Waiting until winter is over to start a flock? The warmer weather typically fans the flame of future flock-raisers, and understandably so — there are several reasons why spring is the perfect time to get chickens. The longer days and awakening earth make for ideal conditions for hens and chicks alike. Find out how to get started with chickens this spring, and what to expect through the rest of the year.
When should I buy my chickens?
The term “spring chicken” originated in the 1700s, when farmers realized that chickens hatched in the spring were being bought at a better price than those who had already been through their first winter. Most breeders now begin hatching eggs in December, which has pullets reaching laying age by spring.
Most laying breeds of chickens begin laying eggs between 16-22 weeks of age. If you purchase chickens that were hatched in December, you can expect to start seeing eggs around April. You’ll likely see just a few eggs to start with, but their production will increase as your pullets mature through their first year.
If you start out with chicks in the spring, they should begin laying eggs toward the end of summer. But you also run the risk of chicks being hatched too late in the spring to begin laying before their annual fall moult, which will push egg production into the winter or even the following spring.
How long will spring chickens produce eggs?
Chickens will continue to lay eggs throughout their lives, with their peak production age being around 30 weeks of age. After they’ve turned their first year, hens will begin to slowly produce less eggs over time, decreasing around 10% each year. Most hens will have stopped laying eggs by the time they’re 6 years old, but some breeds or individual hens may continue to lay infrequent eggs for the duration of their lives.
Feeding your chickens a quality diet of layer pellets or crumbles containing at least 16-18% protein will help them in their egg production efforts. Fresh fruits and vegetables, dried insects, and foraging will also help your hens meet their nutritional needs. Make sure your flock always has access to fresh water, and keep crushed oyster shells or another calcium supplement out free-choice in their chicken run to help fortify eggshells.
You can expect your hens to lay fewer eggs, or none at all, during their annual chicken moult. This occurs during late fall, when the daylight hours begin to shorten, triggering the process of chickens shedding their feathers to grow fresh plumage for the winter. Once your hens have donned their winter coats, egg production will resume as usual. The moulting process can take anywhere from 4-12 weeks, but on average you can expect to see fewer eggs for about 6 weeks.
Why is spring the best time for chickens?
Spring has everything that chickens love: mild weather, fresh vegetation, plenty of insects, and longer days to spend foraging. And as a chicken keeper, you get to enjoy these natural buoys to make your workload a little lighter and your days more joyful. There’s nothing like watching your flock scratch the ground while you relax on a calm spring afternoon.
Spring consideration: parasites
The earth isn’t the only thing waking up during the spring — parasites will also be making their comeback. For chickens, the main parasites to be wary of are red mites. Their presence drops off during the colder months, but as the weather warms back up, they’ll be ready for their yearly debut.
Watch your flock closely for signs of a red mite infestation. These include:
Reluctance to roost, as mites lie in wait for chickens overnight
Lethargy
Sensitive skin or feathers, or persistent scratching
Pale combs or wattles, as this can be a sign of anemia
Irritation on the skin of the legs
Red mites hide in the crevices of wood, and are very hard to eradicate once they’ve infiltrated a coop. Treating your flock and their coop is tedious, and many treatments have to be administered repeatedly. Preventing red mites is the best line of defense against these opportunistic pests. Eglu plastic chicken coops prevent red mites from hiding, and can be pressure washed easily to eliminate any parasites that may be present.
Chicks in the spring
Spring is a very popular season for chicks. Most farm supply and feed stores stock chicks during the spring, and hatcheries are hard at work hatching higher volumes. This is largely due to the mild weather that spring brings, which makes transitioning chicks from a brooder to their outdoor run easier when the time comes. If you’re looking to raise chicks, starting them in the spring will allow you to move them to their permanent setup during the summer, which will ensure they’re warm enough. Some chicken keepers wait to raise chicks in the fall so that they’re ready to lay the following spring.
Whichever season you choose, you can expect to keep your chicks in a special setup called a brooder for the first 6-12 weeks of their lives. Chicks need a heat source until they are fully feathered, a milestone they usually reach by 6 weeks of age. Chicks younger than 12 weeks should not be expected to navigate a coop on their own, and should stay in their brooder until they are coordinated enough to head to their roost at night. Once they’ve reached 12 weeks of age, you can transition your chicks to their coop.
Prepare for the rest of the year
If you’ve decided to get chickens this spring, it’s a good idea to make a plan for the rest of your chicken-keeping year. Invest in chicken run covers to keep spring showers and summer storms from turning their run into a mud pit, and later to prevent snow and ice from freezing their feet. Outfit their area with some chicken toys and perches for year-round entertainment and enrichment, and install an automatic chicken coop door to simplify your schedule. These accessories are the perfect addition to further simplify spring chicken keeping, and will lend support in every season.
Omlet and your flock
Getting new chickens is exciting — no matter what time of the year it is. Outfit your flock with chicken keeping products that support their behaviors and your lifestyle. When you choose an Eglu Chicken Coop, Walk In Chicken Run and Chicken Run Covers, you’ll equip your flock with everything they need to stay safe and comfortable all year long.
This article is a part of our Pride of Omlet series, a collection of amazing stories which shine the spotlight on extraordinary pets and share their selflessness, bravery, talent and compassion with the world.
-Written by Anneliese Paul
Martha’s humans Nicola and Ben bought chickens to bring joy to Julia, their mother who they cared for at home. The family could never have imagined that a chicken would become a caring companion to Julia in the advanced stages of dementia.
Julia used to have chickens as a child. She fondly told Nicola stories about dressing up the chickens and wheeling them around the garden, like babies in her toy pram. But it wasn’t until her 90th birthday that Julia owned chickens again. It was a dream come true.
Nicola and Ben always thought they didn’t have enough space in their bungalow garden, but whilst visiting relatives in Ireland, Ben saw an Omlet ad and brought it home to show Nicola. “That’s just what we need,” she said. Their Eglu arrived soon after, and then their two hybrid chickens moved in. Julia named them Martha and Mary.
Whilst Mary was always shy and kept her distance. From day one Martha ran to Julia, Nicola’s mum. “She was mums best friend from the beginning,” says Nicola.
Unfortunately, Mary died and then there was a near miss for Martha. Like most people, the family like to let their hens roam free in the garden for a bit, but one day a fox came into the garden and attacked Martha. Nicola and Ben heard her squawking and went to the window. The fox saw them and ran, leaving poor Martha very shaken and suffering from a broken wing. But Matha was brave, and luckily the wing has completely healed. Now Ben and Nicola have extended the run so the chickens only come out when they’re in the garden.
When it was sunny, Julia liked to sit outside in the sun watching Martha. Julia had to use a wheelchair, and Martha would jump (in a very ladylike way) onto the footrest to warm her feet. Last summer when Julia could no longer speak in sentences, she’d make gentle noises and Martha would answer back. She’d sit for hours by the wheelchair with Julia, having quiet conversations.
Nicola couldn’t deny Martha had a human quality. She didn’t just come for crumbs because she was there when there weren’t any. Martha cared.
“She went from a chicken, running around the garden then in those moments with mum, it was like she knew. It was beautiful.”
Nicola began to trust Martha to squawk loudly if something was wrong. When she went into the house to make a cup of tea, she’d leave Julia in the garden with Martha.
“It was weird,” says Nicola “ Martha would squawk, and I’d go out to find Mum had dropped something, or something had fallen off the table, or Mum was confused because she didn’t remember where I was.”
Martha was the thing that made Julia smile every time, and her eggs brought so much joy to Julia in the advanced stages of dementia. Boiled was her favourite, and Martha would let them all know when it was ready to be collected. When Martha lays an egg, she stands at the edge of the run and squawks and squawks as if to say, “Come and get my egg!”
Julia loved holding Martha’s warm eggs. Once, when Julia was having a lie-in, Nicola took her the freshly laid egg. She’d just woken up, and a big smile spread across her face, then she fell asleep again holding it. A couple of hours later, Nicola went to wake her up. Julia sat up. All of a sudden, the egg rolled out from behind her as if she’d laid it on the bed. Incredibly it was completely intact. “Are you laying eggs now?” asked Nicola. Julia understood, and that made them all laugh. It was the happiest occasion, just an egg rolling along the sheet. Julia kept the egg in her hand for the rest of the day. Moments like that are precious memories to Nicola and Ben.
Sadly, Julia died in September. When Julia was alive, it was Mum and Martha, Nicola says. She never thought she’d take to chickens. But having seen how Martha cared, chickens have become constant companions.
“ I think we’ll probably always have chickens because they get under your skin. Well, no, that’s a bad expression. They become part of you. They’re like a little family.”
Having some feathered friends in your garden who regularly lay eggs for your enjoyment – that sounds good, doesn’t it? But there are a few things to consider before raising and keeping chickens in your backyard. Whether your garden is suitable for chicken keeping or the actual costs which are involved… In this respect, we’re going to be egg-ucating you today about some advice and guidance!
What does it cost to keep chickens?
The regular running costs include feed, bedding, sand, lime, water and electricity. Depending on the breed and age of your chick and the type and quality of the feed, you should expect about £12 for five chickens/month. If your chickens also find a lot of feed in the run, you can keep the costs quite low, while high-quality organic feed costs significantly more. You can also budget stuff such as cabbage, cauliflower leaves or spinach to supplement their pellets, as hens do need a bit of greenery in their daily diet. Bedding costs approximately £15.
In addition, there are costs for the vet, which can hardly be calculated. The vaccination costs are still quite manageable, the vaccine itself is a maximum of £15. Depending on what you want to vaccinate your chickens against and whether you also deworm regularly, the costs naturally increase. With other health supplements we can calculate £60/year.
To answer simply, the maximum cost to raise chickens in your backyard will be £50/month, for a flock of 5 hens. Basically it can be said, chicks are cheaper than other pets like dogs or cats and we even receive some delicious eggs from them.
Please be aware that all prices listed here are very general estimates and can vary greatly from state to state and between cities and towns.
Besides these running costs you should definitely purchase a convenient and practical chicken coop to keep your pullets safe. You can buy a pre-made coop or you can build your own.
Something that definitely needs to be on the list is a food and water dispenser, a perch and at best some peck toys and a treat holder for the cleanest and healthiest way to feed treats to your flock.
And don’t forget the costs of chickens themselves. These costs depend on the breed and their age. A good starter flock usually consists of 4 to 5 birds aged 16 to 24 weeks. If you’re up for a special breed or pedigree chickens, the prices might be more expensive. The chicken costs may vary between £3 and £12 per chick.
What is the workload and do I have enough time to keep chickens?
The daily workload depends on the size and age of your flock, and how well you pre-planned. It’s a matter of course that newly hatched or baby chicks might need much more of your time than adults. For finding out which chicken age is more suitable for you, please refer to our previous blog: ‘Chicken keeping for beginners: adult chickens or baby chicks?’ (insert the link).
Generally you can say, the more chickens you have, the more work there is to do – but also the more eggs that will make you and your family happy each morning! However, keeping chickens in a small flock with around 6 animals is much easier than keeping a dog. You will need to feed your flock and change their water daily, and give them all a quick daily health check. Moreover, you should let your chickens out of their coop at least once a day, either on a free-range basis or in an enclosure, which will ensure to keep them safe from predators.
Another important factor you should keep in mind is your working hours. If your work starts in the early morning or in the late evening, it’s difficult to manage letting your chickens out of the coop and back inside again. However, this doesn’t necessarily imply that you are not able to keep chickens at all. For this, it’s a good alternative to purchase an Automatic Chicken Coop Door, which can completely open and close automatically, even when you’re not there!.
With an effort of approximately 10-15 minutes workload per day, you will be able to take the essential actions to keep happy and healthy chickens (plus any extra play and cuddle time you choose!).
Is my environment suitable for keeping chickens?
In order to keep healthy and happy chickens it is necessary to have a safe outdoor area with plenty of space, where they can exercise, enjoy the sunshine and fresh air. Your chicks should be able to express normal behaviours, such as scratching, foraging and dust bathing.
The selection of the chicken breed as well as how many chickens you want to keep are the key indicators for the necessary space requirement. You should definitely give your chickens plenty of green space to enjoy their freedom. However, it is important to have a coop and an outdoor enclosure to keep your chickens safe from predators when you’re not around.
Who takes care of my flock if I’m away?
Whether you’re planning a short time away from your flock or a longer trip – with appropriate planning there are ways to manage it, so you can leave your chickens without a guilty conscience.
The most convenient and easy way would be to ask a friend, family member or your neighbour to have an eye on your flock while you’re away. If you’re unlucky and can’t find someone around you, don’t worry. Ever heard of a chicken sitter? Yes, they do exist. Investigate in your local area whether a chicken sitting or boarding service is available. As for dogs or cats the same goes with chickens: the ideal chicken sitter is one who knows poultry well. An alternative is to invest in an automatic feeder. It allows your flock to get access to food all day at will and keeps rats or other unwelcome guests away. Another great item would be an Automatic Chicken Coop Door, where you can set the time via the control panel, when the door will open and close the coop at a certain time or based on the rising and setting sun, so they can still enjoy their freedom when you’re not home.
Can I mix different breeds of chicken?
Yes, in most cases you can mix breeds of hens, while it is better to let roosters be on their own.
If it comes to age, older chickens can sometimes bully chicks simply because of a pecking order issue. Suddenly, there are new chickens in the coop, and the older chickens want to establish themselves at the top of that pecking order but this is a natural conscious behaviour and has nothing to do with the breed itself. Real problems may occur by “mixing” breeds when you have e.g. five chickens that are very similar looking (like Rhode Island Reds and New Hampshire Reds) but only one chicken with a very different look. Chickens who look entirely different from the rest of their flock can get picked on.
Some crested chicken breeds e.g. the Polish do not see very well, because their crest feathers are in the way, which can be a disadvantage and might lead to getting pecked.
The most important thing to remember when integrating new birds into an existing flock is to isolate or quarantine all new birds for at least 30 days. This gives you time to observe all new birds for symptoms of disease and/or signs of external parasites and to treat them if necessary. Then once the 30 day isolation period is completed, introduce new chickens or chicks to the flock and always monitor the interactions between old and new chooks up close and personal until you’re sure that all is well. When they feel comfortable and get along, a simple daily check-up will do fine. For acquaintance, allow your chickens to free range and mingle together. More information regarding introducing new chicks to your flock you can find here.
Always remember, your feathered friends are living animals and you’re making a commitment to care for them properly. Make sure you have sufficient time and space for them to live happily and healthily.
If you keep your chickens in the above stated conditions, they will be grateful and thank you with some snuggles and delicious eggs. The better the pre-planning, the more relaxed you will be and the more satisfied your chickens will be.
Whether you want a steady supply of fresh eggs or simply the joy that chickens bring to a garden, the very first decision you’ll face is this: do you start with baby chicks, or do you skip straight to point-of-lay hens? For most beginners, the answer is adult birds. Specifically, started pullets (young hens on the verge of laying) offer the simplest, fastest, and lowest-risk entry into chicken keeping. That said, each path has its own appeal, and the right choice really does depend on your goals, your schedule, and how much hands-on care you’re ready to take on.
Here’s everything you need to know before you decide.
Should Beginners Start with Baby Chicks or Adult Chickens?
Most beginners are better off starting with adult birds, and here’s why.
Baby chicks are undeniably adorable, but they require a significant amount of hands-on care in their first weeks of life. You’ll need a brooder, a heat source, temperature monitoring, and special chick feed. They’re also fragile, vulnerable to temperature changes, and easy prey for predators. On top of all that, it takes around five months from hatch to first egg, which means a longer wait if you’re wanting your own flock for fresh eggs.
Adult hens are a different story. They’re robust, largely self-sufficient, and will typically start laying within a few weeks of settling into their new home. Set up a good chicken coop and run, introduce your birds, and you’re in business.
The bottom line: beginners absolutely can raise chicks, but you need to go in with your eyes open. If your primary goal is a healthy, productive flock with minimal stress, started pullets are the smarter starting point.
What Are Started Pullets and Why Should You Choose Them?
A started pullet is a young hen, typically around 16 to 20 weeks old, who is just about to begin laying eggs. She’s fully feathered, vaccinated, and ready to move straight into her new home without any of the intensive early-stage care that chicks demand.
The practical advantages
No brooder needed. Skip the heat lamps, temperature checks, and special chick starter feed entirely.
Outdoor-ready from day one. Set up your walk-in chicken run and coop, introduce your pullets, and let them settle in.
Eggs within weeks. Most pullets will begin laying shortly after they’ve adjusted to their new surroundings.
Guaranteed females. Reputable suppliers sell sexed pullets, so there’s no risk of ending up with roosters you can’t keep.
Easy to source. Local farms, agricultural merchants, and hatcheries all stock started pullets, with the best availability in spring and early summer.
When chicks make more sense
The only real reason to choose chicks over pullets is if you specifically want the experience of raising birds from a young age. Hand-rearing chicks does create a strong bond, and many keepers find it deeply rewarding. Families with children often love the process too.
But if fresh eggs and a low-fuss introduction to chicken keeping are your priorities, started pullets are the brilliant choice for beginners.
Adopting Rescue Hens: A Rewarding Alternative
One option that often gets overlooked by new chicken keepers is adopting rescue hens, and it’s one of the most rewarding routes you can take.
These birds are typically commercially reared hens that the farming industry has deemed past their productive prime. Most are retired at around 18 months old, even though they often have another 18 months or more of good laying ahead of them. Organisations across the UK work hard to rehome these birds before they’re sent to slaughter. The British Hen Welfare Trust (BHWT) is the most well-known, rehoming hundreds of thousands of hens every year.
What to expect when your rescue hens arrive
Rescue hens can arrive looking a little rough. Missing feathers, timid behaviour, and pale combs are all common after a life in commercial housing. Don’t be alarmed. With good feed, clean water, and space to roam, the transformation is remarkable.
Within just a few weeks, most rescue hens are unrecognisable. Feathers grow back, personalities emerge, and eggs start appearing in the nest box. It’s genuinely one of the most satisfying experiences in chicken keeping.
A few things worth knowing:
Rescue hens from reputable organisations are health-screened before rehoming, so serious health conditions are unlikely.
They are typically free or available for a small donation, making them one of the most affordable ways to start a flock.
They will still give you around 4 to 5 eggs per week during their remaining laying years.
What You Need to Know Before Buying Baby Chicks
If you’ve decided that you do want the experience of raising chicks, there are a few things you need to understand before you commit.
Sexing: the most important thing to get right
Chicks have no obvious external differences between males and females. Any birds sold as “straight run” are an unsorted mix of both sexes, roughly 50/50. Most garden keepers don’t want cockerels, so the safest approach is to buy sexed chicks from a hatchery or breeder who can confirm the birds are female.
Before you buy anything, check your local council rules and any deed restrictions on your property. Many residential areas have restrictions on keeping cockerels due to noise. If sexed chicks aren’t available from your preferred supplier, it’s worth waiting until they are rather than accepting a flock that might include males you’re unable to keep.
Where to source your chicks
With most breeders and hatcheries releasing chicks in late winter and early spring, it pays to plan ahead. Get on waiting lists early. Good starting points include searching the Poultry Club of Great Britain’s breeder directory or asking at your local agricultural merchant or smallholder show.
Be honest about your schedule
Chicks need regular attention during their first few weeks. If you travel frequently or have a particularly busy period coming up, it’s worth waiting until your schedule allows you to be present. The brooder stage is short, but it does require you to be around.
Setting Up a Brooder Box for Chicks
A brooder is a warm, enclosed space where your chicks will live for their first four to five weeks. You don’t need anything fancy to get started.
What you’ll need
A large cardboard box or a plastic storage tub works perfectly well as a brooder. The key priorities are warmth, ventilation, and protection from drafts.
Heat source and space
Use a heat plate or red heat bulb rather than a white bulb. White bulbs produce constant light, which stresses chicks and encourages feather pecking. Your chicks will tell you if the temperature is right: if they’re huddled directly under the heat source, they’re cold; if they’re pressing against the edges of the brooder, they’re too warm. Use the guide below for your week-by-week temperature:
Week 1: 35°C
Week 2: 32°C
Week 3: 29°C
Week 4: 27°C
Week 5: 24°C or match outdoor temperature
Reduce the temperature by around 3°C each week until it matches the outdoor temperature and your chicks are ready to move outside.
Allow at least 6 square inches per chick and add more space as they grow. Cover the top with wire mesh to keep air circulating and stop the chicks jumping out once their wings develop.
Moving chicks outdoors
From around two weeks old, chicks can spend short supervised periods outside if it’s at least 18°C and dry. At around 12 weeks, they can move permanently into an outdoor coop and run. An Eglu Go chicken coop is a brilliant option at this stage, easy to clean and predator-resistant from day one. Remove the roosting bars from inside the coop at first, until the chicks are big enough to perch and walk across the bars safely, and add plenty of bedding to keep the chicks warm.
How to Breed Your Own Chickens from Fertilised Eggs
For experienced keepers who want to go one step further, breeding your own chickens from fertilised eggs is a deeply satisfying option. However, it does require more planning and equipment, so it might not be the right time if this is your first flock. Here’s what to know if you are considering it.
What you’ll need to get started
Hatching eggs can be ordered online from hatcheries or purchased from specialist breeders and farms. Or you can introduce a cockerel to your flock to naturally mate with your hens. The cockerel will do the rest, fertilising eggs as part of the flock’s natural routine.
From there, you have two options:
Let a broody hen do the work. If one of your hens goes broody (meaning she’s determined to sit on and hatch eggs), you can let nature take its course. A broody hen can typically manage 10 to 12 eggs, and she’ll turn them regularly without any help from you. This is by far the easiest hatching method.
Use an egg incubator. If you don’t have a broody hen, or you want more control over the process, an incubator is the alternative. Some modern incubators automate both temperature regulation and egg turning, which makes the process considerably more manageable for beginners to hatching.
The hatching process
After 21 days, the chicks will begin to hatch. This process can take up to 24 hours per chick and should never be rushed or interfered with. Resist the urge to help a chick out of its shell; the struggle is part of its development.
One important thing to plan for: hatching your own chicks means you’ll get a mix of males and females. Have a plan in place for any cockerels before you begin – bear in mind that rehoming them can be difficult, so it’s worth thinking this through in advance.
Which Option Is Right for You? A Quick Summary
Here’s a quick recap to help you decide:
Choose started pullets if you want fresh eggs as soon as possible, you’re new to chicken keeping, and you want a low-maintenance introduction to the hobby.
Choose rescue hens if you want an affordable, rewarding option and you’re happy to invest a little extra care in the first few weeks.
Choose baby chicks if you specifically want the experience of raising birds from a young age, you have the time to care for them properly, and you’re prepared to wait for your first eggs.
Choose to hatch your own if you’re an experienced keeper looking to expand or refine your flock, and you have the space and time to manage the process.
Omlet and your flock
Whatever route you choose, getting the housing right is the single most important thing you can do for your flock. Our chicken coops and walk-in runs are designed to make chicken keeping genuinely easy, whether you’re welcoming pullets, rescue hens, or a brood of fluffy chicks. We also have expert guides covering every stage of flock life to help you feel confident from day one.
Raising chickens can be a rewarding and surprisingly low-maintenance experience. While chickens are largely self-sufficient, they still rely on you to provide the essentials for their health and wellbeing. With the right supplies, you can help your flock thrive, ensuring they stay happy, healthy, and productive. In this guide, you’ll discover everything you need to keep your chickens in top condition, from supplements and grit, to coop hygiene and more.
Diatomaceous Earth
Diatomaceous earth is a naturally occurring sedimentary rock that’s non-toxic and highly absorbent. It’s a favorite among chicken keepers for its effectiveness as a natural insecticide, especially in preventing red mite and other parasites in chicken coops. The fine powder works by dehydrating pests, making it a safe and chemical-free solution for your flock.
How to Use:
Sprinkle diatomaceous earth in the corners and crevices of your coop, focusing on areas where mites might hide.
Mix it into your chickens’ dust bath to help control external parasites.
Some keepers add a small amount to chicken feed, but always ensure it’s food grade and not pool grade.
Safety Tips:
Always wear a mask when handling diatomaceous earth, as the fine dust can irritate your lungs.
Keep it away from your chickens’ eyes and respiratory systems.
Chicken Coop Cleaner
A clean coop and nestboxes are essential for healthy hens, as regular cleaning helps prevent the buildup of harmful bacteria and parasites. You’ll need a pet-safe disinfectant to use on your chickens’ housing to keep their environment safe.
Plastic vs. Wooden Coops:
Plastic coops, like Eglu coops, are easy to clean and come with removable droppings trays.
Wooden coops absorb ammonia from chicken urine and are more difficult to clean, which can cause health problems for hens. With wooden coops, you may need to clean more regularly and vigorously to maintain a healthy environment.
Cleaning Routine:
Wipe surfaces down weekly with a pet-safe disinfectant.
Deep clean the coop and nest boxes at least once a month.
Apple cider vinegar (ACV) is a popular supplement among chicken keepers. It’s known for its ability to boost the immune system, improve digestion, and support overall health.
Benefits:
Enhances gut health and helps prevent digestive issues.
Can be used to clean waterers, removing limescale and keeping water fresh.
How to Use:
Add a small amount (about 1 tablespoon per gallon) to your chickens’ water a few times a week.
Use ACV to clean accessories, ensuring they’re free from buildup.
Chicken Grit
Chickens don’t have teeth, so they rely on grit, a mix of small stones and calcium sources like crushed oyster shells, to help them digest food.
Why Grit Matters:
Grit stays in the gizzard, grinding down food so chickens can absorb nutrients.
Without grit, chickens can’t process larger food items, which can lead to blockages.
Grit also provides essential minerals for strong bones and eggshells.
How to Provide:
Offer grit in a separate container so chickens can take what they need.
Grit should be available at all times.
Chicken Supplements
Supplements can play a key role in maintaining your chickens’ health, especially if you want to support egg production and immunity.
Essential Nutrients:
Calcium and phosphorus are crucial for high-quality eggs.
Garlic powder is recognized for its immune-boosting and deworming properties, and it can help eliminate red mite.
Herbal Additions:
Fresh or dried herbs like oregano, thyme, and mint can be added to feed or scattered in the coop to protect against infections and parasites.
Electrolytes are vital for hydration and recovery, especially during periods of stress or extreme heat.
What They Do:
Contain sodium, potassium, and calcium to help regulate body temperature and support recovery.
Useful after predator attacks or environmental changes.
How to Use:
Offer electrolytes in water for a few hours at a time to prevent overconsumption.
Essential Chicken Supplies Table
Key Takeaways
Diatomaceous earth is useful for multiple things, including dust baths and mite prevention in the coop itself.
Chicken-safe cleaners help keep the coop clean and support flock health.
Apple cider vinegar, electrolytes, and supplements are important to support your chickens’ overall health.
Grit is essential so your flock can properly digest their food.
Chicken mite treatments and antiseptic spray help prevent and treat mites.
Sand or dry topsoil is ideal for dust baths, allowing your chickens to stay clean while having fun.
Egg cartons are perfect for storing the delicious eggs your chickens reward you with.
Omlet and Your Flock
At Omlet, we’re dedicated to helping you keep your flock happy and healthy. Our Eglu Coops are designed for easy cleaning and effective mite prevention, making chicken keeping simpler and more enjoyable. With the right supplies and a little care, you’ll be rewarded with a thriving flock and plenty of delicious eggs.
Enjoy collecting fresh eggs from your Eglu chicken coop!
A fresh egg every day – that’s just one of the best things about having your own flock of chickens in your garden. But it’s not that simple. For the private keeping of chickens, there are some legal frameworks and conditions you must take into consideration – and those may differ from country to country.
To receive the most accurate and timely information and policies to avoid obsolete and incorrect information, please always contact the responsible authority for a local law and/or ordinance regarding livestock and poultry or an official veterinarian as a first point of contact.
Do you need to register your chickens?
Depending on the country you live in, you might need to register your chickens. In some countries, like the UK or U.S., you must register your chickens within one month by using the compulsory registration form if you keep 50 or more birds in your premises. This is important, as if you don’t register your chickens, you’re breaking the law. The law also applies if you keep flocks made up of different species, – chickens, ducks, geese, guinea fowl, patridges, pheasants, pigeons or turkeys – and birds for the consumption of meat and eggs.
In Germany, every single chicken has to be registered directly on the first day with the responsible veterinary office and must be reported to the animal disease fund. This applies to all types of poultry. This is important in order to reduce the risk of spread of an epidemic quickly and efficiently.
How many chickens make a perfect flock?
To answer this question, one major consideration is how much space you have for your chickens and how many eggs you need.
As a mature hen lays about two eggs in three days on average, keeping three to six chickens will ensure you always have a steady supply of eggs for your family. However, if your family really loves eggs or plans to give eggs away occasionally, you may wish to consider expanding your flock.
In general, it’s good to start with at least three chickens – if there’s an unexpected death, you won’t be left with a lonely one. In a breeding flock, a rooster will need four to six hens.
Space requirements of chickens vary depending on the size and breed of the chicks, and how long you are free ranging the chickens during the day. Although it is recommended to have a minimum size of 2-3 square feet per hen, please keep in your mind, the bigger, the better!
Nevertheless, it is important to have an outdoor enclosure, like the Walk In Chicken Run, to keep your chickens safe from avian predators. Another good defense against unwanted “night visitors” is a chicken coop door. If you come home late in the evening and need an alternative way of closing them safely inside, anAutomatic Chicken Coop Door is recommended. With the control panel you can set the automatic door so that it opens and closes the coop at a certain time or based on the rising and setting sun.
The Omlet Autodoor opens horizontally, meaning it cannot simply be lifted up when it is closed by predators, so you and your chickens can sleep peacefully knowing that you have the safest automatic chicken door in the world.
If you have ground predators, you can also protect your flock with an electric poultry fencing.
Do my chickens need to be vaccinated?
Different countries have different requirements for poultry vaccinations, so check with the government environmental website or a local vet for advice. However, there are some diseases you should be aware of and may consider vaccinating against, such as the Bird Flu (e.g. Avian Influenza), Newcastle disease and Marek’s disease.
Bird Flu can infect domestic poultry and other bird and animal species. In the worst scenario, if e.g. the avian influenza affects a flock, the flock has to be put down. These viruses do not normally infect humans. For more information, please visit our blog article What You Need To Know About Avian Flu.
The Newcastle disease can vary from mild to severe and unfortunately, there is no treatment for Newcastle disease yet – but when given between 14 and 21 days of age, a vaccine can help to prevent this disease. Newcastle disease is also transmissible to humans.
Marek’s Disease is caused by a chicken herpes virus and affects the chicken’s central nervous system. Like many herpes viruses, once an animal becomes infected, it will be infected for life. However, not all infected birds will get sick. This disease isn’t contagious to humans.
For the health and safety of your chicken and flock, and to prevent the risk of spread, it is definitely recommended to vaccinate them. Especially if you plan to sell or buy chickens, you need to vaccinate your hens.
And remember: always isolate new flock members for at least 30 days!
Do I need permission for chicken keeping?
Depending on where you live, some cities and towns have restrictions and regulations on chicken keeping, for example, the number of chickens that can be kept, the minimum and maximum size of the coop in which the chickens will be housed or a minimum distance to the neighbouring property. Some areas prohibit the keeping of roosters due to the extra noise; others require that all chickens be leg-banded for identification purposes.
However, you may also be subject to by-laws, lease conditions or the deeds to your house preventing you from keeping chickens, and there are rules that may apply to back-garden poultry keepers, so be sure to check your local restrictions before buying chickens.
In addition, you might want to consider your neighbours when raising chickens. Although lots of people will be won over with the promise of fresh eggs, it might be a good idea to check with your neighbours first, and assess your gardens to ensure you’ve done all you can to prevent your hens hopping over to their vegetable patch!
The Omlet Eglu Cube houses up to 6 large hens or 10 bantams!
What are other considerations of keeping chickens in my yard?
Some regulations require you to meet some minimum requirements. In Spain, for example, the legislative provisions stipulate, you need to keep the noise level as low as possible, the chicken coop must be well illuminated and regular veterinary care must be provided.
Most suburban councils will limit the number of birds you can keep or even prohibit roosters on residential properties due to the disturbance they could cause to neighbours.
Australia is an interesting example of how different local restrictions can be. In Victoria, residences with backyards can have a maximum of five chickens, whereas New South Wales allows no more than 10 chickens in residential areas. In Western Australia, owners can keep up to 12 poultry birds. Furthermore, it is prohibited to keep roosters in general in Queensland, New South Wales and Western Australia.
Even the height of the perch where your chooks sleep on is set at around 30 cm off the ground.
Although there are many different regulations andlaws when it comes to chicken keeping, there is one inevitable rule which applies to all countries and local areas: chickens need access to fresh bedding, food and water at all times!
Always be sure you are in accordance with local ordinances and up-to-date before embarking on your chicken-keeping endeavor, especially as policies and law can change. Obtaining information such as the correct local hen house keeping (farming method for laying hens) or the examination of species-appropriate hen houses is important, – each country has its own animal welfare requirements and regulations, and should not be ignored.
Cockerels have three main purposes in a flock of chickens. They protect the hens by warning of any danger, they enable you to breed your own chicks, and they look fabulous. Sometimes, however, the cockerel’s protective instincts becomes a problem, and the bird becomes over-aggressive. This can be a particular issue in the spring, which is the breeding season.
Cockerels are wired to protect their hens. If you watch the flock foraging in a garden, the loud clucking of a hen will bring the cockerel running to make sure everything’s okay. If a hen squawks when you pick her up, the cockerel will put on an aggressive display until you put her down again. As long as this doesn’t involve physical attacks, there’s no problem. Some cockerels will physically attack, though.
If these face-offs continue, the cockerel might decide that you – and all humans – represent danger and will try to fight you off at all times. Luckily, you can usually defuse the situation.
Cockerels give warning of their intention to attack. They lower their heads and perform a strutting dance while looking straight at you. Things get trickier if the cockerel decides to run up and attack your legs, like an angry farmyard goose. If you’re walking away, the cockerel may chase you from the yard, and that can cause nasty surprises too.
How Do You Stop a Rooster From Attacking You?
Don’t walk straight towards the cockerel when you enter the place where the chickens are kept.
Don’t stare at the cockerel unless he’s already behaving aggressively, as this is a sign of aggression as far as he’s concerned – you’re fixing your eyes on him and his flock just like a predator would.
Don’t tiptoe around or run away if the cockerel looks at you, as these are signs that you’re afraid, and the cockerel might take this as a cue to rush in and finish the job!
Don’t dash around the yard – the cockerel equates quick movements with predators. Go about your business in the chicken yard in a calm, slow but focused way.
Make sure your hens are in a stress-free environment. If there are prowling dogs or unruly children running amongst the hens, their clucks and squawks will send the rooster into overdrive to protect his girls.
If your cockerel brings you small ‘gifts’ such as stones or twigs, don’t be too flattered. He is treating you like a hen, and you will have to refuse the gifts and shoo him away, otherwise he will think he’s subdued you with his presents!
Don’t crowd the cockerel. If he feels trapped in a corner, he is likely to fight his way out.
How to Handle an Aggressive Cockerel
Never respond to an angry cockerel with violence.
This will have no positive effect on the cockerel or flock’s behaviour afterwards, and it can result in serious injury to the bird. He may be aggressive, but a cockerel is still a bird, fragile bones and all.
A cockerel should be lifted with thick protective gloves to remove him to a safe place or away from the eye of the storm. Your arms and legs shouldn’t be bare when handling the rooster, and your footwear should be sturdy too. If the cockerel is only in the early stages of aggression, he can often be calmed down with a few treats. It is a good idea to carry treats with you whenever you’re in the same place as the cockerel. After you’ve fed him a few times, he will come to associate you with treats rather than danger. The treats should be hand-offered. If you throw them down and then run away, the rooster will recognise that you’re afraid, and the problems might continue.
A more hands-on – or feet-on – method is to gently roll the cockerel over with your safely booted foot when he approaches you looking for trouble. After a few of these gentle wrestling throws, the cockerel will realise that you’re the top bird in the run and give you no more trouble. In theory, at least!
How to Lift an Angry Cockerel
Alternatively, when the cockerel tries to peck you, scoop him up with your gloved hands and hold him like you would hold a hen, under your arm. The cockerel will flap and squawk angrily, but he will eventually calm down if you ignore these protestations. This may take 10 to 15 minutes, but it’s time well spent if it means that the cockerel will not attempt to attack you again.
If the cockerel has not yet attacked, you may be able to deter him by taking a large, deliberate step towards him, looking at him as you do so. If the rooster starts to fidget and looks at the ground or starts pecking it, you have won the battle, and you can back down without fear of attack.
The key to all these methods is to make the cockerel realise that you’re not a threat to his hens. Protecting the flock is all he wants to do. If that doesn’t work, and if the cockerel starts to stretch his wings and neck ready for attack, stretch out your arms. Carrying a stick can help here, as it makes your ‘wingspan’ look even greater in the rooster’s eyes.
Treat holders and peck toys will keep your chickens entertained for hours!
What is the Most Aggressive Rooster?
Circumstantial evidence suggests that some cockerels are just born mean! In these cases, the cockerel’s instinct to protect a flock of hens is in constant overdrive. The aggression is occasionally seen when the birds are still chicks, although it is more usual for the aggression to kick in at 6 to 8 months old. Although the breed of the chicken makes a certain amount of difference, even supposedly gentle breeds can sometimes decide to take no prisoners in the chicken yard!
The most aggressive rooster breeds are said to be Aseel (allegedly the biggest bullies of all), Cornish, Leghorn, Malay, Old English Game and all other traditional ‘cockfighting’ or ‘game’ species.
What is the Least Aggressive Rooster?
The least aggressive roosters include the Australorp, Brahma, Polish, Silkie and Welsummer. Bantam breeds tend to be relatively calm, too. However, there are occasional ‘bad pennies’ in all breeds, and some cockerels just seem to hit an aggressive streak and never entirely leave it behind.
Constantly aggressive roosters are a real problem, especially if you have children wandering in the garden. A cockerel readily backs up his anger with a physical attack, and he is armed with sharp spurs – the spikes on his legs – that can do real damage. If all attempts to calm the cockerel down fail, the tyrant rooster will have to be rehoused.
If you have chosen a non-aggressive breed of cockerel, and if your chickens have lots of space, you will seldom have major problems with rooster aggression. Let cockerels know who’s boss as soon as they hit adulthood, never accept those tempting little gifts, and you should be recognised by all your chickens as being top of the pecking order.
Bird flu, also known as avian influenza, is back in the headlines, and new restrictions have been imposed on chicken keepers. In these circumstances, it is natural to ask whether wild birds present a major risk.
Wild birds are not the main source of the spread of the disease, however, even though they can act as reservoirs for the virus. It is human commercial activities associated with poultry farming that are the major cause of the bird flu’s spread across the world. If you are keeping just a few chickens, most of the risks can be avoided by simple hygiene and protective housing measures.
Avian influenza (bird flu)
As its name suggest, the avian flu virus is a form of influenza (flu) biologically adapted to bird hosts. Avian influenza is not a virus specific to chickens and poultry, and in theory any bird, wild or domestic, can be infected. The disease is always been at large somewhere in the world, and the safety risk for UK wild birds and bird keepers is currently quite high.
Bird flu – good news and bad news
In theory, any species of wild bird can catch the flu. Waterfowl such as geese, swans and ducks are thought to be major carriers of the disease, sometimes displaying no symptoms themselves. Chickens that come into contact with avian influenza are likely to catch it.
But let’s look at the good news first. The risk to human health from wild bird diseases, including avian influenza, are extremely low. In 99.9% of cases, humans affected by the highly virulent H5N1 strain of the bird flu have caught it from intensively reared poultry. The disease is not easily transmitted from human to human, and there have been no cases of avian influenza in humans in the UK, in spite of the safety risk for UK birds currently classed as high.
Similarly, chickens that are kept in runs and subject to common sense precautions are unlikely to catch the disease. Unless you live in an area suffering a major avian influenza outbreak, the visitors to your bird table are unlikely to be carriers of the disease.
Now for the bad news… If only one wild bird in a thousand is a carrier of avian influenza, that’s still one too many. Like it or not, backyard chickens are at risk. This is why new rules and new housing measures were introduced in December 2020.
What are the new rules for keeping chickens due to bird flu?
On 14 December 2020 it became a legal requirement for all poultry keepers, regardless of the size of the flock, to keep their birds indoors and follow strict biosecurity measures to combat the spread of avian influenza. A joint statement from the three Chief Veterinary Officers announced:
“Whether you keep just a few birds or thousands, from 14 December onwards you will be legally required to keep your birds indoors or take appropriate steps to keep them separate from wild birds. We have not taken this decision lightly, but it is the best way to protect your birds from this highly infectious disease.”
All poultry keepers must implement these new housing measures and precautions until further notice:
House all poultry and captive birds, or keep them in a run or fenced-off area outdoors
Cover the runs or pens with a solid top to minimise wild bird droppings entering the enclosure
Do not allow people other than the owners to enter the run or enclosure
Implement effective vermin control (rats, etc) as these animals can spread disease
Disinfecting clothing, footwear, equipment and other items used for cleaning the chicken coop and run, along with the feeders, drinkers, etc.
Use the same pair of boots when entering the run or enclosure, and do not use this footwear for any other purpose (walking, shopping, etc)
Make sure the chickens’ feed and water is separate from wild birds
Keep weed wild bird tables and feeding stations away from the chicken run
Avian flu in wild birds
The chances of a human catching avian influenza directly from birds that visit the garden are practically nil. This is no reason to avoid basic precautions, however, especially if you keep chickens. Keeping bird feeding stations clean is important, to avoid droppings and moulds accumulating. These can impact the health of wild birds and lower their immune systems. You should always wash your hands after restocking or cleaning a feeding station, or after any situation that brings you into contact with bird droppings (feeding the ducks in the local park, for example).
Sick or dead wild birds should not be touched. In general, you do not need to report the discovery of a dead bird. However, if dead ducks, geese, swans, gulls or birds of prey should be reported, as should the discovery of five or more dead birds of any species in one place. In these situations, contact the Defra helpline (03459 335577; 0300 200 7840 in Northern Ireland).
How do I know if my chicken has bird flu?
Chickens with avian influenza will display various symptoms. They may be less active than usual, and will lose their appetite and show signs of nervousness. Their egg production will drop, and eventually their combs and wattles will look swollen, with a blue discoloration. Other avian influenza symptoms in poultry include coughs, sneezes and diarrhoea. Unfortunately, many of these avian influenza symptoms are associated with other ailments, too, so a vet will need to make the diagnosis.
It can take 14 days for an avian influenza outbreak to spread throughout a flock. Some infected birds may exhibit no signs, even though they are still potential virus carriers. Others may sicken and die very quickly.
How to treat avian flu in chickens
You can reduce the risk of avian influenza in your poultry by following the latest guidelines issued by Defra and the government. The NFU has a very useful page containing guidance and the latest news regarding bird flu.
Vaccination of a flock at risk from the avian influenza virus is the only method of prevention. If avian influenza affects a flock, the flock has to be put down.
“All bird keepers (whether you have pet birds, commercial flocks or just a few birds in a backyard flock) must keep a close watch on them for signs of disease and maintain good biosecurity at all times. If you have any concerns about the health of your birds, seek prompt advice from your vet.”
The main takeaway messages
The new rules about housing chickens apply to everyone
Feeding wild birds in the garden is still safe
Simple precautions and good cleaning regimes minimise the dangers
How cold is too cold for chickens? Chickens can tolerate cold weather, however, baby chicks are less likely to do so. The primary concern in cold temperatures is whether your chickens are becoming wet. If they are and cannot dry off, this can be cause for concern.
Our guide walks you through the optimum temperatures for chickens, how to care for your hens in winter, and which breeds are the most hardy.
How cold is too cold for chickens?
Chickens will regulate their temperature and behavior accordingly, so wherever humans can live, chickens can thrive too. Chickens can tolerate cold even under freezing temperatures. This makes caring for chickens in winter relatively simple, as only a few adjustments to your usual routine will need to be made. It is the combination of cold and wet that can prove fatal, so it’s vital to ensure your hens have a dry chicken coop. Any of your birds that become soaked should be toweled dry. Applying Vaseline to their combs will prevent frostbite and help them tolerate the cold.
Ideal temperatures for adult chickens
While chickens can tolerate the cold, their preferred weather is in the 70 degrees Fahrenheit range. You’ll find that your adult chickens can survive cold temperatures into the teens. However, we recommend keeping a thermometer in your coop to track its temperature. You should find that the insulation of your coop and the warmth created by the chickens themselves is enough to help them tolerate the cold.
Ideal temperatures for baby chicks
Baby chicks are far more sensitive to cold temperatures and are not able to tolerate them as well as full-grown hens. This is both due to their smaller size and the fact their feathers are not yet fully developed to keep them warm. When your chicks firsthatch you should keep them at around 90-95 degrees Fahrenheit. After this you can reduce the temperature they’re kept at around 5 degrees a week until you get into the 70 – 75 Fahrenheit range.
Keep your chickens’ coop warm & cozy
The type of coop you have makes a big difference in how cold your chickens will tolerate. In really cold winters, a wooden coop with a drafty coop door can soon become damp and semi-frozen – not to mention very drafty. This dampness combined with the cold weather will make winter more difficult for be more tricky for your flock to tolerate.
On the other hand, a more robust state-of-the-art chicken coop such as the Eglu will keep out the cold and damp – enabling chickens to tolerate the cold weather after a busy day in their run. You’ll find that an Eglu will stay much warmer during the winter than a wooden coop. The temperature in the Eglu will remain moderate when all the hens are tucked in at night. Our Eglus are insulated by design, but if the winter becomes colder than usual you can easily add extreme weather protection to further insulate your coop.
You can help your backyard chickens keep warm in the frost and help them weather the cold by making sure the coop is clean and dry. Clear out any snow dragged in on the hens’ feet and keep an insulating layer of straw on the floor. Doing this will help your chickens to tolerate the colder weather. If you also insulate your chicken runs, there should still be some ventilation, to allow the gasses released from the birds’ droppings to escape.
An automatic door will help keep the living quarters cozy, too. It’s not advised to install a coop heater – even those rated for hen houses. Hens may get used to being overly warm all the time, which could be disastrous if the heater fails. Heat-pampered poultry can die of shock when introduced to lower temperatures, as they will not have become acclimated to tolerating the cold.
4 signs your chicken is too cold
When ensuring your chickens will tolerate the cold, it’s important to know the signs for when the weather may have made them uncomfortable. Here’s what to look out for:
Ruffled feathers
Perched off the ground
One leg tucked up
Wattles and combs are paler than usual
These are not signs of distress, and as long as the chicken is only having a brief rest, rather than staying hunkered up for the whole day, you don’t have to worry. If hens go off their feed, appear to be in shock, or have discolored (blue or black) combs, wattles or feet, it’s time to bring them inside to warm up slowly.
Keeping chickens dry in cold temperatures
While chickens can tolerate the cold, they should not be allowed to remain soaking wet. This is more dangerous than the outdoor temperature or the falling snow – and in extreme cases will result in hypothermia. Any affected hens will be stiff and cold to the touch, with their eyes wide and unblinking, or closed. If you find one of your chickens in this state, take them indoors and wrap them in a warm towel. When they recover, put them in a bedding-lined box in a warm spot for a few hours.
What happens if a chick gets too cold?
Chicks are less tolerant of the cold and are more susceptible to lower temperatures than adult chickens. If a young chicken has its full coat of feathers, it will be as tolerant of the cold as the older birds. Chicks, however, will need protection from the cold, and should be kept under an appropriate heat lamp. Any chick left to fend for itself in cold weather will die.
Tips for cold weather chicken care
Chickens can usually tolerate adapting to colder climates, but how can you tell when your flock needs a bit of help keeping warm? The following tips will help you keep happy, healthy chickens this winter:
Prevent water from freezing – Check it at least twice a day to keep it clear of ice. If a freeze is forecast, bring thechicken waterersindoors at night. If possible, buy a water heater designed for the job of preventing freezing. Ping-pong balls in the water can also prevent freezing.
Chickens usually return to the coop at dusk, but in the winter, you may find your birds trying to get more pecking time from the short days. If your hens tend to wander in the dark, a high visibility hen coat will help you locate them. The coats also keep the birds cozy, so it’s a double blessing in the Winter to help chickens tolerate the cold.
Providing weather-proof shelter in the chicken run will give the hens some respite while tolerating the cold. You can use chicken run covers to do this.
Some extra corn offered as a chicken treat before the hen’s bedtime will stoke their internal heater as the chickens digest it overnight. In general, hens will eat more food in the cold months to tolerate the cold, as more of their energy is spent keeping warm.
Protect combs and wattles – from frostbite with petroleum jelly or Vaseline.
Specially made coop heaters or brooder plates can be placed in enclosed spaces such as barns or garages for hens that are struggling in the cold, but should be used sparingly. And, these should only be used for a short amount of time, and only if someone will be home to avoid a potential fire-hazard.
If you do not have a cozy Eglu, a wooden coop can be insulated with bubble-wrap, cardboard or old carpets or blankets.
Extra bedding on the floor of the coop will help the chickens tolerate the cold, too.
Some owners like to supplement their chickens’ diets with extra protein or a little suet, to increase their fat levels for the Winter. Fat retains heat, and the whole bird benefits from the added nutrition.
How do chickens naturally keep warm in the winter?
The chicken’s secret to tolerating the cold is natural insulation. Their feathers help them retain body heat and warm the air trapped beneath their downy base feathers. When they’re at rest, a hen’s body temperature is 104–107F, with their heart rate of around 400 beats per minute – evidence of a high metabolism that sets up the birds very well for winter weather.
Watching hens scratch at the frozen ground or strut through the snow, you might wonder how chickens manage to keep their feet and legs warm. After all, this is one part of their body with no feathers to keep it cozy (unless you happen to have a feathery-legged breed such as the Cochin, Brahma or Silkie). The answer lies in the chicken’s leg scales, which retain heat to a certain extent. The average chicken will always be on the move, not keeping all its toes on the ground for too long.
Does perching help chickens tolerate the cold?
Like many other birds, chickens often adopt the ‘one leg’ pose in the winter, tucking one of their limbs up into the warmth of their bellies. This reduces overall heat loss and stops feet and toes from freezing on the icy ground. Like all birds, chickens are warm-blooded, and their own body heat soon works its magic to help them tolerate the cold.
Perching is the most effective way for a chicken to retain body heat and tolerate the cold. Hens hunker down when roosting, with their feathers fluffed up and their legs tucked into her warm body. If space allows, install a flat perch in your coop or run. This will enable the hens to roost without having to curl their toes around the roosting bar, which will prevent their toes from freezing in very cold weather. An upturned pot, a log, pallet or other slightly elevated space will give the birds a flat surface to perch on, to escape the ice and snow.
Can chickens freeze to death?
Chickens can usually tolerate cold conditions and will not die, as long as they have a warm coop to retreat into when the weather becomes extreme. Cold hens may be more susceptible than usual to illness and parasites, though, and their egg production will fall. But, most chickens will simply hunker down on chicken perches and in nesting boxes, with their feathers fluffed out to weather the winter.
The best chicken breeds for cold weather
While most chickens can tolerate the cold, there are some chicken breeds that are more suited to cold climates than others. Here are the top 5 for cold temperatures:
Omlet can help you care for your chickens and ensure they’re enjoying each season to the fullest. From chicken pens to run around in, to toys such as chicken swings to keep them entertained, you’re sure to find everything you need to keep your flock healthy and happy all year round!
It’s nice to have chickens in your garden but they need to stay there! Seeing them fly away and attempting to catch them again is not necessarily the easiest of tasks. It’s stressful for everyone and sometimes even dangerous for your chickens! So what is the solution? Cut off their wings? Obviously not, but here are a number of flap busting techniques that may help to keep your feathery friends on the ground.
Why Does My Chicken Want to Fly Away?
If you are dealing with a runaway chicken it could be for several reasons. Each chicken’s character is different from one bird to another. While some like to lounge under a tree or in their chicken run, others prefer to frolic in search of freedom. This traveling and sometimes adventurous spirit can be associated with certain breeds of chickens. So, it’s not uncommon to find breeds such as the Leghorn or the Gauloise, for example, perched on a branch to rest. This is mainly due to their lighter weight in comparison to other breeds. Evolved with a fairly developed herd instinct, it only takes one chicken to take flight for the rest to follow suit.
However, sometimes your chickens may fly away, or even jump, not to rest but to escape a situation. A sudden or unusual situation can induce panic. A visit from a dog, the presence of a wild predator such as a fox, or the triggering of an unexpected high pitched noise can stress your hens and cause them to flee. They then have two options: run or try to fly. Under stress, fear and panic they can easily surprise you and fly higher than you think. They may even injure themselves in a panic to get away. So how do you avoid this kind of situation?
How Can I Prevent My Chicken From Flying Away?
There are three main precautions that can be taken when you have a flight-happy chicken:
Choose a quiet but well placed area in your garden to set up your chicken coop. If you have space, keep the chicken coop away from potential dangers: roads, parking areas, children’s toys. Here, your chickens should feel safe. Their chicken coop is their home, they need to be able to eat, peck and sleep in peace.
Invest in a fairly large enclosure. Having a high enough fence can deter them from trying to fly and protect them from potential animal attacks and external dangers. An enclosed space, like the Walk in Chicken Run, is ideal for giving chickens a safe area to exercise and stretch their wings, without escape.
The third precaution is often known to chicken owners, but it is not often applied. However, this is an elementary precaution when bringing a bird into a chicken coop. It regards cutting the feathers of a single wing in order to unbalance your chicken and stop them from being able to take flight. But how to do it? Take a pair of clippers and cut the flight feathers, that is, the larger feathers. You can also cut the primary and secondary flight feathers. The feathers must be cut halfway for it to be effective. Rest assured, we only cut Keratin (what our hair and nails are made of). It’s like going to the hairdressers!
Find the tutorial video “How to Clip your Chickens Wings (Safe and painless) (Easy to do)” by here.
Providing a comfortable living space, and large, safe enclosure will keep your hens happy and healthy in their home. And if necessary, wing clipping can be an effective solution for particularly determined escapees.
Most chicken keepers will fall into the eventually of “chicken math”. First, it was three, then four and now you’re thinking an eighth hen wouldn’t hurt…right? The idea of having flockmate best friends sounds great, but being the same species isn’t always enough for chickens to live in harmony. Certain chickens get along better than others, but which breeds make for besties?
Normal chicken behaviour
All different breeds of chicken have been developed from the same ancestor, the Asian Jungle Fowl, and so fortunately, most chickens get along, regardless of the variety. However, there are some exceptions to this general rule.
Any new hen introduced to a flock will need to be separated from the other birds, but still be able to see them through a fence, for a week or so until all the birds get used to each other. Once introduced, they will find their natural place in the chicken pecking order, and that may involve a little bullying and squabbling in the early days. This is all very natural and has nothing to do with feuds between specific breeds.
Occasionally, one hen will fall out with another for no obvious reason, and the weaker chicken will sometimes be pecked and harassed by the more aggressive bird. If this situation continues for more than three days after introducing the new chicken, the two combatants may need to be separated.
What breeds of chickens are aggressive?
Some chicken varieties are more confident and assertive than others, but this does not make them aggressive. Aggression is usually the result of environment – poor living conditions – or visual stimulus. The chicken bullying only usually persists beyond the first few days if the new hen has unusual plumage on its head. The fancy crown of feathers on the Araucana, Houdan, Poland, Silkie and Sultan breeds, for example, is like a red rag to a bull for some hens.
The reasons for this aggression are purely instinctive. Chickens respond to the size of their fellow birds’ combs, and there is evidence that larger-combed chickens tend to dominate the pecking order and will challenge any large-combed newcomer to assert and retain her dominance. No one is entirely sure how the visual stimulus works with feather-crowned breeds. A chicken with feathers on its head is judged by the other hens to be one of two things – either a bird with a very large comb, and therefore a threat, or one with no comb at all, which makes it fair game for some bullying. Whichever way a hen looks at it, the feather-headed newcomer is a direct challenge to the dominant birds.
Birds with fancy head feathers are additionally vulnerable because the plumage flops in front of their eyes, impairing their vision, and so they may not spot an oncoming attack. This can result in pecks and injuries.
Other causes of chicken bullying
Other unusual feathering will occasionally inspire bullying amongst chickens, such as the feathered ‘trousers’ of the Faverolles. This is not generally a problem, though, and this breed should get along well with your other hens.
Sometimes, new chickens with no unusual feathers or peculiar combs may be picked on if they are a different breed from all the other hens in the flock. The bullying appears to take place simply because the new chicken looks different to the others. This is an unusual issue, though, and clearly, the problem disappears if your existing hens are a mixed breed flock.
Do chickens bond with each other?
In general, mixing breeds actually assists with the pecking order and the general bonding, as different varieties have different temperaments. There is more likely to be squabbling in a run that has chickens of a single breed – they may all be assertive and dominant, or they may all be shrinking violets, depending on the breed, but they still need to establish a pecking order.
The body size of the hen does not affect how it is treated. A dainty bantam can rub along fine with a hulking Sussex, and a cockerel will be respectful of all his hens, regardless of their breed, and in the vast majority of cases the birds will all get on well together.
There are other practical considerations when keeping a mixed flock. Some chickens thrive in cold weather, while others are not as robust. Age may be an issue too, if you want to minimize the number of changes in your chicken flock. This isn’t to say chickens of different ages can’t get along but older chickens are more likely to bully other flock members. If possible, wait until your younger birds are close in size before moving them in.
What chicken breeds get along best?
Some breeds are naturally friendly, and these varieties are far less likely to start pecking and bullying each other. Super-chilled backyard chickens include Australorps, Cochins, Easter Eggers, Rhode Island Reds, Silkies, Sussex and Wyandottes.
Omlet and your flock
Whether you’ve got a flock of ten or two, Omlet has the products to support the needs of your chickens. Keep your hens mentally and physically stimulated to help them live in harmony with our range of chicken toys and accessories to add to your chicken coop and chicken run.
Only very tame pet hens enjoy being picked up. Most chickens find the whole procedure stressful, so you should only catch or handle them if you have to.
There are a few reasons why you might need to know how to catch a chicken. Your hens might be in danger, might require a clean-up after coming into contact with something oily or sticky, or you might need to carry out a chicken health check.
There are various ways to catch a chicken. If the hen is in danger as a result of escaping onto a road or into a garden with a dog in it, you can usually manage things by ‘herding’ the chicken rather than trying to lift it. If a dog is the problem, controlling or confining the dog is the first thing to sort out. If the hen has escaped and you need to catch her, guiding her back to safety by standing with your arms stretched out to the sides and encouraging her to return to the chicken coop is the best option. In these situations, the chicken will desperately want to find her fellow hens, so ‘steer’ her towards the hole in the fence or the open gate, or whichever escape route she took.
If the hen has flapped over a wall, however, you may have to resort to old fashioned hunting techniques for catching chickens.
How Do You Catch a Stray Chicken?
If your hens are very tame, you can simply offer some treats, bend down and pick them up. If only it were that easy with every chicken! Some are about as easy to catch as a fast-moving bar of wet soap – they can sprint at speeds of around 9 miles (14.5 km) per hour – and you will usually have to corner them first if you want to catch them.
If a hen has escaped or you spot her running away, or simply hidden somewhere in a large garden or meadow where you can find to trace of her, the best approach is to be patient and rely on the chicken’s homing instinct. As dusk begins to fall, the hen will instinctively head back to the coop. This is one of the handy things about keeping poultry!
The Best Way to Catch a Chicken
Do chickens like being picked up? In general, the answer is no. But if you’re trying to catch a chicken for whatever reason there are various ways of doing so. Not all of them can be recommended for the non-expert chicken keeper.
Using a net to catch chickens. Nets can be dangerous tools, as a chicken’s claws can snag in the netting, causing injury. If you opt for this method, the chickens should be netted as quickly as possible to minimise stress – although forever afterwards the sight of that net will send the poor hen into a panic! You should always use as large a net as possible for catching your chickens. A blanket may offer a safer way to catch them.
Using crate traps for catching chickens. Putting irresistible treats into a crate, and then slyly closing the door with a pole or long stick is an effective method. The main drawback is that all the other chickens will be tempted to take a look inside too!
Boxes for catching chickens. A large box can be placed over a cornered bird in the coop or run, and the flaps can be tucked in to secure the chicken. This technique can be useful if you need to capture chickens in daylight (although it works at night, too) and if they tend to be aggressive.
Torchlight makes chickens easier to catch. This is the simplest and most effective method when you need to trap a roosting chicken. When chickens are with the rest of the flock in the coop or run on their roosting bars or perches or in their nesting boxes at night, they instinctively stay put. If you open the top of the coop and shine a torch in (head-mounted ones are perfect), you’ll be able to pinpoint the hen you need to examine, and grab her up with minimal fuss.
Picking Up the Chicken
When picking up the hen, try to be firm but not rough. Getting a good grip and preventing the wings from flapping is the key. The correct method is to hold the chicken by placing your hand over its back, confining the wings, and then bring it close to your body. If the bird is very nervous, you may have to cover her with a towel to calm her down.
A tame hen is the easiest type of chicken to capture. Simply lure the hen in with a few treats, and grab her, stroking her back to reassure her. Once the cleaning or the examination is over, put the chicken on the ground and step back. She will do the rest, scuttling back to the safety of the flock.
So, there are several ways to catch a chicken, but you should only put them into operation when you definitely need to catch one. Try to avoid the poultry hook or net if you can, and use the method that suits both the chicken and the circumstances.
Moving house is stressful for everyone involved – and that includes pets and chickens. As far as your hens are concerned, the secret to a successful relocation is to have everything ready at the other end. In the same way as you might unpack a kettle and two mugs before opening any of the big boxes, the chicken shed and run should be ready in the garden before the first kettle boils!
Hens are prone to stress, and at the very least you can expect the egg count to plummet for a few days following a move. Weak or very nervous chickens are in particular danger, as panic can make them flap blindly and break legs, or even kill themselves. Minimising stress is therefore the key to a successful move.
The most stress-free way to get your hens ready for the move is to collect and crate/box them from the coop, rather than later in the day when they are out and about and need chasing and cornering. That is not a good way to minimise stress!
Transporting Chickens
Your hen-carriers need to be covered, well-ventilated boxes or pet crates. They should have enough space for the birds to turn around in (to prevent them from panicking at the confined space), while being dark enough to make their instincts kick in and help them snuggle down for the duration of the trip. On longer journeys, however, you will need to have enough light in the boxes to enable the hens to feed, and pet crates will make this easier.
You’ll need one box per chicken, generally, so make sure you have enough boxes for the big day. Hens with similar, placid temperaments can be transported in a single box. Each box or crate should be lined with straw to soak up the droppings, and the boxes should be stacked securely, not more than three boxes high.
It’s important that the birds don’t get too hot on the journey, so ventilation is an issue. If you only have two or three hens, they could travel on the back seat of a well-ventilated car, secured with quilts or blankets – or even seatbelts – to prevent the boxes from sliding around.
The journey itself should be taken using as many straight, non-bumpy roads as possible, combined with the need to make the trip as brief as you can. If your new home is a short stretch of motorway and a couple of A-roads away, that’s all very straightforward. Rural locations with lots of windy-road options will need more planning. If all the roads are B-roads with lots of bends, the quickest route is the best option.
In the two weeks before the move, make sure your hens’ diet is rich in all the required vitamins and minerals. Some owners recommend adding probiotics or extra vitamins to the feed, and this is something you should discuss with your vet.
For short journeys, you will not have to worry about chicken feed. On longer trips, though, food will need to be provided. Make sure you take a long break at least every three hours, to allow the confined birds to settle down and feed. If you are transporting the hens in crates, you can attach a water dispenser to the side.
A Portable Chicken Coop?
Old fashioned chicken coops can be tricky to transport, and many hen keepers prefer to erect a new run and chicken shed at their new property. This sometimes involves housing the birds in temporary accommodation while the new coop and run are being sorted out.
There are ways of avoiding the inconvenience, though. A portable coop and run can be packed away and then installed in the new garden in a few minutes, and they have the advantage of familiarity. Hens introduced into a coop that they already know inside out will reduce the stress of the move enormously.
Coops and runs such as the Eglu are ideal in this respect. Placing the coop in your new garden as soon as you arrive will enable the chickens to feel at home before you’ve even managed to open any of your removal boxes. Human will inevitably feel the stress of the moving-in process, but the hens don’t have to!
The process isn’t quite over when your hens are safely cooped up in the new garden. Stress can cause any underlying diseases to bloom, so you need to carry out daily health checks on your birds as the flock settles down in its new surroundings. This is yet another reason to consider a pack-and-go portable coop and run.
As with all pets, chickens rely on their owners for their safety and wellbeing. But as humans, vacations, spontaneous trips, and other time away from home are inevitable. So how will your chickens manage while you’re away?
Chickens are fairly self-sufficient, and do well when left alone. They don’t have separation anxiety from their owners like some pets experience, and can entertain themselves as long as they have their flock for company. Chickens will also regulate their feed intake and not overeat if free-choice food is left out for them. Still, they are prey animals, and certain considerations need to be taken into account before you take an extended leave of absence – particularly if no one will be staying with them while you’re away.
How long can I leave my chickens alone for?
Every chicken keeper does things a little differently from another, so the amount of time you can spend away from your flock is largely dependent on how you have them setup. Do they free-range, or are they always in a coop and run? Do you have an automatic door to tuck them in at night? Do you leave feed out, or feed them a portion daily?
When you prepare your chickens for your absence, you’ll need to make sure they have access to plenty of food and water. You’ll also need to make sure that they stick to their regular schedule as closely as possible. If they’re accustomed to free-ranging during the day and being closed in at night, you’ll need to have a safe, contained space large enough to simulate free-ranging.
An Eglu Cube chicken coop connected to a walk in chicken run is a great option for chickens that are accustomed to free-ranging, or for flocks that crave space during their time out of the coop. The run can be extended to however large you’d like to make it, so space is never an issue. And with the anti-dig skirting, predators will be deterred from coop-crashing while you’re away!
Give the setup and routine that you plan to have while you’re away a trial run before you leave to make sure everything goes smoothly. If any changes need to be made before you leave, you’ll want to give your flock ample time to adjust. Chickens will adapt quickly, so if your trial run was a success, your chickens should be just fine if you’re gone over the weekend.
Should I get a chicken sitter?
Leaving chickens alone for a day or two is commonplace for most flock-raisers, but if you are gone longer than that, it’s a good idea to have someone come and check on your chickens while you’re away. Depending on the time of the year, chickens can go through their feed and water quickly, and one misplaced step or a visit from some neighbourly mice can empty a food or water container in a hurry!
Consider asking a neighbour or a family friend that enjoys chickens to stop by and check in with your hens. A quick glance is often all it takes to ensure your flock is thriving while you’re away. You can always offer for them to take whatever eggs your hens have laid while you’re away as repayment and token of your (and your hens’) thanks!
If you have an automatic chicken coop door, be sure to let your chicken sitter know what time it opens and closes, or ask if they have a preferred time to go and check on your flock. Make sure to reprogram your automatic chicken coop door (if open or close times need to be adjusted) well in advance to get your hens accustomed to a different bedtime if necessary!
What do my chickens need while I’m away?
Food and water
Make sure to fill all of your chickens’ feeders and waterers before you leave. If possible, anchor any free-standing feeders or waterers to the sides of the run or coop to prevent them from being knocked over. Keep waterers sheltered from blowing debris to prevent them from getting clogged.
Prep for different weather
Consider the time of year you are leaving and plan accordingly. Always prepare for precipitation – even if there isn’t any in the weather forecast! Make sure your chicken run cover is on to provide shade and protection from rain.
Entertainment
If your flock is used to daily visits and treats from you, they will likely miss it while you’re away! To head off any treat-pining or fear of missing out on playdates, offer some fun alternatives such as a Chicken Swing or a variety of chicken toys to keep them occupied. To really stay in their good graces, set out some treats in a chicken peck toy or Caddi Treat Holder. Your flock might not even notice you’re gone!
Good to go
With proper preparation and planning, travelling can still be part of your lifestyle when you have chickens. The easiest way to maintain a flexible schedule with chickens is to create a setup that allows for flexibility from the beginning.
It’s always easiest to start off with the ideal setup for your flock so that your future travel plans don’t interfere with their routine. Large chicken coops with walk in runs, automatic chicken coop doors, and weather protection are all components of raising happy and safe chickens – whether you’re home or not!
Garden chickens thrive when they have a balanced diet, space to forage, and the right mix of nutrients. For healthy hens and reliable egg production, you need to provide the correct amount of feed, ensure they can hunt for wild treats like worms and beetles, and supply essential nutrients such as protein for eggs and calcium for strong shells. Understanding exactly how much to feed your chickens each day is key to providing good garden chicken care.
How much feed per chicken per day?
On average, a standard-sized chicken such as a Rhode Island Red, Oxford Brown, or Orpington needs about 120 grams of feed per day, which adds up to around 840 grams per week. Bantam breeds, being smaller, require less, while larger breeds may need a bit more. The most important thing is to ensure feed is available throughout the day so your chickens can eat little and often.
Feed Amounts by Chicken Size
Feed should be readily available all day as chickens naturally eat small amounts frequently, filling their crop as needed. If you restrict access, you may see a drop in egg production or changes in behaviour.
What Nutrients Do Laying Hens Need for Healthy Eggs?
Protein: Vital for egg production and feather health. Laying hens need at least 16% protein in their feed.
Calcium: Essential for strong eggshells. Oyster shell or a layer feed with added calcium is recommended.
Carbohydrates, vitamins, and minerals: Support energy, growth, and overall health.
Allowing chickens to forage supplements their diet with insects, seeds, and green plants, providing natural sources of nutrients and enrichment. However, foraging alone rarely provides all the nutrients your flock needs, especially during times when natural food sources are scarce. Commercial layer feed is carefully formulated to deliver a balanced diet, ensuring your chickens get the right levels of protein, calcium, and other essential nutrients every day. By prioritising a high-quality feed and offering foraging opportunities, you help support robust health and steady egg production in your flock.
Feeding chickens in winter
During winter, hens need more energy to stay warm and active. Foraging becomes difficult as insects and plants are scarce, so your chickens will rely more on pellets and grains. It’s recommended to increase their feed by up to 50% in cold weather, which means up to 180 grams per chicken per day.
Chickens eat more when moulting, as they need extra protein to grow new feathers, so be sure to refill your feeder more frequently during this period.
Chicken Water in Winter
Providing fresh, unfrozen water is just as important as increasing feed during winter, as hydration helps chickens digest their food and maintain body temperature. An insulated chicken waterer keeps water fluid and at your chickens’ optimal drinking temperature for longer when it’s cold outside.
Winter Feeding Tips
Increase daily feed by up to 50% (180g per chicken)
To ensure your chickens are eating enough, use a chicken feeder with a window or clear panel so you can see feed levels at a glance. If you’re concerned about a particular hen, watch for signs such as lethargy, weight loss, dull feathers, or a drop in egg production.
Sometimes, bullying can prevent a chicken from accessing food, if you notice one hen being pushed away, consider adding another feeder to reduce competition. The Omlet No Waste Feeder has five separate ports, allowing multiple hens to eat at once which minimises bullying.
It’s also helpful to observe your flock during feeding times to ensure every chicken gets a fair chance at the feeder. If you see any chickens lingering at the edge of the group or hesitating to approach the feeder, this could be a sign of social stress or illness. Regularly checking your chickens’ body and monitoring their behaviour will help you catch any issues early and keep your flock healthy.
Signs a Chicken Isn’t Eating Enough
Lethargy or lack of energy
Noticeable weight loss
Dull or ruffled feathers
Fewer or smaller eggs
If you spot these signs, monitor the hen closely for a few days and ensure she has easy access to food.
Do chickens know when to stop eating?
Chickens are naturally good at regulating their intake. They rarely overeat and will stop once their crop is full. Free-choice feeders are safe to use, as hens prefer to eat little and often throughout the day.
However, chickens will often choose treats over their main feed if given the chance. It’s important to make sure their primary feed is always available and treats are given in moderation. Peck toys or treat caddis can help regulate treat intake and provide enrichment.
If a chicken stops eating entirely, check for signs of illness and consult a vet if needed.
Key Takeaways
Feed each standard chicken about 120 grams per day
Increase feed by up to 50% in winter or during moulting
Use a feeder with a window to monitor feed levels and watch for signs of undereating
Chickens self-regulate their intake and rarely overeat
Provide treats in moderation and use enrichment tools to keep chickens active
At Omlet, we offer feeders designed to make garden chicken keeping simple and efficient. Our feeders minimise waste, so you know your chickens are eating every pellet. With smart features like app-controlled feed level alerts and clear panels for easy monitoring, you can keep your flock healthy and happy with less effort. We also design chicken treat dispensers to help you provide enrichment, supporting your chickens’ wellbeing year-round.
Yes, chickens are great pets for families. They’re low-maintenance, social, and endlessly entertaining, and they come with the bonus of fresh eggs every morning. Compared to dogs or cats, the daily care commitment is more manageable, and children of almost any age can get meaningfully involved.
More and more families are discovering this for themselves. Whether you have a large or a compact garden, a small flock of hens fits into family life more easily than most people expect. But before you bring home your first chickens, it’s worth understanding what’s involved, from choosing the right breeds and setting up a safe coop, to knowing what your kids can realistically help with and how to keep everything hygienic.
This blog post covers everything parents need to know before getting started.
Why Chickens Are Great Pets for Families
Chickens tend to surprise new owners. People expect them to be purely functional garden animals, and then find themselves charmed by a hen that trots over when she hears your voice, or a flock that settles into a reliable daily rhythm your whole family can participate in.
Here’s what makes them such a good fit for family life:
No walks, no grooming. Unlike dogs, chickens don’t need to be walked or brushed. Their daily care takes around 10 to 15 minutes in the morning and evening, which is manageable even on busy school days.
They’re social and recognise familiar faces. Chickens form bonds with the people who care for them. Many hens will come when called and enjoy being gently handled, especially when raised with regular human contact from a young age.
Fresh eggs keep kids engaged. The daily egg collection is one of the most reliable ways to keep children invested in the flock. It’s a tangible, exciting reward that never really gets old.
They fit in most gardens. A small flock of three or four hens doesn’t require a large amount of space. As long as the coop and run are appropriately sized, chickens can thrive in suburban and even urban gardens.
Simple chores that kids can genuinely help with. Filling feeders, refreshing water, collecting eggs, and checking on the flock are all tasks children can take ownership of, which brings us to the benefits for them specifically.
The Benefits of Keeping Chickens for Children
Chickens offer something that most family pets don’t: a built-in daily routine with real consequences. If the hens aren’t fed and watered, they go without. That reality, handled gently and with parental guidance, teaches children a level of responsibility that’s hard to replicate elsewhere.
The benefits go well beyond responsibility, though:
Daily responsibility. Feeding, watering, and checking on the flock every day, rain or shine, builds consistency and follow-through in children in a way that feels natural and rewarding, rather than forced.
Understanding where food comes from. Collecting eggs from a hen your child has named and cared for is one of the most direct, hands-on connections to food production available to a family outside of farming.
Routine and consistency. Chickens need the same care every day. That predictability is genuinely good for children, providing structure that carries over into other areas of life.
Empathy and patience. Learning to read an animal’s behaviour, to approach calmly, to notice when something seems off, develops emotional intelligence that benefits children long after they’ve grown up.
More time outdoors, less time on screens. A flock in the garden gives children a reason to go outside every day, not just when the sun is shining.
How Many Chickens Should a Family Get?
For a family new to chicken keeping, three to four hens is the ideal starting point. That’s enough to produce a good supply of eggs without the care feeling overwhelming, and without needing a vast amount of outdoor space.
Chickens are flock animals and get lonely on their own, so keeping at least two is always advised. Beyond that, the right number comes down to your family’s capacity and your available space.
A few things to consider:
More hens means more eggs, but also more feed, more cleaning, and more daily tasks. Consider what your family can realistically manage.
Think about space before you commit to a number. Each hen needs adequate room in both the coop and the run to prevent stress.
Start with a manageable flock, but plan ahead. Most chicken keepers find their flock grows over time, a phenomenon known as chicken math, so it’s worth choosing a coop you can grow into rather than one you’ll quickly outgrow.
For families just starting out, the Eglu Go and Eglu Go Up are brilliant starter coops for up to four hens. If you’d like to build a larger flock over time, the Eglu Cube (for 6 large hens) and Eglu Pro (for 10 large hens) give you the space to start with a few, with the knowledge that you can add a few more later.
Do You Need a Rooster?
No. Hens lay eggs without a rooster in the flock. You only need one if you want fertilised eggs for hatching.
For most families, a rooster is more trouble than it’s worth. They can be noisy, territorial, and occasionally aggressive, which isn’t a great combination when you have young children in the mix. Sticking to an all-hen flock keeps things calmer, quieter, and considerably more neighbour-friendly.
Choosing the Right Coop
The coop is the foundation of a happy, healthy flock, and for families, the right setup makes daily care feel easy rather than burdensome. There are a few things to prioritise:
Security
A predator-proof coop is non-negotiable, particularly in areas with known predators like foxes. Omlet’s Eglu coops are built with strong heavy-duty steel mesh and anti-tunnel skirts that will keep your flock safe from unwanted visitors.
Easy access for children
Children are much more likely to stay engaged if they can actually reach the eggs. The Eglu Cube and Eglu Pro chicken coops from Omlet feature a side Egg-port that makes egg collecting simple and accessible, even for younger kids.
An automatic door
When choosing a coop, make sure it’s compatible with a smart automatic coop door. In summer especially, hens need letting out early, and that can mean a 5am start if you’re doing it manually. With an autodoor set to open on a schedule, you don’t have to go out at sunrise or rework the kids’ morning routine around the flock. It closes automatically at night too, so locking up is one less thing to think about.
Enough space
Overcrowded coops lead to stressed, unhappy chickens. Omlet’s runs are modular, so you can extend them as your flock grows. The walk-in chicken run is particularly well suited to families. It’s large enough for adults and children to step inside and spend time with the hens, which makes bonding with the flock a genuinely enjoyable part of the day.
Easy cleaning
A coop that’s difficult to clean won’t get cleaned as often as it should. Omlet’s Eglu coops have smooth pull-out roosting racks and droppings trays that can be wiped, scrubbed, and hosed off quickly, and children of most ages can get involved.
What Are the Friendliest Chicken Breeds for Families?
Breed makes a real difference when you have children involved. Some chickens are naturally calm and enjoy human contact; others are flighty and easily spooked. For families, especially those with younger children, starting with a docile breed sets everyone up for a much better experience.
Best breeds for families
Silkies. Fluffy, calm, and most love being handled. Their gentle nature makes them ideal for young children who want to get up close with the flock.
Buff Orpingtons. Large, gentle, and rarely peck. They’re one of the best first chickens you can get, and their laid-back temperament holds up well around busy, noisy households.
Plymouth Rocks. Curious and easy to tame, they’re a solid all-rounder for families who want a hen that’s friendly without being overly demanding.
Easter Eggers. A gentle temperament combined with the novelty of colourful eggs makes these a firm favourite with kids of all ages.
Bantams. These are smaller versions of regular chicken breeds, (e.g. Pekin Bantam) which makes them far less intimidating for toddlers and younger children who might be nervous around full-sized hens.
Breeds to avoid with small kids
Leghorns and Rhode Island Reds can be feisty and flighty, which can easily overwhelm young children. They’re not bad chickens, but they’re not the most forgiving choice for a first flock with kids in the mix.
Are Chickens Safe Around Kids? Hygiene and Health
Chickens are safe around children when a few simple hygiene habits are in place. The precautions are straightforward, and most children adapt to them quickly once they become part of the daily routine.
Key hygiene rules for families:
Always wash hands thoroughly with soap and water after handling chickens or collecting eggs.
Supervise toddlers and children under five closely when out with the chickens. They’re more likely to touch their faces without thinking.
Keep the coop clean. A well-maintained setup dramatically reduces the build-up of bacteria over time, and an easy clean coop like an Omlet Eglu is key.
Don’t allow children to kiss chickens or bring them indoors.
None of these rules are difficult to follow and will easily become a habit for children.
Chickens vs Other Family Pets: How Do They Compare?
If you’re weighing chickens against other pets, here’s how they stack up across the factors that matter most to families.
Cost. Chickens are significantly cheaper to keep than dogs. There are no grooming costs and no vet bills for routine care, which makes them a far more affordable long-term commitment for most families.
Time. No daily walks needed. Around 10 to 15 minutes of care in the morning and evening is enough to keep a small flock happy and healthy.
Space. A small garden is sufficient for a small flock, making chickens a realistic option for suburban families who couldn’t accommodate a larger pet.
Noise. Hens are considerably quieter than dogs. They cluck and chatter, but they won’t disturb the neighbours the way a barking dog might.
Lifespan. Chickens can live five to ten years as pets, which is a meaningful commitment, but shorter than a dog or cat. It’s worth having an open conversation with your children about this before you get started.
Allergens. For families where children are allergic to cats or dogs, chickens are a brilliant alternative. They’re a low-allergen option that still gives children all the benefits of caring for a pet.
Eggs. A bonus no other pet can offer.
What Can Kids Do? An Age-by-Age Guide
One of the best things about keeping chickens as a family is that there’s a role for every age. As children grow, so does their capacity to take on more responsibility, and the flock grows with them.
Ages 3-5
Supervised egg collecting, watching feeding, and gentle supervised petting. At this age it’s about building familiarity and excitement around the flock, with a grown-up close by.
Ages 6-9
Filling feeders and drinkers independently, naming hens, and starting to form real bonds with individual birds. This is where daily ownership starts to take shape.
Ages 10-12
Cleaning the coop with guidance, carrying out basic health checks, and keeping a chicken diary to track egg counts and flock behaviour. A brilliant age to take on genuine responsibility.
Teens
Full flock management: monitoring health, managing feed, and confidently introducing new hens to the flock. By this point, most teenagers can run the whole operation with minimal input from parents.
Starting young keeps children connected to the flock from the beginning, and gradually increasing responsibility as they get older builds real confidence. By the time a child reaches their teens, they’re capable of managing the flock almost entirely on their own.
The Mental Health and Educational Benefits
The benefits of keeping chickens extend well beyond the practical. Research consistently shows that regular interaction with animals reduces anxiety and stress in children.
A few of the less obvious benefits worth knowing about:
Real-world biology. Children learn about life cycles, egg development, and animal behaviour in a way that the classroom can’t replicate. It’s hands-on, observable, and genuinely fascinating.
Sustainability and food literacy. Understanding where food comes from, and having a direct role in producing it, builds an awareness of sustainability that sticks with children into adulthood.
Confidence building. For children who are shy or find social situations difficult, the quiet, non-judgmental company of a flock can be genuinely therapeutic. There’s no pressure, no performance, just a calm daily connection.
Consistent routine. The predictability of chicken keeping, same tasks, same times, every day, provides a structure that benefits children with anxiety or those who thrive on routine.
The evidence backs this up. Studies on animal-assisted activities have found meaningful reductions in cortisol levels and anxiety symptoms in children who spend regular time with animals. Chickens may not be the first animal that comes to mind, but the daily, low-pressure nature of the interaction makes them particularly effective.
Key Takeaways
Chickens are low-maintenance, affordable, and more rewarding than most people expect, with fresh eggs as a daily bonus.
The friendliest breeds for families are Silkies, Buff Orpingtons, Plymouth Rocks and Easter Eggers.
Hygiene is simple to manage: handwashing after handling and a clean coop keeps the risk low.
You don’t need a rooster. Hens lay eggs without one.
Children of all ages can get involved, from supervised egg collecting as a toddler to full flock responsibility in their teens.
With the right setup, chickens can be one of the most rewarding pets a family can keep.
Ready to Get Started?
Omlet’s range of coops is designed with families in mind. Eglu coops are predator-proof and built to last, with daily cleaning made quick and easy so the whole family can get involved without it feeling like a chore. The walk-in run gives your flock plenty of space to roam, with the added bonus that the whole family can step inside and spend time with the hens up close. And the Autodoor takes the pressure off busy mornings and evenings, opening and closing on a schedule so you never have to worry about forgetting.
Everything at Omlet is designed to make chicken keeping enjoyable, not a chore. If you’re ready to take the next step, explore our full range of chicken keeping supplies and find the setup that’s right for your family.
Most people would agree that the yolk is the best part of the egg. A double-yolker in the breakfast pan is therefore a very welcome sight!
Some hens lay double-yolkers every time, a genetic quirk that simply means two yolks are released into the system instead of one. However, hens that manage this impressive feat are rare, and no single breed has been developed to pull off the double-yolk trick every time.
The one-egg-with-two-yolks breakfast can still be yours every day, though, if you’re willing to pay extra for it. You may have spotted double-yolk ‘super eggs’ on the shelves of certain supermarkets – sold at a premium, of course – but these are nearly all from young birds, rather than the mythical Double Yolker breed. It’s worth pointing this out, as a Google search will lead to some interesting information about such a breed. But it doesn’t exist – yet!
Most double-yolk eggs encountered by chicken keepers come from young hens. Point-of-lay birds tend to produce a very small egg or two, and then a couple of double-yolkers, before their bodies settle down into a regular four or five eggs-per-week pattern. A double-yolk egg after this early laying stage is very rare in most birds, although some hens begin to produce double-yolkers again towards the end of their egg-laying lives. Circumstantial evidence suggests that the Rhode Island Red, Oxford Brown, Sussex, and Leghorn breeds have a higher chance of producing double-yolkers.
How Are Double Yolks Formed?
Hens’ bodies release a yolk approximately two hours after the previous egg has been laid. Once in the hen’s oviduct – the part of the bird’s body in which the eggs are formed – the yolk is surrounded by the white albumen part of the egg and then covered in hard calcium. If a hen has released two yolks side-by-side, the egg-forming process treats them in the same way as a single yolk, resulting in two yolks ‘trapped’ inside a single egg shell.
If double-yolked eggs are fertilised, the result is two chicken embryos in one shell. Most of these ‘twin’ eggs fail to develop properly, though, with only one chick growing beyond the early development stage, or with neither of them developing. This makes it rare for two chicks to emerge from one egg. Chicken breeders are advised to put aside the double-yolkers to prevent them developing, and in commercial operations most double-yolkers are sold to food companies that use eggs in their products.
How Can You Tell If An Egg Has Two Yolks?
You don’t need to crack the shell to find out what’s inside – you can spot a double-yolker by ‘candling’ the egg. The word candling comes from the ancient practice of holding an egg in front of a candle flame, but a small torch does the job just as well (although they are still ‘candled’ rather than ‘torched’!) If there are two yolks inside, they will be visible as two dark blobs against the bright light as it shines through the shell.
So, although double-yolkers are estimated to occur in just one per thousand eggs, the sheer abundance of point-of-lay hens means that they are a common sight on the plates of chicken keepers around the world.
Triple yolkers, however, are very unlikely to grace the breakfast table. This super-rarity is found in just one egg per 25 million!
The very short answer to that question is probably no. If you give your chickens a good quality feed and some corn, and let them peck around the garden for insects and small stones they use to grind down their food they should technically be getting everything they need.
Any supplement should be given to your chickens as a complement to a healthy and balanced diet, and not instead of giving them good feed or sufficient space to live out natural chicken behaviours. However, just like you might boost your own system with some extra vitamins and minerals, there are some things that you can give your hens that will help them stay healthier and give them more energy.
Particularly useful at more challenging times, like around a moult or during a particularly tough cold snap, we’ve listed all the supplements you might want to have in your cupboard:
Grit
Chickens don’t have teeth, but use small rocks and stones to grind their food down. Most free range chickens gather grit naturally while exploring the garden, but if you for some reason have to contain your chickens to a smaller area than normal, or if their run is covered in snow, you might need to add grit to their diet.
Make sure to choose something that is chicken specific and will have the right composition and size of components.
Vinegar
Vinegar, normally Apple Cider Vinegar, is a great booster all year around. It aids digestion, keeps internal parasites at bay, and is mildly antiseptic. In the winter it’s also fantastic to use preventatively to keep respiratory infections away from your flock.
Choose an organic or unpasteurised vinegar that contains a substance called ‘the mother’. It’s a gel-like substance that grows naturally on the vinegar, and it’s the mother that contains the most powerful enzymes and minerals that make the vinegar so beneficial.
Vinegar can be added to the chickens’ drinking water, approximately 10ml per liter of water.
Garlic
As well as keeping vampires away, garlic has been used for its beneficial properties for centuries, and it’s a great addition to your chickens’ diet.
You can crush up a fresh clove or use garlic powder to add to the feed. It’s great for circulation, and can help with respiratory infections. It’s also said to help ensure a good appetite, so it’s ideal to give it to newly rescued hens that need a nutrient boost.
Herbs
Plenty of herbs and spices are said to have medicinal properties that will help your hens keep their immune system in top condition. Verm-X is a 100% natural supplement that helps maintain intestinal hygiene and keeps the hen’s gut and digestive system in great condition, which can help keep parasites and infections away.
Oregano, cinnamon, parsley, turmeric and ginger are other chicken favourites that will increase vitamin levels and aid the immune system, and that grinded down can be mixed into your chickens feed.
Calcium
Chickens use lots of calcium to build egg shells, so laying chickens can sometimes need a little more than they get from their pellets.
Equimins Egg Shell Improver is a great example of a supplement that contains high levels of calcium and phosphorus and will strengthen the quality of your chickens’ eggs. Ideal for ex battery hens or hens going through a moult.
Poultry Spice
This is a long term favourite with chicken keepers, a mineral supplement that will be beneficial to your chickens’ general health. It’s perfect for moulting, or to help maintain good appetite in winter.
1. You have created a social media page for your Hens
Let’s face it, when you invest in a chicken coop and purchase your first flock you have to share it with friends and family. Whether it is documenting first eggs laid in the coop to your gourmet recipes with your farm-fresh eggs you are posting it on Instagram, Facebook, or Twitter.
2. You find eggs throughout the house
As you start becoming more comfortable with your chickens maybe you decide to let them into your home. They never bother anybody and get along great with your other pets but occasionally you find a fresh egg in your fruit bowl or on top of your favourite armchair. Hey, at least you know they are comfortable!
3. A “staycation” is your idea of a holiday
When you invest in your first brood you feel like you are a second parent to theseanimals. You wash them, feed them, and make sure they are comfortable. Add that in with taking care of your own kids and the idea of going on holiday is the last thing on your mind. You would much rather set up a zoom background of the beach or the tropics, order in a favourite meal, and put your feet up. Ahhh!
4. You find yourself chatting with your chickens
Sometimes we just need a good therapy session with an attentive listener, and who better than your chickens. They will never talk back to you or judge you for your decisions. They may give the occasional nudge or peck for a pet but hey, it is cheaper than therapy.
5. You have pet names for your hens
After the first couple weeks of tending to your chickens you start noticing some have different personalities. Some are on the shy side, some are very particular about their feeding time, and some just want all of the cuddles in the world. What a perfect time to give them a name! Whether it is Rudy, Cleo, or Fluffy we don’t judge here because they are your pets.
6. The home is filled with fashionable fowl décor
Whether it is chicken cocktail napkins or a hen-tastic serving platter you or your friends have made sure that you have all of the latest in chicken-related home furnishings.
7. You have a carrier bag to transport your chickens
Maybe you need to take them to the vet like any of your other pets. Who says that they shouldn’t be comfortable? That is why you have the top of the line carrier to transport your chickens whenever they are unwell.
8. Dressing up your brood for special occasions
When you have spring chickens or fall fowls they must be dressed for the season. When Halloween comes around you wouldn’t put it past yourself to dress up your chickens in a matching outfit with your other pets.
9. Instead of walking the dog you find yourself walking the flock
Yes, there are harnesses for chickens because you have already researched it on Amazon. Maybe you have limited land and your chickens need to stretch their legs each day, so you take them to the local park to graze and get some fresh air. Totally normal, right?!
10. You find yourself building a chicken picnic table for feeding time
We have all seen the trend of building mini picnic tables for our squirrel friends in our backyard. If you haven’t just Google it and you will be entertained by these structures. Well, who says your chickens should have any less than the squirrels. You paint your own table to pour your chicken feed into each day so your chickens can chow down in style.
At the end of the day, we understand that when you decide to venture out into the land of chicken coops it can be a daunting process. Everyone has unique experiences and should be able to tend to their hens/ roosters in their own way. Your flock is part of your family so why skimp on their care and upkeep!
Like most other animals, chickens can suffer from parasitic worms. These are endoparasites that live inside your bird’s body, and are collectively called Helminths by vets.
Does my chicken have worms?
The three types of parasitic worms that your chickens are most likely to contract are:
Roundworms. There are a number of different roundworms, with the large roundworm being the most common. They live anywhere in the bird’s digestive system, and can sometimes be spotted in your chickens’ droppings.
Gapeworms. These nasty parasites attach themselves to the trachea of the chicken, hooking on without moving.
Tapeworms. These attach themselves to the lining of the intestine and can get really long and unpleasant. They are less common, but will more significantly affect the bird.
It’s not always straightforward to tell if your chicken has worms, but symptoms may include a paler comb, decreased egg production, diarrhoea and increased appetite without weight gain. A chicken who has been infected with gapeworm will stretch their neck and gasp for air. Sometimes you won’t spot an infection until it’s really serious and possibly untreatable.
To worm or not to worm
Many chicken keepers therefore choose to worm their chickens regularly to prevent them getting infected, usually once in spring and once in autumn. This is normally done using Flubenvet, a poultry specific wormer you can get at the vets that will kill both the worms and their eggs. Make sure you get a worming treatment that is suitable for chickens, and check if you should be discarding the chicken’s eggs while she is being treated. Always worm all chickens at the same time.
Other chicken keepers think it’s better to only treat chickens that have a confirmed infection. This is partly because some wormers are only effective on particular parasites, and will be pointless if your chickens have a different type of worm. Some also think it’s unnecessary to stress the system by giving the birds treatment for an issue they might not have. Additionally, it can be pricey to worm a whole flock twice a year.
If you don’t want to treat your chickens without a diagnosis, but suspect they might have worms, you can get their droppings tested for presence of eggs. Ask your vet if they will do it for you, or you can send the droppings off to a laboratory in pre-made kits.
Prevent infections
Whether you decide to treat only confirmed worm cases or worm preventatively, it’s always best to do everything you can to make sure your chickens don’t contract parasites. One of the best things to do is to regularly move their coop and run to a new patch. This will stop serious outbreaks, as it stops the life-cycle of the worms. Worm eggs are expelled in the droppings from infected birds, and survive on the ground for a surprisingly long time before they are picked up by foraging chickens. This is called a direct life-cycle, as the worm doesn’t need a host animal to get to your hens. Worms that have an indirect life-cycle on the other hand let their eggs first be ingested by for example earthworms, slugs or centipedes, where they lay dormant until the host is eaten by one of your chickens. The larvae hatch inside your hens, and the cycle repeats.
To prevent an unbreakable chain of worm infestations, it’s therefore important to regularly move your chickens. This is made easy by portable chicken coops like the Eglu Cube or the Eglu Go UP.
Another useful thing is to keep the grass mowed as the ultraviolet light from the sun can kill off potential worm eggs in your chickens’ droppings. Clean the run every week and scoop up droppings and wet bedding. If one of your chickens is infected it’ll be very difficult to get rid of all worm eggs from the ground, but every little helps!
Finally, many chicken keepers swear by the mineral supplement Verm-X. It’s a herbal formulation that works to create an environment in the gut that is able to eradicate and expel any intestinal challenges. This can be given as a supplement to your flock regularly to help their immune system stay on top.
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In addition, there are costs for the vet, which can hardly be calculated. The vaccination costs are still quite manageable, the vaccine itself is a maximum of 
In order to keep healthy and happy chickens it is necessary to have a safe outdoor area with plenty of space, where they can exercise, enjoy the sunshine and fresh air. Your chicks should be able to express normal behaviours, such as scratching, foraging and dust bathing. 
If your hens are very tame, you can simply offer some treats, bend down and pick them up. If only it were that easy with every chicken! Some are about as easy to catch as a fast-moving bar of wet soap – they can sprint at speeds of around 9 miles (14.5 km) per hour – and you will usually have to corner them first if you want to catch them.
Most people would agree that the yolk is the best part of the egg. A double-yolker in the breakfast pan is therefore a very welcome sight!
Prevent infections