a rabbit is hugely rewarding and it’s worth spending time hand-training your pet from the outset. As long as they have enough space and no aggressive ‘mating rivals’, they should be every bit as calm and cuddly as you could hope for.
This entry was posted in Rabbits
You can keep chickens with other pets when the proper preparations and precautions are in place. Some pets like cats and dogs may have an innate prey drive that chickens can trigger, so it’s important to take introductions slowly to ensure success. With these tips, you’ll be able to confidently introduce your current pets to your chickens, or introduce new pets to your existing flock with confidence.
Keeping chickens with dogs
Dogs are the most common pets in the world, with millions kept as pets across the country. So, if you’re among the many dog owners, adding chickens to your family is possible once you consider your dog’s temperament and trainability.
Assessing your dog
If you’re a dog owner, the first thing to consider is their temperament. Different dog breeds may also react differently to birds as part of their nature. For example, breeds like Labrador Retrievers or German Shorthair Pointers may become easily excited around birds due to their natural hunting and retrieving drives. Other breeds that may have increased prey drives include:
Regardless of their breed, if your dog becomes excited or overly curious around small animals, their behaviour will likely carry over to chickens. If your dog loses their mind over the birds at your backyard feeder, or drags you to investigate the park ducks on your evening walks, they’ll likely stress out your flock – and themselves.
Dogs without a prey drive or with little interest in birds will likely not pose a problem to your chickens, but all dogs react differently when new pets enter their territory. Usually, most dogs will adjust to the new backyard occupants just fine after an acclimation period. You will likely see your dog expressing interest in your chickens at first – hanging around and sniffing the coop. They may even express a desire to interact with your chickens through playful postures and behaviours. Understanding your dog’s body language around your chickens will help you determine what their relationship will be like.
Chickens are prey animals, and can be hurt easily. Dogs cannot play with chickens as they would with other dogs or even other pets. It’s important to teach your pup that chickens are fragile friends – not toys or something to hunt.
Teaching dogs to get along with chickens
Unless leashed walks make your dog overly excited, their first encounter with your chickens should be done with a dog collar and lead. Make sure their collar is tight enough that they don’t slip out, but not so tight that it’s uncomfortable. Walk your dog up to your chickens’ enclosure and let them sniff. Maintain a tight leash until you see your dog’s reaction, and allow the lead more slack slowly to reinforce good behaviour.
Let your dog watch you spend time with your chickens. This should be done with your chickens in the safety of a strong walk in chicken run. If your dog does more than sniff or hang around the run, take a step back and approach their interaction from a different angle.
It could take several weeks for your dog to fully accept your chickens. Some other ways to help your dogs adjust to your chickens include:
- Setting up chicken fencing around the outside of your flock’s run for your dog to observe them at a distance.
- If your dog has a run or playpen, place it next to your chickens’ run and slowly decrease the distance over several days until they are side-by-side.
- Reward your dog with their favourite treats each time they are calm around your chickens.
Make sure to never leave your dog unattended with your chickens – especially in the beginning. Even if they can’t get into the run with them, an excited dog’s barking can easily stress your flock out.
Keeping chickens with cats
Cats are more difficult to train than their canine counterparts, and are decidedly less predictable in their behaviour. But the good news is that most cats don’t see a large hen as potential prey the same way a dog might. Most cat owners will agree that their cats show little to no interest in their chickens. In fact, cats and chickens have a somewhat symbiotic relationship.
Birds and their feed attract rodents, which a cat would much prefer over your hens. So, when your cat is able to patrol your chickens’ surroundings, chances are good that any potential rodent problem will be nipped in the bud.
Some cats may show increased interest in your hens. This largely depends on your cat’s breed and temperament. Cats will pose a greater threat to chicks rather than grown hens, but by keeping your flock in a strong chicken coop and run, you’ll ensure they stay safe from your cat.
Keeping chickens with guinea pigs
It may be tempting to keep some cute cavies in with your chickens, but in reality it’s not wise. Chickens will likely pick on them, and with their short legs, guinea pigs can’t get away from them quickly. Their dietary requirements are also very different, and your chickens may eat your guinea pigs’ food in favor of their own, which means neither animal will be getting the nutrients they need. If you have cavies and want to house them near your chickens, it’s best for them to have their own guinea pig hutch and run.
Keeping chickens with rabbits
Rabbits on the other hand are fast enough to fend for themselves against chickens, and if raised together from a young age, can do well around chickens. Still, they require their own dietary needs and clean sleeping quarters. They don’t roost like chickens, so they’ll need their own burrowing space in the run or under the coop.
The easiest way to achieve this is by adding walk in chicken run partitions. This will allow you to create “rooms” for each species to ensure they all get what they need. You can open the partition doors to allow everyone to be together whenever you’d like, or create a third space as a common area.
Remember to try to give each species as much space as possible in their respective areas to make them feel safe and comfortable.
Chickens and other pets
Chickens can also mix happily with goats, and with female ducks (males will tends to bully them). Ironically, they do not mix with birds in an aviary. They will eat anything that falls to the aviary floor, but they will also happily peck the other birds whenever they can and may attract rats and mice, which will cause problems for the smaller birds.
If you live in a rural setting, you can keep chickens with other barnyard animals. Chickens mix happily with:
- Goats
- Sheep
- Cows
- Alpacas or llamas
- Pigs
- Female ducks, guinea fowl, peacocks, geese, or pheasants
Any other avian species kept with chickens should be docile and preferably female, as males can bully hens. Smaller birds like quail or pigeons will likely get pecked at by chickens, so it’s best to stick with larger birds as run-mates. Small pets like hamsters, gerbils, turtles, or frogs should never be kept with chickens – they will be pecked at and killed.
Omlet and your pets
Omlet has all of the pet products you need to keep your furry and feathered family members healthy and happy. Having multiple types of pets is exciting, and through our line of chicken coops, chicken runs, and walk in run partitions, you’ll be able to create a safe haven for all of your animals to enjoy. And, by knowing that Omlet products are protecting your flock, you can rest easy knowing that you’ve provided them with the best chicken housing solutions available.
This entry was posted in Budgies
One of the most rewarding experiences you can have with your pets is teaching them tricks, and despite what you may have heard, it’s a lot easier than you might think.
Rabbits and guinea pigs are sociable animals, and they greatly benefit from spending time with their owners learning and playing. It can be a great way to establish trust between you and your pets, as well as a lot of fun!
Training a rabbits or guinea pig works best when you can repeat it every day – even if it’s only for five or ten minutes. Not only will your pets love the attention, having the repeated routine will help them remember the tricks you perform together.
The first thing you will need is a quiet space away from distractions. Zippi Rabbit Runs and Playpens are ideal, giving you the secure and familiar space in which your pets can relax and enjoy the training. You will also need some of your rabbits’ and guinea pigs’ favourite treats to encourage and reinforce the learning. It can be helpful to separate your pets when training them, but equally, some pets benefit from learning from each other – for example, if you have an older trained rabbit or a young, untrained one, the young rabbit can learn tricks faster by copying his older friend. And forget what you’ve heard about old dogs and new tricks – your pets are never too old to pick up new things!
Rabbit and guinea pig tricks for beginners
When you start to train your guinea pig or rabbit, it’s all about patience and perseverance. Your pet might not seem that interested initially, but as you continue to reinforce their learning with treats, you will find they keep coming back for more. You should always start with something simple, such as ‘Circling’, a perfect trick for both rabbits and guinea pigs.
Training your guinea pig or rabbit to circle
To teach your pet how to perform Circle, simply grip a treat tight between your fingers, and hold it close to your pet’s mouth. Then lead your pet around in a circle with the treat – so that it spins on the spot. Repeat this until your pet spins around without you leading them, occasionally reinforcing them with the treat. It is important that you only give them a reinforcement treat when they successfully do the trick. Don’t feel bad if they manage to sneakily steal the treat from you – it’s all part of the fun!
Don’t worry if this takes some time to learn – the first trick can be the hardest for your rabbits or guinea pig, and once they have mastered Circle, a whole world of tricks opens up for you and your pet to enjoy together! If your pet is struggling with Circle, try making them turn in the other direction – just like us, our pets are either left or right-footed.
There are all sorts of tricks that you can teach your pets using a similar method – teach your guinea pigs to go through a play tunnel in your Zippi Run by guiding them with a treat to the beginning of the tunnel, then place the treat at the other end of the tunnel as a reward. You can also teach your rabbits to first stand up by holding the treat just out of their reach – then, when they have learnt to stand, you can start slowly moving the treat, and you will soon find your rabbit taking its first steps on two feet to get that treat.
How to teach rabbits and guinea pigs ‘figure of eight’
If you’ve succeeded in all of these treat-leading tricks, then maybe challenge yourself by trying to teach your pet to walk a figure of eight weaving between your legs – in the same way as with Circle. With some perseverance, you’ll be amazed at what your pet can learn and remember. This is a great trick for showing off to your friends, and you’ll find that your pets are a lot more comfortable around strangers after training.
Don’t forget that the treats which you give your pets are a part of their diet, and if you’re repeating your training daily as recommended, you may need to give your pet a touch less feed each day to make up for the extra nutrition they’re getting from the frequent treats. You can further increase the effectiveness of your training by exchanging your dried treats for fresh leaves. Keeping the treats healthy is important.
How to make rabbits and guinea pigs come when called
As with many tricks, the key here is treats. Offer the treat when you are close to the pet, and say the pet’s name as you do so. Eventually, they will come to associate their name with the treat. The next step is to call your pet from further away, showing the treat. Repeat the name as they take it. Call your rabbit’s name and give them a treat after they approach. After two weeks of this regular exercise – calling, treating – try calling your pet’s name without showing the treat.
If the rabbit or guinea pig does not respond, they have not yet made the connection. Revert to the first steps, and call while showing – and giving – the treat. Once your pet has made the link, they will scurry towards you when they hear their name. There’s no harm in reinforcing this with a bonus treat now and then!
How to make rabbits and guinea pigs jump through hoops
The key to this trick is stick-training. You will also need the pet training device known as a clicker. To start training your guinea pig or rabbit– and over the first few days of training – simply hold the stick near your pet. When it turns to sniff and investigate the training stick, click the clicker and offer a treat. In time, your pet will come to associate the stick with a treat.
The next stage is to hold the hoop close to your Rabbit or guinea pig, slightly off the ground. Hold the stick on the other side of the hoop, and eventually your pet will jump through to get the treat. Guinea pigs will only manage a slight hop, whereas over time you can raise the hoop quite high for a rabbit.
How to make rabbits give you a high-5!
This is a complex one, and it is only suitable for rabbits. It involves a certain amount of ‘click training’, using a clicker.
The starting point is to sit with your rabbit and wait for it to lift a paw – they do this frequently – clicking whenever it does so. For the first few days, this is far as you’ll get – raised paw, click! You can speed thing up by offering a treat high off the ground – the rabbit will lift its nose, and then its paw. Be ready with that clicker when the paw is raised!
For the next stage, position your hand near the rabbit, on the ground. When the raised paw is put down again, it will touch your hand. As soon as it does, give the clicker a click and offer a treat. Once the rabbit begins to understand, you can move your hand further away. The key is to make the rabbit realise that the click and the treat only occur when they touch your hand.
By keeping your hand on one side of the rabbit, rather than in front, you’ll make sure the paw-to-hand contact only involves a single paw – a key detail of the high-5. The rabbit will eventually know that touching the hand delivers the treat. So, the next step is to put your hand out and wait for the rabbit to make the connection and high-5 it. Once it does, give it the click and treat treatment!
This process can take time – but it’s a great trick, and one that will genuinely amaze everyone who watches it!
Runs and platforms for rabbits and guinea pigs
One of the key ways you can enrich your pets’ lives and keep them mentally and physically fit and healthy is by getting them a proper enclosure and suitable play equipment. Giving your pets the right amount of space is essential to their wellbeing, and this is easy with custom-made Zippi Tunnels and Zippi Run Platforms. These expand the space within your run and bring the many benefits of constant exercise.
Zippi Platforms increase the daily exercise possibilities for your pets and tap into their meerkat-like instincts of getting up high and acting as a lookout. Having a fun environment goes hand in hand with good training, as your pets’ happiness and healthiness is key to their engagement in learning.
If you have a large group of rabbits or guinea pigs, training them is a great way to give your pets some individual attention – you might soon find that it’s both you and your pets’ favourite part of the day!
This entry was posted in Guinea Pigs
Older rabbits need a little extra care. But when exactly is a bunny ‘old’? It very much depends on the breed. Larger rabbits have shorter lifespans than smaller ones, which means they become senior rabbits sooner than medium and small breeds.
At what age is a rabbit considered old?
As a general rule of thumb, small rabbit breeds, which live around 12 years, are seniors when they reach 8. Medium-sized rabbit breeds live up to 10 years and can be considered senior at 6 years. The large rabbit breeds have much shorter lifespans – just 4 to 7 years – and reach old age at 4.
The shortest-lived rabbit breeds are like small pets such as gerbils, hamsters and rats, in that they only have a few months of senior status at the end of their lives.
How do you take care of an old rabbit?
Here’s how to make sure those senior rabbit years are as healthy and happy as possible.
Make sure you give them the right food
Rabbit care is largely about food, and a healthy diet is essential throughout a rabbit’s life. As your bunny gets older, you should consider buying specially formulated pellets or nuggets. There are several different brands, and they contain the optimal balance of vitamins and minerals for ageing rabbits. Older rabbits mustn’t gain too much weight – or, indeed, lose weight – during this dietary transition, so you should weigh them regularly to maintain the correct weight. In addition to the special pellets, senior rabbits should be fed lots of hay and fresh foods as usual.
Don’t add supplements to your rabbit’s diet
Rabbits get everything they need from a diet of hay, fresh food and appropriate pellets. Extra calcium, for example, can cause digestive problems or stones in the urinary tract.
Make sure your bunny gets plenty of exercise
Getting old doesn’t mean sitting around all day – rabbits of all ages need to move around to stay happy and healthy. A run will naturally allow your bunnies to hop, skip and jump, and a tunnel layout such as Omlet’s Zippi system is nothing short of essential. These run layouts keep your rabbit exercised both mentally and physically, which is all part of healthy old age. You can use rubber-backed mats on steep or slippery surfaces, to enable the rabbit to get a better grip.
Provide quiet spaces
Senior rabbits are less active than young bunnies and appreciate a quiet space away from the action. A cosy corner in the hutch will keep a tired rabbit happy, with lots of soft bedding, is essential. Incorporating ‘safe spaces’ in your run helps too. If you use a Zippi Rabbit Platform, the space created has the dual purpose of providing a quiet corner high up in the run, and also gives your pet rabbit exercise as it climbs up and down.
Keep the hutch lined with soft bedding
Senior rabbits can develop pressure points and sores or a foot condition called pododermatitis. This is caused by hard surfaces or wire meshing on the floor of a run. Good senior rabbit care means looking after sore feet!
Keep bunny claws clipped
Senior rabbits tend to move around less, and as a result their claws can soon become overlong. Regular clipping is required. If you’re not comfortable performing this, ask your vet for help.
Provide shelter from the elements
In addition to that cosy corner in the rabbit’s hutch, some weatherproofing to shield your ageing bunny from the elements will increase the comfort factor, whatever the weather. A Zippi Rabbit Run Weather Protection cover is the perfect way of keeping the worst of the weather at bay.
Carry out regular health checks
Older rabbits are prone to dental diseases and other health problems. If your bunny loses its appetite, loses weight, salivates, produces fewer droppings or has swellings around the mouth, it could be a sign of dental problems. Ask your vet to perform a thorough dental examination. Arthritis can be an issue, too, and a bunny who has slowed down may benefit from anti-inflammatory drugs. Older rabbits may also soil their back legs, and this can cause skin problems or fly infestation. Again, the vet will be able to prescribe treatments to address all aspects of your rabbit’s health.
Reduce obstacles
A rim around a litter tray, or a tunnel that rabbits have to hop over to get to the other side of the run, can cause problems in older rabbits who can no longer hop over things. Rearranging the run furniture and providing easy access to litter trays indoors is the answer.
Take your bunny for regular check-ups
The best way of keeping on top of problems is prevention. A vet will be able to spot problems before they become debilitating and will usually be able to offer remedies and advice.
Getting old is part of life. A healthy rabbit will take it in their stride, though, as long as you pay attention to the little details that make all the difference.
This entry was posted in Rabbits
Did you know that rabbits can enjoy a variety of fresh produce? In addition to their dietary staples, bunnies can safely nibble on nutritious garden vegetables and small amounts of fruit. Find out what fresh produce you should be feeding your rabbits, how much, and the benefits of offering them fresh treats.
What should I feed my bunnies?
First and foremost, rabbits should be fed a quality pellet diet made up mainly of timothy hay. The protein content should fall between 12-16% for most breeds of rabbits, and the fibre content should be at least 15%. Free choice access to loose timothy hay should always be available to help keep their digestion moving smoothly and keep their front teeth trimmed through continuous gnawing. Your rabbits should also have access to fresh, clean water at all times, which thanks to the Eglu Go Rabbit Hutch, is made easy. Simply open the single large door at the back of your rabbits’ enclosure to reveal the bedding tray and access the complimentary hay rack and water bottle.
Anything that’s offered in addition to these dietary staples should be considered treats. Fresh produce is a much healthier alternative to pre-packaged rabbit treats that are commercially available, but should still only be offered a few times a week. Rabbit-safe fruits can also be offered, but in moderation, as they are high in sugar. These foods are not readily available to wild rabbits – and while your domesticated bunnies may have all of their needs provided by you, their digestive system is still very similar to their cousins in the wild. By replicating the diet that rabbits stick to in the wild, you’ll help your pet bunnies maintain a healthy lifestyle.
Rabbit-safe fresh produce
There are several rabbit-safe foods that can be found in grocery stores, home gardens, or even in your own backyard. Fresh produce should be served in a separate feeder than their regular diet to keep their run clean. A hanging treat holder is perfect for serving up fresh foods to keep them away from insects and to give your rabbits a new angle on snacktime.
Some fresh produce is healthier than others, while some should be avoided entirely. This list isn’t comprehensive, but it includes the most common fresh produce that can be offered to rabbits.
Vegetables
Veggies can be offered several times a week, with a few exceptions. Spinach contains oxalic acid, which in high amounts can cause digestive upset in rabbits. Sweet potatoes are also a favorite among bunnies, but are very starchy, so they should be offered sparingly.
Vegetables that are safe and nutritious for rabbits include:
- Asparagus
- Bell pepper
- Broccoli
- Brussel Sprouts
- Cabbage – red, savoy and kale
- Carrot tops (more on carrots later)
- Cauliflower leaves and stalks
- Celery
- Chicory
- Cucumber
- Lettuce – romaine or green leaf
- Parsnip
- Radish
- Spinach (no more than once a week)
- Sweet potatoes (sparingly)
- Turnips
- Watercress
- Courgette
Carrots – not a rabbit’s best friend
Rabbits are so closely associated with carrots that it’s hard to fathom that they might not actually be that good for them. From Peter Rabbit to Bugs Bunny, fictional rabbits love carrots – and real bunnies love them too. But, carrots are high in sugar and calories, but lack the fibre needed for a rabbit to digest them properly. A carrot-heavy diet can cause constipation in rabbits, and make blood sugar levels rise dangerously. Carrots should be fed as fruits are – fine as an occasional treat, but only offered in moderation.
Fruits
Fruit should be offered in small amounts, no more than 1-2 times per week. Don’t offer fruit to rabbits less than 7 months of age, as their young digestive system may be upset by the sugar content.
Rabbit-friendly fruits include:
- Apples
- Bananas
- Berries – Blueberries, blackberries, raspberries, and strawberries
- Kiwi
- Melon (without the rind) – cantaloupe, watermelon and honeydew
- Pears
- Tomatoes
Herbs and plants
Wild rabbits eat a wide variety of plants, and even wood and bark. There are many forage plants that you can feed your pet rabbits, but not all native fauna is fair game. Never offer a wild plant to your rabbits unless you’re confident in identifying safe types. And, always make sure that wild plants haven’t been sprayed with fertilizers or pesticides – most of which are harmful or even fatal to rabbits.
Herbs and plants that are safe for rabbits include:
- Basil
- Berry leaves – blackberry, raspberry and strawberry
- Clover
- Dandelions – flowers and stems
- Dill
- Grass – fresh stalks, not lawn clippings that may contain other plant matter
- Mint
- Oregano
- Parsley
- Plantain
- Rose – leaves, petals, and stalks
- Rosemary
- Sunflowers
- Yarrow
Dangerous plants and vegetables
Some fresh foods are bad for bunnies. These plants affect your rabbits in many ways, ranging from mild discomfort to being toxic even in small amounts. If you suspect your rabbit has eaten any of the following, keep a close eye on them and call your veterinarian if you notice any unusual behaviour.
Never feed your rabbits:
- Aubergines
- Avocados
- Bamboo shoots
- Beans
- Chives
- Garlic
- Iceberg lettuce
- Nuts
- Onion
- Peas
- Potatoes (sweet potatoes are fine)
- Rhubarb
- Tomato leaves (in large quantities)
Feeding your rabbits with Omlet
Finding fresh produce for your rabbits is a fun way to diversify their diet and deepen your bond with them. Offering their fresh foods in a Caddi Rabbit Treat Holder keeps their rabbit hutch and run clean and reduces potential waste. Or, build your bunnies a custom burrow with our Zippi Rabbit Tunnel System and strategically place their snacks along the way. However you choose to treat your pets, we’re here to support your rabbits’ healthy habits.
This entry was posted in Rabbits
Rabbits and guinea pigs need exercise – and lots of it. Bunnies and cavies can become bored quickly without enough physical and mental stimulation, and a lack of activity can create these small pets to gain an unhealthy amount of weight. Adding levels to your rabbit or guinea pig’s enclosure through the use of platforms encourages more exercise and builds strength.
Physical and mental well-being
Exercise is important to rabbits and guinea pigs to keep them both physically and mentally fit. Keeping small animals at an appropriate weight is essential to their longevity. Accomplished through a balanced diet and plenty of space to be active, a rabbit or guinea pig kept at a healthy weight will remain active far longer than their overweight counterparts.
Omlet’s Zippi Platforms for rabbits and guinea pigs are designed to add extra space to your pet’s run. More space in their enclosure offers more opportunities for enriching activities and accessories. Teach your bunny or cavy new tricks on their platform to further stimulate their critical thinking skills.
Prevent the risk of injury and obesity
Rabbits and guinea pigs that spend the majority of their time in their enclosures aren’t able to exercise as much as their cousins in the wild. Wild cavies and hares run long distances, burrow, scurry, and don’t have constant access to food. Our pets that descended from these wild animals have slower metabolisms as a result of breeding and circumstance and rely on care from their owners to remain fit and healthy.
The use of ramps to access Zippi Platforms strengthens muscles and offers mental stimulation. Our platforms can be easily repositioned for rabbits especially to add more height. By exercising at an incline, your rabbit or guinea pig will utilize their muscles in ways that a one-dimensional enclosure can’t offer.
Overweight pets are prone to joint pain, health issues such as diabetes or other metabolic diseases, and decreased lifespan. Regular veterinary checkups can help you determine if your rabbit or guinea pig is receiving adequate nutrition and exercise. You can also do a quick check at home to see if your pet is overweight by gently pressing along the sides of your rabbit or guinea pig’s abdomen. Can you feel their ribs? You should be able to feel the distinct ridges of your pet’s ribcage without having to press too firmly. If you can’t feel their ribs, they’re likely overweight.
Along with exercise, diet is critical in keeping your rabbit or guinea pig healthy. Offer high-quality pellets that are timothy hay-based, and offer free-choice loose timothy hay or orchard grass. Treats should be given sparingly, and should consist of fresh greens rather than store-bought treats. Other guinea pig and rabbit-safe treats can be offered, but are best utilized during training sessions or other special occasions.
Platforms: a multitude of possibilities
Rabbits and guinea pigs grow bored easily in their surroundings. By adding platforms to their run, the topography of their environment can be changed regularly. Try feeding them on their platform one week, and below the platform another week. You can also place their favourite bed or toy at the top of the platform to encourage climbing up and down the ramp.
Small pets are also prey animals, which means they appreciate a higher vantage point. Your guinea pig or rabbit will appreciate the opportunity to scamper and scurry to the top of their platform to get a new look at their world.
Create the ultimate playspace for your rabbit or guinea pig. Omlet’s Zippi Platforms can be easily adjusted to a height that accommodates your pet’s personality and skill level. They can also be repositioned easily around the run to change up your bunny or cavy’s enclosure regularly. Our non-slip design builds confidence in your pets, allowing them to navigate the ramps and platforms with ease.
An easy way to have fun together
An elevated space in your rabbit or guinea pig’s run gives you a chance to interact with them on a higher level – literally! Sit with them at eye level, train on a flat and accessible surface, and customize their run with the use of Zippi Platforms. A designated training space will help you train your rabbit or guinea pig to perform tricks, giving you a clear, easily accessible area to work with your pet.
The first training opportunity you’ll find with your rabbit or guinea pig is getting them comfortable with their ramp and platform. Offer your rabbit or guinea pig’s favourite treats in a Caddi Guinea Pig or Rabbit Treat Holder placed at the top of the ramp. This will be the easiest way to help your pet get the hang of going up to the platform – especially if they are food-motivated. Once they are comfortable using their ramp and platform, you can begin teaching your rabbit or guinea pig additional skills.
Omlet and your small pets
Omlet is dedicated to designing products that thrill both pets and their owners. From unique rabbit and guinea pig shelters, to our customizable and versatile Zippi Tunnel System, we’ve got what you need to create the ultimate experience for your small pets. Foster your rabbit or guinea pig’s natural instincts while providing a visually stunning enclosure to enjoy in your yard or garden. With Omlet, owning and caring for your pets has never been easier.
This entry was posted in Guinea Pigs
Compared to a one-level play area, having an additional floor height in your rabbits’ enclosure boosts exercise opportunities, helping your rabbit activate muscles that they would use in their natural environment to climb up and down underground mazes and burrows. Jumping on and off a platform helps to keep muscles and bones strong, which is why platforms are recommended as an essential rabbit accessory by vets and pet charities. So how do you use Omlet’s Zippi Platforms with your rabbits?
What are the Zippi Platforms from Omlet?
The Zippi Rabbit Runs and Platforms from Omlet are designed to offer a modular system that you can adapt at any time. The platforms fit securely to the Zippi rabbit enclosure, so they feel safe underfoot and are waterproof so they’re easy to clean with just a garden hose and pet-safe disinfectant. Start small, and add more extensions and platforms at any time to build an amazing play area for your rabbits.
How can I give my rabbits more space?
Platforms are also an easy way of giving your rabbits more space to move around and explore. By positioning a platform in your rabbit’s enclosure, you can make better use of the height to give an even bigger area for toys and exercise. The platform gives a look out for rabbits to examine their environment from a height, plus a more exhilarating way to exercise. The area beneath feels safe for rabbits to relax and graze on hay, or if they need to shelter from bad weather.
5 ways to use the Zippi Rabbit Platforms
Need some inspiration on how you can use platforms with your pet? Take a look at our ideas below to create a fun and safe area for your rabbits to exercise.
1. Take shelter to new heights
The Zippi Platforms offer shelter below for bad weather days, but your rabbits can still make the most of the second level in their enclosure during wind and rain, with the Zippi Shelters and Play Tunnels.
With a 3-panel wide rabbit platform, you can even position a Zippi Shelter at either end and connect them together with a Play Tunnel. Or position one Shelter on the platform and one below. Don’t forget to pop some hay inside the Shelter on the platform so your rabbits can nibble away on a snack while they wait for the storm to pass.
2. L-shape suite
The Zippi Corner Platform for rabbits with a multi-panel platform pack can be used to create an L-shaped mezzanine area with 2 ramps. Depending on the length and width of your Zippi enclosure you can either position both ramps in the same direction or create a slight spiral effect.
Here we have used a Corner Platform for rabbits, attached to a Zippi Platforms 3-panel pack, in a 3 x 3 double-height Zippi Run.
3. Down and straight back up!
In a longer Zippi run, around 4 or 5 panels in length, you can position Zippi Platforms opposite each other so your rabbits can run straight down one ramp, and back up another for a loop-the-loop circuit. Don’t forget the Zippi Platforms are strong and sturdy so your rabbit will feel safe to jump and hop up and down the ramp.
4. Lunch on the balcony, sir?
Position Caddi Treat Holders to hang over the platforms so your rabbits can enjoy their lunch with a garden view. Mix up the ingredients in the slow-release feeder to keep rabbits excited, and ensure a 5-star rating for your new bunny bar! These feed toys can also be used as a hay rack to keep the floor of your rabbits’ house or play area clean.
5. Zippi Tunnel to the first floor
Combine the Zippi Platforms with our popular Zippi Rabbit Tunnel System by positioning your Zippi Tunnel entrance up on the platform level. This means your rabbits can hop up and down the Zippi Tunnel to get from one enclosure to their platforms, down the ramp and into another Zippi Run.
You can use the Zippi Platforms with a Zippi Tunnel Twin Pack with Hutch to Run Connection Kit and Zippi Tunnel Supports to connect a Zippi Run and an Eglu Go Hutch Run. Alternatively, you can connect the tunnels to your wooden rabbit house to another enclosure.
Omlet and your rabbits’ home
As a rabbit owner, it’s your responsibility to provide your rabbits with everything they need, and that includes a safe enclosure, where they can play, exercise, eat, and clean themselves. Providing a range of toys for play and exercise will help keep your rabbit happy and healthy, and with Omlet’s Zippi Platforms along with the Zippi Rabbit Tunnel System and Eglu Go rabbit hutch you can do just that, with a playground they’ll love.
This entry was posted in Rabbits
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