Enjoy collecting fresh eggs from your Eglu chicken coop!
A fresh egg every day – that’s just one of the best things about having your own flock of chickens in your garden. But it’s not that simple. For the private keeping of chickens, there are some legal frameworks and conditions you must take into consideration – and those may differ from country to country.
To receive the most accurate and timely information and policies to avoid obsolete and incorrect information, please always contact the responsible authority for a local law and/or ordinance regarding livestock and poultry or an official veterinarian as a first point of contact.
Do you need to register your chickens?
Depending on the country you live in, you might need to register your chickens. In some countries, like the UK or U.S., you must register your chickens within one month by using the compulsory registration form if you keep 50 or more birds in your premises. This is important, as if you don’t register your chickens, you’re breaking the law. The law also applies if you keep flocks made up of different species, – chickens, ducks, geese, guinea fowl, patridges, pheasants, pigeons or turkeys – and birds for the consumption of meat and eggs.
In Germany, every single chicken has to be registered directly on the first day with the responsible veterinary office and must be reported to the animal disease fund. This applies to all types of poultry. This is important in order to reduce the risk of spread of an epidemic quickly and efficiently.
How many chickens make a perfect flock?
To answer this question, one major consideration is how much space you have for your chickens and how many eggs you need.
As a mature hen lays about two eggs in three days on average, keeping three to six chickens will ensure you always have a steady supply of eggs for your family. However, if your family really loves eggs or plans to give eggs away occasionally, you may wish to consider expanding your flock.
In general, it’s good to start with at least three chickens – if there’s an unexpected death, you won’t be left with a lonely one. In a breeding flock, a rooster will need four to six hens.
Space requirements of chickens vary depending on the size and breed of the chicks, and how long you are free ranging the chickens during the day. Although it is recommended to have a minimum size of 2-3 square feet per hen, please keep in your mind, the bigger, the better!
Nevertheless, it is important to have an outdoor enclosure, like the Walk In Chicken Run, to keep your chickens safe from avian predators. Another good defense against unwanted “night visitors” is a chicken coop door. If you come home late in the evening and need an alternative way of closing them safely inside, anAutomatic Chicken Coop Door is recommended. With the control panel you can set the automatic door so that it opens and closes the coop at a certain time or based on the rising and setting sun.
The Omlet Autodoor opens horizontally, meaning it cannot simply be lifted up when it is closed by predators, so you and your chickens can sleep peacefully knowing that you have the safest automatic chicken door in the world.
If you have ground predators, you can also protect your flock with an electric poultry fencing.
Do my chickens need to be vaccinated?
Different countries have different requirements for poultry vaccinations, so check with the government environmental website or a local vet for advice. However, there are some diseases you should be aware of and may consider vaccinating against, such as the Bird Flu (e.g. Avian Influenza), Newcastle disease and Marek’s disease.
Bird Flu can infect domestic poultry and other bird and animal species. In the worst scenario, if e.g. the avian influenza affects a flock, the flock has to be put down. These viruses do not normally infect humans. For more information, please visit our blog article What You Need To Know About Avian Flu.
The Newcastle disease can vary from mild to severe and unfortunately, there is no treatment for Newcastle disease yet – but when given between 14 and 21 days of age, a vaccine can help to prevent this disease. Newcastle disease is also transmissible to humans.
Marek’s Disease is caused by a chicken herpes virus and affects the chicken’s central nervous system. Like many herpes viruses, once an animal becomes infected, it will be infected for life. However, not all infected birds will get sick. This disease isn’t contagious to humans.
For the health and safety of your chicken and flock, and to prevent the risk of spread, it is definitely recommended to vaccinate them. Especially if you plan to sell or buy chickens, you need to vaccinate your hens.
And remember: always isolate new flock members for at least 30 days!
Do I need permission for chicken keeping?
Depending on where you live, some cities and towns have restrictions and regulations on chicken keeping, for example, the number of chickens that can be kept, the minimum and maximum size of the coop in which the chickens will be housed or a minimum distance to the neighbouring property. Some areas prohibit the keeping of roosters due to the extra noise; others require that all chickens be leg-banded for identification purposes.
However, you may also be subject to by-laws, lease conditions or the deeds to your house preventing you from keeping chickens, and there are rules that may apply to back-garden poultry keepers, so be sure to check your local restrictions before buying chickens.
In addition, you might want to consider your neighbours when raising chickens. Although lots of people will be won over with the promise of fresh eggs, it might be a good idea to check with your neighbours first, and assess your gardens to ensure you’ve done all you can to prevent your hens hopping over to their vegetable patch!
The Omlet Eglu Cube houses up to 6 large hens or 10 bantams!
What are other considerations of keeping chickens in my yard?
Some regulations require you to meet some minimum requirements. In Spain, for example, the legislative provisions stipulate, you need to keep the noise level as low as possible, the chicken coop must be well illuminated and regular veterinary care must be provided.
Most suburban councils will limit the number of birds you can keep or even prohibit roosters on residential properties due to the disturbance they could cause to neighbours.
Australia is an interesting example of how different local restrictions can be. In Victoria, residences with backyards can have a maximum of five chickens, whereas New South Wales allows no more than 10 chickens in residential areas. In Western Australia, owners can keep up to 12 poultry birds. Furthermore, it is prohibited to keep roosters in general in Queensland, New South Wales and Western Australia.
Even the height of the perch where your chooks sleep on is set at around 30 cm off the ground.
Although there are many different regulations andlaws when it comes to chicken keeping, there is one inevitable rule which applies to all countries and local areas: chickens need access to fresh bedding, food and water at all times!
Always be sure you are in accordance with local ordinances and up-to-date before embarking on your chicken-keeping endeavor, especially as policies and law can change. Obtaining information such as the correct local hen house keeping (farming method for laying hens) or the examination of species-appropriate hen houses is important, – each country has its own animal welfare requirements and regulations, and should not be ignored.
Cockerels have three main purposes in a flock of chickens. They protect the hens by warning of any danger, they enable you to breed your own chicks, and they look fabulous. Sometimes, however, the cockerel’s protective instincts becomes a problem, and the bird becomes over-aggressive. This can be a particular issue in the spring, which is the breeding season.
Cockerels are wired to protect their hens. If you watch the flock foraging in a garden, the loud clucking of a hen will bring the cockerel running to make sure everything’s okay. If a hen squawks when you pick her up, the cockerel will put on an aggressive display until you put her down again. As long as this doesn’t involve physical attacks, there’s no problem. Some cockerels will physically attack, though.
If these face-offs continue, the cockerel might decide that you – and all humans – represent danger and will try to fight you off at all times. Luckily, you can usually defuse the situation.
Cockerels give warning of their intention to attack. They lower their heads and perform a strutting dance while looking straight at you. Things get trickier if the cockerel decides to run up and attack your legs, like an angry farmyard goose. If you’re walking away, the cockerel may chase you from the yard, and that can cause nasty surprises too.
How Do You Stop a Rooster From Attacking You?
Don’t walk straight towards the cockerel when you enter the place where the chickens are kept.
Don’t stare at the cockerel unless he’s already behaving aggressively, as this is a sign of aggression as far as he’s concerned – you’re fixing your eyes on him and his flock just like a predator would.
Don’t tiptoe around or run away if the cockerel looks at you, as these are signs that you’re afraid, and the cockerel might take this as a cue to rush in and finish the job!
Don’t dash around the yard – the cockerel equates quick movements with predators. Go about your business in the chicken yard in a calm, slow but focused way.
Make sure your hens are in a stress-free environment. If there are prowling dogs or unruly children running amongst the hens, their clucks and squawks will send the rooster into overdrive to protect his girls.
If your cockerel brings you small ‘gifts’ such as stones or twigs, don’t be too flattered. He is treating you like a hen, and you will have to refuse the gifts and shoo him away, otherwise he will think he’s subdued you with his presents!
Don’t crowd the cockerel. If he feels trapped in a corner, he is likely to fight his way out.
How to Handle an Aggressive Cockerel
Never respond to an angry cockerel with violence.
This will have no positive effect on the cockerel or flock’s behaviour afterwards, and it can result in serious injury to the bird. He may be aggressive, but a cockerel is still a bird, fragile bones and all.
A cockerel should be lifted with thick protective gloves to remove him to a safe place or away from the eye of the storm. Your arms and legs shouldn’t be bare when handling the rooster, and your footwear should be sturdy too. If the cockerel is only in the early stages of aggression, he can often be calmed down with a few treats. It is a good idea to carry treats with you whenever you’re in the same place as the cockerel. After you’ve fed him a few times, he will come to associate you with treats rather than danger. The treats should be hand-offered. If you throw them down and then run away, the rooster will recognise that you’re afraid, and the problems might continue.
A more hands-on – or feet-on – method is to gently roll the cockerel over with your safely booted foot when he approaches you looking for trouble. After a few of these gentle wrestling throws, the cockerel will realise that you’re the top bird in the run and give you no more trouble. In theory, at least!
How to Lift an Angry Cockerel
Alternatively, when the cockerel tries to peck you, scoop him up with your gloved hands and hold him like you would hold a hen, under your arm. The cockerel will flap and squawk angrily, but he will eventually calm down if you ignore these protestations. This may take 10 to 15 minutes, but it’s time well spent if it means that the cockerel will not attempt to attack you again.
If the cockerel has not yet attacked, you may be able to deter him by taking a large, deliberate step towards him, looking at him as you do so. If the rooster starts to fidget and looks at the ground or starts pecking it, you have won the battle, and you can back down without fear of attack.
The key to all these methods is to make the cockerel realise that you’re not a threat to his hens. Protecting the flock is all he wants to do. If that doesn’t work, and if the cockerel starts to stretch his wings and neck ready for attack, stretch out your arms. Carrying a stick can help here, as it makes your ‘wingspan’ look even greater in the rooster’s eyes.
Treat holders and peck toys will keep your chickens entertained for hours!
What is the Most Aggressive Rooster?
Circumstantial evidence suggests that some cockerels are just born mean! In these cases, the cockerel’s instinct to protect a flock of hens is in constant overdrive. The aggression is occasionally seen when the birds are still chicks, although it is more usual for the aggression to kick in at 6 to 8 months old. Although the breed of the chicken makes a certain amount of difference, even supposedly gentle breeds can sometimes decide to take no prisoners in the chicken yard!
The most aggressive rooster breeds are said to be Aseel (allegedly the biggest bullies of all), Cornish, Leghorn, Malay, Old English Game and all other traditional ‘cockfighting’ or ‘game’ species.
What is the Least Aggressive Rooster?
The least aggressive roosters include the Australorp, Brahma, Polish, Silkie and Welsummer. Bantam breeds tend to be relatively calm, too. However, there are occasional ‘bad pennies’ in all breeds, and some cockerels just seem to hit an aggressive streak and never entirely leave it behind.
Constantly aggressive roosters are a real problem, especially if you have children wandering in the garden. A cockerel readily backs up his anger with a physical attack, and he is armed with sharp spurs – the spikes on his legs – that can do real damage. If all attempts to calm the cockerel down fail, the tyrant rooster will have to be rehoused.
If you have chosen a non-aggressive breed of cockerel, and if your chickens have lots of space, you will seldom have major problems with rooster aggression. Let cockerels know who’s boss as soon as they hit adulthood, never accept those tempting little gifts, and you should be recognised by all your chickens as being top of the pecking order.
Bird flu, also known as avian influenza, is back in the headlines, and new restrictions have been imposed on chicken keepers. In these circumstances, it is natural to ask whether wild birds present a major risk.
Wild birds are not the main source of the spread of the disease, however, even though they can act as reservoirs for the virus. It is human commercial activities associated with poultry farming that are the major cause of the bird flu’s spread across the world. If you are keeping just a few chickens, most of the risks can be avoided by simple hygiene and protective housing measures.
Avian influenza (bird flu)
As its name suggest, the avian flu virus is a form of influenza (flu) biologically adapted to bird hosts. Avian influenza is not a virus specific to chickens and poultry, and in theory any bird, wild or domestic, can be infected. The disease is always been at large somewhere in the world, and the safety risk for UK wild birds and bird keepers is currently quite high.
Bird flu – good news and bad news
In theory, any species of wild bird can catch the flu. Waterfowl such as geese, swans and ducks are thought to be major carriers of the disease, sometimes displaying no symptoms themselves. Chickens that come into contact with avian influenza are likely to catch it.
But let’s look at the good news first. The risk to human health from wild bird diseases, including avian influenza, are extremely low. In 99.9% of cases, humans affected by the highly virulent H5N1 strain of the bird flu have caught it from intensively reared poultry. The disease is not easily transmitted from human to human, and there have been no cases of avian influenza in humans in the UK, in spite of the safety risk for UK birds currently classed as high.
Similarly, chickens that are kept in runs and subject to common sense precautions are unlikely to catch the disease. Unless you live in an area suffering a major avian influenza outbreak, the visitors to your bird table are unlikely to be carriers of the disease.
Now for the bad news… If only one wild bird in a thousand is a carrier of avian influenza, that’s still one too many. Like it or not, backyard chickens are at risk. This is why new rules and new housing measures were introduced in December 2020.
What are the new rules for keeping chickens due to bird flu?
On 14 December 2020 it became a legal requirement for all poultry keepers, regardless of the size of the flock, to keep their birds indoors and follow strict biosecurity measures to combat the spread of avian influenza. A joint statement from the three Chief Veterinary Officers announced:
“Whether you keep just a few birds or thousands, from 14 December onwards you will be legally required to keep your birds indoors or take appropriate steps to keep them separate from wild birds. We have not taken this decision lightly, but it is the best way to protect your birds from this highly infectious disease.”
All poultry keepers must implement these new housing measures and precautions until further notice:
House all poultry and captive birds, or keep them in a run or fenced-off area outdoors
Cover the runs or pens with a solid top to minimise wild bird droppings entering the enclosure
Do not allow people other than the owners to enter the run or enclosure
Implement effective vermin control (rats, etc) as these animals can spread disease
Disinfecting clothing, footwear, equipment and other items used for cleaning the chicken coop and run, along with the feeders, drinkers, etc.
Use the same pair of boots when entering the run or enclosure, and do not use this footwear for any other purpose (walking, shopping, etc)
Make sure the chickens’ feed and water is separate from wild birds
Keep weed wild bird tables and feeding stations away from the chicken run
Avian flu in wild birds
The chances of a human catching avian influenza directly from birds that visit the garden are practically nil. This is no reason to avoid basic precautions, however, especially if you keep chickens. Keeping bird feeding stations clean is important, to avoid droppings and moulds accumulating. These can impact the health of wild birds and lower their immune systems. You should always wash your hands after restocking or cleaning a feeding station, or after any situation that brings you into contact with bird droppings (feeding the ducks in the local park, for example).
Sick or dead wild birds should not be touched. In general, you do not need to report the discovery of a dead bird. However, if dead ducks, geese, swans, gulls or birds of prey should be reported, as should the discovery of five or more dead birds of any species in one place. In these situations, contact the Defra helpline (03459 335577; 0300 200 7840 in Northern Ireland).
How do I know if my chicken has bird flu?
Chickens with avian influenza will display various symptoms. They may be less active than usual, and will lose their appetite and show signs of nervousness. Their egg production will drop, and eventually their combs and wattles will look swollen, with a blue discoloration. Other avian influenza symptoms in poultry include coughs, sneezes and diarrhoea. Unfortunately, many of these avian influenza symptoms are associated with other ailments, too, so a vet will need to make the diagnosis.
It can take 14 days for an avian influenza outbreak to spread throughout a flock. Some infected birds may exhibit no signs, even though they are still potential virus carriers. Others may sicken and die very quickly.
How to treat avian flu in chickens
You can reduce the risk of avian influenza in your poultry by following the latest guidelines issued by Defra and the government. The NFU has a very useful page containing guidance and the latest news regarding bird flu.
Vaccination of a flock at risk from the avian influenza virus is the only method of prevention. If avian influenza affects a flock, the flock has to be put down.
“All bird keepers (whether you have pet birds, commercial flocks or just a few birds in a backyard flock) must keep a close watch on them for signs of disease and maintain good biosecurity at all times. If you have any concerns about the health of your birds, seek prompt advice from your vet.”
The main takeaway messages
The new rules about housing chickens apply to everyone
Feeding wild birds in the garden is still safe
Simple precautions and good cleaning regimes minimise the dangers
How cold is too cold for chickens? Chickens can tolerate cold weather, however, baby chicks are less likely to do so. The primary concern in cold temperatures is whether your chickens are becoming wet. If they are and cannot dry off, this can be cause for concern.
Our guide walks you through the optimum temperatures for chickens, how to care for your hens in winter, and which breeds are the most hardy.
How cold is too cold for chickens?
Chickens will regulate their temperature and behavior accordingly, so wherever humans can live, chickens can thrive too. Chickens can tolerate cold even under freezing temperatures. This makes caring for chickens in winter relatively simple, as only a few adjustments to your usual routine will need to be made. It is the combination of cold and wet that can prove fatal, so it’s vital to ensure your hens have a dry chicken coop. Any of your birds that become soaked should be toweled dry. Applying Vaseline to their combs will prevent frostbite and help them tolerate the cold.
Ideal temperatures for adult chickens
While chickens can tolerate the cold, their preferred weather is in the 70 degrees Fahrenheit range. You’ll find that your adult chickens can survive cold temperatures into the teens. However, we recommend keeping a thermometer in your coop to track its temperature. You should find that the insulation of your coop and the warmth created by the chickens themselves is enough to help them tolerate the cold.
Ideal temperatures for baby chicks
Baby chicks are far more sensitive to cold temperatures and are not able to tolerate them as well as full-grown hens. This is both due to their smaller size and the fact their feathers are not yet fully developed to keep them warm. When your chicks firsthatch you should keep them at around 90-95 degrees Fahrenheit. After this you can reduce the temperature they’re kept at around 5 degrees a week until you get into the 70 – 75 Fahrenheit range.
Keep your chickens’ coop warm & cozy
The type of coop you have makes a big difference in how cold your chickens will tolerate. In really cold winters, a wooden coop with a drafty coop door can soon become damp and semi-frozen – not to mention very drafty. This dampness combined with the cold weather will make winter more difficult for be more tricky for your flock to tolerate.
On the other hand, a more robust state-of-the-art chicken coop such as the Eglu will keep out the cold and damp – enabling chickens to tolerate the cold weather after a busy day in their run. You’ll find that an Eglu will stay much warmer during the winter than a wooden coop. The temperature in the Eglu will remain moderate when all the hens are tucked in at night. Our Eglus are insulated by design, but if the winter becomes colder than usual you can easily add extreme weather protection to further insulate your coop.
You can help your backyard chickens keep warm in the frost and help them weather the cold by making sure the coop is clean and dry. Clear out any snow dragged in on the hens’ feet and keep an insulating layer of straw on the floor. Doing this will help your chickens to tolerate the colder weather. If you also insulate your chicken runs, there should still be some ventilation, to allow the gasses released from the birds’ droppings to escape.
An automatic door will help keep the living quarters cozy, too. It’s not advised to install a coop heater – even those rated for hen houses. Hens may get used to being overly warm all the time, which could be disastrous if the heater fails. Heat-pampered poultry can die of shock when introduced to lower temperatures, as they will not have become acclimated to tolerating the cold.
4 signs your chicken is too cold
When ensuring your chickens will tolerate the cold, it’s important to know the signs for when the weather may have made them uncomfortable. Here’s what to look out for:
Ruffled feathers
Perched off the ground
One leg tucked up
Wattles and combs are paler than usual
These are not signs of distress, and as long as the chicken is only having a brief rest, rather than staying hunkered up for the whole day, you don’t have to worry. If hens go off their feed, appear to be in shock, or have discolored (blue or black) combs, wattles or feet, it’s time to bring them inside to warm up slowly.
Keeping chickens dry in cold temperatures
While chickens can tolerate the cold, they should not be allowed to remain soaking wet. This is more dangerous than the outdoor temperature or the falling snow – and in extreme cases will result in hypothermia. Any affected hens will be stiff and cold to the touch, with their eyes wide and unblinking, or closed. If you find one of your chickens in this state, take them indoors and wrap them in a warm towel. When they recover, put them in a bedding-lined box in a warm spot for a few hours.
What happens if a chick gets too cold?
Chicks are less tolerant of the cold and are more susceptible to lower temperatures than adult chickens. If a young chicken has its full coat of feathers, it will be as tolerant of the cold as the older birds. Chicks, however, will need protection from the cold, and should be kept under an appropriate heat lamp. Any chick left to fend for itself in cold weather will die.
Tips for cold weather chicken care
Chickens can usually tolerate adapting to colder climates, but how can you tell when your flock needs a bit of help keeping warm? The following tips will help you keep happy, healthy chickens this winter:
Prevent water from freezing – Check it at least twice a day to keep it clear of ice. If a freeze is forecast, bring thechicken waterersindoors at night. If possible, buy a water heater designed for the job of preventing freezing. Ping-pong balls in the water can also prevent freezing.
Chickens usually return to the coop at dusk, but in the winter, you may find your birds trying to get more pecking time from the short days. If your hens tend to wander in the dark, a high visibility hen coat will help you locate them. The coats also keep the birds cozy, so it’s a double blessing in the Winter to help chickens tolerate the cold.
Providing weather-proof shelter in the chicken run will give the hens some respite while tolerating the cold. You can use chicken run covers to do this.
Some extra corn offered as a chicken treat before the hen’s bedtime will stoke their internal heater as the chickens digest it overnight. In general, hens will eat more food in the cold months to tolerate the cold, as more of their energy is spent keeping warm.
Protect combs and wattles – from frostbite with petroleum jelly or Vaseline.
Specially made coop heaters or brooder plates can be placed in enclosed spaces such as barns or garages for hens that are struggling in the cold, but should be used sparingly. And, these should only be used for a short amount of time, and only if someone will be home to avoid a potential fire-hazard.
If you do not have a cozy Eglu, a wooden coop can be insulated with bubble-wrap, cardboard or old carpets or blankets.
Extra bedding on the floor of the coop will help the chickens tolerate the cold, too.
Some owners like to supplement their chickens’ diets with extra protein or a little suet, to increase their fat levels for the Winter. Fat retains heat, and the whole bird benefits from the added nutrition.
How do chickens naturally keep warm in the winter?
The chicken’s secret to tolerating the cold is natural insulation. Their feathers help them retain body heat and warm the air trapped beneath their downy base feathers. When they’re at rest, a hen’s body temperature is 104–107F, with their heart rate of around 400 beats per minute – evidence of a high metabolism that sets up the birds very well for winter weather.
Watching hens scratch at the frozen ground or strut through the snow, you might wonder how chickens manage to keep their feet and legs warm. After all, this is one part of their body with no feathers to keep it cozy (unless you happen to have a feathery-legged breed such as the Cochin, Brahma or Silkie). The answer lies in the chicken’s leg scales, which retain heat to a certain extent. The average chicken will always be on the move, not keeping all its toes on the ground for too long.
Does perching help chickens tolerate the cold?
Like many other birds, chickens often adopt the ‘one leg’ pose in the winter, tucking one of their limbs up into the warmth of their bellies. This reduces overall heat loss and stops feet and toes from freezing on the icy ground. Like all birds, chickens are warm-blooded, and their own body heat soon works its magic to help them tolerate the cold.
Perching is the most effective way for a chicken to retain body heat and tolerate the cold. Hens hunker down when roosting, with their feathers fluffed up and their legs tucked into her warm body. If space allows, install a flat perch in your coop or run. This will enable the hens to roost without having to curl their toes around the roosting bar, which will prevent their toes from freezing in very cold weather. An upturned pot, a log, pallet or other slightly elevated space will give the birds a flat surface to perch on, to escape the ice and snow.
Can chickens freeze to death?
Chickens can usually tolerate cold conditions and will not die, as long as they have a warm coop to retreat into when the weather becomes extreme. Cold hens may be more susceptible than usual to illness and parasites, though, and their egg production will fall. But, most chickens will simply hunker down on chicken perches and in nesting boxes, with their feathers fluffed out to weather the winter.
The best chicken breeds for cold weather
While most chickens can tolerate the cold, there are some chicken breeds that are more suited to cold climates than others. Here are the top 5 for cold temperatures:
Omlet can help you care for your chickens and ensure they’re enjoying each season to the fullest. From chicken pens to run around in, to toys such as chicken swings to keep them entertained, you’re sure to find everything you need to keep your flock healthy and happy all year round!
It’s nice to have chickens in your garden but they need to stay there! Seeing them fly away and attempting to catch them again is not necessarily the easiest of tasks. It’s stressful for everyone and sometimes even dangerous for your chickens! So what is the solution? Cut off their wings? Obviously not, but here are a number of flap busting techniques that may help to keep your feathery friends on the ground.
Why Does My Chicken Want to Fly Away?
If you are dealing with a runaway chicken it could be for several reasons. Each chicken’s character is different from one bird to another. While some like to lounge under a tree or in their chicken run, others prefer to frolic in search of freedom. This traveling and sometimes adventurous spirit can be associated with certain breeds of chickens. So, it’s not uncommon to find breeds such as the Leghorn or the Gauloise, for example, perched on a branch to rest. This is mainly due to their lighter weight in comparison to other breeds. Evolved with a fairly developed herd instinct, it only takes one chicken to take flight for the rest to follow suit.
However, sometimes your chickens may fly away, or even jump, not to rest but to escape a situation. A sudden or unusual situation can induce panic. A visit from a dog, the presence of a wild predator such as a fox, or the triggering of an unexpected high pitched noise can stress your hens and cause them to flee. They then have two options: run or try to fly. Under stress, fear and panic they can easily surprise you and fly higher than you think. They may even injure themselves in a panic to get away. So how do you avoid this kind of situation?
How Can I Prevent My Chicken From Flying Away?
There are three main precautions that can be taken when you have a flight-happy chicken:
Choose a quiet but well placed area in your garden to set up your chicken coop. If you have space, keep the chicken coop away from potential dangers: roads, parking areas, children’s toys. Here, your chickens should feel safe. Their chicken coop is their home, they need to be able to eat, peck and sleep in peace.
Invest in a fairly large enclosure. Having a high enough fence can deter them from trying to fly and protect them from potential animal attacks and external dangers. An enclosed space, like the Walk in Chicken Run, is ideal for giving chickens a safe area to exercise and stretch their wings, without escape.
The third precaution is often known to chicken owners, but it is not often applied. However, this is an elementary precaution when bringing a bird into a chicken coop. It regards cutting the feathers of a single wing in order to unbalance your chicken and stop them from being able to take flight. But how to do it? Take a pair of clippers and cut the flight feathers, that is, the larger feathers. You can also cut the primary and secondary flight feathers. The feathers must be cut halfway for it to be effective. Rest assured, we only cut Keratin (what our hair and nails are made of). It’s like going to the hairdressers!
Find the tutorial video “How to Clip your Chickens Wings (Safe and painless) (Easy to do)” by here.
Providing a comfortable living space, and large, safe enclosure will keep your hens happy and healthy in their home. And if necessary, wing clipping can be an effective solution for particularly determined escapees.
Most chicken keepers will fall into the eventually of “chicken math”. First, it was three, then four and now you’re thinking an eighth hen wouldn’t hurt…right? The idea of having flockmate best friends sounds great, but being the same species isn’t always enough for chickens to live in harmony. Certain chickens get along better than others, but which breeds make for besties?
Normal chicken behaviour
All different breeds of chicken have been developed from the same ancestor, the Asian Jungle Fowl, and so fortunately, most chickens get along, regardless of the variety. However, there are some exceptions to this general rule.
Any new hen introduced to a flock will need to be separated from the other birds, but still be able to see them through a fence, for a week or so until all the birds get used to each other. Once introduced, they will find their natural place in the chicken pecking order, and that may involve a little bullying and squabbling in the early days. This is all very natural and has nothing to do with feuds between specific breeds.
Occasionally, one hen will fall out with another for no obvious reason, and the weaker chicken will sometimes be pecked and harassed by the more aggressive bird. If this situation continues for more than three days after introducing the new chicken, the two combatants may need to be separated.
What breeds of chickens are aggressive?
Some chicken varieties are more confident and assertive than others, but this does not make them aggressive. Aggression is usually the result of environment – poor living conditions – or visual stimulus. The chicken bullying only usually persists beyond the first few days if the new hen has unusual plumage on its head. The fancy crown of feathers on the Araucana, Houdan, Poland, Silkie and Sultan breeds, for example, is like a red rag to a bull for some hens.
The reasons for this aggression are purely instinctive. Chickens respond to the size of their fellow birds’ combs, and there is evidence that larger-combed chickens tend to dominate the pecking order and will challenge any large-combed newcomer to assert and retain her dominance. No one is entirely sure how the visual stimulus works with feather-crowned breeds. A chicken with feathers on its head is judged by the other hens to be one of two things – either a bird with a very large comb, and therefore a threat, or one with no comb at all, which makes it fair game for some bullying. Whichever way a hen looks at it, the feather-headed newcomer is a direct challenge to the dominant birds.
Birds with fancy head feathers are additionally vulnerable because the plumage flops in front of their eyes, impairing their vision, and so they may not spot an oncoming attack. This can result in pecks and injuries.
Other causes of chicken bullying
Other unusual feathering will occasionally inspire bullying amongst chickens, such as the feathered ‘trousers’ of the Faverolles. This is not generally a problem, though, and this breed should get along well with your other hens.
Sometimes, new chickens with no unusual feathers or peculiar combs may be picked on if they are a different breed from all the other hens in the flock. The bullying appears to take place simply because the new chicken looks different to the others. This is an unusual issue, though, and clearly, the problem disappears if your existing hens are a mixed breed flock.
Do chickens bond with each other?
In general, mixing breeds actually assists with the pecking order and the general bonding, as different varieties have different temperaments. There is more likely to be squabbling in a run that has chickens of a single breed – they may all be assertive and dominant, or they may all be shrinking violets, depending on the breed, but they still need to establish a pecking order.
The body size of the hen does not affect how it is treated. A dainty bantam can rub along fine with a hulking Sussex, and a cockerel will be respectful of all his hens, regardless of their breed, and in the vast majority of cases the birds will all get on well together.
There are other practical considerations when keeping a mixed flock. Some chickens thrive in cold weather, while others are not as robust. Age may be an issue too, if you want to minimize the number of changes in your chicken flock. This isn’t to say chickens of different ages can’t get along but older chickens are more likely to bully other flock members. If possible, wait until your younger birds are close in size before moving them in.
What chicken breeds get along best?
Some breeds are naturally friendly, and these varieties are far less likely to start pecking and bullying each other. Super-chilled backyard chickens include Australorps, Cochins, Easter Eggers, Rhode Island Reds, Silkies, Sussex and Wyandottes.
Omlet and your flock
Whether you’ve got a flock of ten or two, Omlet has the products to support the needs of your chickens. Keep your hens mentally and physically stimulated to help them live in harmony with our range of chicken toys and accessories to add to your chicken coop and chicken run.
Only very tame pet hens enjoy being picked up. Most chickens find the whole procedure stressful, so you should only catch or handle them if you have to.
There are a few reasons why you might need to know how to catch a chicken. Your hens might be in danger, might require a clean-up after coming into contact with something oily or sticky, or you might need to carry out a chicken health check.
There are various ways to catch a chicken. If the hen is in danger as a result of escaping onto a road or into a garden with a dog in it, you can usually manage things by ‘herding’ the chicken rather than trying to lift it. If a dog is the problem, controlling or confining the dog is the first thing to sort out. If the hen has escaped and you need to catch her, guiding her back to safety by standing with your arms stretched out to the sides and encouraging her to return to the chicken coop is the best option. In these situations, the chicken will desperately want to find her fellow hens, so ‘steer’ her towards the hole in the fence or the open gate, or whichever escape route she took.
If the hen has flapped over a wall, however, you may have to resort to old fashioned hunting techniques for catching chickens.
How Do You Catch a Stray Chicken?
If your hens are very tame, you can simply offer some treats, bend down and pick them up. If only it were that easy with every chicken! Some are about as easy to catch as a fast-moving bar of wet soap – they can sprint at speeds of around 9 miles (14.5 km) per hour – and you will usually have to corner them first if you want to catch them.
If a hen has escaped or you spot her running away, or simply hidden somewhere in a large garden or meadow where you can find to trace of her, the best approach is to be patient and rely on the chicken’s homing instinct. As dusk begins to fall, the hen will instinctively head back to the coop. This is one of the handy things about keeping poultry!
The Best Way to Catch a Chicken
Do chickens like being picked up? In general, the answer is no. But if you’re trying to catch a chicken for whatever reason there are various ways of doing so. Not all of them can be recommended for the non-expert chicken keeper.
Using a net to catch chickens. Nets can be dangerous tools, as a chicken’s claws can snag in the netting, causing injury. If you opt for this method, the chickens should be netted as quickly as possible to minimise stress – although forever afterwards the sight of that net will send the poor hen into a panic! You should always use as large a net as possible for catching your chickens. A blanket may offer a safer way to catch them.
Using crate traps for catching chickens. Putting irresistible treats into a crate, and then slyly closing the door with a pole or long stick is an effective method. The main drawback is that all the other chickens will be tempted to take a look inside too!
Boxes for catching chickens. A large box can be placed over a cornered bird in the coop or run, and the flaps can be tucked in to secure the chicken. This technique can be useful if you need to capture chickens in daylight (although it works at night, too) and if they tend to be aggressive.
Torchlight makes chickens easier to catch. This is the simplest and most effective method when you need to trap a roosting chicken. When chickens are with the rest of the flock in the coop or run on their roosting bars or perches or in their nesting boxes at night, they instinctively stay put. If you open the top of the coop and shine a torch in (head-mounted ones are perfect), you’ll be able to pinpoint the hen you need to examine, and grab her up with minimal fuss.
Picking Up the Chicken
When picking up the hen, try to be firm but not rough. Getting a good grip and preventing the wings from flapping is the key. The correct method is to hold the chicken by placing your hand over its back, confining the wings, and then bring it close to your body. If the bird is very nervous, you may have to cover her with a towel to calm her down.
A tame hen is the easiest type of chicken to capture. Simply lure the hen in with a few treats, and grab her, stroking her back to reassure her. Once the cleaning or the examination is over, put the chicken on the ground and step back. She will do the rest, scuttling back to the safety of the flock.
So, there are several ways to catch a chicken, but you should only put them into operation when you definitely need to catch one. Try to avoid the poultry hook or net if you can, and use the method that suits both the chicken and the circumstances.
Moving house is stressful for everyone involved – and that includes pets and chickens. As far as your hens are concerned, the secret to a successful relocation is to have everything ready at the other end. In the same way as you might unpack a kettle and two mugs before opening any of the big boxes, the chicken shed and run should be ready in the garden before the first kettle boils!
Hens are prone to stress, and at the very least you can expect the egg count to plummet for a few days following a move. Weak or very nervous chickens are in particular danger, as panic can make them flap blindly and break legs, or even kill themselves. Minimising stress is therefore the key to a successful move.
The most stress-free way to get your hens ready for the move is to collect and crate/box them from the coop, rather than later in the day when they are out and about and need chasing and cornering. That is not a good way to minimise stress!
Transporting Chickens
Your hen-carriers need to be covered, well-ventilated boxes or pet crates. They should have enough space for the birds to turn around in (to prevent them from panicking at the confined space), while being dark enough to make their instincts kick in and help them snuggle down for the duration of the trip. On longer journeys, however, you will need to have enough light in the boxes to enable the hens to feed, and pet crates will make this easier.
You’ll need one box per chicken, generally, so make sure you have enough boxes for the big day. Hens with similar, placid temperaments can be transported in a single box. Each box or crate should be lined with straw to soak up the droppings, and the boxes should be stacked securely, not more than three boxes high.
It’s important that the birds don’t get too hot on the journey, so ventilation is an issue. If you only have two or three hens, they could travel on the back seat of a well-ventilated car, secured with quilts or blankets – or even seatbelts – to prevent the boxes from sliding around.
The journey itself should be taken using as many straight, non-bumpy roads as possible, combined with the need to make the trip as brief as you can. If your new home is a short stretch of motorway and a couple of A-roads away, that’s all very straightforward. Rural locations with lots of windy-road options will need more planning. If all the roads are B-roads with lots of bends, the quickest route is the best option.
In the two weeks before the move, make sure your hens’ diet is rich in all the required vitamins and minerals. Some owners recommend adding probiotics or extra vitamins to the feed, and this is something you should discuss with your vet.
For short journeys, you will not have to worry about chicken feed. On longer trips, though, food will need to be provided. Make sure you take a long break at least every three hours, to allow the confined birds to settle down and feed. If you are transporting the hens in crates, you can attach a water dispenser to the side.
A Portable Chicken Coop?
Old fashioned chicken coops can be tricky to transport, and many hen keepers prefer to erect a new run and chicken shed at their new property. This sometimes involves housing the birds in temporary accommodation while the new coop and run are being sorted out.
There are ways of avoiding the inconvenience, though. A portable coop and run can be packed away and then installed in the new garden in a few minutes, and they have the advantage of familiarity. Hens introduced into a coop that they already know inside out will reduce the stress of the move enormously.
Coops and runs such as the Eglu are ideal in this respect. Placing the coop in your new garden as soon as you arrive will enable the chickens to feel at home before you’ve even managed to open any of your removal boxes. Human will inevitably feel the stress of the moving-in process, but the hens don’t have to!
The process isn’t quite over when your hens are safely cooped up in the new garden. Stress can cause any underlying diseases to bloom, so you need to carry out daily health checks on your birds as the flock settles down in its new surroundings. This is yet another reason to consider a pack-and-go portable coop and run.
As with all pets, chickens rely on their owners for their safety and wellbeing. But as humans, vacations, spontaneous trips, and other time away from home are inevitable. So how will your chickens manage while you’re away?
Chickens are fairly self-sufficient, and do well when left alone. They don’t have separation anxiety from their owners like some pets experience, and can entertain themselves as long as they have their flock for company. Chickens will also regulate their feed intake and not overeat if free-choice food is left out for them. Still, they are prey animals, and certain considerations need to be taken into account before you take an extended leave of absence – particularly if no one will be staying with them while you’re away.
How long can I leave my chickens alone for?
Every chicken keeper does things a little differently from another, so the amount of time you can spend away from your flock is largely dependent on how you have them setup. Do they free-range, or are they always in a coop and run? Do you have an automatic door to tuck them in at night? Do you leave feed out, or feed them a portion daily?
When you prepare your chickens for your absence, you’ll need to make sure they have access to plenty of food and water. You’ll also need to make sure that they stick to their regular schedule as closely as possible. If they’re accustomed to free-ranging during the day and being closed in at night, you’ll need to have a safe, contained space large enough to simulate free-ranging.
An Eglu Cube chicken coop connected to a walk in chicken run is a great option for chickens that are accustomed to free-ranging, or for flocks that crave space during their time out of the coop. The run can be extended to however large you’d like to make it, so space is never an issue. And with the anti-dig skirting, predators will be deterred from coop-crashing while you’re away!
Give the setup and routine that you plan to have while you’re away a trial run before you leave to make sure everything goes smoothly. If any changes need to be made before you leave, you’ll want to give your flock ample time to adjust. Chickens will adapt quickly, so if your trial run was a success, your chickens should be just fine if you’re gone over the weekend.
Should I get a chicken sitter?
Leaving chickens alone for a day or two is commonplace for most flock-raisers, but if you are gone longer than that, it’s a good idea to have someone come and check on your chickens while you’re away. Depending on the time of the year, chickens can go through their feed and water quickly, and one misplaced step or a visit from some neighbourly mice can empty a food or water container in a hurry!
Consider asking a neighbour or a family friend that enjoys chickens to stop by and check in with your hens. A quick glance is often all it takes to ensure your flock is thriving while you’re away. You can always offer for them to take whatever eggs your hens have laid while you’re away as repayment and token of your (and your hens’) thanks!
If you have an automatic chicken coop door, be sure to let your chicken sitter know what time it opens and closes, or ask if they have a preferred time to go and check on your flock. Make sure to reprogram your automatic chicken coop door (if open or close times need to be adjusted) well in advance to get your hens accustomed to a different bedtime if necessary!
What do my chickens need while I’m away?
Food and water
Make sure to fill all of your chickens’ feeders and waterers before you leave. If possible, anchor any free-standing feeders or waterers to the sides of the run or coop to prevent them from being knocked over. Keep waterers sheltered from blowing debris to prevent them from getting clogged.
Prep for different weather
Consider the time of year you are leaving and plan accordingly. Always prepare for precipitation – even if there isn’t any in the weather forecast! Make sure your chicken run cover is on to provide shade and protection from rain.
Entertainment
If your flock is used to daily visits and treats from you, they will likely miss it while you’re away! To head off any treat-pining or fear of missing out on playdates, offer some fun alternatives such as a Chicken Swing or a variety of chicken toys to keep them occupied. To really stay in their good graces, set out some treats in a chicken peck toy or Caddi Treat Holder. Your flock might not even notice you’re gone!
Good to go
With proper preparation and planning, travelling can still be part of your lifestyle when you have chickens. The easiest way to maintain a flexible schedule with chickens is to create a setup that allows for flexibility from the beginning.
It’s always easiest to start off with the ideal setup for your flock so that your future travel plans don’t interfere with their routine. Large chicken coops with walk in runs, automatic chicken coop doors, and weather protection are all components of raising happy and safe chickens – whether you’re home or not!
Garden chickens thrive when they have a balanced diet, space to forage, and the right mix of nutrients. For healthy hens and reliable egg production, you need to provide the correct amount of feed, ensure they can hunt for wild treats like worms and beetles, and supply essential nutrients such as protein for eggs and calcium for strong shells. Understanding exactly how much to feed your chickens each day is key to providing good garden chicken care.
How much feed per chicken per day?
On average, a standard-sized chicken such as a Rhode Island Red, Oxford Brown, or Orpington needs about 120 grams of feed per day, which adds up to around 840 grams per week. Bantam breeds, being smaller, require less, while larger breeds may need a bit more. The most important thing is to ensure feed is available throughout the day so your chickens can eat little and often.
Feed Amounts by Chicken Size
Feed should be readily available all day as chickens naturally eat small amounts frequently, filling their crop as needed. If you restrict access, you may see a drop in egg production or changes in behaviour.
What Nutrients Do Laying Hens Need for Healthy Eggs?
Protein: Vital for egg production and feather health. Laying hens need at least 16% protein in their feed.
Calcium: Essential for strong eggshells. Oyster shell or a layer feed with added calcium is recommended.
Carbohydrates, vitamins, and minerals: Support energy, growth, and overall health.
Allowing chickens to forage supplements their diet with insects, seeds, and green plants, providing natural sources of nutrients and enrichment. However, foraging alone rarely provides all the nutrients your flock needs, especially during times when natural food sources are scarce. Commercial layer feed is carefully formulated to deliver a balanced diet, ensuring your chickens get the right levels of protein, calcium, and other essential nutrients every day. By prioritising a high-quality feed and offering foraging opportunities, you help support robust health and steady egg production in your flock.
Feeding chickens in winter
During winter, hens need more energy to stay warm and active. Foraging becomes difficult as insects and plants are scarce, so your chickens will rely more on pellets and grains. It’s recommended to increase their feed by up to 50% in cold weather, which means up to 180 grams per chicken per day.
Chickens eat more when moulting, as they need extra protein to grow new feathers, so be sure to refill your feeder more frequently during this period.
Chicken Water in Winter
Providing fresh, unfrozen water is just as important as increasing feed during winter, as hydration helps chickens digest their food and maintain body temperature. An insulated chicken waterer keeps water fluid and at your chickens’ optimal drinking temperature for longer when it’s cold outside.
Winter Feeding Tips
Increase daily feed by up to 50% (180g per chicken)
To ensure your chickens are eating enough, use a chicken feeder with a window or clear panel so you can see feed levels at a glance. If you’re concerned about a particular hen, watch for signs such as lethargy, weight loss, dull feathers, or a drop in egg production.
Sometimes, bullying can prevent a chicken from accessing food, if you notice one hen being pushed away, consider adding another feeder to reduce competition. The Omlet No Waste Feeder has five separate ports, allowing multiple hens to eat at once which minimises bullying.
It’s also helpful to observe your flock during feeding times to ensure every chicken gets a fair chance at the feeder. If you see any chickens lingering at the edge of the group or hesitating to approach the feeder, this could be a sign of social stress or illness. Regularly checking your chickens’ body and monitoring their behaviour will help you catch any issues early and keep your flock healthy.
Signs a Chicken Isn’t Eating Enough
Lethargy or lack of energy
Noticeable weight loss
Dull or ruffled feathers
Fewer or smaller eggs
If you spot these signs, monitor the hen closely for a few days and ensure she has easy access to food.
Do chickens know when to stop eating?
Chickens are naturally good at regulating their intake. They rarely overeat and will stop once their crop is full. Free-choice feeders are safe to use, as hens prefer to eat little and often throughout the day.
However, chickens will often choose treats over their main feed if given the chance. It’s important to make sure their primary feed is always available and treats are given in moderation. Peck toys or treat caddis can help regulate treat intake and provide enrichment.
If a chicken stops eating entirely, check for signs of illness and consult a vet if needed.
Key Takeaways
Feed each standard chicken about 120 grams per day
Increase feed by up to 50% in winter or during moulting
Use a feeder with a window to monitor feed levels and watch for signs of undereating
Chickens self-regulate their intake and rarely overeat
Provide treats in moderation and use enrichment tools to keep chickens active
At Omlet, we offer feeders designed to make garden chicken keeping simple and efficient. Our feeders minimise waste, so you know your chickens are eating every pellet. With smart features like app-controlled feed level alerts and clear panels for easy monitoring, you can keep your flock healthy and happy with less effort. We also design chicken treat dispensers to help you provide enrichment, supporting your chickens’ wellbeing year-round.
Yes, chickens are great pets for families. They’re low-maintenance, social, and endlessly entertaining, and they come with the bonus of fresh eggs every morning. Compared to dogs or cats, the daily care commitment is more manageable, and children of almost any age can get meaningfully involved.
More and more families are discovering this for themselves. Whether you have a large or a compact garden, a small flock of hens fits into family life more easily than most people expect. But before you bring home your first chickens, it’s worth understanding what’s involved, from choosing the right breeds and setting up a safe coop, to knowing what your kids can realistically help with and how to keep everything hygienic.
This blog post covers everything parents need to know before getting started.
Why Chickens Are Great Pets for Families
Chickens tend to surprise new owners. People expect them to be purely functional garden animals, and then find themselves charmed by a hen that trots over when she hears your voice, or a flock that settles into a reliable daily rhythm your whole family can participate in.
Here’s what makes them such a good fit for family life:
No walks, no grooming. Unlike dogs, chickens don’t need to be walked or brushed. Their daily care takes around 10 to 15 minutes in the morning and evening, which is manageable even on busy school days.
They’re social and recognise familiar faces. Chickens form bonds with the people who care for them. Many hens will come when called and enjoy being gently handled, especially when raised with regular human contact from a young age.
Fresh eggs keep kids engaged. The daily egg collection is one of the most reliable ways to keep children invested in the flock. It’s a tangible, exciting reward that never really gets old.
They fit in most gardens. A small flock of three or four hens doesn’t require a large amount of space. As long as the coop and run are appropriately sized, chickens can thrive in suburban and even urban gardens.
Simple chores that kids can genuinely help with. Filling feeders, refreshing water, collecting eggs, and checking on the flock are all tasks children can take ownership of, which brings us to the benefits for them specifically.
The Benefits of Keeping Chickens for Children
Chickens offer something that most family pets don’t: a built-in daily routine with real consequences. If the hens aren’t fed and watered, they go without. That reality, handled gently and with parental guidance, teaches children a level of responsibility that’s hard to replicate elsewhere.
The benefits go well beyond responsibility, though:
Daily responsibility. Feeding, watering, and checking on the flock every day, rain or shine, builds consistency and follow-through in children in a way that feels natural and rewarding, rather than forced.
Understanding where food comes from. Collecting eggs from a hen your child has named and cared for is one of the most direct, hands-on connections to food production available to a family outside of farming.
Routine and consistency. Chickens need the same care every day. That predictability is genuinely good for children, providing structure that carries over into other areas of life.
Empathy and patience. Learning to read an animal’s behaviour, to approach calmly, to notice when something seems off, develops emotional intelligence that benefits children long after they’ve grown up.
More time outdoors, less time on screens. A flock in the garden gives children a reason to go outside every day, not just when the sun is shining.
How Many Chickens Should a Family Get?
For a family new to chicken keeping, three to four hens is the ideal starting point. That’s enough to produce a good supply of eggs without the care feeling overwhelming, and without needing a vast amount of outdoor space.
Chickens are flock animals and get lonely on their own, so keeping at least two is always advised. Beyond that, the right number comes down to your family’s capacity and your available space.
A few things to consider:
More hens means more eggs, but also more feed, more cleaning, and more daily tasks. Consider what your family can realistically manage.
Think about space before you commit to a number. Each hen needs adequate room in both the coop and the run to prevent stress.
Start with a manageable flock, but plan ahead. Most chicken keepers find their flock grows over time, a phenomenon known as chicken math, so it’s worth choosing a coop you can grow into rather than one you’ll quickly outgrow.
For families just starting out, the Eglu Go and Eglu Go Up are brilliant starter coops for up to four hens. If you’d like to build a larger flock over time, the Eglu Cube (for 6 large hens) and Eglu Pro (for 10 large hens) give you the space to start with a few, with the knowledge that you can add a few more later.
Do You Need a Rooster?
No. Hens lay eggs without a rooster in the flock. You only need one if you want fertilised eggs for hatching.
For most families, a rooster is more trouble than it’s worth. They can be noisy, territorial, and occasionally aggressive, which isn’t a great combination when you have young children in the mix. Sticking to an all-hen flock keeps things calmer, quieter, and considerably more neighbour-friendly.
Choosing the Right Coop
The coop is the foundation of a happy, healthy flock, and for families, the right setup makes daily care feel easy rather than burdensome. There are a few things to prioritise:
Security
A predator-proof coop is non-negotiable, particularly in areas with known predators like foxes. Omlet’s Eglu coops are built with strong heavy-duty steel mesh and anti-tunnel skirts that will keep your flock safe from unwanted visitors.
Easy access for children
Children are much more likely to stay engaged if they can actually reach the eggs. The Eglu Cube and Eglu Pro chicken coops from Omlet feature a side Egg-port that makes egg collecting simple and accessible, even for younger kids.
An automatic door
When choosing a coop, make sure it’s compatible with a smart automatic coop door. In summer especially, hens need letting out early, and that can mean a 5am start if you’re doing it manually. With an autodoor set to open on a schedule, you don’t have to go out at sunrise or rework the kids’ morning routine around the flock. It closes automatically at night too, so locking up is one less thing to think about.
Enough space
Overcrowded coops lead to stressed, unhappy chickens. Omlet’s runs are modular, so you can extend them as your flock grows. The walk-in chicken run is particularly well suited to families. It’s large enough for adults and children to step inside and spend time with the hens, which makes bonding with the flock a genuinely enjoyable part of the day.
Easy cleaning
A coop that’s difficult to clean won’t get cleaned as often as it should. Omlet’s Eglu coops have smooth pull-out roosting racks and droppings trays that can be wiped, scrubbed, and hosed off quickly, and children of most ages can get involved.
What Are the Friendliest Chicken Breeds for Families?
Breed makes a real difference when you have children involved. Some chickens are naturally calm and enjoy human contact; others are flighty and easily spooked. For families, especially those with younger children, starting with a docile breed sets everyone up for a much better experience.
Best breeds for families
Silkies. Fluffy, calm, and most love being handled. Their gentle nature makes them ideal for young children who want to get up close with the flock.
Buff Orpingtons. Large, gentle, and rarely peck. They’re one of the best first chickens you can get, and their laid-back temperament holds up well around busy, noisy households.
Plymouth Rocks. Curious and easy to tame, they’re a solid all-rounder for families who want a hen that’s friendly without being overly demanding.
Easter Eggers. A gentle temperament combined with the novelty of colourful eggs makes these a firm favourite with kids of all ages.
Bantams. These are smaller versions of regular chicken breeds, (e.g. Pekin Bantam) which makes them far less intimidating for toddlers and younger children who might be nervous around full-sized hens.
Breeds to avoid with small kids
Leghorns and Rhode Island Reds can be feisty and flighty, which can easily overwhelm young children. They’re not bad chickens, but they’re not the most forgiving choice for a first flock with kids in the mix.
Are Chickens Safe Around Kids? Hygiene and Health
Chickens are safe around children when a few simple hygiene habits are in place. The precautions are straightforward, and most children adapt to them quickly once they become part of the daily routine.
Key hygiene rules for families:
Always wash hands thoroughly with soap and water after handling chickens or collecting eggs.
Supervise toddlers and children under five closely when out with the chickens. They’re more likely to touch their faces without thinking.
Keep the coop clean. A well-maintained setup dramatically reduces the build-up of bacteria over time, and an easy clean coop like an Omlet Eglu is key.
Don’t allow children to kiss chickens or bring them indoors.
None of these rules are difficult to follow and will easily become a habit for children.
Chickens vs Other Family Pets: How Do They Compare?
If you’re weighing chickens against other pets, here’s how they stack up across the factors that matter most to families.
Cost. Chickens are significantly cheaper to keep than dogs. There are no grooming costs and no vet bills for routine care, which makes them a far more affordable long-term commitment for most families.
Time. No daily walks needed. Around 10 to 15 minutes of care in the morning and evening is enough to keep a small flock happy and healthy.
Space. A small garden is sufficient for a small flock, making chickens a realistic option for suburban families who couldn’t accommodate a larger pet.
Noise. Hens are considerably quieter than dogs. They cluck and chatter, but they won’t disturb the neighbours the way a barking dog might.
Lifespan. Chickens can live five to ten years as pets, which is a meaningful commitment, but shorter than a dog or cat. It’s worth having an open conversation with your children about this before you get started.
Allergens. For families where children are allergic to cats or dogs, chickens are a brilliant alternative. They’re a low-allergen option that still gives children all the benefits of caring for a pet.
Eggs. A bonus no other pet can offer.
What Can Kids Do? An Age-by-Age Guide
One of the best things about keeping chickens as a family is that there’s a role for every age. As children grow, so does their capacity to take on more responsibility, and the flock grows with them.
Ages 3-5
Supervised egg collecting, watching feeding, and gentle supervised petting. At this age it’s about building familiarity and excitement around the flock, with a grown-up close by.
Ages 6-9
Filling feeders and drinkers independently, naming hens, and starting to form real bonds with individual birds. This is where daily ownership starts to take shape.
Ages 10-12
Cleaning the coop with guidance, carrying out basic health checks, and keeping a chicken diary to track egg counts and flock behaviour. A brilliant age to take on genuine responsibility.
Teens
Full flock management: monitoring health, managing feed, and confidently introducing new hens to the flock. By this point, most teenagers can run the whole operation with minimal input from parents.
Starting young keeps children connected to the flock from the beginning, and gradually increasing responsibility as they get older builds real confidence. By the time a child reaches their teens, they’re capable of managing the flock almost entirely on their own.
The Mental Health and Educational Benefits
The benefits of keeping chickens extend well beyond the practical. Research consistently shows that regular interaction with animals reduces anxiety and stress in children.
A few of the less obvious benefits worth knowing about:
Real-world biology. Children learn about life cycles, egg development, and animal behaviour in a way that the classroom can’t replicate. It’s hands-on, observable, and genuinely fascinating.
Sustainability and food literacy. Understanding where food comes from, and having a direct role in producing it, builds an awareness of sustainability that sticks with children into adulthood.
Confidence building. For children who are shy or find social situations difficult, the quiet, non-judgmental company of a flock can be genuinely therapeutic. There’s no pressure, no performance, just a calm daily connection.
Consistent routine. The predictability of chicken keeping, same tasks, same times, every day, provides a structure that benefits children with anxiety or those who thrive on routine.
The evidence backs this up. Studies on animal-assisted activities have found meaningful reductions in cortisol levels and anxiety symptoms in children who spend regular time with animals. Chickens may not be the first animal that comes to mind, but the daily, low-pressure nature of the interaction makes them particularly effective.
Key Takeaways
Chickens are low-maintenance, affordable, and more rewarding than most people expect, with fresh eggs as a daily bonus.
The friendliest breeds for families are Silkies, Buff Orpingtons, Plymouth Rocks and Easter Eggers.
Hygiene is simple to manage: handwashing after handling and a clean coop keeps the risk low.
You don’t need a rooster. Hens lay eggs without one.
Children of all ages can get involved, from supervised egg collecting as a toddler to full flock responsibility in their teens.
With the right setup, chickens can be one of the most rewarding pets a family can keep.
Ready to Get Started?
Omlet’s range of coops is designed with families in mind. Eglu coops are predator-proof and built to last, with daily cleaning made quick and easy so the whole family can get involved without it feeling like a chore. The walk-in run gives your flock plenty of space to roam, with the added bonus that the whole family can step inside and spend time with the hens up close. And the Autodoor takes the pressure off busy mornings and evenings, opening and closing on a schedule so you never have to worry about forgetting.
Everything at Omlet is designed to make chicken keeping enjoyable, not a chore. If you’re ready to take the next step, explore our full range of chicken keeping supplies and find the setup that’s right for your family.
Most people would agree that the yolk is the best part of the egg. A double-yolker in the breakfast pan is therefore a very welcome sight!
Some hens lay double-yolkers every time, a genetic quirk that simply means two yolks are released into the system instead of one. However, hens that manage this impressive feat are rare, and no single breed has been developed to pull off the double-yolk trick every time.
The one-egg-with-two-yolks breakfast can still be yours every day, though, if you’re willing to pay extra for it. You may have spotted double-yolk ‘super eggs’ on the shelves of certain supermarkets – sold at a premium, of course – but these are nearly all from young birds, rather than the mythical Double Yolker breed. It’s worth pointing this out, as a Google search will lead to some interesting information about such a breed. But it doesn’t exist – yet!
Most double-yolk eggs encountered by chicken keepers come from young hens. Point-of-lay birds tend to produce a very small egg or two, and then a couple of double-yolkers, before their bodies settle down into a regular four or five eggs-per-week pattern. A double-yolk egg after this early laying stage is very rare in most birds, although some hens begin to produce double-yolkers again towards the end of their egg-laying lives. Circumstantial evidence suggests that the Rhode Island Red, Oxford Brown, Sussex, and Leghorn breeds have a higher chance of producing double-yolkers.
How Are Double Yolks Formed?
Hens’ bodies release a yolk approximately two hours after the previous egg has been laid. Once in the hen’s oviduct – the part of the bird’s body in which the eggs are formed – the yolk is surrounded by the white albumen part of the egg and then covered in hard calcium. If a hen has released two yolks side-by-side, the egg-forming process treats them in the same way as a single yolk, resulting in two yolks ‘trapped’ inside a single egg shell.
If double-yolked eggs are fertilised, the result is two chicken embryos in one shell. Most of these ‘twin’ eggs fail to develop properly, though, with only one chick growing beyond the early development stage, or with neither of them developing. This makes it rare for two chicks to emerge from one egg. Chicken breeders are advised to put aside the double-yolkers to prevent them developing, and in commercial operations most double-yolkers are sold to food companies that use eggs in their products.
How Can You Tell If An Egg Has Two Yolks?
You don’t need to crack the shell to find out what’s inside – you can spot a double-yolker by ‘candling’ the egg. The word candling comes from the ancient practice of holding an egg in front of a candle flame, but a small torch does the job just as well (although they are still ‘candled’ rather than ‘torched’!) If there are two yolks inside, they will be visible as two dark blobs against the bright light as it shines through the shell.
So, although double-yolkers are estimated to occur in just one per thousand eggs, the sheer abundance of point-of-lay hens means that they are a common sight on the plates of chicken keepers around the world.
Triple yolkers, however, are very unlikely to grace the breakfast table. This super-rarity is found in just one egg per 25 million!
The very short answer to that question is probably no. If you give your chickens a good quality feed and some corn, and let them peck around the garden for insects and small stones they use to grind down their food they should technically be getting everything they need.
Any supplement should be given to your chickens as a complement to a healthy and balanced diet, and not instead of giving them good feed or sufficient space to live out natural chicken behaviours. However, just like you might boost your own system with some extra vitamins and minerals, there are some things that you can give your hens that will help them stay healthier and give them more energy.
Particularly useful at more challenging times, like around a moult or during a particularly tough cold snap, we’ve listed all the supplements you might want to have in your cupboard:
Grit
Chickens don’t have teeth, but use small rocks and stones to grind their food down. Most free range chickens gather grit naturally while exploring the garden, but if you for some reason have to contain your chickens to a smaller area than normal, or if their run is covered in snow, you might need to add grit to their diet.
Make sure to choose something that is chicken specific and will have the right composition and size of components.
Vinegar
Vinegar, normally Apple Cider Vinegar, is a great booster all year around. It aids digestion, keeps internal parasites at bay, and is mildly antiseptic. In the winter it’s also fantastic to use preventatively to keep respiratory infections away from your flock.
Choose an organic or unpasteurised vinegar that contains a substance called ‘the mother’. It’s a gel-like substance that grows naturally on the vinegar, and it’s the mother that contains the most powerful enzymes and minerals that make the vinegar so beneficial.
Vinegar can be added to the chickens’ drinking water, approximately 10ml per liter of water.
Garlic
As well as keeping vampires away, garlic has been used for its beneficial properties for centuries, and it’s a great addition to your chickens’ diet.
You can crush up a fresh clove or use garlic powder to add to the feed. It’s great for circulation, and can help with respiratory infections. It’s also said to help ensure a good appetite, so it’s ideal to give it to newly rescued hens that need a nutrient boost.
Herbs
Plenty of herbs and spices are said to have medicinal properties that will help your hens keep their immune system in top condition. Verm-X is a 100% natural supplement that helps maintain intestinal hygiene and keeps the hen’s gut and digestive system in great condition, which can help keep parasites and infections away.
Oregano, cinnamon, parsley, turmeric and ginger are other chicken favourites that will increase vitamin levels and aid the immune system, and that grinded down can be mixed into your chickens feed.
Calcium
Chickens use lots of calcium to build egg shells, so laying chickens can sometimes need a little more than they get from their pellets.
Equimins Egg Shell Improver is a great example of a supplement that contains high levels of calcium and phosphorus and will strengthen the quality of your chickens’ eggs. Ideal for ex battery hens or hens going through a moult.
Poultry Spice
This is a long term favourite with chicken keepers, a mineral supplement that will be beneficial to your chickens’ general health. It’s perfect for moulting, or to help maintain good appetite in winter.
1. You have created a social media page for your Hens
Let’s face it, when you invest in a chicken coop and purchase your first flock you have to share it with friends and family. Whether it is documenting first eggs laid in the coop to your gourmet recipes with your farm-fresh eggs you are posting it on Instagram, Facebook, or Twitter.
2. You find eggs throughout the house
As you start becoming more comfortable with your chickens maybe you decide to let them into your home. They never bother anybody and get along great with your other pets but occasionally you find a fresh egg in your fruit bowl or on top of your favourite armchair. Hey, at least you know they are comfortable!
3. A “staycation” is your idea of a holiday
When you invest in your first brood you feel like you are a second parent to theseanimals. You wash them, feed them, and make sure they are comfortable. Add that in with taking care of your own kids and the idea of going on holiday is the last thing on your mind. You would much rather set up a zoom background of the beach or the tropics, order in a favourite meal, and put your feet up. Ahhh!
4. You find yourself chatting with your chickens
Sometimes we just need a good therapy session with an attentive listener, and who better than your chickens. They will never talk back to you or judge you for your decisions. They may give the occasional nudge or peck for a pet but hey, it is cheaper than therapy.
5. You have pet names for your hens
After the first couple weeks of tending to your chickens you start noticing some have different personalities. Some are on the shy side, some are very particular about their feeding time, and some just want all of the cuddles in the world. What a perfect time to give them a name! Whether it is Rudy, Cleo, or Fluffy we don’t judge here because they are your pets.
6. The home is filled with fashionable fowl décor
Whether it is chicken cocktail napkins or a hen-tastic serving platter you or your friends have made sure that you have all of the latest in chicken-related home furnishings.
7. You have a carrier bag to transport your chickens
Maybe you need to take them to the vet like any of your other pets. Who says that they shouldn’t be comfortable? That is why you have the top of the line carrier to transport your chickens whenever they are unwell.
8. Dressing up your brood for special occasions
When you have spring chickens or fall fowls they must be dressed for the season. When Halloween comes around you wouldn’t put it past yourself to dress up your chickens in a matching outfit with your other pets.
9. Instead of walking the dog you find yourself walking the flock
Yes, there are harnesses for chickens because you have already researched it on Amazon. Maybe you have limited land and your chickens need to stretch their legs each day, so you take them to the local park to graze and get some fresh air. Totally normal, right?!
10. You find yourself building a chicken picnic table for feeding time
We have all seen the trend of building mini picnic tables for our squirrel friends in our backyard. If you haven’t just Google it and you will be entertained by these structures. Well, who says your chickens should have any less than the squirrels. You paint your own table to pour your chicken feed into each day so your chickens can chow down in style.
At the end of the day, we understand that when you decide to venture out into the land of chicken coops it can be a daunting process. Everyone has unique experiences and should be able to tend to their hens/ roosters in their own way. Your flock is part of your family so why skimp on their care and upkeep!
Like most other animals, chickens can suffer from parasitic worms. These are endoparasites that live inside your bird’s body, and are collectively called Helminths by vets.
Does my chicken have worms?
The three types of parasitic worms that your chickens are most likely to contract are:
Roundworms. There are a number of different roundworms, with the large roundworm being the most common. They live anywhere in the bird’s digestive system, and can sometimes be spotted in your chickens’ droppings.
Gapeworms. These nasty parasites attach themselves to the trachea of the chicken, hooking on without moving.
Tapeworms. These attach themselves to the lining of the intestine and can get really long and unpleasant. They are less common, but will more significantly affect the bird.
It’s not always straightforward to tell if your chicken has worms, but symptoms may include a paler comb, decreased egg production, diarrhoea and increased appetite without weight gain. A chicken who has been infected with gapeworm will stretch their neck and gasp for air. Sometimes you won’t spot an infection until it’s really serious and possibly untreatable.
To worm or not to worm
Many chicken keepers therefore choose to worm their chickens regularly to prevent them getting infected, usually once in spring and once in autumn. This is normally done using Flubenvet, a poultry specific wormer you can get at the vets that will kill both the worms and their eggs. Make sure you get a worming treatment that is suitable for chickens, and check if you should be discarding the chicken’s eggs while she is being treated. Always worm all chickens at the same time.
Other chicken keepers think it’s better to only treat chickens that have a confirmed infection. This is partly because some wormers are only effective on particular parasites, and will be pointless if your chickens have a different type of worm. Some also think it’s unnecessary to stress the system by giving the birds treatment for an issue they might not have. Additionally, it can be pricey to worm a whole flock twice a year.
If you don’t want to treat your chickens without a diagnosis, but suspect they might have worms, you can get their droppings tested for presence of eggs. Ask your vet if they will do it for you, or you can send the droppings off to a laboratory in pre-made kits.
Prevent infections
Whether you decide to treat only confirmed worm cases or worm preventatively, it’s always best to do everything you can to make sure your chickens don’t contract parasites. One of the best things to do is to regularly move their coop and run to a new patch. This will stop serious outbreaks, as it stops the life-cycle of the worms. Worm eggs are expelled in the droppings from infected birds, and survive on the ground for a surprisingly long time before they are picked up by foraging chickens. This is called a direct life-cycle, as the worm doesn’t need a host animal to get to your hens. Worms that have an indirect life-cycle on the other hand let their eggs first be ingested by for example earthworms, slugs or centipedes, where they lay dormant until the host is eaten by one of your chickens. The larvae hatch inside your hens, and the cycle repeats.
To prevent an unbreakable chain of worm infestations, it’s therefore important to regularly move your chickens. This is made easy by portable chicken coops like the Eglu Cube or the Eglu Go UP.
Another useful thing is to keep the grass mowed as the ultraviolet light from the sun can kill off potential worm eggs in your chickens’ droppings. Clean the run every week and scoop up droppings and wet bedding. If one of your chickens is infected it’ll be very difficult to get rid of all worm eggs from the ground, but every little helps!
Finally, many chicken keepers swear by the mineral supplement Verm-X. It’s a herbal formulation that works to create an environment in the gut that is able to eradicate and expel any intestinal challenges. This can be given as a supplement to your flock regularly to help their immune system stay on top.
Chickens are prey animals, and that instinct runs deep. In the wild, showing weakness invites attack, so they have evolved to mask illness until they can no longer hide it. This means that by the time visible symptoms appear, a health problem may already be well advanced. That is why a hands-on, beak-to-tail health check is the single most effective tool you have for catching problems early, before they become serious.
This guide walks through a body-part-by-body-part checklist, covering what healthy looks like, which conditions to watch for, and when it is time to call a vet. Whether you are a new chicken keeper or have had a backyard flock for years, building a consistent health check routine is one of the most valuable things you can do for your hens.
What to cover in a chicken health check: eyes, nose, beak, comb, wattles, crop, feathers, body condition, legs, feet, vent, and droppings. Work through each area in the same order every time so nothing gets missed.
Why Regular Chicken Health Checks Matter
Because chickens naturally suppress signs of weakness, daily watching in the garden or run will only take you so far. You might notice a hen who seems a little quieter than usual, but the subtle physical changes that signal an early problem, raised leg scales, a full morning crop, or early vent irritation, are only found through hands-on handling.
A structured weekly check gives you something that casual observation never can: a personal baseline for each hen. When you know what her comb normally looks like, how her crop feels after a morning of foraging, and how she holds herself when she is relaxed, any change from that baseline becomes something you notice quickly. That early awareness is where good flock management starts.
Catching something early makes a real difference. Conditions like respiratory illness and crop issues can progress quickly in chickens. Early detection gives you far more options, and far better outcomes, than waiting until symptoms are obvious. Many of the most common conditions found during health checks are very manageable when caught at an early stage, and much harder to address once they have been allowed to develop.
Think of the weekly hands-on check and your daily observation as working together, not as alternatives to each other. Both have a role, but they are not interchangeable.
How Often Should You Health Check Your Chickens?
A weekly hands-on beak-to-tail check is the recommended routine for backyard flocks. This frequency gives you the best chance of catching any changes before they become a bigger concern, and it is often enough to build a reliable sense of what is normal for each individual hen.
Daily visual observation is a wonderful complement to this. A healthy hen is bright, alert, interacting with the flock, and eating and drinking normally. A hen sitting quietly alone, or one that looks puffed up with her feathers fluffed out, is worth a closer look that same day, rather than waiting for your next weekly check.
When to Check Outside the Weekly Routine
A few situations call for an immediate hands-on check regardless of where you are in your weekly cycle:
Welcoming new chickens to the flock – always check new arrivals before and during integration
After a spell of extreme heat or cold – temperature stress can have rapid effects on health
Following any kind of predator scare – stress and injury can be hidden in the aftermath
A sudden unexplained dip in egg production – this is often one of the first signs something is off
Breathing: An Early Warning Signal
Take note of each hen’s normal breathing rate and depth during your routine checks. Breathing should be quiet and relaxed, with no visible effort. Changes in breathing, any wheezing, rattling, or laboured quality, are among the earliest indicators of respiratory issues, and they are much easier to spot when you already know what normal looks and sounds like for each hen.
The Chicken Health Check: A Beak-to-Tail Guide
Working through the same body-part order every time builds a reliable, memorable routine and means nothing gets missed. Start at the head and work back toward the tail. It takes just a few minutes once you are familiar with it, and the consistency is what makes it useful.
Good handling technique is essential. Hold your hen securely with her wings gently supported against her body, taking her weight from underneath. A confident, calm hold helps her relax, and a relaxed hen is much easier to examine accurately. If she is wriggly at first, practise picking her up regularly so handling becomes familiar and stress-free for both of you.
Beak and Comb
A healthy beak is smooth and free of cracks or chips, with the upper mandible sitting directly above the lower and coming to a gentle point. The top of the beak being slightly longer than the bottom is completely normal.
A healthy adult comb (outside of moult or broodiness) is firm, bright red, and positioned as expected for the breed. A paler comb can indicate the hen is under the weather, dehydrated, or experiencing some blood loss, and is always worth keeping an eye on. Check the wattles at the same time: they should be bright red, smooth, and free of any swelling, scabbing, or unusual colouring.
Blue or black colouring in the comb or wattles is not something to wait on. This can indicate a circulatory problem and warrants prompt veterinary attention.
Eyes and Nose
Healthy eyes are almost perfectly round, fully open, clear, and bright, with a copper-red iris and a well-defined round pupil. Any discharge from the eyes is worth investigating. Foamy bubbles in the corner of the eye are a well-known early sign of respiratory illness and should never be ignored.
The nares (the nostrils at the top of the beak) should be clean, open, and free of any discharge or crusty buildup. A hen with a runny nose will often accumulate dust or mud around her nostrils, and this is usually one of the first visible hints that something respiratory is developing. Hens with nasal discharge will also frequently wipe their beak on their shoulder, leaving a faint dirty stripe on each side, which can be a useful sign to notice during daily observation too.
Crop
The crop is a small pouch at the base of the oesophagus where food is held before digestion. Feel for it by gently touching the area at the base of the neck, just above the breastbone.
After eating: firm, roughly golf ball-sized
First thing in the morning: empty or nearly so
If the crop still feels rock-hard in the morning after a night without food, this may indicate an impacted crop. Common causes include eating long grass, fibrous material, or not having enough grit available. The hen may also seem quieter than usual and less interested in food.
If the crop feels soft and squishy and the hen has noticeably unpleasant breath, this can indicate a yeast overgrowth in the crop (candidiasis, often called sour crop). Early-stage cases can sometimes be supported at home, though persistent cases are worth a conversation with your vet. Both conditions are much more manageable when noticed early, before they have a chance to progress.
Feathers and Body Condition
Healthy feathers lie flat against the body and look shiny and well-preened. Outside of moulting season, a hen with dull, ruffled, or unkempt feathers is often telling you she is not feeling her best, since chickens tend to stop preening when they are unwell.
Bald patches, broken feather shafts, or areas of missing feathers can point to stress, feather pecking by flockmates, or external parasites. Part the feathers and check the skin underneath (which should be pale pink and smooth) when you notice any changes.
Look at the base of feather shafts, particularly around the vent and under the wings, for white clumps (lice egg clusters known as nits) or any tiny moving specks. These are easy to miss without actively parting the feathers.
Gently feel the keel bone (breastbone) as well. Good breast muscle coverage on both sides means the hen is eating well and maintaining her condition. If the keel feels prominent with little muscle around it, she may not have been eating adequately for some time.
Legs, Feet, and Vent
Healthy legs have smooth, flat scales that sit neatly against the bone and are a clean yellow colour. If the scales look raised, crusty, or flaky, this is the classic sign of scaly leg mites (Knemidocoptes mutans), a microscopic parasite that burrows under the skin.
The bottoms of the feet should be flat, smooth, and free of any scabs, swelling, or discolouration. The very earliest signs of bumblefoot (pododermatitis) are a smooth, shiny, or slightly reddened area on the foot pad. Catching it at this stage (Grade 1) means simple home care is often all that is needed. More advanced cases may need veterinary support.
The vent (cloaca) should be clean and free of any faecal pasting. In laying hens it appears pink, wide, and moist; in older hens it may be a little drier and paler. Both are normal. Any protrusion or swelling around the vent is worth prompt attention.
The vent area is where mites and lice tend to concentrate. Keep an eye out for black specks, reddened or irritated skin, a moth-eaten appearance to nearby feathers, or any visible movement around the vent region.
Droppings
Normal droppings are formed, somewhat firm, and dark brown with white urate portions. The white part is the equivalent of urine in chickens and is a completely normal part of a healthy dropping.
Caecal droppings (produced from a separate part of the digestive tract called the caecum) look quite different: they are brown, mustard-coloured, or greenish and have a stronger odour. These are produced a few times a day and are entirely normal.
Standard dropping – Dark brown, firm, with a white urate cap. Normal.
Cecal dropping – Mustard, brown, or greenish, softer, with a stronger odor. Normal, produced a few times a day.
Loose stool (over 48 hours) – Watery or very soft and persistent. Worth investigating.
Bloody droppings – Any red coloring in the stool. Seek vet advice.
All-white droppings – Entirely white with no brown. Seek vet advice.
A change in dropping consistency after a new food or a varied diet is usually temporary and settles within a day or two. Extended loose stool beyond 48 hours, bloody droppings, or all-white droppings are worth paying closer attention to.
The slide-out dropping tray on Eglu chicken coops makes this part of the daily routine very straightforward. A quick check of the tray each morning takes seconds and gives a useful snapshot of flock health before any hands-on check is needed.
What to Do If You Think Your Chicken Might Be Unwell
Separating any hen showing unusual signs is the first step. Many poultry conditions can spread between chickens, and giving an unwell hen her own space also reduces the stress of flock dynamics while she recovers.
Find a Poultry Vet Before You Need One
Having a poultry vet identified before an urgent situation arises is one of the most valuable things a chicken keeper can do. Not all veterinary practices treat chickens, so finding one in advance means you are never scrambling in a stressful moment. Many poultry vets also offer phone or video consultations for initial guidance, which can be a useful first step when you are unsure how serious something is.
Set Up a Quarantine Space
A simple quarantine setup, a separate coop with food, water, and shelter away from the main flock, gives a hen the calm, comfortable space she needs to recover well. The Eglu Go works perfectly for this purpose, providing a secure, easy-to-clean “hospital” space that keeps stress low during recovery. Its simple design means you can get it set up quickly when you need it, and clean it thoroughly between uses.
Monitor Closely and Keep Notes
Keep a close eye on the separated hen over 24 to 48 hours. Watch whether she is eating and drinking, how her droppings look, and whether things seem to be improving, staying the same, or getting worse. This information will be genuinely useful for a vet if you need to call one, so it is worth jotting down what you observe.
Reintroducing a Recovered Hen
Reintroducing a recovered hen to the flock only after her symptoms have fully cleared (or with vet guidance) is the best approach for everyone. It protects the rest of the flock and gives the recovering hen the best chance of settling back in smoothly. A gradual reintroduction, where she can see and hear her flockmates before full contact, helps reduce the social stress of rejoining the group. A partition can be used in an Omlet Walk In Chicken Run to create two secure but separate spaces where the recovering hen can see the others and gradually transition back into the flock.
Key Takeaways
Regular hands-on checks are the most effective way to stay on top of flock health. Chickens naturally mask how they are feeling, and watching alone rarely catches early changes.
A weekly structured routine, rather than just daily observation, is the foundation of good flock care and gives you the best chance of catching anything early.
A consistent beak-to-tail routine covering beak, eyes, nares, comb, crop, feathers, body condition, legs, feet, vent, and droppings builds the personal baseline needed to notice changes quickly and confidently.
The most common conditions found during health checks, including bumblefoot, scaly leg mites, external parasites, and crop issues, all respond much better to early attention. Most mild cases are very manageable at home when caught promptly.
Having a plan in place before you need it (a separation space, a poultry vet contact, and a quarantine setup) means that if a hen does need extra care, you are ready to respond calmly and quickly.
Omlet and Your Flock
Good housing is the foundation of good flock health. When your chickens have a clean, secure, and comfortable home, you are already reducing many of the stressors that contribute to health challenges.
Eglu chicken coops feature slide-out dropping trays that make droppings health monitoring an effortless part of the morning routine. A quick check takes seconds and gives a useful snapshot of how the flock is doing before the day gets started.
The Walk In Chicken Run from Omlet gives your chickens a safe, secure, and predator-resistant environment that supports their wellbeing and reduces the stressful events that can contribute to health challenges. A flock that is calm and unstressed is a flock that is easier to keep healthy.
And when a hen does need a little extra care, the Eglu Go makes an excellent quarantine coop. It is easy to set up, easy to clean, and comfortable enough that a poorly hen can rest and recover without additional stress.
FALSE – Chickens actually have superior colour vision to humans. Thanks to five light receptors in the eye (humans only have three), they can see many colours more vividly than us.
Chickens can be half male, half female – split down the middle
TRUE – Due to a phenomena called bilateral gynandromorph there are chickens where one side of the body is male (large wattle, spur and muscular breast etc.) and the other side is female (duller plumage, smaller comb, slighter build etc). Worth a google!
There are as many chickens as there are humans on earth
FALSE – There are almost 4 times as many chickens as there are humans, more than 25 billion. In fact, there are more chickens in the world than any other bird.
Chickens navigate through magnetic fields
TRUE– Like other birds, chickens use the magnetic fields of the earth to orientate themselves and navigate around their home environment. Additionally, studies show that chickens use the sun to tell the time of day. Daylight intensity is also what tells cockerels when to crow in the morning and when to go roost at night.
Chickens are cannibals
UNDECIDED – You might have heard about cannibalism in poultry, and it does happen that chickens start pecking the flesh of other hens. This is however not a natural behaviour seen in the wild, but a result of a stressful environment with limited space in large egg or meat factories. A happy chicken will not eat its friend.
Chickens have no taste buds
FALSE – While it may seem like chickens will eat just about anything you put in front of them, they do have taste buds, and personal preferences. A chicken can’t taste sweetness or spiciness, but can tell saltiness, sourness and bitterness apart.
The colour of the egg affects the nutritional content
FALSE – Despite what some egg producers have claimed during the years, brown eggs are not healthier than white ones, or vice versa. The colour of the shell only depends on the breed of chicken it came from, and will have no impact on taste or nutritional content.
If you chop their heads off, chickens will keep running
TRUE – Some chickens will indeed keep running after having their head chopped off. The pressure from the axe triggers nerve endings in the neck, sending a message back to the muscles telling them to move, without the brain actually being involved.
The chicken is then moving while actually being dead, but in the case of Miracle Mike, the farmer who tried to kill him aimed a bit high and accidentally left a bit of the brain that chickens keep at the back of their necks. This made it possible for Mike to live for another 18 months (!) after his head had been removed.
You can hypnotise a chicken
TRUE – There are several ways of putting a chicken in a trance, but the most common one involves holding the chicken with its head close to the ground, and drawing a line in the ground going outwards from the beak. This will paralyse the chicken, and she will stay laying still until you clap or poke her.
While it probably won’t hurt your chicken to hypnotise it like this, it’s unclear how much stress it causes her, so make sure not to do it too frequently.
Hens are always talking amongst themselves. All those clucks and squawks mean something, and while some of the meanings of these chicken sounds are obvious – the explosive squawking of a bird running away in panic, for example – others are more subtle.
Here are ten ways in which you can eavesdrop on the chicken chat and brush up on the bantam banter.
Chicken sounds and what they mean
A calm, gently rising borrrrb
This is the chicken sound hens make as they peck their way through the grass or chicken run, and it means two things. It indicates that the chicken is enjoying the endless search for quick snacks, and it’s also telling the other birds ‘everything is fine’. A flock of hens saying borrrb together sends out the reassuring message that there’s nothing to worry about.
The cluck-cum-squawk
This brief, excited cry usually means that there has been some sort of confrontation, usually between a meek hen and a more dominant one who has muscled in to see what snacks the more timid bird has found. The sound is also used if a hen is surprised by something, such as the chicken-run door opening suddenly.
The ‘squawk bomb’
This is when the hen clucks, gobbles and squawks in one hysterical flurry. It sounds as if the bird is about to explode in a cloud of feathers. This is the chicken’s main alarm call, expressing fear and also telling the other birds to run. The causes can be vehicles, dogs, people trying to pick up the hen, or predators.
Cackling
This is the name often used for the familiar Buk-buk-buk-badaaak! call. Repeated several times, and loudly, it is the sound many hens produce after laying an egg. The hen moves away from the egg and then begins cackling. It is thought to be a way of luring potential predators away from the egg and the nest.
Buk-buk-buk (but with no badaaak!)
This slightly angry and persistent sound is often made by a hen who wants to sit in her favourite nest box but finds it occupied. It’s meaning is a combination of “I’m here!” and “Get out!”
Growling
If a hen is broody and doesn’t want to move from her nest box, she will make a hissing, growling sound. This simply means “Don’t touch!” and “Go away!”
Chick-chat
A hen hatching eggs will mutter various gentle clucking sounds to communicate with the chicks and reassure them. Once the chicks are hatched and running around, she tells them where the good scratching and pecking places are by saying tuk-tuk! (Cockerels use this sound too, to tell the hens that they have found a good foraging spot).Mother hens also have an insistent Rrrrrr call, which is the chicks’ cue to come running if the hen senses danger.
Crowing
This is cockerel territory, the classic cock-a-doodle-doo – although some hens get the crowing habit too. Crowing says several things. It means a new day has dawned, and it’s time to be up and scratching/pecking. It also tells the world that this is the cockerel’s territory, and that these hens are his. If there is more than one cockerel, the subordinate ones will only crow when the boss has crowed. Crowing usually hits 90 decibels, or even more!
Help!
A hen separated from the flock will make an alarm call. The sound is similar to the ‘cackling’ that announces a new egg. It is thought to be an SOS call to the cockerel to come and save his lost hen. There will be a strong element of danger if there are predators around, so it’s a risky strategy for a lost chicken.
Buzzing
First thing in the morning, with the chicken coop still locked, the hens will begin to make repetitive, buzzing clucks, which may rise in volume as the minutes pass and the doors remain shut. This sound simply means “Let us out – there’s lots of pecking and scratching to be done!”
With this knowledge of chicken chit-chat, you will be able to tell what your girls are talking about, even if you can’t actually see them. It’s an all-day, non-stop conversation!
A flock of chickens can easily give the impression of peace and equality, but they don’t start out that way. There’s a “pecking order” among chickens that is established early on and can be challenged and even changed from time to time. Every flock of chickens, whether it consists of two birds or 200, has a pecking order. This natural hierarchy determines the top and bottom-ranking hens. Understanding the pecking order in chickens will help you make decisions about housing, how to set up the run, and look out for potential trouble.
What is a pecking order in chickens?
Adherence to a pecking order is a natural behaviour in chickens and doesn’t usually require human interference. It’s established by the more dominant birds asserting themselves – and the more submissive birds will fall into line. Dominant chickens will usually be first to the feeder and to roost, but will also ensure that the lower ranking members of the flock are taken care of. Much like a monarchy, most high-ranking hens will also see that their subjects are cared for.
Chickens that are raised together from chicks will have already sorted out their pecking order. But, if you’re adding more hens to an existing flock, be prepared to witness the pecking order sort itself out all over again. Each time new members are added to the flock, the pecking order will be challenged.
Interestingly, there is circumstantial evidence that hens’ combs may play a part in the war of the wattles. Hens with large, erect combs tend to be higher in the pecking order than birds with less impressive combs. But, every flock is different, and the pecking order can be challenged and can change at any given time.
Changes in the pecking order
Occasionally, another hen may challenge the top hen for the top place in the pecking order. This is common when new hens are added to a flock, or in established flocks when dominant hens go broody, get older, or become ill. Or, sometimes lower ranking hens will simply test their place among the flock.
Generally, the most aggressive or assertive hens will be at the top of the flock’s pecking order. But, when the situation demands it, dominant hens will have to defend their place at the top. Common behaviour among hens that are working out the pecking order includes:
Squaring off to each other – sometimes with their feathery hackles raised along their necks
Small squabbles of pecking or feather-pulling
A loud commotion of squawking or clucking that lasts a minute or two
Sometimes a chicken seems to rise to the top with very few pecks involved. If a dominant hen is no longer around, the pecking order enters a state of flux, and there may be new outbreaks of feathered fisticuffs before the new order establishes itself.
Occasionally, hens will be overly aggressive or will gang up on a newly added flock member, or one that’s especially timid. Keep an eye out for dangerous behaviour like:
Excessive pecking, to the point of drawing blood or giving another hen bald patches
Keeping lower-ranking hens away from food or water
Pushing lower-ranking hens out of the coop at night
If you notice a hen being bullied, you’ll need to isolate them until they regain their strength. Overly aggressive hens should be kept with other strong-willed hens, and should not be allowed in with a flock of very timid hens. It’s not often that a hen will take advantage of a higher rank, but those that do are very difficult to convince otherwise.
A healthy pecking order
Being top of the pecking order doesn’t mean a hen enforces a reign of terror. Top hens protect the flock by keeping an eye open for danger, lead the flock to new food sources, and signal when it’s time to head to bed. In healthy pecking orders, dominant hens make sure that everyone is in the coop at night and has a place to roost. Make sure your chicken coop has plenty of spacefor everyone to have a comfortable roost at night – a nurturing dominant hen will become stressed if the rest of the flock is in a state of unrest.
If you have a rooster in your flock, they’ll almost always be at the top of the pecking order. Their natural protective instincts is what can make them aggressive (even to their human caretakers), but is also what keeps them in an elevated position in the flock. Sometimes an assertive hen can rank over a more submissive rooster, but this is very uncommon. Keeping with the rule of thumb of no less than 10 hens for each rooster in your flock will help the pecking order and the overall well-being of your hens in balance.
Be sure to give your flock plenty of room outside of the coop as well. A walk in chicken run can be expanded to accommodate growing flocks and can utilize vertical space for hens to work out their differences. Hens will maintain a healthy pecking order on their own, but by keeping their stress low and giving them plenty of space to spread out, you’ll help them keep the peace.
Your flock and Omlet
Just because chickens are self-sufficient in establishing their pecking order doesn’t mean that a little human help isn’t beneficial. By giving them a safe and roomy home like the Eglu Cube chicken coop and a spacious outdoor area with the Walk In chicken run, your flock will be comfortable and safe from external stressors that could upset their natural order. With our ingeniously designed chicken products, your chickens will be able to live their best lives as close to their innate behaviours as possible.
We are all used to the idea of fresh food being clean and chilled, so surely the best method of storing eggs is to wash and refrigerate them?
The answer is ‘no’. With a bit of ‘yes’ thrown in. Although the collective knowledge of chicken keepers is vast, there is still debate about the best way to store eggs.
We’ve gathered the various ends of the argument and summarised them below. Welcome to the debate!
Washed eggs?
Unless the eggs are soiled – which is the result of mud or chicken poo in the hen house, rather than dirt deposited during the actual laying – they do not need washing. A freshly laid egg has a shell covered in a protective ‘bloom’, called the cuticle, and this acts as an antibacterial defence system. If it’s washed off, the protection is washed off too. However, if the eggs are then stored in clean boxes, this won’t be a huge issue.
Eggs with dirty shells should be wiped clean, and it’s a good idea to use these soiled ones first – mainly to keep the egg box or egg-skelter looking pretty!
Chilled eggs?
Some chicken keepers keep their eggs in a refrigerator, while others believe this is unnecessary. So what’s the best advice?
There are two rules of thumb – keep them below 20°C, and keep them away from strong odours, as these may affect the flavour. Other than that, it’s really up to you.
A study was carried out in 2013 by Food Test Laboratories in England, comparing the fate of two batches of supermarket eggs. The eggs were kept for two weeks, half of them in the fridge, and the other half at room temperature.
The eggs were tested for ‘usual suspect’ bacteria such as salmonella and listeria, at the beginning of the experiment and two weeks later. The results demonstrated why there is such divided opinion on the issue, as neither sets of eggs showed any signs of bacterial nasties, inside or out.
It’s the cuticle ‘bloom’ that keeps the eggs fresh and bacteria-free. If you’ve had to wash them, it’s probably a good idea to refrigerate them, as the shells will not be protected. Keep them in boxes on the fridge shelves, rather than in a fitted plastic egg tray in the fridge door (formerly a regular feature in new refrigerators).
Eggs don’t like being shaken, as it causes the egg whites to deteriorate and turn slightly watery. An egg that’s shaken by the constant opening of the fridge door is likely to lose its binding qualities in baking, and will look very sad, flat and watery in the poaching or frying pan. Fridge doors are the warmest part of the appliance too, and the area of the fridge where temperature fluctuates the most, which isn’t ideal for egg storage.
Egg basket or box?
Eggs kept outside the fridge can be stacked in boxes, with the oldest ones in the topmost boxes. This age factor is less easy to sort out if you keep the eggs in a wire basket, although these look great on display. Some chicken owners use colour coding dots, or even dates, to sort the young from the old. If you’re unsure about relative age, you can always use the traditional ageing method: place the eggs in a bowl of water, and watch how they sit. Very fresh ones will lie flat on the bottom, while older ones will have their pointed ends raised. Ones that are way past their use-by date will float.
Another advantage of egg boxes is that you can store the eggs with their rounded ends at the top. This keeps the yolks centred, which makes them look their best if you’re hard- or soft-boiling. However, if most of your eggs end up in cakes and quiches, this isn’t going to be an issue.
An egg skelter is another attractive way of storing the fruits of your hens’ labours. These keep the eggs in age-order, and they look great too.
Storing shelled eggs?
Any leftover raw egg can be stored in the fridge in an airtight container. It should be used within three days. Stored yolks should be covered in water to prevent them drying out. The water can be poured away before use.
Uneaten cooked eggs (i.e. hard-boiled) will always leave an ‘eggy’ whiff in the fridge. This is caused by hydrogen sulphide, a gas that forms when eggs are cooked (you’ll notice it’s never present in raw eggs). Although not exactly pleasant, the gas is harmless. Eggs stored in this way should be eaten within one week.
So, the main takeaway here is that eggs can be stored wherever you want them to be stored. As long as you keep them away from heat, strong odours and too much shaking, you’ve got the storage conundrum cracked!
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If your hens are very tame, you can simply offer some treats, bend down and pick them up. If only it were that easy with every chicken! Some are about as easy to catch as a fast-moving bar of wet soap – they can sprint at speeds of around 9 miles (14.5 km) per hour – and you will usually have to corner them first if you want to catch them.
Most people would agree that the yolk is the best part of the egg. A double-yolker in the breakfast pan is therefore a very welcome sight!
Prevent infections
